micahfelker

Went for a little drive yesterday. Really starting to like this tan rig. Best $600 bucks ever spent Also threw some led pods on the subie! The housings are really bad at throwing light far enough to see safely so these should help out a lot. Can’t go wrong for 13 bucks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Post pics too! Can't wait to see how they look!

I would weld them on after you bolt them up. For some reason having sliders just bolted makes me feel uneasy haha

It’s been raining quite a bit here lately and the sun finally poked its head out after I got home from work, so I decided to make the best of it. I’ve had some led lights lying around that I forgot I ordered and I decided to throw them in today. I’m not sure if I’ve mentioned it on here, but both the red pathfinder and the Subaru have been 100% switched over to LED’s (on the exterior at least). However, the license plate lights I had in the Pathfinder were longer than the original ones and would fit back in, so I just gorilla taped them in place. I had been meaning to switch them out, and ordered better ones awhile ago but just never got around to throwing them in. The better LED’s made a HUGE difference, and are more than twice as bright as the last ones. Anyway, the tan Pathfinder didn’t have working plate lights when I bought it, so I threw the old ones that I took out of the red one in. I also put new LED tail lights, backup lights, and marker lights into the tan one as well. They were lying around so I figured why not. New plate lights on the red rig: Old ones from the red one now in the tan rig: As far as the difference goes, the pictures speak for themselves. If any of you want links for the lights I’ll gladly throw them up! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wouldn’t bother with those kayak mounts. The Rola rack you’ve got is great at hauling kayaks! Pretty much the only thing I ever use my rack for is carrying kayaks. The main reason I bought the rola rack is so I could put 3 of them on the roof at once. I’ve had two on the roof back and forth to glacier a few times and took 2 all the way to Canada as well, so you shouldn’t have any problems going anywhere with them up there. Just invest 5 bucks on one of those 4 packs of ratchet straps at Walmart and you’ll be good to go! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree, except they look even worse in black!

Sounds just like a 350z lol

That ended up being it. One of the quick tappers I put on my marker light was pretty caked with mud so I just cleaned it off and hooked it back up and wrapped it in tape this time.

I don't have any resistors

I bought new fuses and sure enough, as soon as I flick the lights on the fuse blows. It's the marker lights, plate lights, dash lights, and tail lights. Now I just need to figure out what the heck is shorting out and how to fix it. I don't have trailer wiring.

Alright so I have a problem. When I was driving home after wheeling tonight all of a sudden all my dash lights shut off. Check engine light stayed lit and radio stayed lit but everything else just completely black. When I got home I left my lights on and walked around the car and every single light was also shut off except for the headlights and the fog lights. No side markers, no tail lights, no plate lights. When I step on the brake all 3 brake lights come on. Turn signals also still work. What the heck could be the problem? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy 4x4 day guys!! Make sure to go hit the trails today if you can!

Not sure why I never saw this thread, awesome writeup man, and AMAZING pictures!! My folks live in Woodinville so I'm over in the area quite a bit if you ever want to go wheelin!

I that case I would probably go with something cheaper. A steel wheel is a steel wheel, and it looks like you could save a lot of money getting some online. Pretty much anything with a 6x5.5 bolt pattern will work

I agree, they look nice. What's the price per wheel of them? If you're looking for basic steelies like that you can get them for like 40 bucks a wheel from summit

Okay yeah that makes total sense, not sure why I didn't think of it haha (for the connectors that is). Still not quite sure I understand the wiring diagram though

Missing the plugs for the adjustable projectors on both sides and missing the power plug on one side. And I don’t have a switch for the adjustable motors either Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Let me snap a pic real quick

Where do you get the switch and the plus for the headlights? Mine are missing a lot of the plugs for both the adjustable motors and the power for the headlight itself.

I was not expecting your license plate bracket to look like that lol

It basically connects the back ends of where the control arms mount so they can't pull apart from each other, it doesn't prevent or effect suspension travel.

Have you checked if it's thrown any codes? It's probably your ignition coil (In the distributor). I'd be willing to bet money. I've had this exact issue multiple times before and replacing the distributor has always fixed it.

I just posted this in a different thread but I'll paste it here too since it applies: Here's my 2 cents. Lifting your rig is not going to devalue it at all, and any true car guy doesn't give a darn about value anyway, it's about what the car means to you. Lifting it is not gonna just make all your parts stop working all of a sudden or lead them to break more often than just driving the car is. As long as you do everything right you will have no problems. Increasing control arm angle theoretically wears it out faster but I've never had any problems with mine. As long as the angle is still within operating limits (in other words, as long as you don't use spacers) your cv's will still be within the limit they were designed to work at. I've said the same thing in another thread somewhere but basically you can put however much lift you want in the front as long as the spring still fits in the original strut. The cv axles were designed to work within the full range of suspension travel all the way up to full extension, so even if you could theoretically fit a spring in that held the strut all the way topped out all the time the axles would still work in 4wd fine. Of course you'd have other problems then but that's purely for example. You don't experience any problems until you add a spacer into the mix. Since a spacer goes on top of the strut it allows the suspension to drop to full extension PLUS however much the spacer adds, which allows the control arm and axles and whatnot to drop past the range in which they were meant to operate within. For example, if you have a 2" spacer on top of your strut, at full droop your wheel will be able to extend the full length of the topped out strut plus another 2 inches past, which is 2 inches lower than the axles were made to operate at. For the rear you can basically do whatever you want until you reach around 6" which is where you start running into driveshaft issues. Lifting your car isn't really gonna affect it negatively at all, it'll only benefit. You'll have more suspension travel, better handling and a better ride, better articulation, and have a way cooler car in general that can get places it couldn't before. When it comes down to it, lifting your car is making it way better, not worse.

I would avoid spacers. And Duratracs are made by Goodyear. I have the 10ply version which I'd definitely recommend over the lower rating. I've heard of the lower rated ones having problems with sidewalls when airing down, but I've had no issues

Here's my 2 cents. Find a new mechanic or ditch 'em altogether. Lifting your rig is not going to devalue it at all, and any true car guy doesn't give a darn about value anyway, it's about what the car means to you. Lifting it is not gonna just make all your parts stop working all of a sudden or lead them to break more often than just driving the car is. As long as you do everything right you will have no problems. Increasing control arm angle theoretically wears it out faster but I've never had any problems with mine. As long as the angle is still within operating limits (in other words, as long as you don't use spacers) your cv's will still be within the limit they were designed to work at. I've said the same thing in another thread somewhere but basically you can put however much lift you want in the front as long as the spring still fits in the original strut. The cv axles were designed to work within the full range of suspension travel all the way up to full extension, so even if you could theoretically fit a spring in that held the strut all the way topped out all the time the axles would still work in 4wd fine. Of course you'd have other problems then but that's purely for example. You don't experience any problems until you add a spacer into the mix. Since a spacer goes on top of the strut it allows the suspension to drop to full extension PLUS however much the spacer adds, which allows the control arm and axles and whatnot to drop past the range in which they were meant to operate within. For example, if you have a 2" spacer on top of your strut, at full droop your wheel will be able to extend the full length of the topped out strut plus another 2 inches past, which is 2 inches lower than the axles were made to operate at. For the rear you can basically do whatever you want until you reach around 6" which is where you start running into driveshaft issues. Lifting your car isn't really gonna affect it negatively at all, it'll only benefit. You'll have more suspension travel, better handling and a better ride, better articulation, and have a way cooler car in general that can get places it couldn't before. When it comes down to it, lifting your car is making it way better, not worse.