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Zed

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Everything posted by Zed

  1. The comfort of these GT seats is like night and day compared to the pathy buckets. Perhaps the best mod I've done on my ride! Now I just need to find a manual R50 center console for some cup holders and I'll be set. Those suckers are hard to find in the junkyards.
  2. Hey NPORA - Since some of you helped me out tremendously with getting to my oil pan (and other things I’ve learned on here), I thought I would share a cool seat mod. Just installed some Mustang GT seats (2002, cloth), and I am finally happy with my ride. Got the pair of seats in pretty good condition for $150. I’ve had real issues with the Pathy seats - which have killed my back. My last long trip was the last straw. I’ve been searching everywhere for info on a seat swap - and found very little. I wasn’t really interested in swapping a crappy seat for another crappy seat, and knew I would have to get creative. Here’s the new seats installed. http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a467/felix9871/gt%20seats_sm_zps8aoqtzhl.jpg I don’t really have a write-up with pics, but wanted to at least inform those looking for some help in swapping seats that it is possible - without doing a seat pan swap (which looked like a real PITA). There really isn’t much to the install. It basically took a lot of measuring, finding a creative way to make some spacers, and some drilling (into the new seat pan metal). For whatever reason, the Nissan engineers made the seat pan about 1 3/4” to 2” higher toward the center console. The GT seats were flat. I started by taking the rails off the Pathy and GT seats - that was easy. I then mocked them onto the GT seat pans. I started with the inner rail side of the seats and drilled new holes. This inner rail was basically flush with the new seat pan. After measuring the distance between the bolt holes in the floor (each side was slightly different - around 15” give or take a 1/4”. I then drilled holes to set the outer rails onto the GT seat pan. Once I was sure the bolt holes matched the holes in the floor, I needed some solid spacers to lift the outer rails to the proper height. I used some old long socket wrenches that were lying around. I added washers where needed to get the right height. Then it was just a question of buying long bolts and tying them down tight. They pretty much fit right in, and then I just bolted them down to the floor using the existing bolts. Took me a long day to get it all tied down tight. So, take heart pathy fans - you can improve the comfort of your ride without too much difficulty!
  3. Thanks for the input, guys. I wish I could find some sort of rhythm to the madness.... I just know - it's not a huge problem, but still a PITA to see light up. On my next long trip I'll be sure to check the codes BEFORE I leave, and verify the code when it lights up. I've pretty much done that - which is why I made this a topic. Like I said, not a huge issue, but I sure as hell would like to know what the Jap engineers were thinkin' when they made that code 55 (I'm part Jap, so I can say that). ---- As an adendum - Rancho RS5000 (5116) shocks are awesome. Had KYB's up front, Changed everything out for the Ranchos. Love it~!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  4. I've been getting this weird code 55 on long trips - NO MALFUNCTION. Swapped the old VG30E for this one - riding great, but the CEL kicks on after an hour or two of driving. Usually will go off if I shut the car down and start up again. I realize there is no problem, but it is unnerving to see that light go on. Is there any way to void that code, or any suggestions on how to correct this issue?
  5. That was all the difference in the world. Man, what a dumb ass I am. Path rides well now! Was a bit worried I got a bum set of shocks! You Da Man!
  6. Uh, I meant the rear. Oil res is currently up. I'll get to it today - should make a WORLD of difference. Much thanks.
  7. Damn, your a freakin' genius PATJ. The damn cans are upside down up front!
  8. 95 pathy - just did front suspension (U/L ball joints, t-rods, center link, sway bar, tension bars and bushings), and installed Rancho rs5000 shocks all around. Now I get this rather nauseating front-to-back body roll over uneven highway terrain and off road bumps. Is this a torsion bar issue? Rear springs? rear control arms? I had the car aligned after doing front suspension, the car sits pretty evenly, and there is no "death wobble" on the highway, but the front/back body roll (car loaded or not) is pretty upsetting. Not sure where to begin...Any ideas from the experts?
  9. Yeah, some crappy luck with the pickup tube hole and metal pieces in destroying the oil pump ...and some good luck finding a motor and an installer for a very reasonable price. It hurt the pocket book, but I'm back on the road. I had most of the parts for the front suspension and just decided to do the whole thing once I considered the swap. The tension rod bushings were much easier than I thought they would be, but the Energy Suspension sway bar bushings were a PITA. They are longer than stock and trying to compress those suckers to get the nut on the bolt was a challenge. As for the KYB's, not TOO bouncy, but yes, not the tightest ride. Considering the shocks I pulled were the original Nissan shocks that came with the car (totally shot), the ride is night and day. So, I can certainly deal with the sedan-like ride. The car no longer drifts, and there is little or no play on the wheel. That was a big problem for me coming across the country - drifting into the shoulder after looking away for a few seconds.
  10. oh, forgot about the new KYB-GR-2 shocks and POR-15 treatment to the frame! Of course, all of this means nothing if some moron dropped an oil drain plug repair tool in this oil pan.
  11. Yeah, after three plus weeks of pulling this thing apart, it's all back together and running well. The swap went pretty flawlessly - we did it in 10 hours. Getting the differential back in was a major PITA by myself (had to unattach the crossmember), but managed somehow. So, now I've also got a new Sachs clutch and throw-out bearing, an A/C pump that works(!), a completely new front suspension (Master Chassis parts - ball joints, tie rods; Energy Suspension - sway bar and strut rod bushings; aftermarket center link), new CV axles, and trimmed my brake rotors with new ceramic pads. I'm getting an alignment done tomorrow. So, although this freak incident caused alot of pain, aggravation, and dinero - it all worked out in the end. I can honestly say I couldn't have done it without the input from the members on here. Thanks all!
  12. Hey that's really clever SW! I'm glad you feel so compelled to make light of someone elses auto hardships. I've been working on this problem for weeks, and most of the members have been really helpful. Your comments....not so much. FYI. I just swapped out my engine and back on the road.
  13. Yeah, it's all set. Guy said he heard it run on the original Pathy, said it sounded great and did a full compression check. Clutch was bad. Vehicle is still there - guess he's selling for parts. All the engine shops in town turned me down. Said there was no money in it for them because all the external accessories (new clutch/A/C comp/timing belt/tensioner/belts/oil seal/etc) were already on the engine (where they make their bread). With the labor chopped out of the diff and oil pan - they all said no way. So, sounds legit. I've been talking with him about it since this happened. He was hesitant to get into pulling the diff and oil pan. That job is already done! Hey, thanks for everyone that helped me out along the way. Learned alot about this thing.
  14. The truck definitely had a proper drain plug in it. Those were the parts I found in the oil pan when I pulled it, and I have confirmed that at least one of those pieces got sucked into the oil pump. I've found a VG30e engine in Portland. The guy had it running on the prior vehicle, and he swears by it's performance. He's willing to do the swap and give me the engine (w/ 160K) for $900. I think that's fair. I asked around town, and nobody wants to do the swap, because all the acessories are already on the engine and I already pulled the differential and oil pan. This has a working A/C compressor (mine is shot), and a new Sachs clutch (which I think I needed in due time). Seems like a win-win, and I will take the original engine and try to resolve the metal/ crank issue off the truck and try to sell it. That's what I got at the moment. I'm a bit hesitant to pull the bearing caps, and feel there is little more I can do with this engine. Tough luck, for sure, but hopefully I can get this thing back on its way.
  15. I tried to post these earlier, but couldn't sort it out. The pickup tube had a hole in the sieve. It must have sucked that aluminum part into the oil pump. Here is the part that got sucked up....
  16. UPDATE: I have confirmed that those pieces in the oil pump come from those drain plug repair tools. The weaker portions of those aluminum wings went past the pump. The question I have is - if that aluminum piece made it through the oil pump, where does it go from there? Is the front crankshaft seal lubricated directly from the oil pump? It didn't look like that to me when I separated the oil pump from the block. I'm just trying to figure out how bad the damage is at this point. I guess I'll pull the bearing cap tomorrow and look at the bearings for scoring. If they are Okay, then maybe I just need to re-hone and replace the front seal. Wishful thinking, I know, but it's worth a look see.
  17. Yeah, that's kind of my thinking. There just doesn't seem to be much point putting an oil pump on there. So, it looks like I'm in the market for another engine - or sell this one for parts (that includes the complete new front suspension packages sitting in my garage!!). I'm in the Eugene, Oregon area. Looking for engines or buyers. Probably make my way to the Parts forum. Damn shame, because this thing ran great and earned it's stripes in the short time I've owned it. If I didn't love the thing so much, I wouldn't have bothered to go this far! Anyway, I really appreciated all the assistance on here.
  18. Found these in there. Look like bolt/screw sleeves.
  19. Ok, I'll pull that oil pump apart and see what I find. A used oil pump? I'm not going through that process again! Yeah, but all that metal twisted up in the crank? I would think I need to dislodge that stuff first, before I put it back together, right? I was able to pull some metal out of there, it's definitely aluminum.
  20. Getting that deep into the engine is slightly above my skill set. Is this thing worth saving? What am I looking at in terms of repair? Basically, is there any hope to salvage this engine?
  21. I guess that is steel. Here's what catastrophic oil pump failure looks like...
  22. Looks like bad news. Got the pump off (actually missed a small bolt on pass. side). Back of pump has alot of metal shavings see pic. [A bit hard to see, but pretty much everywhere you see a whitish fleck, that's metal shavings. Then when I examined the crankshaft, there was metal wrapped around it. I'm pretty sure its aluminum. Not sure how a screw from the oil pan could make it to the engine. Any thoughts? Here's the sad sight S That's all cut-your-finger-off metal wrapped around the front seal. ..It's wrapped in there good. Maybe got the crankshaft stuck, minimizing the oil pump pressure. Jeez, What am I dealing with here?! I haven't opened up the oil pump yet. One damn screw is giving me fits.
  23. Ok, at the pump... can't seem to pull that thing off. I've tried gently tapping it with a rubber mallet - nothing. Do I need to remove the bolts from the water pump as well? Maybe remove the Post? Remove the crankshaft seal? Looking at the FSM, I'm pretty sure I have all the bolts off, but it's not budging. Also looks like a seal along both sides of the top of the oil pan. I'm assuming that's all connected to the oil pump. You might notice the oil pump gasket hanging above the oil pump. So, that's not kosher.
  24. UPDATE: Down to the timing belt. Everything looks good in there. Trying to figure out the best way to lock the cams down. Zip ties? Also, if you take the crank bolt out, how do you turn the crank to adjust the camshaft marks to the TDC dimples? I put the bolt back in to turn the belt to TDC position, but if I take it out everything will probably move. Maybe a stupid question, but I want to make sure I don't screw this part up. Having a hell of a time finding OEM Nissan oil pumps for vg30e. The Nissan dealer in town is checking, and NissanPartsDeal is super slow to confirm availability. Any aftermarket brands that could be recommended? Thanks for the assistance guys. Your input is most appreciated.
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