Xmas

1st question answer is Best place online is http://www.4wheelparts.com (probably only place online) 2nd - no. just call them/ contact info is here http://www.4wheelparts.com

Nah, you should be fine. If you can, get one of the Uhaul car dollys that you can put the whole car onto it and make sure the trailer has surge brakes. Also, ALSO - keep your engine out of OD. Make sure the OD button is OFF at all times! Other then that, take it easy and drive safe! PS - owned lots of boats, so I know about towing and what mistakes I done

Man 100 bux'z for a running Pathy Cool! Any rust on the frame or used the rear passenger seat on the driver side? My engine is out right now, all I can say is this: I have oil and antifreeze leaks. The remedy is replace the real main seal, oil pan gasket (half moon style gasket and silicone sealant), waterpump t-belts all belts. Since I have the motor out, I am replacing all gaskets from the lower block and up! As for the manifold thing/ I did confirm that the bolts were busted on the passenger side, but then going over to the driver side the manifold was broken. Yep; broken in-half. After engine was pulled out, the motor mounts broke. So those will need to be repalced also. So what I am saying here is this: Since you really don't know the history of this truck and you seem to know what your talking about, I would recommend not worrying about a lift and get the engine over looked. For the money you put into it, I would say if you can pull motor out and do a whole everything like I am doing all parts will be less then 1000.00. Since you got popping, I bet you have ball joints that are bad. Not bad to replace all the ball joints in the suspension area, but keep in mind you will need an alignment afterwards. On my truck, all my issues are from previous owners not caring for it or getting it serviced! Yep, nothing was changed in the 12 years of ownership @ after 168K miles. To me, this shows a wonderful truck and worth the BUCKS to get it all fixed. Showing off w/ lift will not do you good if you find out some else is broken when it's stuck on the side of the road. What I am saying is for 100.00 you can make a wonderful investment if you just get everything done. So I'd worry about a lift later. If you like to just get some-what of a lift, then crank for front TB's and some Jeep Grand cherokee springs. You should get a 2" lift out of that. If you want to save money for gas. I say replace the air filter, install some new spark plugs / wires and clean the carbon out of the Throttle body / butterfly area. Mine looked sick inside the butterfly, but still the truck never missed, back fired or hesitated. But I can say it will run like new when its all back together. Cheers and welcome!

Mine is a 95 XE, It has'em. Also it does have power windows / locks and also the rear tire swing out.

I am going to replace all the spark plugs since the motor will be out. What spark plugs do you like for the v6 pathy's? I am thinking NGK's??

I had no problems. For the rear, what I did was this and I am not sure, but this could be maybe why: 1st : I got my jack and put it under my rear axel. I jaked it enough to where I get both tires off the ground and then enough to get my 'jack stands' under my hitch (to make my truck stable as I am under there cranking off the shocks). I also kept the pressue on my jack (on the axel) with the tires still off the ground. What I am thinking is that it allowed to make it to where I was able to remove the shock to 'get ER done' I took off the old shocks w/ no issues. -But really, I swear I did not have to remove panhard rod

I did not have to touch or remove the panhard rod, , but except the old shocks and then with the new ones.

Man you sold me that two years ago, people are still driving on it!!

I saw these one's. Not sure how good they are, but they are available for the pathy's 0"-1" lift, so good for stock and good price, I guess. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product...0008403/c-10614

Yea I have that, but that is a bad location. I have to bend my whole damn shoulder to get my cup. I don't put my seat back far, not a very tall guy. So I like to get a cup holder that is closer to the e-brake. What I might do is convert my ashtray into a cup-holder area.

Just found this out. I was trying to use my cell phone DC charger in the Pathy and notice that the cig lighter is not working. Now is there a fuse that maybe is blown that could be the reason why the cig lighter is not working? Suggestions?

If your pathy is stock, no one or even you will see the shocks or the red boots on the rancho's. If you are wanting them b/c of it's color, then don't make that a priority. You can always primer the shocks and paint them what ever color you like, then maybe call Rancho customer service and tell them you like to purchase 4 red boots. Main thing is budget and what you can spend. As I said earlier, I cannot even see my shocks. Now if its lifted, maybe some, but not really. Now if I was lifted and flex'in, now we will see some color on those shocks. lol

I'd get the ES3000 for sure. Its not a big price difference between es1000 vs es3000 and the parts/components in the es3000 are better upgrade and sure will make your pathy ride better and shocks will last longer reguardless.

I think I used both 17mm socket, wrench and breaker bar or pipe to easier brake the bolts loose on the shocks bolts . Also I did use PB on the bolts and jack and jack stands to hold rear body stable, which I had a hydraulic jack to lift the rear axel to get the tires off the ground. Very easy to do. My pathy had the OEM shocks on it at almost 170K miles. As for shocks and you want cheap and not really off road go w/ the ProComp entry level shocks. Only reason why I wnet with Rancho's is b/c I got them same day, but it would not been the case if they had the Procomps in stock, but thats only because the ProComps were cheaper in price. But I am happy w/ the Rancho Rs5000

Thats the one I have, but it does not tuck/tight very well wedged to the passenger side seat.

Yes sir, mine is a AT. Love to see a pic. I am looking to even be kind of creative and fab one up if its needed. But i prefer a simple solution, but also looks nice. Thanks

Ok, maybe this one? hehe / kidding

I seen older post about the pathy not having worth a hoot or good convienant location of cup holders. I that my last choice would be the one that hangs on the door, but I like something to be in the middle / console area though. I saw this one. Do you think this is a good one? I think its a little much though.. http://www.combocaddy.com/index.html What ideas did you do to make a good steedy reliable cup holder, but not making it look like red neck ?

I got my pads @ Advance Auto. The front are disc and the rear is drums. The brand I got was wear ever, it's there house brand, but what I did confirm is that the Bendix that I was going to buy was from the same manufacture as those Wear Ever were from, plus total price was $40.00 less. I did use the OEM shims and what I did was clean the shims really well and used a damp rag w/ some PB spray on the shims. Becareful not to overspray w/ the PB onto either the brake pads or disc. Now on the back, holly $hit, they were a pain in the A$$ to get the new ones on. I never messed w/ drums. But I did manage to get one side on and after that experience, I decided to have a brake shop get the other side done here shortly. I was told there is special tools to do drum brake jobs, but man, plyers, screw drivers was a pain in the rear. lol But right now the truck stops on a dime! No noise or squeeks, but I guess time will tell. I post later if I do have any issues, but I think I will not. Thanks all!!

My Rancho RS5000 Well I finally put them on last night. They were a breeze to put on and what really stunned me was that my pathy had 166K and it still had the OEM shock on it. lol. Anyways, its rides great and I have yet to off road it w/ them, but I can say is that I feel no more rocking side to side or back and forth. Stiff, but truck like suspension, just like I wanted! My rig is OEM w/ no suspension lift, so I cannot comment on it, but these ranchos have a long drive to put ona 3" lift w/ no problems for sure.

Mine ticking on 2 busted. Its annoying as heck also. Sounds like a valve tap. lol .

I asked that question also, but that is not the remedy to repair the manifold. Either way the manifold is not expense to replace for a new one. Seen them on carparts.com for like 35.00 each. I just hate the ticking and also I bet when the bolts broken, it does loose some of the HP from the motor. Can't wait to get mine fixed though...

On my sig below, those are the 3 things I am saving to get everything worked/fixed. The oil leak and water pump leak is a major , need to do very soon repair, but I am getting all three things done this next weekend / I hope I read that ld50 said it will not hard the exhaust manifold, but w/ driving it always like that, you can fail state emission (if you have it) and also you could harm the manifold and warp it or even crack it--- or at least this is what I been told.

Since 4wheel parts did not have the ProComps or the rancho5000's, I called my local Advance auto parts and they can get them for me this evening. So I went on ahead and ordered the RS5000 by Rancho. I actually got them little cheaper then what 4wheelparts sells them for. hehehe

Looks like the ES3000 are the winner. I plan to run over to my local 4wheel parts store tomorrow and get'em. Thanks all!!