Zed

95 pathy Seems like I have a small leak from my water pump. Coolant dripping right on the harmonic balancer pulley. A few small drops, but still noticeable on the ground. I've looked all around the pump (where I can see and feel) and see no visible leaks. I've done the research and it seems this is an indication that the bearings are going in the pump. My question is - how much time do I have before this things craps out? I've got a long trip coming up and wondering if this might be a catastrophic issue on the road. Stinks, because I was just in there to replace the camshaft and crank seals.

I'm guessing you've seen this pdf http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/files/solution2.pdf I've got a 95, which doesn't have that VR.

Funny - I never even noticed it before, but it's actually a pin to keep the tire carrier from moving. I still have mine. Here are some shots Not sure what the upper holes do on the carrier.

Well, I'll break the ice - your 4 postings have gotten my attention. Most likely an antenna whip for a CB. Pretty common location for it.

You will find a ton of info here at this forum if you search. I’m pretty much a newbie to Pathfinders (~2 years), and the vets and old-timers on this forum have always provided reliable advice and how-to’s. I did a lot of research before I even bought my truck (‘95 5 speed) - and knew where all the known rust locations were from the mid-west truck I bought (now all repaired). Rear Frame, under the back seats, back door runners, bumpers, driver floor (from exhaust leak), bushing cups, and wheel wells are all typical problem spots. If your frame is shot, look elsewhere. Definitely follow SW’s advice about the ECU codes (check engine light). That should tell you a lot about any engine issues. Chances are the ABS light is on. Other Electronics have been known to cause headaches - make sure you check the instrument cluster gauges (temp/fuel) and power window and lock buttons. Also check for water leaks - sun roof, window seals, back window. If your wondering what you can do to modify or upgrade this vehicle for serious off-road, check this link http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/nissan-hardbody-d21-and-pathfinder-wd21-faq-18593.html Good luck.

Hmmm. I think another Fel-Pro would definitely work placing it the way you describe. I know I can make a decent temporary repair until I have to install new pipes. Thanks for the tip!

Well, installed the Fel-Pro gasket. A little thicker and definite improvement. Placed a nice line of RTV Copper on the mid-pipe flange in there as well. There's still a bit of a leak at the top (where I had difficulties cleaning it up). Obviously, I should have taken care of this when the floorboard was open. But after messing with it, Adamzan is right, the flanges are a bit thin around the bolt holes - preventing a really tight seal. So, this repair will have to do for now. I guess I'll start shopping for a Y and mid-pipe.

I'll install the Fel-pro gasket today and see where I'm at. The pipes may look bad, but they are actually fairly solid. If this new gasket doesn't help the leak, then maybe I'll look into a new y-pipe and mid-pipe. I've read some horror stories about y-pipes not fitting. I'll do a bit more research on it. Thanks.

Yeah, same multi-layered metal gasket that rotted out. I'll try the Fel-Pro gasket. Should be an easy job. Thanks for the assistance Citron.

Prepped the flange and installed the gasket - like I thought still a thin gap. The flanges seem to mate beautifully w/o the gasket, Go figure. The exhaust leak is not nearly as bad, but still there. Are those Felpro gaskets thicker, Citron? I think I could seal it up with another gasket and some wrap.

My mid-pipe does not lay on the cross-member. I'm probably less than an inch above it. But I just had everything passed the cat done at a muffler shop and they put a new hanger in for me - I can't remember if it sat on the cross-member before that.

The flange surprisingly is in decent shape. Just a bit of rust on the mid-pie flange (on the other side of the exhaust leak). [Looking up - Front of engine to the right] It seems like a donut is welded into the mid-pipe. So, is sealant recommended in this service?

95 Pathy VG30E 5MT Decided to tackle that exhaust leak at the flange between my y-pipe and mid-pipe. Yes, the leak that rusted the hole in my floorboard! Anyway, the bolts are so rusted I’m just going to sawzall them off tomorrow (couldn’t even get a wrench on it - it’s just one giant blob of rust. I bought a Nissan gasket for this exhaust connection at the stealership, so I’m hoping the flange is still okay to put this thing in. It sure seems like a large enough gap that the gasket won’t do spit. If everything checks out, I was just wondering if anyone recommends using any sealant - like RTV copper when I put the gasket in.

Thanks for the input C-B. Taking the cam sprocket bolts off was the easy part. Getting them back on and torqued to spec without spinning the cams - was difficult. Seems like either make your own tool - like Startibartfast talked about, or remove the valve cover and rockers to access the notch to secure the cam sprocket Might be worth having a set of cam sprocket clamps - if only for piece of mind.

If I were to do this job again, I would certainly consider something along those lines Slartibartfast. While I feel pretty sure I have the cam bolts set in there well, I really wasn't able to get the torque wrench to click at ~85 ft-lb without spinning the cam. Since this was the first time I have taken the cam sprockets off, there was naturally a level of anxiety about this repair. It's comforting to know I can bounce this stuff off you guys before tearing into this stuff!

Ok, got everything buttoned down, and I'm running with no problems. Had some coolant leaking around the thermostat housing and had to redo the gasket seal, but this was probably due to assembling it incorrectly - the FSM does state that there is a TOP on the outer housing. Looking back, I think if I were to do this job again, I would probably zip tie the old T-belt to the cams to re-torque the cam sprocket bolts. I've read a couple of innovative ideas on how to hold the cam sprockets down, but none of them are ideal. Using air on the cam sprocket bolts with a socket extension through the holes of the cam sprocket is simply an accident waiting to happen for someone. For weekend wrench warriors like me I feel like this job (holding down the cam sprocket) has not been thoroughly addressed - but I will say, after fiddling with it, that turning the cam off mark is not such a big deal, as you can always re-position it on mark. But like RC says - you definitely don't want to spin that sucker!!

I've broken 2 door handles, trying to open the door when it was frozen shut. For the uninitiated, if it's below zero outside, don't yank on those plastic door handles!!!

Yeah, did the crank seal and the thermostat. Giving the RTV sealant a chance to harden before I put the coolant back in. The water pump and tensioner were done when I did the T-belt a few months ago. Buttoning it up today. Hopefully, another small success story.

well got the cam oil seals in, but the hardest part was re-torquing the cam bolts. Very hard to do, even with air, to keep the cam from spinning. Each cam sprocket moved off of the timing marks when I set the bolt, but I just moved it back into position. This was the part I was worried about. Took a lot of effort to keep it locked down. Hopefully I won't have to go back in there for a while. I installed the T-belt, and gave her a couple of rotations to make sure they are back on mark. My teeth are 40/43, and the cam marks are pretty close. It's getting dark so I'll button everything up tomorrow and hope for the best. Thanks for the input RC.

Makes sense to pull bolt (have air) with old TB tightened. Makes sense. Thanks RC. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Don't see how I could rest something on the head. Looks like I have to remove the back timing cover plate! How do you take that off before removing the cam sprockets?

Thanks RC - Makes sense. I'll probably keep the old belt on to put it back on and torque it to spec. Not sure I want to remove the entire upper intake plenum to get to the cam notch. Just worried I'll spin that sucker and give myself another headache to deal with. Those oil seals should arrive today. I'll probably jump in there tomorrow and assess your method when I get there. Appreciate the input.

First, Wishing everyone on here a Happy Holiday season. 95 M/T Pathfinder - Some of you may recall I had to swap my engine due to a catastrophic oil pump failure. Everything has been smooth thus far, but now I’ve developed a troubling oil leak. It’s been difficult to determine exactly where this is coming from, but it is definitely from the LEFT (drivers side) as I can see the oil is dripping on my alternator. Did all the easy stuff - PCV valve, and tightened down the left valve cover bolts - at least those I could access - boy, those bolts were really loose! However, this has not stopped the leak. So, now I’m suspecting the LEFT cam seal. I’ve already changed the timing belt, water pump and tensioner, but neglected to do the cam and crank seals. Hindsight is 20/20. Ordered my cam seals and getting ready to tear her down. My question is simply - how do you hold the camshaft sprocket in place to remove the cam bolt? I’m not interested in buying some expensive cam sprocket clamp for one time use, and I have seen Dr. Bill’s write-up: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23280-replacing-the-timing-belt-adding-an-at-cooler/page-2?hl=%20timing%20%20belt where he uses angled metal bars to wedge the cams sprockets. Seems a bit…uhh…primitive (although it seemed to work for him just fine). I was wondering what other suggestions are out there from the horde about holding the cam sprocket in place to pull the bolt. A little concerned about spinning that sucker around.

I'm running 31" Mastercraft Courser AXT's. Excellent for mixed driving. Not the cheapest tire, but can recommend them after a year on the vehicle. I'd certainly buy them again.

I had the same problem with temp gauge (and fuel gauge). I was lucky - I just tightened the screw on the back of the dash and it worked fine. Later on the temp gauge started fluctuating at idle, and I cleaned up the water temp sender and the problem went away.