02_Pathy
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Posts posted by 02_Pathy
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16 hours ago, joshrichard said:
My trailing arms are pretty donezo, any recommendations for them? Should I replace the sway bar bushings with poly bushings?I just replaced the whole trailing arms that I got from RockAuto, I didn't feel like pressing out the old bushings but I kind of regret not putting poly bushings in. Now that @TowndawgR50 and @hawairish are making parts for our rigs I might upgrade to their trailing arms. Also if you use poly bushings they could squeak more if they're not lubed with grease so just FYI on that. The Moog rubber bushings I used are quiet until they go bad again
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I replaced my sway bar bushings and the squeak went away for me. I also replaced my lower trailing arms as well but I never really got any noise from them prior to replacing them.
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Whereabouts are you going to mount the shocks to?
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Yeah I have the stock spare underneath but I'm currently running "32s" so I would like a spare to be the same size compared to the stock 29 inch. Also I would like the swing gate to have a Jerry can on it as well like@TowndawgR50 rig[mention=39493]02_Pathy[/mention] are you currently fitting a full-size spare in the stock location?
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I snagged one today at a junkyard for $19 bucks, I couldn't pass that one up. Now time to clean it on up
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16 hours ago, joshrichard said:
Okay, so I’ve got the light bar and I’m going to be installing it soon. What kind of button did you use to fit into the blank spot inside the truck? I’m looking around but want to make sure it’ll fit, any suggestions?
I just used a generic rocker switch off Amazon from a long time ago but here's a link to all of the different types of rocker switches.
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Finally had some free time so I just drove on some forest roads, and I low key like the moon dust grey
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Yeah the actual mounts were different between the 01 and the 02 but they ended up bolting up just fine regardless of the mount shape. I bought my grill off parts geek for about 35 bucks and had to paint match it but it was a real simple task. I just used the auto paint you can pick up at any auto parts store
Ok I appreciate it. I saw a video on YouTube where the shape of the mounts looked slightly different but I agree with you. Might as well give it a shot and order it. Thanks!!
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I would assume the mounting points should be the same, like my LE grill was molded as one and couldn't remove the middle insert. I bought an 01 grill and the mounting points were the same as the 02 LE grill. As long as you have 5 inserts total (1 in the middle and 2 on each side) it should fit
Does anybody know if a Mesh SE grille like the one 02_Pathfy put on fit on a 2004 LE? I’m sick of my stock LE grille so I ordered a billet insert and to my dismay I found out that After 2002 Nissan started molding the insert to the frame of the grille instead of bolting it on which makes it impossible for me to install the billet insert. My plan was then to just order a 2001 SE grille and then bolt on my billet insert, but now I am skeptical that Nissan has changed some other dumb thing that will make it impossible for me to fit it in. Have any of you tried putting a older grille in a 03-04? Will it fit?
Lmk if this doesn’t make any sense lol
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Well I can say that your paint is cleaner than mineLooks great! I think that space in the bumper is a perfect place for a light bar. My install isn’t quite as clean as yours, but here is what it looks like with a slightly shorter bar in the same spot with side mounted brackets.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. Your rig looks great!
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Theres a hole already in the firewall where the clutch would go on a manual. It's right underneath the brake booster, it's a diamond shape plate with 2 nuts holding it in place. Then you just run your wiring through there and into the empty slot with your switch. That empty spot I used for my back up lights
I see, thank you. One last question, where would be the place to wire through the firewall if I was wanting to add the new switch over to the left of the steering wheel where there is an open button place holder?
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I can take pictures of the light bar from the back later after my finals this week. For the mounting ends they could work but I'm not sure how far they would stick downward as they might be longer than the mounting brackets on the light bar body itself.
Do you have any more pictures of the light bar? Like the back end where it’s bolted on to the crash bar? Also, would a light bar with the mounting brackets on the end work? I know you recommended the type where the mounting part is on the body of the light but I found a good deal on the other style.
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NoThank you!! Will i need to bore out my strut at all?
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The link I sent were basically the same design as I'm using right now. I only needed 1 pair for my camberIm about to install my 2.5" lift spacers and i cannot seem to find camber bolts (the right ones) anywhere. could someone give me a link or reference for where to get the right camber bolts?
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https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/6750-05408384.html?utm_content=DN&utm_term=1996-2004%2C+2013-2014+Nissan+Pathfinder+Alignment+Camber+Kit+AC+Delco+45K18036+Front+96-04%2C+13-14+Nissan+Alignment+Camber+Kit+1997&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4oKl3q_13gIVjR-tBh2P_wRCEAQYAiABEgIRIPD_BwE&ad=47433949932Im about to install my 2.5" lift spacers and i cannot seem to find camber bolts (the right ones) anywhere. could someone give me a link or reference for where to get the right camber bolts?
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4 hours ago, RainGoat said:When changing out brake lights, have people used white LEDs or red LEDs? What effect did the two have? Since the lenses on the rear lights & the 3rd brake light are all red I was wondering if red LEDs just produce darker red brake lights? Is the brightness of the LED offset by the dimness of a red LED behind a red lens?Consequently, should one go with a white (6000K) LED that will be brighter but tinted red by the lens? Or will this produce a red that is faded to pink by the brightness of the white?I'm looking at these for the rear lights & any number of options for the 198 bulbs in the 3rd Brake Light (there are 9 bulbs there).I have a problem...Every time DDM comes out with a new reverse light LED I have to get it. It started with the 5W cree which is a great LED but every time they come out with a brighter one I want need it.www.ddmtuning.com
I'm using the same color LED bulbs as the lens cover. I have red LED's for brake lights, amber for signals and white for back ups. They are much brighter than the stock bulbs for sure
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2 minutes ago, joshrichard said:
I checked my alt and it’s working just fine
I didn't mean to say alt, I tried changing it but I guess it didn't work lol. Try cleaning your MAF sensor and potentially that EVAP leak could cause issues with the computer saying somethings wrong so it's trying to adjust to that
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On 11/17/2018 at 12:38 PM, joshrichard said:
I see, thank you. I ran the codes and I don’t remember the codes exactly but one was Evap leak (negative pressure) and i’m 99% sure it’s a little tube that connects to the fuel filler neck but i’ve been putting it off because it’s going to be a pain to replace lol. The other one was “Catalyst system efficiency below threshold” which i think has to do with my 02 sensor IIRC. Could an 02 sensor cause this problem?When my 02 sensors were bad mine started up just fine besides throwing the check engine light. They're really just for emissions, shouldn't cause your truck to start like that. I'm going to say it's something else
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On 11/12/2018 at 2:59 PM, StuartW99 said:
Tried tackling a similar light bar install last weekend but ran into issues with getting wiring through the firewall. I’ve seen a couple people suggest going through the clutch plate mount, is that what you did for this?
Yup exactly what I did. Just unbolt the cover plate and feed your wire through. Then cut a small notch in the cover plate for the wire.
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Yup!Alex is that you?!
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Yeah rigs like ours are not the norms for lifting as most of them are grocery getters. I bet that shop mainly specializes in the more popular rigs out there like 4runners and jeeps. When I got my lift, I purchased all the parts for it (struts, coils and shocks) and installed most of them myself at home. I just took the struts and coils to a shop and have them assemble the unit and when I got home I just installed them on the rig. For the rear you could get by with flexing the rear axle when the frame is on jack stands and use a floor jack to lower or raise one side of the axle up or down. I also used coil compressors that I rented from an auto parts store. At the time I didn't need camber bolts for my OME lift but after I installed 1 inch spacers front and rear on top of the OME I needed them after that. I didn't get any driveline vibrations with either setup too. As for alignments I never had an issue with it getting aligned besides the castor being out of spec slightly, but that's due to the nature of the lift.
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Yeah this was the best way I could mount them too, we'll just have to wait and see how long they lastI have strobing white LED's in the same spot as your amber, zip strips last 3-4 months and then break, but haven't found a better way to mount them either.
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Hello all it’s me again. So I have some free time right now where I thought I would do a quick write up. So I’ll be going over how I installed my light bar into the bumper for a clean look and also without the use of a brush guard or other mounting bar.Then I’ll go over on how I installed amber lights into the grill to mimic what every 4runner does lol. Might as well kill 2 birds with one stone. So with the light bar I used a 30 inch china bar that is spot middle and floods on either side and unfortunately I do not know what brand it is as I got it on Ebay like 2 years ago. But the important part of the bar is how it mounts. Preferably you would need a light bar with a slim adjustable bracket that goes on the body of the light bar compared to the end mounting brackets. Next you need to remove the plastic front bumper cover to trim the “teeth” in the plastic bumper and cut a notch at the end of the plastic bumper as well as expose the steel crash bar. After cutting the “teeth” off and cutting a notch you’ll need to line up the light bar as centered as possible and perfectly perpendicular to the crash bar. I used a sharpie to mark the holes as well as used a straight edge and measuring tape to get it as close as possible. Drilling in the crash bar is not easy and takes some effort but is doable. After mounting the light bar go ahead and turn it on as this is the easiest to adjust the angle of the bar before putting the plastic cover on. After you do that you’re done! It took me several times to put the bumper back on and off to trim the plastic just a little bit at a time and as well as measuring. With this setup you get no hood glare (obviously) and also more of a “stealth” look without the addition of other mounting brackets. The only downside to this is that is removes your front plate bracket which could be a bad thing in your area depending on your front plate laws. I went ahead and just put my plate in windshield and I may relocate it up to the rack potentially.
For the amber lights I used Grand General 77650 amber lights off amazon. I also went ahead and bought a 99 to 01 SE grill as I was tired of the LE grill of the pathy. When it arrived it was a silver color so I had to paint it black and I got it close enough with the original black on the truck. Then thanks to@TowndawgR50 and@RainGoat for light placement I then carefully dremeled out the back to cut a notch in so the lights could be more secure as the mesh wasn’t flat. After getting the right depth and width I went ahead and super glued the lights in and as well as zip tied it to the grill as an extra precaution. I then routed the wiring between the mesh so you can’t see it and I just tapped the wiring into the cigarette lighter fuse spot. So when I turn the key the lights come on and serve as my driving lights and as well as giving it more of a unique look. I tried plugging the tap into an empty slot but it didn’t work for some reason but when I put my CB radio tap in the same slot it worked so I don’t know if it needs a switch but I’m just gonna use the cigarette lighter for now. Since I was doing “light” mods I also went ahead and installed some clear corners as well. Also currently waiting for the emblem as Nissan changed it from a stick on to a bolt on but I think USPS lost it but that's another topic.
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Some of them worked and some didn't. Not sure why but it is 02_Pathy
BTW, I can't figure out why @02_Pathy isn't linking, is it the _ in the name?
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Oil Consumption and Dirty Intake
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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Mine's an 02 LE as well and it does consume oil even before the leaks I have now which I'm slowly fixing. It's just the nature of the VQ35 in other Nissan's as well even though some don't consume that much. When I took my manifold off to do the coolant crossover pipe gaskets and loctite the power valve screws, my upper plenum was coated with oil. Also when I replaced my PCV valve I didn't really see much improvement on oil consumption, it still consumed the same amount although depending on my driving style it varies. I would recommend getting all the gaskets for the upper and lower plenum as well as throttle body gasket as it is easier to have those items off when you do valve cover gaskets. Also be aware that Nissan made the spark plug gasket o rings non serviceable on the valve cover. So if you pull it off and put a new gasket on the valve cover the spark plug o rings might not seal again on the spark plug holes which could get oil down in them. That is the only reason why I haven't done my valve cover gaskets. I've heard you can rip them out and put new o rings in but I would be concerned if you accidentally gouge them and they wouldn't seal. As far as gaskets I just used the gasket set that Mahle makes and got it off rockauto.