bertrenolds
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Posts posted by bertrenolds
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On 4/19/2019 at 9:39 PM, hawairish said:
Throwing my opinion in, and echoing other comments, gearing probably not necessary if you have the 3.5L. I swapped to 4.636 when I put my Lokka and re-packed LSD. Don't recall if I did that when I had 31" or 32" tires. My distinct opinion on that first test drive was that the truck was that it had a lot more get-up-and-go than before. However, my MPG has been poor (I'm blaming the O2 sensors) for a while and the RPMs tend to run a little higher than I'd like at highway speeds. However, I re-geared for trail usage.
Since your in here and thru my searching your the expert. I just looked and my 5 speed manual vg33 has a hg43 and i wanted to do a 4" lift and put 33s on but now after reading a bunch it doesn't sound like I should unless i can find a hg36 front and rear which is gonna cost a pretty penny. Will i be alright with 32s? I live in the mtns at elevation and climb a pass daily.
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32 minutes ago, JackFletcher said:
What is the stock number for the 2” lift springs you are referring to?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI went with the 9447 from land rover direct and I am super happy. My truck rides 10 times better and hitting bumps doesn't thrown my truck all over the place. I can also load it down without bottoming out anymore. Rear the post that pathydude linked on the spring install, i was just gonna link it as well. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/43810-land-rover-rear-lift-spring-install/page/8/
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On 4/16/2019 at 12:14 PM, JackFletcher said:
Hello NPORA, in the coming month or so I plan to go ahead and lift my pathy. Yall have given me lots of information over the past 6 months and I have learned a lot. Today I was just going over some threads and reading about Lokka and LSD swaps while bored in class and i was getting confused about gear ratios and stuff like that. Then I watched a video on youtube about gear ratios and they explained it well. Also how they all connect with your engine, trans, tires and diff. Most people haven't mentioned it in any of their mild to mid builds so i figured that as long as you werent doing a sfd and trying to fit 33´+ tires that a regear wouldnt be necessary. Just to make sure I wanted to ask yall if i need to regear and what I can expect in performance changes. I plan on running 32s maybe something like them falken wild peak a/ts. Talked to some guys on instagram and they both said great things about the lr9449 and ac springs so that is what i will go with.
Thanks
Fletch
The landrover 2" lift springs are great, finally put mine in last weekend. Easiest way is to unbolt the cross arm that bolts to the panhard bracket, remove lower rear sway link bolts, pull the clip for the rear brake line and unbolt the brake line from the rear axel and get a big jack and wood blocks and jack the hell out of the rear on the spare tire or hitch it you have one. I was able to put my springs in by hand, no spring compressor.
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For anyone interested in a 4" sfd and lift. Right now in the facebook r50 lift group a guy is trying to get a group purchase together for 4" lift strut spacers. He found someone to make all the parts and all you would need to do is get the welded. I also talked to johann in this group and he is making me 4" sfd spacers. Now is your opportunity to get in on this. Here is the strut spacer link on the npora fb group. https://m.facebook.com/groups/2250790128?view=permalink&id=10156357726865129
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11 minutes ago, hawairish said:
I've not read 1" as a max anywhere. As mentioned, it may come down to CV manufacturer, or the possibility that the truck sits (or operates) at difference angles at different times. I don't have a definitive answer to your truck, but I'd argue there are too many variables. I've run between 1.5" and 2" of net lift (currently 5" of lift on 3" SFD) without issues.
Steve (aka @fleurys), the owner of SF Creation, is an active member of the community. His spacers are pretty popular, and I don't think he's had many complaints about them. I'd reach out to him directly if you have any concerns.
For the most part I don't have issues, it's when I turn hard to the right into a parking space, but it's only to the right. To the left, nothing. And I have searched a ton and its only the passenger side in any instance i found with a 2" lift, spring or spacer. I had a cardone from rock auto but that was defective from the get go and now a carquest and it's the same. Just something you have to live with. And any replys to my searches where people had no issues turned up 1" or less lifts like ome springs.
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29 minutes ago, hawairish said:
I just answered some of this in your other reply, but yes, a 2" SFD would require a modified or aftermarket steering link. Tool and hardware space will be tight in the motor mount spacers, though. The subframe spacers are less of an issue; you can using longer bolts to connect things. It's all doable, but a 2" SFD would cost almost as much as a 4" because you still need the steering link, which is the most expensive part.
If 2" of spacers are so problematic, and you don't want to change parts, I'd just pull off 1" of spacers for the time being, or even shave a half-inch off one.
From what i have read 1" max without issues otherwise anyone with more runs into the passenger side halfshaft binding issues. At this point since i need better rear springs that can carry weight and I am putting in 2.5" lift land rover springs I'm pretty much commited. I can really only go up because stock rear springs are garbage. I might just stick with it and keep replacing drivers side half shafts until I can source 4" sfd spacers and maybe strut spacers, i do have the files. Seriously sfcreations needs to tell people running 2"+ in the front will cause the halfshaft to bind, not that it's the max you can go.
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10 minutes ago, hawairish said:
You've answered your own question: they call it a lift because it was once sold as a lift kit; which provided 4" of lift. I agree that the "SFD" part is worth distinguishing as "not a lift".
You've got a lot of other thoughts in your comments, perhaps enough to start your own thread if you're having issues. As stated above, 2" of lift is in that no-man's land, and it's hit or miss in regards to CV binding. There no reason one side would be more faulty than another; same exact CVs on a mirrored suspension. Others have reported differences in CV manufacturers, however. A 2" SFD would require a modified or replacement steering link. A 2" SFD is also not as practical as taller sizes, noting that I've fitted 1", 2.5", and 3" SFDs on my own truck, because of tight hardware spaces in the motor mount spacers, and the costs of the steering link (though the joints can be re-used with a longer shaft if you eventually were to jump to taller SFD).
Any amount of lift requires additional or replacement parts. I'm not understanding your complaint there.
Yea, just talked to johann and he also said you would still need a modified steering linkage making the 4" lift with a sfd the most practical because of existing info. I have all the specs and cad files but don't know anyone who can make it, maybe but haven't pushed it because I'm not sure I wanna put even more $ into it. Might just deal with a binding drivers side half shaft that has a lifetime warranty and not turn sharp. I wish Krypton or what ever the name was still made a kit dammit. Wanna make me spacers? I know you can do 2" spacers and 2" springs but you still need the aftermarket steering linkage, longer rear shocks and landrover springs, brake lines, and all the sfd spacers.
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I have 2" sfcreations spacers upfront on my r50 and like everyone else from what I am reading the passenger side halfshaft, cv axel for those that don't know the correct name, binds when you turn too hard to the right into say a parking spot. It's only the passenger side, for some reason the drivers side wont do it. If I could get a 2" sfd made would I also have to find a way to extend my steering linkage like you do when you do a 4" sfd? The brake lines are obviously fine. I am tired of running 2 camber bolts per side and I hate when my halfshaft binds but I really don't want to invest more money into new springs again in the rear and shocks ect to do a 4" sfd. So would I need to extend my steering linkage if I did a 2" sfd or what?
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Why do people keep saying sfd lift, a sfd doesnt lift your truck at all! It drops the front subframe so that you maintain factory specs when you use spacers or springs to lift. There once was a kit that came with a 4" strut spacer but they don't make them anymore, guessing safety/legal issues. And someone does still make a sfd but he will not make the 4" strut spacers because again, probably legal issues. I have 2" sfcreation spacers upfront and thats max I would go. I have new halfshaft up front and for some reason on every r50 the passenger side halfshaft will bind if you turn to sharp which is what I am currently dealing with and it's annoying. Probably shouldn't lift more then an inch if you want to avoid this. Johann said he would make me a 2"sfd kit but im not sure if I would have to custom fab steering linkage then. I wanted to avoid going to a full 4" lift because the means alot more parts and shocks but dammit I want my half shafts not to bind! If your gonna go over a 2" sfcreation spacer just get 2" spacers and 2" lift spring and get a 4" sfd kit to go with it.
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Strut spring isolators/rubber that goes on the spring alternatives. Pretty sure my strut springs are moving and poping because I dont have them. Are there any aftermark companies that make them? Could a use a bike tire intertube and cut it and slide it around the spring? Anyone have any suggestions, I dont wanna pay what nissan parts deal is charging for them and it seems most any spring sleves would work. It's part # 54034 in the picture I attached.
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8 hours ago, joshrichard said:
let us know height outcome!If your going for as close to 2" your best option is NRC9447, they are $77 shipped. Otherwise you can get ac 2" lift springs for $180+shipping on 4x4parts.com which I doubt you wanna do. I am going with the NRC9447, the 9446 you were looking at would put you up even higher. NRC9447 will probably settle close to 2" so that would be your best bet. I was finally able to read everything without that stupid register tab taking up half the site.
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Still not sure if I should get the Nrc9449 or the 9447. I want a heavier duty spring, just can't believe a 225# spring sits the same height as a 175# spring.
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2 minutes ago, joshrichard said:
Nelica actually used the 9446 and the 9447 is the one that Micah used. the 9447 is .5 inches smaller than the 9446, but Nelica accidentally wrote he used the 9447. yeah confusingThat settles it then, getting the 9447 from LRdirect.
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What I am wondering is if the Nrc9449 which is 225# and the same length as the 9447 will sit higher because it's a heavier spring. It says it's 2-2.5" of lift so the same as 9447 but I find that hard to believe.
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On 10/22/2018 at 12:27 PM, joshrichard said:
I can’t decide whether to go with 9447 or 9446. I would like to be level with 2 lift in the front, although i wouldn’t necessarily mind some rake. I just want to know what springs would be the closest to 2 inches. I read that the 9447’s are .5 inches shorter yet Micah got 4 inches? thank you!
I am wondering the same thing, nelica said if they had it to do over they would get the 9446 spring instead of the 9447 because they are a 1/2" shorter but I wonder if the shorter spring would sag the rear when loaded down. I'm trying to get rid of the sag and bottom out when loaded or towing. I think i am gonna go with 9447 since most are getting 2.5" of lift. What I wonder is if you need the rubber isolators that go on the actual spring? Springs might make noise on the bottom without them.
Necessary to re gear?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Get the 9447, if your just doing a 2" lift the 9449 will lift it too high. Plus the 9447 is plenty spring for loading down your truck. The 9447 is so much better then the pos stock car springs they have on there.