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bertrenolds

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Posts posted by bertrenolds

  1. On 1/19/2022 at 9:56 PM, hawairish said:

     

    Not regularly, no.  Personal projects have been consuming most of our time, but we've been talking about making a few more soon to clear out inventory.

    No, we've not discussed that approach.  I've read of others doing it, but not interested in going that route, either.

    Please sell me some 4" strut spacers. I bought some other spacers that I don't love and my car drives horrible the geometry is so messed up. I got .5 positive camber both sides with 2 camber bolts per side even. I sent a pm. I can pay asap 100% serious about buying strut spacers. 

  2. On 5/19/2020 at 1:21 AM, hawairish said:

     

    Awesome, glad to hear.  We're nearly there!

     

     

    I think you're talking about the 1.75" strut spacers, right?  If so, we're holding off on that for now.  A redesign to the strut spacer required us to change some part dimensions, making 1.75" impractical and ultimately turning it into a 2" spacer.  Also, these parts will fit both 4wd and 2wd parts all the same.

    So you guys are still gonna do it? I want a kit and I know others do as well. No one makes strut spacers and without a sfd I am tired of breaking halfshafts and binding. I have been holding out for your kit but not sure how much longer I will wait. I am considering a 2 "sfd and modding a steering shaft extension. As far as fb hate I think most people think it's never gonna happen. I'm personally excited that there is a kit you can adjust camber with. Really hope this comes together soon, I also have $ and am tired of trying spacers and ac springs only to still bind halfshafts. 

    Whats the fb group name and did you start the sfd thread yet?

  3. Any new updates? I know there are several people intrested. Im curious if the camber adjustment worked out on the strut spacers. Also someone posted your 3" kit on the fb group which was a 2" strut spacer with ome springs to make it 3". So does that mean you have 2" strut spacers that could be matched with 2" ac springs to make a 4" lift and then use 4" sfd spacers with it? Would love to buy a strut spacer from you!

  4. On 1/4/2020 at 8:10 AM, PathyDude17 said:

    Changing shocks is optional, but you may or may not notice them reaching maximum extension more on speed bumps or off road terrain. They will definitely limit the articulation if the 9447’s. A 26” bilstein shock (OEM is 24”) is pretty cheap if you do end up wanting to get new shocks.

    Got a part number for that shock? Im rocking the stock rear kyb shocks but wanna upgrade. Is it the Bilstein 5100 Series Shock Absorber 33-185552 for the 9447 spring? 

  5. Dude this may be the answer to the problem I have been chasing forever. I thought it was the fuel pump relay but that never fixed it. When I had the no start crank for ever issue it's cold out I pull my fuel pump fuse and it starts and dies then i fut the fuse back in and have to give it gas but it starts barely. I'm checking my egi relay tomorrow.

  6. 2 hours ago, R50JR said:


    You have already been told any spacer will bind shafts. It will happen at full droop. A 1.5” spacer is ok on factory springs be because the spring is so soft it doesn’t fully extend strut. But you will bind at full extension and maybe even before then.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I have broken a few shafts with 2" of spacers just turning right into a parking spot, it's hard for me to believe  .5" less of spacer would be any different. It's also hard for me to believe that a .5" ome lift spring plus a 1" spacer would be any different than a 1.5" spacer and break my halfshaft right away because according to your logic a lift spring doesn't cause binding so technically I would be running an even smaller spacer with a half inch lift spring. I can see adding a spacer to an AC 2" lift spring being a problem and as others said anything over 2" will cause problems but telling me a 1" spacer and .5" ome lift springs will break a halfshaft right away when I have talked to a few people now who have done just that and had no binding with the wheel off the ground is just wrong. I don't need you coming in another thread and being a dick when I am just asking for others experience with 1.5" spacers. I'm getting tired of pulling my front suspension apart and getting my truck realigned because flury is selling spacers that are too big and doesn't bother to tell warn anyone about it. I have zero experience with the 1.5" spacer and if it still causes binding turning right into a parking spot I'm gonna be pissed!

  7. 40 minutes ago, R50JR said:

    Again, DO NOT use any spacers with new ac or ome springs. DO NOT USE SPACERS!!

     

    Did I mention DO NOT USE ANY SPACERS??

     

    You will bind cv and break them.

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    Alright I hear you, no spacers on ac 2" springs that are brand new. Thanks for your input. 

  8. 52 minutes ago, R50JR said:


    Do not use any spacer with brand new ome or ac springs!! You will bind and break them


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Not a coil spacer, the spacer that sits ontop of the strut. Sfcreation spacers. What I'm thinking is the best option is 2"ac springs with a 1/2" strut tower spacer to level out the back with 9447 lr springs. It's just annoying you need a hydraulic spring compressor to put them in. Thats why I'm thinking ome med springs with a 1" thick spacer. I'm worried a 1.5" thick spacer is still gonna bind when i make harder turns into parking spots.

  9. 40 minutes ago, R50JR said:


    No, you are incorrect. Any spring within the strut is safe regardless of lift. When you add a spacer it pushes strut down and out of normal geometry. The reason 1.5” spacer is ok with factory springs is because the spring is so soft and a 1.5” spacer lifts to about a strut with ome or ac spring without spacer


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Ok thanks. So really it would be better to do a ome .5" lift springs like the 923 medium duty spring and a 1" spacer vs just a 1.5" spacer and stock spring? So basically the AC 2" spring is the best option and 4x4 has the market cornered on them with over priced shipping, unless they got better about shipping lately. 

  10. 2 hours ago, R50JR said:


    You will need a heavy duty compressor for the ome springs and ac. 1.5” spacer on nissan factory springs is ok. OME or AC with spacers is a no-no unless your springs are completely broken in. Still, only a 1” spacer max.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    So 2" lift is max across the board, I keep reading people think ac springs are different than 2" spacers and put less stress/angle on halfshaft. 2" is 2", it will increase axel angle no matter what is how I feel. So you think my passenger halfshaft will be safe with a 1.5" spacer? I know a 2" spacer messes with the passenger side half shaft angle bad but not the drivers side for some weird reason. 

  11. On 7/2/2019 at 5:43 PM, mvlzmarv said:

    Thanks to everyone on this forum/thread. Here’s my first mod after 8 years of ownership

    OME 2928
    Fleury +1”
    KYB GR2
    KYB Strut mounts
    OEM strut bearings

    LR NRC9449
    Bilstein 5125 (29”)

    Before:
    On old,tired, saggy and blown suspension
    e898c86097508c7053d138257fe675ca.jpg
    Loaded for camping and weighing in at 5480lbs
    36617525900c96f04b5cf23340015827.jpg
    After:
    f32455bf550e7481023608ac410de3fc.jpg

    No more rubbing on 265/65r17 at this height. But now I need more tire. Haha



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    You got ome heavy duty springs, could you compress them yourself with rental compressors or did a shop do it? Also what was your total lift upfront and have you jacked the tires off the ground and rotated them to see if there was and binding? Also why heavy duty springs over med, i don't think they provide more lift do they?

  12. I have 9447 lr springs, love them. I have 2" spacers so 2.5" lift in the front and I keep blowing half shafts. Wondering if anyone has 1.5" spacers and are fine and haven't blow half shafts or did something like ome .6" springs with a 1" spacer. 4x4 is a ripoff on the 2" ac springs plus I need a shop to compress them. I'm on the fence about a 4" sfd and strut spacers, I have sfd blocks, strut spacers are $300, plus I need a steering extension for $200 and it's just gonna end up costing a ton and may not be the best daily driving setup. I'm fine with 31's or 32's for tires because I have the weaker differential and I don't think 33s would be a good idea. What do you guys think? Am Im fine doing 1.5" spacers with stock springs? I drive 50mph+ in 4wd in snow and that is the most important reason why I need to stop messing up half shafts making right turns into parking spaces. I make 1 turn to sharp and my halfshaft is messed up after that with 2" of spacer.  Is a 1" spacer considered max? That's why im thinking I take 1 of my 1" sf spacers off and get a ome med or light spring. What do you guys think, I'm all over the place.

  13. 2 hours ago, PathyDude17 said:

    Alright, we’ll try this one last time. After that someone else is gonna back me up or you can figure this out for yourself. If you already happen to have spacers on top of your struts and put blocks on your subframe, yes, that will change you suspension geometry back to spec. However, an SFD refers to the whole 9 yards- angled strut spacers, extended steering, and subframe blocks, etc. it’s almost impossible to put in a 2” SFD to compliment those spacers for the 2” lift. But, doing an actual SFD (all the blocks and spacers) at once, which is really the only way to do it, will not change any of your suspension. Your strut will be pushed down 4”, but your entire front subframe will be pushed down 4” so that your CV axle doesn’t blow up immediately, and sits exactly the way it did before the SFD. As for springs vs spacers, you need to understand how a MacPherson strut system works, or at the very least be willing to believe the testimonials of all the people with spacers who experience binding and even blowing up CV’s. It appears you’ve decided not to research very extensively, and not surprisingly no one else has been willing to weigh in on basic lift kit questions, because they’ve already been answered a thousand times. Sorry for trying to be helpful.

    I have read plenty, obviously more than you have. A guy that has a shop put in his lift should be the last one giving advice. I know exactly what a mcpherson strut is, how it works, and how its a pita to lift a vehicle with one. Funny you 180 and some how agree now a sfd corrects axel angle, even a 2" sfd and its been done. The only difference between an ac lift spring and a spacer lift is that a spacer lift maintains the plush stock ride where as a ac lift spring will stiffen up the suspension and stop side to side roll but also cause top out and put more stress on your struts. Other than that they both increase the angle of the axel, why the hell else would 4x4 recomend 2 camber bolts per side. Most guys run ac springs and a 1" spacer but then they are maxing the axel angle and report binding. They do the exact same thing, both increase the axel angle equally, and now I will repeate myself and say 2" is the max lift for no binding which is what ac springs lift to. A 1.5" spacer would be identical, people like me have issues because we get 2.5" lift spacers. So to conclude maybe you need to read more, maybe actually install your own lift, and stop spreading miss information to sell overpriced ac lift springs with ridiculous shipping costs. I will wait for someone who actually knows what they are talking about to correct me.

  14. Here is a link where theexbrit basically says there is no difference between a spring lift and spacers and that no matter what if you go over a 30degree angle you will break half shafts. I think your missing the fact that the ac spring is a 2" lift spring which is the max safe lift, a 1.5" spacer lift would be compareable. And I'm pretty sure your just completely wrong about a sfd not bringing the axel angle back into spec.

     

  15. 2 hours ago, PathyDude17 said:

    An SFD does not affect suspension geometry. It will not affect your halfshaft angled at all. It simply drops your strut assembly and subframe by 4” or whatever height your blocks are. As far as the 2” lift make sure you pick shocks and wheels correctly to get your rear suspension travel as long as possible

    I still have a hard time believing sfd blocks dont correct geometry and binding issues on the halfshaft. You put 2" strut spacers on to raise the body and you pulled the subframe with it. By putting blocks inbetween the subframe and dropping the front axel your lining everything back up with the lift you put on the strut tower putting everything back into spec and assuming you had the correct angle on the strut tower your camber should be in spec by just putting the solid bolts back in. I get what your saying about springs vs spacers, spacers force the strut down while a spring in a way forces the body up. Im willing to believe you on the springs, I'm about to order some i guess since its worth a shot. I'm gonna do some searching but with 2actual inches of spacer i have about a 2.5" lift, I'm wondering if i went with an actual 1.5" spacer to get to a 2" lift like the ac spring is my problems would go away.

  16. 6 minutes ago, PathyDude17 said:

    I swear I just answered all of this somewhere, but here we go again. SFD kits are in the works courtesy of @hawairish and @TowndawgR50, but nothing is for sale yet, it would be custom work for now. Again, and SFD will not fix your binding, a spring lift will. An sFD is a fancy term for a body lift in the front. It doesn’t affect suspension geometry at all.AC springs lift a minimum of 2”, individual results may vary. OME, as I stated above, is not suitable for giving a 2” lift. A spacer is required to attain that, and those spring have been noted to settle to lower lift heights as time progresses. Remember that OME spring are built to handle well, not necessarily lift high. On 4x4parts.com, the $167 springs are OME, the $180 are 2” AC lift springs. A shop handled my front suspension install and alignment for $200, I think they cut down my extended length bolts from the spacers.

    A sfd would get my half shaft angles back into spec and I wouldn't need 2 camber bolts per side. I am fine with a 2+ lift and 32s since i just realized i have hg34 gearing anyways. Sorry I always figured a spacer would put the same angle on the cv joint as a spring but I stand corrected. Guess I will be over paying in shipping for them from AC. Thanks for your help, you just helped me make my decision. Guess I don't need that new strut spacer with camber adjustment then.

  17. 28 minutes ago, PathyDude17 said:

    Do more research. My AC coils have never and will never bind up my cv axles under any conditions, where as my spacers would have. A strut spacer means you’re lifting on top of your strut, which means your strut assembly is now pushed down, as opposed to a spring lift which lifts inside of the travel limited by the strut (hence experiencing top out with a coil lift but not with a spacer lift). You will never bind a shaft with a coil lift, period. It simply isn’t possible, the halfshaft is always operating within its designed travel. Just ask @XPLORx4. His 18 years on AC coils going throughout Moab and whatnot can attest to that lift. To the people who have busted multiple CV’s on spacers, @TowndawgR50 and @system_f can attest to that. As far as the SFD goes, understand that the only way to even justify an SFD is by going with a 2” lift in conjunction with it (4” body lift with 2” suspension lift with SFD). If you just do an SFD with no spring lift your ground clearance doesn’t change at all in the front, except by half of your increase in tire size. A 6” SFD on 33” tires has .5” more ground clearance than a properly set up 2” lift on 32’s that can tuck tires correctly. And honestly, if you’re serious about your rig you’ll find more and more reasons to go with a spring lift. It improves handling and load capacity, which is important for taking turns on a lifted vehicle. It also helps give your suspension more downward force in increasing articulation and keeping traction.

    Thanks this is what i wanted to hear, i have been wanting to do a 4" sfd to get rid of binding but no one makes a kit. If I can just do a spring lift on the front then done. So the AC springs are the only ones that will give 2+"? Or are their ome springs that do, I have 9447 lr rear springs. I will go back and read again in this pind toppic but i thought it said AC are just rebranded ome? When you switched back from spacers what did you do with the 3 bolts ontop of the the strut mount, I pounded mine out for the sfcreations spacers? Also were standard spring compressors enough to compress the spring or did you take it somewhere with a heavy duty compressor?

  18. 16 minutes ago, Bax03SE said:

    Not trying to put words in anyone’s mouth, but I think that might have been a typo because I believe Micah originally installed the 9447 not the 9448. Unless he switched spring set ups again.

    Yea it did get confusing for a minute there around the first 8 or so pages. I got my 9447s in and they are great. Don't quite sit in the bottom cup flat but i think they will settle down. Truck drives like a dream and when i hit bumps it doesn't get thrown around anymore. I can also load my truck down now and not have it bottoming out on a dirt road.

  19. On 4/2/2019 at 9:38 PM, PathyDude17 said:

    I’ll just try to keep this as simple as possible. For any of the coil spring lifts available, it is impossible to damage your CV axles by running those coils. AC coils of any kind, as well as OME coils of any kind, will not harm your axles, though they may accelerate wear on the cv boots (hence manual hubs). The trouble with CV axles can only occur when spacers are added. Usually a 1” spacer is safe. So, what we’re really talking about is the lift heights that are available. Check the weight ratings in the MD springs, as they’re rated to give .5” of lift under a specific load (likely similar to the weight of a front bumper). The HD coils generally give 1.25” of lift with no weight, but sag down below that when a bumper is added (.5-1”). AC coils will give a minimum of 2”, and will sag minimally under the weight of a bumper. It comes down to what you want your pathfinder to do in terms of weight capacity, lift height, and handling. Generally OME is conceded as the better feeling spring in terms of ride quality, but plenty of people like their AC coils as well. As for the rear, go with LR springs, there’s really nothing better.

    see page 7.

    Not sure how 2" spacers are any different then 2" ac springs in terms of damaging the halfshafts. Either is going to increase axel angles the exact same and your still gonna have binding on the passenger halfshaft if you turn hard enough. Only thing I found that helps a little is to get the thinnest c clip from nissan for the halfshaft end to allow a little play. I have 2" spacers giving 2.5" about of lift and it binds when you turn hard right, the clips helped. Still need 2 camber bolts per side to get the right camber. Please let me know if you have found different results somewhere it's why i want to do a sfb because im sick of this bs spacer lift. Might try getting 2" lift spacers instead of the 2.5 max.

  20. On 4/17/2019 at 8:58 PM, micahfelker said:

    9448’s in back, ac’s up front. 32” tires

    4fdc76c42a12f733b196242744f4a9f8.jpg
    89a8ed1ba7a9000ae3c14893f8466b5c.jpg
    d65d56f7b4b6480f1a47596e9e10b726.jpg
    ab81d1ea5b84c654f187b6e258a580bb.jpg
    d6996066432d419b10e296897e270215.jpg
    11c6d924a89e6c94e8d6aa2fdf6d6398.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Do you have wheel spacers at all? Your 32s look different then others pics. The 9448 gives you 4" of lift but you have 2" lift springs in the front? Did you use spacers and do a sfd?

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