Jack9909

Thanks guys! I went ahead and got my 3rd member off, rusty studs holding it nice and tight. But I got it off without marking up the housing bad and yeah the new 3rd member fits right in and the driveshaft bolts up. Should be wrapping this up with a test drive in an hour or so. Oh yeah that's right, the fancy R200 pathy stuff, they don't seem tooooo bad to take out, I did find a couple pre-facelift pathys with the 4.6 gears so that will be the next mission. And also while my truck is tucked in the backyard I'm gonna be doing more rust repair, fun stuff, I'll have to update my build thread soon.

Hey guys, I read some threads about swapping differentials from other Nissans and it looks pretty easy so I thought I'd give it a go. I currently have 4.3 and open diffs on my truck (2001) and thought it would be real fun to swap in 4.6 gears and an LSD. I got a LSD from a late 2000 Frontier V6 with 4.6 and an LSD and I laid it under my truck to visually compare them and I noticed the frontier diff has a sensor right where the driveshaft connects to on the diff. And my differential doesnt have that, and I tried to measure the best I can and it seems like that puts the frontier's mounting surface farther out than my current diff. Would I be able to use this diff? I was just thinking I can swap all the innards to my current 3rd member but now I wonder if the frontier's pinion would be longer to account for the sensor.. And I DID make sure it is 33 spline, I counted the splines on both axles a couple times to be extra sure. Idk, I'm pure noob to Nissan drivetrain, what do the almighty pathy wizards think of this. i can take better pictures if needed, but theres that sensor, not really sure what its for

Wow awesome work! Great score on that sfd kit ?

No problemo always glad to help out people when I can =D , I'm the same about my truck lol if I can find something and clean it ill go for it Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk

Nah it's in line with the flywheel, when you take it off you can see the teeth the starter uses, pretty neat inspecting through where it goes Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk

Yup, sorry I'm not much of a describer lol but yeah brake clean and wipe it all off with a rag. That little green connector in the picture near the oil pan.

I'll add a pic to this post but it's on the bottom of the bell housing with a little metal cover, and a big weird push connector and one 10mm bolt holding it all on, my engine seemed to rev up and down sluggishly before and when I took it out it had a bunch of shavings on it and a little bb sized chunk of metal, hope it's nothing major but I assume all that crud was messing up the reading, haven't been able to drive much as I'm waiting for the rain to pass to finish welding my exhaust together. Weather is absolutely awful in virginia right now grr In recent news, attempting to make a y pipe and putting a little cherry bomb turbo on the truck, gotta give the tiger a good roar lol

Past week I've bled brakes, changed out master cylinder (no change oof), replaced starter and now I'm currently monkeying in a cherry bomb "muffler" because priorities lol. These trucks are fun to work on. Oh and also cleaned my crankshaft position sensor since I had to unplug and move the harness out of the way to get the starter wiggled out, woke up the engine noticeably, I like how easy it is to take those out!

Hey guys, been a while since I posted my derpy Tiger but there's been a good bit of work done since my last post! ANYWAY the main purpose to this topic is that my starter got worse than it usually is. I've been real lucky with it starting 90% of the time first try but now all I hear is the solenoid clicking and I have to hit the key a bunch until it the starter finally goes ah im needed vroom and when it does start it does it effortlessly like normal so I think the starter is fine. I don't know where the neutral safety switch is but I imagine it's somewhere on the automatic trans and it got mud into the connector and it needs cleaning or maybe a sticky relay not doing it's job. And also my brakes have suffered a lot, I drove my truck to the West Virginia mountains on a 600 mile round trip and my brakes were already kind of soft but now that it's back home it's easy to hit the floor and even for me it's a little scary to drive more than 40mph (i'm usually the one to test drive death traps and rust buckets for everyone hehe ) I replaced both rear cylinders hoping that would help as the cylinders on there were extremely rusty, although they didn't leak so that was pretty cool. I've also bled each wheel and the LSV so much that I basically flushed all the fluid out, when I first bought the truck it looked pretty darn orange but now it's all clear. SO I'm pretty stumped on my brakes, since the truck is lifted now I'm playing with adjusting the LSV but I just want to have good brakes, my brother has a 2000 xterra and holy friggin cow that thing can stop on a needle from full speed. Starting to wonder if I can do some Frankensteining and put an xterra master cylinder on the truck. Also what do you guys think about replacing the LSV with a T joint? That I've looked up from Patrol guys doing that and they either get crucified for bringing the idea up or they praise it for bringing back their lost brake pedal height. Either way I'm ok with trying things on my truck and seeing what happens. All ideas are welcome and thanks for reading my mess hehe I'll take pics of whats happenin and some other goodies I got going on. Since the last update I've lifted the truck with front SFCreation spacers for a total 2" in the front and I got LRC springs in the rear, originally lifting 4" but I trimmed a coil and now it's 3" (I think I accidentally got the 9449 springs) and got 265/75r16 all terrains, still have yet to go on an off road trip in the day light for good pics but man this thing just glides through snow and mud when I went on a little night trip with some friends. Did a bunch of other work but I'll get around to typing and taking pics, I usually end up doing everything in the dark like a mad man but eh I get things done slowly but surely. I'll keep you guys updated on what happens

These SFDs can be custom made for any amount of lift, but like 90% of everyone does 4", that google link of the SFD pictures are for a 4" lift setup.

I just did this recently, getting the bushings out is easy if you just use a sawzall and punch the blade through the rubber and just get as much rubber out as you can so it's just the outer ring of the bushing, and then use that sawzall and cut the bushing inside out so it's weak enough to hammer it out with a sharp flat head punch. But putting new bushings in.. Do yourself a huge favor and take it to a shop or anyone that has a press, they shouldn't charge you much at all if you walk in with the arm and bushings in hand. I did one arm with an extra set of hands, a socket and a hammer and whew, I got one arm done but it didn't exactly look pretty.

Yea sure, I never actually got around to making the blocks and stuff, but I've been doing a lot of work to my r50, might be time to get the welder out once this rain gets out of here. Here's a google photos album I have of pics for the sfd from an R50 facebook page, johann_peralta's I believe so he'd be the person to help you decipher these. ? https://photos.app.goo.gl/SKRkuqaP8TRb91Ew7

Yea definitely want to get more familiar with it all for sure I understand, I did see that one post with the woodward after I posted this of course, looks like a nice way to go. Thanks for help, was exactly what I needed!

What's up guys, I've been dying to lift my truck but I want to do it big and stout with an sfd, I got Johann's measurements on the blocks and strut spacers but I wanted to make sure I know the right about of blocks to make and all. So far I think the "ingredients" are 4 engine blocks, 2 front sub frame blocks and 2 rear sub frame blocks that are mirrored, and of course the 2 strut spacers which should be interesting to make. But when I'm doing the sfd, do I need a new steering shaft? What do I have to do with the steering exactly? This is new territory for me and I want to make sure I am doing it as correct as possible before jumping into it. Also I'm not 100% sure if there's any other posts that have detailed step by step guides on the sfd install.

I wouldn't be able to buy a set right away but it will definitely be a priority, super awesome.

Doesn't sound too bad, will definitely do the bushing on the steering rack, I like the sound of this though. Well for a little update for the truck, I've been looking at wheels, wondering if I should go 15" or 16" maybe even keep the stock 16" rim, whatever is going to be easier to get cheaper mud terrains on and what not. I do have an old set of jeep 6x5.5 rims, only issue is that the inner bore is I think a quarter inch smaller, but I've heard of people enlarging a center bore, but that was for little 4 bolt rims going by millimeters, soo idk, will have to clean the rims up and research all the things. Oh yea does anyone find the power steering pump to be really loud on these or is mine just going bad? It sounds like a supercharger. I checked the fluid and it was pretty black so I flushed it with the closest fluid to what Nissan recommended, which was the same atf I think, also when I did that the steering did feel noticeably smoother.

Lol poor vw, oh yea I almost forgot about the other side, yea I cleaned out the weird seams that were in there and ran some weld beads in there, felt like I could do some Fall Guy stunts when I was done. I checked out your Pathfinder project on facebook, looks awesome! Yea I'm realizing the cost of it all, going to start saving and pile up some parts to do it all in one go, no rush since my friends 4x4s are also in planning/repair states, glad to hear those hubs hold up, a blueprint of the sfd blocks would be great to have, Did you have to do any modification to the steering at all?

Hey guys, I just got my pathfinder a few months ago and I'm new to the r50 scene, I have some experience with Nissans through my dad's D21 truck though. I got a real good deal this r50 it ($600) because it had a rusted out strut, had to weld little bandages in his driveway so it would make it home, it was pushing on the steering. So far after patching it, it's been an amazing truck, especially with the hubs I just put on. I'm excited to test it off road and doing more mods to it. Welds don't look the best, still learning, doesn't help it was a cold day but hey it's rock solid now. I forgot to take a picture of it painted, I used some nice bed liner type paint, I forget what it was, this was all back in November. I've been doing a lot of reading on how to lift it and all and what I decided to go with is a 4" subframe drop and coil lift. I already received the landrover 9448 springs but I wanted to ask what else do I need to do a good 4" lift? My friend has lifted cherokee shocks that should work, there was a forum I found that had all the shock measurements. Another thing I know I'd have to do is a 4" panhard drop in the rear. Last thing that I don't know much about is stuff for the front end, well I know the subframe drop and how it's blocks but I was wondering if anyone had measurements of the blocks because I'd like to do all this as cheap as possible. So here it is, yeah the previous owner worked at a tint and wrap shop, every window was heavily tinted and had the tiger stripes put on. The tiger stripes have grown on me, especially since everyone calls it the cat now. This picture was when I got it, the previous owner gave me some led lights with it, those I put next to the fog lights. Pretty nice for being free, the next thing I did to this truck was put on manual locking hubs because I heard it's highly recommended. And I see why, I took the truck on a 4 hour drive today, about 200 of the miles on highway and rest city and got 320 miles with the gas light just coming on, I haven't put gas in it so no exact number but last time the light was on it had 4 gallons left it so I think I'm getting 20 mpg. Oh yea install was really easy, was able to use original studs, hubs were $70 so I'm not sure if they're going to break the second I push it off road or what but they feel well made and have weight to them. They even fit under the little hub cap. Sorry if the post comes out really big, I tried to shrink most of the pictures, I know everyone likes pictures though, I probably won't be updating this a lot but I thought I'd make a nice build thread to go with my questions. Hopefully pictures work as I'm using google photos with an extension to make it work on forums. tl;dr, here are the questions that I have. What is everything that I need and have to do for a 4 inch lift? I do have springs and the shocks that my friend has should work, it's either for a stock xj cherokee or 3" lifted cherokee. I'll figure out a way to measure them. Also, does anyone have measurements of the subframe drop blocks I could use? I've seen an old thread that had measurements for a smaller sfd but then someone said their measurements were inaccurate. Unless theres a way I can buy the sfd by itself?