Backpacker
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Posts posted by Backpacker
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How was the wiring and connector? Something I figured out when I did my coolant temp and pigtail repair: you can sneak a deep well socket on the sensor, then stick a large flat blade screw driver right under the timing cover into the square drive on the socket at a sharp angle and remove the sensor using pliers on the screwdriver and replace it without removing anything.
I would disconnect the battery for some time then go on a decent drive to let the ecu do it’s thing and recognize the new sensor if you haven’t already. If that doesn’t do it, go through the test procedures in the service manual for the ECT code. Do you have a service manual? You can download them from Nicoclub forums. -
20 hours ago, octanevortex1 said:
I just finished a 5 spd conversion on my '88. I noticed that the shifting was stiff and clunky especially when cold. I used 5.1 qts of 75-90 gl4 as recommended. I was told years ago from a mechanic friend that he uses atf/Dexron in most manual transmissions and gets excellent results. I tried it on an older BMW a long time ago and remembered that the results were noticeably improved. So I dumped the gear oil out on my pathy today and filled it with Dexron. The results are NIGHT and DAY! Shifts like butter now. I'm actually amazed by the results.
Are you sure the old fluid wasn't shot or the wrong kind? If it were me I wouldn't risk it. People get many miles out of those transmissions with properly rated GL-4 and good maintenance schedule. Not all transmissions are the same. It will definitely feel like it shifts smoother with the thinner stuff in it but that doesn't mean its lubricated right. I would look into the type of ATF your using and at least make sure it wont react badly with the yellow metals in the transmission like the synchros.
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1 hour ago, UPC78999 said:
Yep, the hose linked above replaces the bottom AB Value hose perfectly. I ended up getting it directly from the retailer's website because they had faster shipping options and I needed to get this fixed ASAP. Here is the link to the same hose on their website: https://www.retromotioninnovations.com/collections/universal-parts/products/3-8universalmolded?variant=30325925838951
Nice I will have to order one then. Also I think I was wrong above, it wouldn't cause a vacuum leak because it's before the throttle body.
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I've never searched for the hose before, but you can measure the inside diameter (ID) and just search " whatever the ID is" 90° hose and anything close to the size should work. Honestly I'd go slightly bigger if you can find and use some tighter hose clamps, it's in such a tight spot, the only part I hate about removing the intake. Mine cracked pretty bad several years ago, I have it just taped up so it's a looser fit and haven't had any problems. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure it goes in before the filter anyways so if any dirt did get past wouldn't be a big deal, could still cause a vacuum problem though.
I can figure out the thread tomorrow, my truck is at work under repair, I can yank it and see what thread pitch it is and let ya know.
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On 3/5/2014 at 2:37 PM, k9sar said:
ummm... I use needle nose pliers and an adjustable wrench. Shouldn't be so tight that you need a socket for it.
You have to torque the bearing down to spec, loosen, them make it hand tight.
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15 hours ago, Josh_Path2346 said:
Ive recently rebuilt my throttle body and I need to know how to readjust it. I was also wondering where I might be able to find a new Idle Up solenoid. If anyone could help me out Id greatly appreciate it. My specs are below
1989 Pathfinder
3.0 V6 VG30i
4x4
Automatic
Two screws on the throttle body. One is horizontal and controls the base idle, you can adjust it easily with the truck running. There is also the fast idle screw, It points upwards at an angle and controls the idle speed before the truck is warmed up. You have to push a screw driver into it hard enough that it opens the butterfly valve pretty wide to get it to turn, otherwise you can't get the screw driver on it without removing the air filter housing because the angle it points at with the throttle body valve closed. Adjust it with the truck cold and off, then start the truck and see if it's where you want it. Rinse and repeat till satisfied. I have mine set around 1100 cold and 800 warm.
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Here's the link and some shots with the first prototype on my truck.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/15l-NlSyDP_i69i3zcxD7mja0w7wJcLhy?usp=sharing
My printing skills aren't the best so it turned out not so well first try, but a professional could probably make a nice one. Here's what it looks like on the truck.
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35 minutes ago, elko88 said:
Has anyone experienced a pulling to the left upon acceleration when driving at highway speeds? My 88 does this, then corrects itself back to the right when I let off the gas pedal. Everything under the front end has just been replaced then realigned, new tires and all new brakes. TIA
Take a look at your rear control arm bushings. When they get really worn it can make driving in a straight line difficult.
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The full Rough Country D21 lift kit fits. You'll be tossing the shackles and have to buy coil springs separately, but the shocks do just fine. I've been running them for 3 months now and put maybe 5000 miles on them without issue on 3 inches of suspension lift.
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Check the lower control arm compression rod mounts on the frame. They wallow out the metal. Easily fixed (but a pain in the ass) if you own a welder. I've never really had a hard time finding any part in store or online or through junk yard for my 1989.
Look up "fS5R30A TSB", it's for the transmission info. There is a picture of the drain plugs to compare. Unless they had the trans case replaced at some point, it will have the lower fill plug that won't fill it enough. To see if it's had the proper amount of oil with the lower fill hole, just pull the fill plug and if a quart of trans oil comes out they had it filled correctly. To fill it, easiest way is to remove the shifter and fill it to what the TSB says. I think it's 5.1 liters
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On 10/21/2008 at 8:05 AM, bobco said:
what the ohms on the 88 injectors?? dam thing is running great now but cannot be trusted, I hate that in a vechicle!!!
For future readers, TBI injectors should be around 1.5 ohms. I've tested good injectors at 1.3, 1.4, and 1.5 values in the past. The 1.3ohm died a year later after lots of aggressive driving. I had a bad one that was only 0.9 as well. Always check that first if you suspect a fuel problem, the connector is right on top and super easy to reach.
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Not a whole lot you can do but you can definitely get some more from it. Here's a build someone did to give you some ideas.
https://motoiq.com/category/projects/nissan/pathfinder/
*merged posts -RedPath88
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My moon roof glass broke and I need a replacement for my 1989 pathfinder before the monsoon season starts. I'd also like to pick up a spare set of doors to modify into half doors. Although there are a ton of wd21's in scrap yards around me, none of tem are two door pathfinders. I've seen some pathfinders with the removable sun roofs (don't remember what generation) but they looked like they were larger.
Are there any wd21's or d21's with the same size sunroof?
Are there any pathfinder or pickup doors that are the same size as the 86'-89 pathy's? Thought I read somewhere that the tw doors had longer doors than the 4 doors.
Thanks Red, I'll make sure to post when I make the doors.
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My moon roof glass broke and I need a replacement for my 1989 pathfinder before the monsoon season starts. I'd also like to pick up a spare set of doors to modify into half doors. Although there are a ton of wd21's in scrap yards around me, none of tem are two door pathfinders. I've seen some pathfinders with the removable sun roofs (don't remember what generation) but they looked like they were larger.
Are there any wd21's or d21's with the same size sunroof?
Are there any pathfinder or pickup doors that are the same size as the 86'-89 pathy's? Thought I read somewhere that the tw doors had longer doors than the 4 doors.
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Anyone know exactly where the power for the dome lights in the back seats and cargo area run to? I got a dome light for the front, from a 4 door and gonna install it, just wondering if I'm gonna have to run more wire to the back or if it passes up near the rear view mirror.
Thanks
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Even if the generic reference caused confusion, the fact that I referenced a design intent to run without doors, should have cleared up the meaning.
That sucks, did they break from just being worn out or maybe from some impact damage at some point? ...or perhaps someone in the past who heavy handed them, I can see that as a possible cause.
The handles, inside and out, on my 88 are still good and it has over 435k worth of door openings one it! Even the rear hatch handle is going strong and its has suffered the weight of the door numerous times when the struts have gone bad... although that one is metal.
The internals aren't in the best shape, combined with the old plastic they don't last too long. I'm missing some sort of lock nut, so it needs to be adjusted every couple months for easy opening. That's the driver side at least, the passenger side just broke with no warning. My friend broke it, and she doesn't tend to strong arm things so i think the plastic just saw its time.
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Perfect thank you. That washer with the tab is what's screwed on mine im thinking, it's the only one that doesn't want to seat right.Pull the outer part of the hub, pull the snap ring from the CV shaft, and hold onto that because you'll need it again. There should be three pieces behind the snap ring. The manual calls them Washer B, Washer A and Brake B, but they look like a washer with inside splines, a washer with tabs, and a sorta bearing cup looking deal. All three can all go right in the bin with the rest of the auto hub. Basically just tear it down until you see the wheel bearing lock nut/washer (with the two Phillips screws holding it all together), and then you're ready to install your manual hubs.
I made a video back when I installed Mile Markers on my '95. The video quality ain't great but it might help if my description isn't ringing any bells. There's also an exploded diagram on FA-19 of the '95 FSM.
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I haven't had any issues with my inside door handles, but yeah, the plastic outer handles are weak. I bought a cheap set of chrome handles off eBay
My handles have been busted for about 6 months now, so I think the constant reach around and pulling the inner handle from the outside is what is making them start to go.
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The big washer on the driver side doesn't fit flush in the hub anymore like on the passenger side making it hard to get the hub on completely. I'm buying manual hubs tomorrow, do you think this will be a problem? Or do all the moving parts in there get trashed when the manual hubs are installed?
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I was under the impression that only applies to a uni-body structure, like a Cherokee or second gen Pathfinder. Doesn't the Pathfinder and Hardbody Pickup share the same frame? If they do, wouldn't the truck variant be more susceptible because it has a much smaller cab?
Or did I completely misinterpret what you said, and your only talking about the safety in the event of a roll-over? That makes complete sense.
As for the ECM, I'm aware of that. Its getting relocated in a couple days.
While we are on the topic of safety, could you recommend good aftermarket door handles, preferably metal, so I can put the doors back on? I removed the doors because the inside handle felt like it was on its way out, and i didn't want to deal with getting the door open with both handles busted.
Thanks for the input though!
Couple things....
- Unlike Jeeps, Pathfinders were designed to have their doors on.. they are part of the structure. Without them (or suitable and properly built tube replacements) you run a higher risk of serious injury in an accident.
- Your ECM is on the floor under the passenger side front seat, if you get a freak rain storm, it could be compromised.
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So no stereo now then? I want to do this on my own this summer but I'm not willing to sacrifice my speakers for no doors lol. I want to do kick-panel speakers, but the cost...
I still have the rear speakers and I haven't had much of a problem with volume levels. With it equalized more on the mid/high range, I can still hear fine doing 75mph on the highway. I plan on re-mounting the speakers at some point, or maybe going with some smaller high quality ones to try and fit them up near the A-pillar or something cause I don't think the stock size will really fit anywhere. Maybe mount them to the ceiling in a spot that no one will hit their head on them. I'm fixing my subwoofer this week so hopefully that will make the quality much better with just the two rear speakers for now.
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Guess you don't have to worry about wet seats in Arizona!
Hmmm... For now at least! I was sure it would rain the second I had them off, how it usually goes. Both my handles busted for the second time so had to keep my windows down all the time anyways, and my moonroof shattered a few weeks go and haven't looked for a replacement yet. I'm gonna look into waterproof seat covers for when the rain comes, and when my tax return comes in, I plan on bed lining both interior and exterior as the first step to waterproofing everything.
I feel bad for her, the trucks been abused pretty hard cosmetically since I've owned it, but I make sure to keep all the important parts that make it go in decent shape.
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Pulled the doors off my 89' a few days ago.
Everything I read said it would be easiest to un-bolt the hinges because the pins tend to seize from age. Luckily my 29 year old truck has no rust at all! Only took me about 30 minutes to get them off plus an additional 15 minutes to cut the passenger wires and waterproof them for the time being. The pins came right out. I supported the door with a strap through the moonroof making it pretty easy to disconnect the driver side wires from under the dash via factory connectors. Couldn't find there the plugs are for the passenger side. Now I just gotta splice some connectors onto each, I was thinking of mounting them almost flush to the door for easy access. I daily mine delivering food for work, and its so much nicer and fun with the doors off driving the stick.
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My front stops don't look bad. The rears were toast and I pulled some from a yard a while back. The noise ended up being the 4 bolts on the front crossmember that holds the diff and engine(I think?). The bolts right by where the LCA mounts up. Gave them about a half turn each and my noise has disappeared.Sounds like a bushing on sway bar You only hear the pop at a sudden rotation of the wheels Because that's when it's shifting sides. Mine had a similar clunk that was neglected for some time till I got around to it.
Now I click and ding due to the previous owner installing spring adjustments that have long failed on stock suspension.
Also original bump stops need to be changed due to age and myth that they: suck because of fabrication, age, composite, use, updated, wear and tear might as well if you are down there. I guarantee if you haven't replaced them they'll be pretty beaten up or gone...
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87 Pathfinder V6 - Motor surges in idle
in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Also, Nicoclub won’t list a 1987 pathfinder service manual. Pick the 1987 pickup truck manual. The manual will cover all the 2 door pathfinder specific stuff as well. They only made the manuals specific for pathfinder after I believe it was 1990.