gloer

The struts are coming off for disassembly Saturday. Going to get the spacer in there. If I can't figure out what's going on, I'll be posting with pics asking for advice.

Thanks, really, I truly appreciate you guys speaking up. Really easy to scroll on by and not care to take the time to help. THANK YOU!!

Damn, if both @RainGoat and @R50JR say it is so, it's definitely got to be done. I'm still not sure how they work, but you two are trustworthy sources so will not doubt that it has to be done. Searching for @zakzackzachary's post to see wtf is going to happen to me, not having much luck so far. If anyone can post a link that would be appreciated, in the meantime will continue to search.

96 SE auto transmission issue. When cold (driving for the first time in the day) it doesn't shift properly, almost stalls out if accelerate hard and then come to a stop shortly after, like it is stuck in a higher gear and won't shift down as expected when slowing down. Cold means not having been driven yet for the day. The issue is the same whether it is 5F or 60F, if it is the first time driving for the day. This issue has become progressively worse over the past couple of years. Mechanical issue or a fluid issue? Best way to start to diagnose and/or resolve?

I have a 96 SE. I used the KYB top hat. I didn't use the spacer, it wasn't possible to use it and get the strut nut on. I tried. My mechanic friend tried. I was determined to use it based on what I read on other posts and feedback to this one. I checked, double and triple checked, even took the strut off and disassembled/reassembled after running without the spacer for awhile to be sure. I had the struts replaced earlier at a reputable shop, they also used the same KYBs that I put on. They also didn't have the spacer in. Maybe the KYBs come without the spacer welded in because in some cases they aren't needed?

Fwiw, I had 31x10.5x15 on my 96 SE before lifting, on stock rims. No rubbing. I just put these on https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/pro-comp-69-series-vintage-15x8-wheel-with-6-on-5-5-bolt-pattern-flat-black-7069-5883/_/R-BKBQ-7069-5883 with 32x11.5x15 and a 2" lift. I've had to do a bit of trimming.

Yeah, that's probably a better approach. The OEM insulators are super thin and any tubing that bends to the required radius is likely going to be too soft to last. Good idea you have to wrap something in spiral fashion. I've got the old coils, I'll give that a try. I'm going to be taking apart the front struts for the third time now that I have the OEM rubber seats for the tops. @R50JR thanks for helping to convince me to buy the tools and do the lift myself! Like you suggested, I now have the tools and I'm closing in on McPherson strut rebuild expert status.

UPDATE: The DYI insulators worked ok, not great. If you're going to try this, try to get something thinner. Despite heating the DYI versions still had a tough time staying in place given the coil radius.

Is that blue similar to mine?

Posting in case someone else runs into the same...I need to replace the spring insulators on each end of each coil, 55034+A. They're ~$27 each, need 8 of them (two per coil). Over $200 for a cheap piece of plastic/poly sleeve. Screw that! Went to Home Depot and I'm using some tubing instead and saving ~$220. I don't mind spending money where it is worth it, but cannot convince myself these insulators are worth it. Top is the old insulator (it's old, thin poly), OEM $27 each , clear is the tubing I'm going to use to manufacture 8 of these for $1.20 each.

New shoes ordered. Went to Desert Rats Offroad today, getting 32x11.5x15 BFG All Terrain T/A KO2s on Pro Comp Series 7069 15x8 wheels (https://www.procompusa.com/wheels-product-details.aspx?pt=101508&lc=pxa&pqq=2336-1558-1551-1557&pqa=13671-8275-8056-8268&apn=PXA7069-5883_

After lift. Next up new shoes, the 31x10.5x15 look tiny now. The rear was in need of help:

Thanks all for the tips and hints. Got front and back both done yesterday in ~6 hours, including lunch break. It went really well as we knew what to expect based on your feedback. The clamshell spring compressors absolutely make this install a breeze. They are WELL worth the $120. https://www.amazon.com/8MILELAKE-Macpherson-Spring-Compressor-Interchangeable/dp/B01DP2CDJU Camber bolts definitely needed, but didn't realize it until we got the wheels back on. Will address this in the coming week when new tires (and maybe wheels) are put on. Moving up from 31x10.5x15 to something bigger and either wheel spacers or new wheels. The only "surprise" were the rubber parts, I didn't have replacements on hand and of course none in stock at the dealer. I have ordered and will take the front and rear springs off again to put on the new rubber parts (e.g. coil spring insulators 54034-0W010, 55034-0W005, etc.). Not sure how critical some of these are, but ordered and unless someone here says they're not worth replacing I'll tear things apart and put on new ones. Front went from 32.75" to 35.5" Rear went from 33.25" to 36.25" Will post pictures in a bit. Thanks again for all the advice!

kilt lifter

Magic. Thx. Post with picture above now actually shows a picture.

Holy sh*t @XPLORx4, that Tamer is a beast! Aside: How in tf do you get an image in the post? I searched, I tried, posted a URL instead of the image. Sad (funny?) thing...I'm in tech industry ?

Here is a before picture.

Awesome, I'll check those out. Torque wrench will be purchased today.

I've got two camber bolts from Specialty Products Company (81260), no idea what to do with them, hence my friend that has a clue coming to help teach me what to do. I'll be sure to get some anti-seize before Saturday. Will be sure to not use any impact tools. Thanks for the advice!

Next weekend I'm replacing the front coils and struts, and the rear coils and shocks. I've got AC springs, KYB struts/mounts/bellows for the front and LR9447 springs and Bilstein 33-18552 shocks for the rear. Have the 8MILELAKE spring compressor that several mentioned recommended. I've only got basic garage tools, i.e. not a full range of tools that a real mechanic would have. My buddy is coming over (he's an F-35 aircraft mechanic) and he's bringing what he uses on his Tundra. Is there anything specific that you'd recommend to have on hand before getting started? I'd like to knock this out in 2 days or less. Don't want to get part way in and realize I need to fin some tool I don't have on hand. I've looked through the FSM and don't see anything but those that have done this work know better than the FSM what tools were needed/recommended.

Currently Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S 31x10.5x15 on a stock 1996 Pathfinder SE, good tire for PNW terrain. Going for either KO2, Peakmaster or Destination as next tire for Arizona desert terrain, along with a small lift.

Thanks for all the feedback, really helpful. ko2, Wildpeak A/T3W and the Destination MTs are what I'll choose from, they all look good both visually and capability-wise. I'm really stuck trying to decide on final size to go with. Given the pictures/videos I've seen from you guys here I'm thinking it'll be 32x11.5x15. I've already got 31x10.5x15 and seem to have lots of room to spare. Will still do a coil lift and if needed spacers to fit the tires in. Have learned a lot from @PathyDude17's Youtube videos (thx for those!) and all the messages here, I almost understand what I need to order. Heading to Desert Rats tomorrow to poke around, talk with them about putting on the coil lift and new tires, then if any issues with rubbing they can bang and cut as needed. Not sure I want my regular mechanic to do the work, and definitely not in my wheelhouse. Those in the Phoenix area, if you don't do your own work like this who do you take it to?

For those who offroad in Arizona/Utah, what tires do you use? Will be getting new tires before too long, presently have Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S 31x10.5x15 on stock suspension on my 1996 Pathfinder SE. Also planning to go with AC 2" front and LR9447 rear, and I'd like to get as wide and tall tire as I can with that setup. I'm a mountain rescue volunteer and offroad for me consists mostly of getting to and from missions safely. Terrain ranges from mud to rocks, typical Central Arizona terrain (if there is such a thing as typical) plus up to 2 hour freeway drives before getting offroad.

I've got these ones in my 96 Pathfinder: Hikari LED 9004/HB1 They are ok, better than the stock lights at least. With stock it was getting hard to see at all at night.

Thanks for the feedback. Think I'll wait then, no rush here. It's been 23 years already with the pathy as is, what's a bit more time to get it right.