bryfry

Are your mornings wet/damp? You may think the wires/cap/rotor are ok, but they may not be. Run the vehicle until it's up to operation temp, leave it running and using a spray bottle, mist some water around the wires and cap area. If it starts to miss, then you found your problem. Have you popped the cap to check for corrosion on the terminals? When were the plugs last changed? Sometimes a miss could be fuel related. If the above does nothing, run a couple of bottles of Chevron Techron through the system. You may have a slightly dirty injector or two. You have to start somewhere to narrow this down a bit.

Check where you purchased your axle. It may still be under warranty. Just get another one and send the other back, I do it all the time. It's a pain in the neck to change it, but you'll have to drop it anyway just to replace the boot.

Hey dernt. Nice mower. BTW, how much do you expect to get out of the SC? 200 total?

If you can find someone who sells Amsoil, that's a terrific choice. Personally, I would use synth in all areas, including both diffs, t-case, crankcase and trans. I would find some synthetic grease and pump all areas (where you can)full of the stuff. The extra cost will create peace of mind when it comes to extended drain intervals. You shouldn't even have to touch the diffs for another ten years (at normal usage). I cannot stress more how well synthetic oils work. With all the talk of increased fuel economy, every manufacturer will be using more and more of the stuff in their cars. Less friction, less wear, better economy. Almost every domestic truck on the market today has synth somewhere in the drivetrain. It just makes plain good sense.

You might be experiencing a similar problem that plaqued quite a few GM vehicles. They used to call it "morning sickness" due to the fact the problem was only hard steering when cold. Most times they ended up replacing the rack, but in some cases a steering flush and refill with Dexron Synthetic ATF helped many times. The synthetic fluid flows much better when cold, so it alleviated many of those problems. As Simon has mentioned, the Lucus stuff is pretty good. I sell tons of the stuff. Maybe give that a go too.

After that looooong post, are you sure it wasn't the hippy stick talkin'?

I prefer the Wagner Thermo-Quiet pads. They are one of the best in the industry. Chamfered edges, slotted, and with a built on shim made of the same friction material. The part number is PD691, and can be found at most decent independant part stores (NAPA is Raybestos reboxed). The Thermo-Quiet pads are also NAO Ceramic, just like the OE. The prices will range from $50 to $60 US for a set.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA I nearly spit my coffee all over the keyboard.

I replied to your PM.

You didn't tell us the year of the Pathy, so this is what I have: There are three different numbers from 96-2000. The break down is as follows: 96 to 6/97 7/97 to 11/98 12/98 to 2000 Since they all take the same pad number (D691), my guess is that the brackets are different as the breakdown indicates. What I do know that the 7/97 to 11/98 bracket has a casting number of 4503 and 14mm mounting holes. The others I'll have to dig a bit deeper. When I get to work on Monday I'll check it out. I believe the brackets are unique to the Pathfinder. The Frontier takes different pads, therefore a different bracket. These brackets are not easily available on the aftermarket. Dorman products does offer some brackets, but not for this model. You may try the dealer, but more than likely you may have to shoot for a "loaded" caliper. This will have the bracket, pads, clips, etc. to do the whole job. Most decent part stores should carry the loaded versions. Figure on $90 to maybe $125 per caliper.

I'd just avoid the cheap crap. Stant makes a decent one. OE would be better. Like the other's have said; don't fill the bottle to the max line if cold. Good luck and let us know how you made out.

Excellent point, qtrotta. There will be a distinct roar coming from your engine when those clutches are seized. Something to check out. With the engine shut off the fan clutch should spin somewhat free. If it is super hard to move, it probably is no good.

NGK all the way. Part # BKR5ES-11 (stock #2382 ). This is the OEM replacement number. You can upgrade to the V-Power as well #BKR5E-11 (stock #6953).

Denso makes the better OE style O2 sensors. They can be hard to find in some areas though. Never had much luck with the Bosch on Japanese vehicles. They consolidate too many numbers. NTK s also another decent OE type sensor. This is the same company as NGK plugs. Denso #'s: Frt Left: 234-3097 Frt Rght: 234-3087 Rr Left: 234-4703 Rr Rght: 234-4704 NTK #'s: Frt Left: 24526 Frt Rght: 24521 Rr Left: 24543 Rr rght:24544 The Denso's usually run about $65-75 US. Make sure you clean the MAF with proper cleaner. CRC products makes one.

You can replace the antenna mast with the gear/cable for about $31.95 US. I believe the part number is 28215 9B000, but don't quote me on that.

I use Amsoil 5/30 and whatever filter I can get my hands on (although the Amsoil EA filter is a good unit, I'm just a cheap bastard). I change the filter and top off at 5k miles and then change it all at 10k. Been doing it this way forever. I never do more than 10k a year anyway so, it's just basically a once a year oil change. Cold starts are exceptional, and fuel economy does increase a bit. Compliment the engine oil change with a synthetic auto trans fluid change (if applicable) and change differential fluid to synthetic as well. SOP with all my vehicles, and never a problem!

Try replacing the radiator cap with a new one. Since you own a '93, I'm willing to bet it's original. I would start there.

Just thought I would introduce myself to this forum. I just purchased a 1999 Pathfinder SE with only 78k miles on it. It's my second Nissan in 15 years with the last one being a 1988 Pulsar NX. I just traded in my last, (and I mean last) GM truck to get this PF. I hadn't owned a GM truck in years and I thought they had gotten better, but I was horribly wrong. Never again......Ugh! I'm very excited to dig into the PF and see what it can do. I do a little off roading in the Berkshire mountains, so it will be fun to check this thing out. I've been in the automotive parts aftermarket for the last twenty years and I am presently the operations manager of a small chain of stores. I am ASE certified as a technician (brakes, suspension, electrical) as well as in parts. I have owned over one hundred vehicles in my lifetime and I can tell you just about anything you want to know about auto parts. You guys here seem very dedicated and knowledgable, so I'll be looking forward to conversing with you. One quick thing: I am a huge fan of synthetic oils and greases and have been using them almost exclusively for twenty years. More on that another time. Thanks again and talk to you soon!