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Everything posted by Zed

  1. Headlight power and conversion have been discussed in here. Here's a link http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34385-headlights/ For a relay kit - to provide more power to your 9004 Pathy headlights, I've used this guy Daniel Stern. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html He's got a confusing web site, but it's all there including wiring diagrams, etc.. KIT-RIKHB1 kit for two 9004 lamps: $99 If you change your headlight mounts to hardbody - than you can use the H4 sealed beams. Then you would need this relay kit: KIT-RIK2 kit for two sealed beam or H4 lamps: $69 Takes like 20 minutes to install. Hope that helps..
  2. Thanks Manik - I'll clean that out this weekend and see what CEL's I get afterward. It just seems a bit odd that I get a EGR code when installing a new O2 sensor. Anyone out there experience something similar?
  3. Yep - Had to bend the tube (heating) to get it to fit. Connection is tight. Tested the EGR - diaphram function normal..all vacuum lines good and connected. When I disconnected the O2 sensor - no CEL. Somehow they are related - just no quite sure how. ------- The car runs fine - with or without the O2 sensor. I think there should be some benefits for having one - for proper air/fuel.
  4. 95 vg30e M/T 4x4 Installed the pacesetter headers - with fabbed mid-pipe (w/ O2 bung hole) and high-flow CAT. Installed the O2 sensor (Bosch) and get Code 32 CEL. The EGR seems to be functioning properly. wondering how the O2 sensor and EGR are related in this case. I've cleaned out the EGR tube on my old engine, and will probably jump in there this weekend and clean out the gunk in this one. Any ideas what the correlation might be? First time I've had a Code 32 - they are definitely related - Code goes out when I pull the O2 sensor.
  5. Much thanks to all at NPORA for the hard work keeping this site going. It's been a life saver for me - and I get to upgrade and modify a great vehicle I hope to have around for a long time.
  6. Yes, I ordered an oil plug (M24 x 1.5). The pacesetter headers seem to be a good option for those looking to put headers on... but here's a couple of tips (summary) for those interested in doing this job... 1. Expect a few studs to break off in the head. If your on the driver's side, you might have to remove the AC compressor (if you have one), and air intake to have access. Having a lift or access through the wheel well is useful. Buy a set (12) studs and nuts. A lot of people are talking Grade 8 (300ZX, etc..), but a decent set of stainless steel studs should work fine or $50-$60. 2. You will have to bend the EGR tube to fit in to the hole in the header. To get it aligned properly and to clear the steering shaft. 3. You must remove the engine hoist bracket to get the Pacesetter flush against the head. Two bolts at the rear (drivers side) 4. Don't bother looking for an off the shelf mid-pipe - there are none available. Ditch the original pre-cat (resonator?) and cat. Have a muffler shop fab a mid-pipe with proper flange to mate with Y-pipe. Make sure you save the gasket Pacesetter supplies you. I added a high flow cat behind it. Everything is 2.5" after the Cat (Muffler and tailpipe). 5. Either weld a bolt or get an oil plug (M24 x 1.5) to plug up the second hole on the driver side header. 6. Ditch the 2" U-clamps that come with the header package (to clamp down the headers to the Y-pipe - slip fit). Go with steel band clamps. This will ensure no leakage. 7.. You should consider an oil filter relocation kit. It's pretty tight getting access to the oil filter. It's not impossible to change, but might be worth your time while your putting the headers on. Access to the starter will also be difficult... I'm pretty pleased over all with the Pacesetter (armor-coat). Adds a significant growl to the engine, seems to have added a few more HP (good acceleration response), and hope to see some better gas mileage (we'll see). Hopefully this helps someone doing this job.... Thanks to all for the tips, comments and suggestions..
  7. Update: Got a mid pipe fabbed (with bung for O2) with a high flow cat. Nice work for $200. Now that's all sealed up - I noticed the driver side header is leaking (thought it was the Y-pipe/mid-pipe connection). It seems they did not remove the engine hoist bracket - like I informed them. Didn't bother to check. So now my gasket is toast. Have to order a new set. Some lessons learned here. Also ordered a set of steel band clamps for the Y-pipe connections. Those U-clamps you get in the package are stupid.. It's always something. Hopefully by next week this thing will be on the road. I'll be sure to take some pics (if anyone is interested).
  8. Well, job is done....Very pleased with the work - and the price was very reasonable. Still need to find a shop to do the fab work after the Y-pipe. Anybody in the Phoenix area that can recommend a good exhaust shop? Having a hard time finding a plug for the extra hole above the EGR tube. Seems like a M25x1.5 thread, but that's ballpark. Any suggestions out there on a plug? Also recognized that it's going to be very hard access to oil filter - AND starter. Might be looking to install an oil relocation filter kit.
  9. Sadly, there is no intermediate pipe available - anywhere....all discontinued or unavailable. For those interested. Bosal (#751-879) and Walker (#43611) are the OEM replacement part numbers. (for 94-94, 4WD, M/T, non-CA). Looks like I'll be screaming down the highway for a few hours to get to a muffler shop to fab one.
  10. Well, at least they got the passenger side off w/o any problems. Had a lengthy talk - I'm convinced they at least know what they are doing. Picked up some Grade 8 studs (w/washers and nuts) to make sure this job is done right. Hopefully they can make it work. Now I just need to figure out a mid-pipe solution ( and cat).
  11. Just got off the phone and it seems these guys broke off two studs on the drivers side. Says there is no room to work them out. I'm not sure if they even used any penetrating oil before going in there. Now I'm wondering if it was a good idea taking it there.... Ah, the joys of auto repair. Now that there in there, I'm kind of "damned if I do, damned if I don't" with these guys...
  12. The guys doing the work are just auto repair. There is no muffler shop in town. Adamzan: There is not a lot of room where the Y-pipe meets the intermediate pipe - due to the crossmember. What mid-pipe works there? Where did you get yours at?
  13. Appreciate the input M58.. But that flange (on intermediate pipe) is toast. Barely any meat on there. Think a decent muffler shop might be able to build something for me from the Y-pipe? Have to drive a long distance to get to one - car will probably be screaming like a truck the whole way....
  14. Anyone out there have any suggestions on modding the exhaust downstream from the Y-pipe to the muffler (which is newer). Intermediate pipes are discontinued. The only pipe I saw that might work was found on EBAY - for $100..but who knows when that might arrive - and if it actually fits. I'm definitely going to scrap the existing pre-cat and cat, and install a newer cat converter. I just need to get a pipe that bends from the Y-pipe to put it in line with the new Cat - with a bung hole for the O2 sensor. I guess most muffler shops can handle this job - but there isn't even a shop in this town that has a pipe bender! Anyone on here from southern Arizona that can point me in the right direction?
  15. Hi M58 - Yeah, those are garbage, for sure. I'm thinking of an inexpensive solution, that keeps the noise down. I'm thinking to connect a cat direct to Y-pipe, then get a shop to work the pipe back to the muffler. My question is - what do I do with the O2 sensor? Haven't seen a cat that has a bung for that. Any suggestions?
  16. OK, I'm having a shop install the headers - it's just too much for me to do w/o my tools and a lift. Ran into some issues. Need to replace the intermediate pie and mid-pipe. I've got the 2 CAT system. What options do I have to join the Pacesetter headers to a new intermediate pipe and 1 CAT ? I have no smog testing where I'm at. Something with a bung for an O2 sensor. Looking for a simple solution to connect to the Y-pipe and the 2.5" muffler and tailpipe I have on there. Suggestions? Thanks
  17. Went with the pacesetters (armor-coat). Got a decent deal at Jegs for $400 shipped to my door. They look fairly well-made, but I'm no expert. Having a hell of a time getting the damn heat shield off on the driver side. Stripped the bolt head on the rear bolt (near firewall). Talked to some guys in town with a lift. Might make my life easier. These guys could also do the work, but it won't be cheap. Weighing my options. If I had this at my house, it would be a lot easier. Gonna give all the nuts a good soak with PB overnight and try and start this weekend. engine hoist clamp..... Adamzan: You can just unbolt that bracket on the engine. That's what I did. GOOD TO KNOW!!
  18. No problems with the standard Pacesetters? $369 definitely sounds reasonable. I've read a dozen comments on how the paint burns off leaving them susceptible to rust out. I know they are cheaper, but I'd hate to do this job again in a few years. It's good to know both (standard and armor-coated) are in stock. I did hear back from Rugged Rocks. $680 for the DT headers w/studs. As I thought, they are basically being made to order - so I'm looking at a minimum 3 week wait. I kind of want to do this job soon - not wait a month. I guess I can get a hold of some jack stands - probably make my life easier. Thanks for the input DJ and Adamzan.
  19. Looked on the Doug Thorley web site - headers are not in stock. Wrote to Rugged Rocks - no reply. Are these headers even available anymore? Most of the threads on Doug Thorley headers I've looked at are like 5 to 6 years old. Anybody have any alternatives if these are unavailable? I saw some headers from OBX - but don't know anyone that has tried them. What are my options here?
  20. 95 M/T Pathy Been riding the Pathy pretty hard the past 6 months and the exhaust manifold leaks are getting worse. Truck sounds like hell. Looks like it’s time to think about some headers. I’ve been doing some research - on this board and elsewhere - and it seems like the Thorleys (short tubes) might be the way to go. Sounds like most people who have installed them have positive comments. Unfortunately, the price I’ve seen (Rugged Rocks) is now $600! That’s $100 more than the last time I checked. So, my questions…I’m working away from my garage right now (I have most of my tools) and don’t have the luxury of my car jack and stands. Is this possible to do without lifting the truck? I do have a shop down the street that does welding - in case I run into any fitment problems with the exhaust. Bolts or studs? I’m leaning toward studs. I’ve replaced this engine and had the bolts out - so not too worried about breaking any in the block. I’ve tried tightening the bolts - but doesn’t change a thing. Any prep work or stuff I need to have available for this job? I’m especially curious about prepping the surface before installing new gaskets. Feedback, as always, appreciated.
  21. What year Mustang? Those seats look awesome. ~Hans ------------------------------ I think they came out of a 2002. The driver side was electric - which I gutted. I actually switched the seat sides as the bolster on the less-used passenger seat was like new.
  22. Here's a shot mocking the upgraded center console with the GT seat.
  23. The original pathy seats were real back killers for me. I lucked on a pair of Mustang GT seats and they fit perfectly. Using the old pathy rails and attaching them to the base of the GT seats - which lined up perfectly. Had to get creative on raising the outer side (used spark plug sockets ground down to proper height). I'll see if I can't get a pic up for you.
  24. Looks like I'll be breaking her down again. Thanks guys. Always appreciate the input.
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