gamellott

Wohoo!!! The Site is back up!!!! The clutch pedal, over time, 10's of minutes, does not fully return. It's not leaking or losing fluid. I can put my foot behind the pedal and pull it back into place with no issues, but it returns back to the partially depressed position once it's depressed again. I have a new master cylinder and slave cylinder (Not yet installed). I have a suspicion that the Dampener is sticking, which I believe could cause this symptom. That part appears to be unobtanium. Can this be bypassed, if so, how does bypassing it affect operation? I've been having this issue with my clutch for some time now. If anything, it's a bit annoying, but doesn't affect drivability for short drives to work or in town. Not sure if it would be an issue for a longer drive. Don't really want to test that out and get stranded somewhere while it slowly resets... Miss you guys!! Have a great day!!!

If I had aftermarket wheels, sure. I have the factory Lego's that would require modifying the hubcap if I install the only other option available, which I am not really willing to do. The Cheap Chineze ones are holding out just fine. It's not like there is much of a strain on that part of the driveshaft, it's just holding it all together and preventing the guts of the hub from walking off on the shaft. Agreed that they're probably not machined enough. I might... consider cutting it down somehow if it becomes an issue.

That happens. I managed to do that with the rear wheel seals. I don't know how I did it, but I couldn't exactly return them. Took me over a year to actually do the work after accumulating the parts to do the job. So by the time I finally got to it, it was... well just another delay. But then, it was all apart with no real excuse not to get it done. And Then... lets not forget finding debris in the pinion after putting it all back together.... which led to a whole different thread on something that I had never done before

I believe I used a short piece of iron pipe to drive it on since an oversized socket isn't an option.

The outer seal on mine failed some time ago. I have it removed, and I have a new piece of rubber from Nissan waiting for me to get it glued to the glass. Not finding anyone who is willing to do it. In the meantime, I have 2" electrical tape covering the seal to prevent debris from falling into the gutter. It's not perfect, but it IS keeping the debris out.

My bet is that you are having an issue with a fuel injector now that you have looked into the rest of the culprits. I'm experiencing similar symptoms, and I'm pretty sure it's the injector, since, like you, it was only sitting a week or so when the symptom popped up, and I have localized it to one cylinder which will require me to pop off the intake... Good Luck!!

I've taped a coin over the hole in the past since that OEM part is likely unobtanium

As far as the cruise working or not. My clutch pedal does not return all the way because I believe the return spring is broken. There is another switch on the clutch pedal at the top of the throw that does not engage unless I pull the pedal all the way up to contact the switch. If it's a manual, that could be an issue to be aware of.

I suppose you can put the calipers on the wrong side when outright replacing them, which will put the bleeder screw on the bottom, which will not allow the air to escape when bleeding the brakes. I don't believe the ABS could cause an inability to bleed the brakes. If it's leaking, there would be obvious signs like a puddle somewhere... I haven't heard of such a thing ever happening.... I could easily be wrong though. The Absolute best process I found to bleeding the brakes on these, is Gravity. Open the bleeder screw and let gravity do it's work. If you have a bubble in the system, it will pass. At least, that has been my experience. I've overhauled the rear calipers on mine several times because I can't seem to get the rust under control and they seize about once every other year. I think I may have found the holy grail and assembled them with silicone grease around the boot. So far, so good. Another trick/process, Doorman makes these things called Speed Bleeders. Their documentation by application, I have found, is wrong though. IIRC, the documentation calls for a 33mm shaft and that is too short and will not seat. The 35mm shaft fits and seats properly. They're basically a check valve that allows the fluid to pass only one way when they're open. The process is simple, open the bleeder screw once installed, and pump the brakes a couple of times. Once done, shut the valve and check for leaks. You may have to clean the seat on the calipers since the seat on the Speed Bleeder is much larger than original and my have rust accumulated on the seat in the caliper. Hope this might help some!!

I doubt that it would be the coolant temperature sensor. On my rig, a previous owner broke that connector and it was disconnected for quite some time before I discovered it. That connector being disconnected did NOT cause any issues near as bad as what you are experiencing. Isn't the limp mode setpoint around 2800 rpm?

Update to the bugs.... Thanks to crappy rain today, I discovered that the dampeners do not operate when a different output is selected as well as the AC not working... Looks like I'll be pulling the head unit and checking the connections and maybe looking for a replacement head unit. Oh Joy. Just hoping it's simple.

In case anyone was wondering what the manual locking hubs that I got looked like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTWXLS3S?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title They come with no instructions, but They do go on EXACTLY the same as the OE ones. I don't think I was overlooking anything, but I couldn't get the clip that retains the center assembly on the splined shaft. It's like 1mm too long and the clip won't go in the grove. A thinner jesus clip or something like lockwire (In my case) is needed. Maybe it's just me. A lot of mixed reviews, but I think the people were just installing them wrong as I did the first time I slapped them on. I'm not fully endorsing them as being the same as or as good as the OE ones, but they look good and they seem to work fine once I figured it out. No hubcap modification needed if that's what you're trying to avoid like me.

I'm chasing down bugs after putting it all back together. Fortunately, not many. It worked before I tore into the transmission, but now when I push the AC pushbutton, it doesn't illuminate and the compressor does not start cycling. I think it's coincidental. Having NEVER worked on AC before, what would be the first things I should check? Everything else works on the Head Unit for the climate control. The fuse for the AC is good which is tied to the Radio... which works. Is there something else that could be inhibiting it from getting energized?

To answer my own question, Apparently it does matter what bulb you put in there. The initial indications I saw before the changeover to LED's: Lights that worked - Cruise Cont, Rear window defog, ABS, 4x4. Lights after the LED installation that worked: ABS (Erroneous indication), Rear window defog, Cruise Cont. Lights after installing incandescent 74 bulbs... ALL WORK!! Properly at that... I don't think I have ever seen the Cruise light ever light since I have owned this thing. Now it works!! So.... it does appear to make a difference. LED's are cool, but some things only work properly with old tech!!

Pretty sure I didn't. I had the pinion out a couple of months ago and didn't experience anything like that. The light is dim, but clearly illuminated... because it's blue. The "Cruise" light illuminates when turned on and is MUCH brighter. Yet another thing that has me scratching my head...

Sooo... I've had my transmission out of the vehicle for a month. Just got it back in for a test drive yesterday. What an amazing difference a fresh clutch makes. One of the things I did while the vehicle was down was to replace all of the incandescent bulbs in the dash from 194/74 to their LED equivalent. After firing it up for the first time, 0ne thing that lit up, and stayed lit up, that I didn't expect was the rear ABS indicator. It lights up bright, then dims a little. Is this one of those things that doesn't work properly unless you have the proper incandescent bulb in it? I have NO reason to think that it's actually failing aside from sheer age. It was working properly before the work. I don't believe I inadvertently touched or cut anything to do with the brakes. Everything else, now, lights up beautifully. Not so sure that I want to keep it blue though... there are many different colors to chose from if that's what I want to do... but it does match the Stereo lighting .

Latest update: I got MOST of the parts on the chassis re-installed last night. Nothing is tight. Will have to lay under it for a while tightening up all of the fasteners. All that I have left on the floor of the garage is the front sway bar, front drive shaft, Crossmember with torsion bars, and a short piece of exhaust between the Y-pipe and Catalytic converter (O2 sensor will have to get plugged back in), and routing and securing of cable/wires. Now that I write it down, that's quite a bit of work left.... And ofcourse, there is the interior which hasn't been touched, and all of the oil that needs to go into the engine and transmission. Lots of little simple stuff, but it all adds up... One thing I will say was a heck of a LOT easier to do was to install/tighten back up the drivers side exhaust without the front axle installed. Also. The starter was also easier to install without the passengers side exhaust installed.... Everything, I mean EVERYTHING, is interference on these things under the hood if you're looking for some room to work!! I would even consider the front axle being interference to the transmission. There are a couple of bolts that I feel would have been almost impossible to install with the axle in place. I don't think I was doing it wrong, but I couldn't even see the top bolts of the transmission when I was putting them in. It was MOSTLY by feel. So... I think that's going to be it for this thread unless someone wants to add to it

Good!! Glad you got it figured it out!! I don't think the timing belts have ever had a lifespan of over 100K Miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. I seem to recall the first time I ever heard of one, they were suggested to be replaced after 60K. More than likely, this is not the first time this has had a timing belt replaced on it. But definitely good for you to replace it if you don't know the last time it was done!! I did the belt on mine for the first time 10 years ago. It had 285K on it then, and I replaced it about 2 years ago after I went through the top end. I think I might have thought to re-use the belt, but, as you mention, the hash marks were worn off. I think the marks on the timing covers are just a ballpark location. The hash marks are probably more of a hard and fast position that you line the dimples on. I haven't done a ton of these, but that's how I have always done it. I'll probably forget that tidbit of information on the next one I do....

I had an 82' 200SX that the heater never seemed to work when it was frigid outside. I didn't have it for too long, so I never figured that one out. Maybe it was a similar cooling structure... Common theme among old Nissans??

My head gaskets were cracked along the inner bead and leaking in from the water jacket. I had one REALLY clean piston. The rest looked normal. When I peeled the gasket off, I discovered that the only cylinders that didn't have cracks in the gasket was 3 & 4, just leaking really bad on 1.

Maybe it was the brand I bought, or maybe it was Maybelline. Every single belt I have seen in the last 10 years (Not Many) had a hash mark on the outside of the belt indicating where to set the timing mark/dimple. I have never counted the teeth. Maybe I'm special...

Yes, that bolt is giant on the crankshaft. I find it usefull if I have to turn the engine over by hand. https://www.summitracing.com/search/year/1992/make/nissan/model/pathfinder?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=connector Someone who sells Standard Motor Products. You'll have to figure out how they're keyed differently. I bought a set for the fuel injectors some time ago and I still haven't used them.

Just realized I mis-spoke the brand of the locking hubs I have on hand... It's Rugged Ridge. Sorry for the confusion....

IF you can get away with it in California, it would be a perfect time to defeat the EGR, Otherwise, YES. That is going to be a giant PITA!!!

The hubs I got from the Parts Yard are not compatible. I didn't count the splines, but I'm sure it's the 27 vs 28. The Ridge Line hubs fit, and they're advertised to fit the 28's, but they're tall and bulky and I would have to modify my factory Lego hubcaps (Not going to do that) in order for them to fit, or just go neked, sans hub cap. I pulled the trigger and I'm going to try the cheap factory OE Knock-offs from Amazonia. They have mixed reviews, hoping those are from people that don't know their head from a hole in the ground. Chassis rubber parts that I plan on replacing are scheduled to ship in 2 weeks. Oil pressure switch ships in a week That's not really holding up getting the rest of the stuff installed though. Just me being old and worn out myself Also, ordered plenty of new fasteners. A bunch of stainless 6mm x1.0 screws to attach the random sheet metal and hose stays, along with other nuts and bolts to bolt the exhaust back together. Fun Project. Very Greasy... would not recommend. But after this is all said and done, I think it's DONE for the big mechanical issues until something else fails.