bryfry

That is a smokin' deal on the control arms. They usually list for about $218 US. I've seen them as low as $105 cost. Who are "They"? Very easy to replace, especially if you are doing a lift anyway.

Year, make and model, please!!!! My 99 kept throwing the P0440 code (small evap leak), and after a smoke test, it was determined that the sending unit for the fuel pump had a small crack in it. The cost of replacement outweighed the resetting of the light every tankfull (I have a inexpensive code reader/clearer). I found it easier to just reset he light every time it came on, but although the fuel pump sending unit is pretty easy to get at (it is under the rear seat on the driver side), I'm just to cheap right now to spend the money on a new fuel pump and sender. And no, I too will not e-mail you. This is a forum and you can get your info as such.

The grease usually comes with the boot kit (at least the ones I sell). Personally, I would just replace the axles with rebuilt ones that have a warranty. You have to go through the motions in removing the axle anyway, and especially since you have been running with dirt in the joint for so long, there is sure to be excessive wear. Without the correct measuring tools, you will have no way of knowing how much wear there really is.

Look for signs of white smoke (not blueish like oil smoke) coming out of the tailpipe especially when first started in the morning. This is usually indicative of a bad gasket. You are also correct about the bubbles. The best way is doing a compression check.

Harmonic balancer..........

I don't understand the section about the spring gauge. especially the latter part of this: "With a spring gauge on one of the hub bolts, measure and record the force of the wheel" From where and to where does the gauge go. I've never had to use one before, so just a heads up would be cool. Thanks. Everything else is understandable.

Interesting welding job, kid. I'm sure your neighbors are thrilled.

You probably shouldn't have used the teflon tape. The brake fluid will eat right through that stuff, and besides, the seal is in the flared part of the fitting, not the threads. Just hope none of the tape gets loose in the system and clogs up a small port in the ABS.

If you are refering to the front flex lines, the clip you pulled is the retainer that holds the hose to the bracket, right where the hard line screws into the hose. Put that back into place; it will help hold the hose while you work. There should be a hex head fitting on the end of the hard line where it screws into the hose. There also should be a hex portion or two flat spots opposing each other on the hose near where the hard line screws in, just under where the clip went. An open end wrench should be used to hold the hose, and a line wrench or flare nut wrench should be used to break the nut loose. Don't use an open ended wrench on the line nut!!!!!!!!! These are notoriously hard to loosen up and if you try it with an open wrench, you will round off the nut. A line wrench is five sided so you can slip it over the line and grab the nut almost fully around. This is also critical upon reinstalling so a tight seal can be achieved. Apply liberal amounts of PB B'laster or some other decent rust penetrant (Liquid Wrench, Cyclo Breakaway) every day for a few days. This will help the loosening process. After loosening the nut, then you can pull the clip to release the hose from the bracket. Then you can remove the banjo bolt on the caliper an voila! You've done it! Don't forget to use new copper washers when rebolting it to the caliper. Good luck.

Ah, ha!!!! Hippystick!

Will it work on foot odor?

Unfortunately, the leaking rear seal on the master cylinder probably caused your booster to fail. Brake fluid is highly corrosive (get it on your paint and see what happens!!), like GhostPath said, so it probably ate the diaphragm inside the booster. Ouch........that's gunna cost ya'.

I agree with the bad back issue! I had to kneel on the radiator support and lean over to get the right leverage.

I got mine out with a 3" extension and an SK ratchet #45875 (bent shaft, flex headed). That gave me just enought angle without having to use a universal and an extra extension. Worked pissah! I'll post a picture of the ratchet when I get chance.

As Simon indicated, the gap is normal because the shaft is tapered and the pitman arm is wedge fitted onto it by tightening the nut. They never seat all the way down the shaft. That's why in some cases, a pitman arm puller is required to pop it off of there. Sometimes you can rap the fat part of the arm that's around the shaft with a hammer and it may loosen up, but I don't like doing that. If you want a rebuilt unit, Cardone makes them and the breakdown is as follows: 87-89........part #27-8400 90.............part #27-8410 91-92........part #27-8408 93-95........part #27-8407 The Hardbody uses the same box and they retail for around $350. Pretty pricey indeed. Good luck with finding a decent junkyard one. Hopefully you can find a low milage piece. Don't forget, you will need an alignment afterward to reset the steering wheel.

I, too, have some worn out sticker on the back of the pumpkin, but it's not orange. I have the open rear end. I called my local dealer and asked to check my VIN to see if I had the LSD, and the parts guy said he couldn't do it that way. I said thanks, hung up, and called the next furthest dealer. That parts guy said "sure!" and then ran the VIN and told me all about my truck including the fact it did not have the LSD. I did jack the rear up and spun the wheels just to make sure. Now I know where to get my parts. Some dealers just don't get it.

That's what I've been saying to myself for twenty years! Only kidding.....it's all good!

What I meant GrimGreg was that you can put down the the air wrench and the breaker bar! I didn't have the exact spec handy. Thanks for the detail! Stop hitting me on the head. I already have a wife.

Hear's my tale..........with a happy ending! Since I purchased my '99 SE used with 78k on it, I decided to go through the whole truck and change fluids, filters, etc. While I was letting the oil drain out, I pulled the #1 plug wire (which was somewhat stuck) so I could remove the spark plug and check it out. Well.....when I got the socket on it, I could not budge the thing. I put some extra grunt on the ratchet and it moved a tiny bit. I said to myself "Don't break it off you fool!". I used some more grunt and it moved a bit more. Believe me, my heart was pounding about now! Finally after a few minutes of slow, deliberate, and careful turns, it finally loosened up to the point where I knew it was going to come out. When it did come out, I noticed it was a Bosch double platinum plug, so they had been replaced. But the kicker was, the threads on the plug were as dry as a popcorn fart! I literally blew dust off of them! The plug looked perfect, so I placed a small dab of anti-seize on the threads, re-installed and tightened to proper spec (hand tight!). I then dabbed the end of the boot with a small amount of di-electric grease and re-installed the wire. Start to finish, it took me around fifteen minutes to check one plug! So, I decided to go for all of them, and proceded cautiously to the next one. It was the same way on all of them. Talk about nerve wracking!! All in all, it took me the better part of 90 minutes to remove and check them all. The worse one was the #4 in the middle of the intake plenum!! That was so stuck, I thought for sure I was going to break it off in the head. The last guy to do the job was just a complete moron! Moral: use a small bit of anti-seize on the threads, and hand tighten (not gorilla tight!). I hope none of you have to endure a similar heart attack! Thanks for reading!

Try a small tapered punch instead of a chisel. The small pointed end can get under the exposed part of the key and you should be able to pop it out. If you miss with a chisel, you are in danger of scoring the crank. After you get it out, run a small scratch awl or pick in the keyway corners to clean the rust out. It will help the new key seat properly. Good luck.

High flow cats only really work well if there are engine and exhaust mods upstream of that. Save your money.

SIMPLE JOB TURNS INTO HORRORSHOW! FILM AT 11:00!! Glad things turned out. Now I know what not to do when I tackle mine! Thanks for the honesty and the updates!

The radiator is a separate unit and does not require touching the A/C. Not too hard to remove--check on some of the timing belt posts for some pictures and tips.

Hey, for almost 10 years and 150k, it sounds like you actually used the vehicle! In terms of a Nissan, you are doing pretty well. If you owned a GM truck, you would have given up a long time ago. I just dumped my 1999 GMC Yukon with 155k and I couldn't send it away fast enough. Let's see...intake manifold-$600, fuel pump-$500 (not including a $200 tow), U-joint-$150.00, rear axle work-$1200, alternator-$225, radiator-$450, etc.... You see, a worn seat and some ragged weatherstripping would have made me ecstatic. GM? Never again.

The OE belt is a 6PK1065 metric size. The next smallest is a 6PK1055 metric size. That would be 10 mm smaller. The competitive part numbers are as follows: Gates/Carquest=K060415 Dayco=5060415 Goodyear (Gatorback-highly recommended BTW)= 4060415 NAPA (Gates belt in sleeve)=25060415 The next size down from that would be a 6PK1040 metric size (25 mm smaller). That would be a 4060410 in Goodyear. You get the idea.... The Goodyear Gatorback belt, if you can find it, is the best belt on the market to prevent squeals.