KLL

if my memory serves me correct, when you pull, there is a socket for overdrive button, it is harder to put it back. so be carefull. i removed it once, to install led bulbs inside gear selector.

i dont think that transmisison can be worn out this fast. only 2000 miles. i drive smoothly and relaxed. i feel problem is in somewhere else. but i really dont know now. i am really disappointed today. about drive shaft,i think it is ok, no vibration on any speed; and it was ok after overhauling, nobody touched it, same shaft installed and it was still ok until this morning. shuddering/vibration returned back. as it appeared 5 months ago. may be, due to complete flushing of oil and fresh ATF make it better for some time and real reason appeared after 2000 miles once more. Increasing shift quality and better acceleration is only side effects of overhauling procedure. main reasons didnt cured in the end.

after overhauling, i was happy with my transmisison but... after 2000 miles it returned back. so bad... it seems problem is not directly related to worn out clutch bands or other elements.

new lugs are different. so i will keep them. a correction, stock wheels are not 98mm in bore diameter they are 100mm.

happy new life! in our home i always say the last words. -yes my dear!

here is the result i found that,offset of stock wheels are about +26 ET. my new tires are +10. so car has ~3 cm better track now. no rubbing issues.

friends, i went ot machine shop and i made them machine metal hub centric rings. because,the importer of those wheels told me that these were hubcentric. now i solved issue. thank you for your help.

did you check expansion tank? for instance mine is constantly dripping... it is somehow cracked.

mine is doing exatly same. mine was rebuilt 1month ago. so i think it is related to fluid tremperature.

my trasnmission was rebuilt. it was shifting hard 1sn to 2nd, there was vibration on overdrive, now no vibration, but it is still @!*%fitng tight, but little smoother than past. may be it is related to selenoids.

this is good to know. with stock alloy wheels, i was using stock lug nuts, not new ones are different in shape, but a little. if holes on wheel for studs, can't i use stock ones? what to check on wheels and on new nuts?

in a machine with a haweka branded adaptor, they rebalanced tires, and they seemed balanced and no up and down movement while turning. so for now lets assume wheels and tires are ok. about being a lugcentric wheel, today i checked stock wheel, stud holes, i found that the countersunk part is same as new wheels(tapered sides?). hole sides are not flat. but ofcourse wheels have a 5.5 inch 98mm center. is there any other indication to understand these are lugcentric or not. may be i need correct type lugs. also if these are hubcentric and if i find correct ring adaptors, can this cure my balancing problem? or should i try to give these rims back. (i do not want to)

grimgreg, can it be be said that , if lugs are ok, rims are ok, there is no risk of loosing a wheel while moving. can i use nylon or aluminum adaptor rings, to center it?

here you see original diameter of hub 98mm and new wheel center diameter 107.5mm, also thickness of new wheel is 17 mm around lugs.

actually holes are countersung . may be i should use original lugs to fit wheel. new lugs seemed not very well designed to me. unccpathfinder: should i understand from your words, i do "not" need hubcentric ring for perfect fitting becaus of having countersung wheel fitting holes? also, i wonder if center hub carries a load or not.

I bought reasonably priced 15 inch alloy wheels to have more offset and have better handling. Actually i got what i expected but.. After installation and balancing i found that there is still vibration and there were no hubcentric after 50 miles ~09 km/h. During re balancing i found my rear left tire is bouncing a little(its balance ok) So i am confused, is the reason of vibration, bouncy single tire, or improper centering due to bigger bore size(like lug centrig tires) and lack of hubcentric adaptor rings. or both. I machined an adaptor but it is temporary and it fits perfectly well to hubs and rear wheel centers, when tire is fixed with lugs with adaptor on, i remove adaptor and it "seems" wheel is well centered. any comments? help me please. thank you in advance.

what is the back spacing and stock offset of stock 15" alloy tire?

very good link http://www.1000rims.com/rt_specs.jsp

can someone confirm that stock 15" alloy wheel offset of r50 rim is +30 ?

thank you friends ,at least i understood what offset is. it is the difference between the vertical axis line and fitting point when looking to rim at sides, right in the middle. when -5 mm it, vertical axis moves inside of vehicee, so wheel moves outside 5 mm. am i correct? so if this wheel is installed, suppose that it is 8.5 inch, from both sides there will be 1.25 inch more width. according to my measurement on actual tire, there is almost 10 inches between the tire sides, and 8.2 inches is the surface of tire touching to ground. if it is so, tire will be looking like its sides are almost leveled with rim sides, vertically. and i imagine it will not be looking like an egg. or weird drift car tires. what do you say?

I need more width. Some may remember i was asking about spacers. I gave up that idea and now thinking about buying new "15 inch wheels. If i install wider wheels such as 8.25 or 8.5, what happens? will it rub something? Tire size is 265x70x15. wheel offset value is -5 ET. what does that mean? here is an image of that wheel. this is only model i can find. nobody is selling more expensive ones. I checked dick cepek and mickey thompson. no luck on 15". my tires are almost new. could you help me please?

here is final design according to new studs i can find and new nuts for each stock lugs shown inside spacer. gray part is the drum brake surface. thickness shown here is almost 1 inch. 2.5 cm. studs will go into small diameter holes.

i designed one for trial. i removed one of front wheels and checked inner part of wheel. it says 7/98 so 7cm is the length between two studs and 98 is the hub diameter. stud lenght is 2.2 centimeters so there is a question. is half of this length thick enough to hold spacer in its place?

this figure is very close to what he asks for custom built ones. thank you. may be it is good idea to buy ready to install ones.

pezzy, vengeful; thank you for information.