micahfelker

I would go with the kyb gr2's. Part numbers 335015 and 335016.

Well the lift seems to have disappeared from BDS's website. Bummer. I'm just gonna end up going with the AC springs and KYB struts and shocks, along with Warn hubs. I'm also thinking about getting one of fleury's spacers from sfcreation.com (just 1") to go in the front to keep it level after the springs settle. It got me thinking: what if I combined the max spacer lift (2.5" front and 3" rear) with the AC coils to get high enough to clear 35's? I doubt it would be possible or safe to do without a subframe and panhard drop, along with longer brake lines, most of which I can't afford or don't have the means to do. What do you guys think? I'll probably stick with the AC coils and the 1" front spacer.

Okay so I'm going to order the springs as soon as I get home today, along with kyb front struts, manual hubs, rear shocks, and possibly some 2" wheel spacers as well. What rear shocks do you guys reccomend with a 2" lift? Also should I replace the strut top hat and bearings as well?

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Yeah I had the same exact thought. It's probably just not a picture of the actual springs. I'm probably going to end up trying them since they're so much cheaper than any of the other options, so once I get them I'll definitely throw up some pictures. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been looking at (or trying to find) lifts for my '96 r50 for quite awhile now and I came across something that I haven't seen anywhere on the forums. Here it is: http://bds-suspension.com/product?kid=799H It looks to me like the springs are shorter than the ac lift just going off the pictures, but it's much cheaper which is a huge plus for me as a college student haha. Anyway, do any of you know if these are any good? Anyone have any experience with them? I was thinking about getting them at the same KYB struts and shocks on Amazon, considering they're any good. I'd also get some warn hubs. https://www.amazon.com/KYB-335015-Excel-G-Gas-Strut/dp/B000C44C44/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1480618509&vehicle=1996-67-893------------1-0&sr=1-11&ymm=1996%3Anissan%3Apathfinder https://www.amazon.com/KYB-343388-Excel-G-Gas-Shock/dp/B000EQCHBU/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Nissan%7C67&Model=Pathfinder%7C893&Year=1996%7C1996&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive https://www.amazon.com/WARN-29091-Premium-Manual-Hubs/dp/B000CQDPIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486886096&sr=8-1&keywords=warn+manual+hubs+28+spline I'm running 265/75r16 tires right now, and I'll hopefully be able to step up to 33's after I figure out what to do for a lift. I just want my rig to sit higher and get rid of that awful rake i have right now with my 20 year old springs and struts haha. Also I'm sorry there's probably a million threads on this but I figured I'd mention it while asking about the BDS springs. Is there anything else besides what I've listed that I should get or replace when I do the lift? Also let me know if you know anything about the BDS springs. Thanks!

Good to have you back! I think I follow you on instagram haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For the last couple days my alarm has been going off every single time I unlock the driver side door with my key. I never got a remote so the key is the only way to open the car. It only does it on the driver side door though, so I've been just using the passenger door to unlock it. When the alarm goes off it refuses to turn off no matter where I put the key, so every time I forget and unlock my driver door the alarm goes off and I have to wait like 2 or 3 minutes before it shuts off and I can open it from the passenger side. I keep a wrench in my car now so every time it happens I can disconnect the battery to make it shut up instead of waiting for it to shut off. Does anyone know what the problem might be? I'm thinking about just pulling out the fuse for the alarm, but I'm not sure if anything else important is wired to it. Let me know if you guys can help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just pulled off all the plastic outside parts of the rear bumper but I can't get the metal part off because it's bent on one side right where the bolts are and I have no way of accessing them. I may use this opportunity to build a custom rear bumper or just replace it with on from pick and pull, but I can't do either without getting this one off. Anyone have any suggestions? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I love that bumper! Is it custom or did you get it somewhere?

Kind of bringing up an old thread here but has anyone tried to run glasspacks?

Are you in the bay area? I think I've seen you driving around a few times around s. park victoria drive and near 680.

Some pictures I took up in the hills last week Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome to the pathfinder crew! Your pictures are really great and so is your rig. Those 15x12's look sick as well. Are you actually driving on them or did you just test fit it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Personally I would use synthetic 5w30 or 10w30. Synthetic seems to be better quality and more reliable. Do you do a lot of driving on dirt or dusty roads? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oops! I clicked on the same one twice. Meant to include this one Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Took a couple pictures of the pathy last week, an I thought I'd put some up on here for you guy to see! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had it aligned pretty recently, but not since I put on the new wheels and tires. I will definitely do that and see if it helps. Thanks guys (: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay so I recently put on some new American racing wheels with slightly larger tires than stock. The wheels have the same bolt pattern but are lug-centric, not hub-centric. I've noticed that when I'm on the highway the steering wheel will shake/vibrate at certain speeds. Sometimes it does it an sometimes it doesn't. Seems to happen in the 60 mph range, but I haven't really gone much faster. The wheels are balanced (at least as far as I know... I bought them with the tires mounted but they did have weights on them). Is it shaking because the wheels aren't hub-centric? If so, is it going to be an issue? I like the wheels but I don't want anything to happen because I'm not taking proper precautions. Let me know if you guys have any insight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just got back from a mission trip to Guatemala, so I haven't been able to look yet. I'll definitely be searching Craigslist but if anyone finds something let me know! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I copped a set of four American racing wheels today from a friend for $75, an offer I couldn't pass up. The tires on there right now are complete garbage and are old, worn out, and cracking. Anyone have suggestions for a good set of 31x10.5r16 (or similar size) tire? I need new ones pretty fast and I don't have much money. Thanks! (: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

jyeager, haha I doubt I could find a deal that good around my area. Even if I could I don't really want to replace the whole thing if it doesn't need it. Rather spend the money on a lift, you know? Anyway, right now I have two ideas/options of what to do: 1) just leave it how it is and forget about it unless something else goes wrong or 2) cut off all the piping behind the muffler and weld on a turn down. What would you guys recommend? Would there be cautions or benefits to one or the other? I want the best sound I can get without taking off the muffler. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Kyle, thanks for the input. It's the part after the resonator that came off, so it's still pointing out the back, not up at the floor, even though it is kind of up under there where it's dumping now. How necessary is the resonator? I was actually considering doing exactly what you and 0metra did: cutting off all the pipe behind the muffler and welding on a turndown or side dump, or just leaving it straight. Idk. What would you recommend? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RoguePathy, yeah they're pretty strict with that kind of thing. I'm not too worried about it though because 1) I got it smogged last year so I have a couple more years until it needs to go in again, 2) by then it will probably have bigger issues I'll need to deal with, and 3) the part that came off was after the resonator so I don't think it changes much. I guess we'll just have to wait and see! jyeager, thanks for the insight. I'll probably leave it like this for now then unless I find one at a scrap yard for a good deal. Was there an issue that came up after 6 months or is that just how long you waited to replace it?

So my rig has been making this annoying rattling noise when it idles for awhile and I finally decided to check it out. Then I realized that the tailpipe was completely rusted out, which was what was causing it to rattle at low rpm. After taking the picture I bumped it an it compel tell fell off! Better than on the road, I guess. Anyway, I was surprised by how much of a difference it made in the sound. I went for a drive on some back roads in the hills behind my house, and the exhaust time is much deeper and more throaty sounding now. It sounds awesome!!! I think I'm just gonna leave it like this and not bother fixing it, since it doesn't affect much besides making it sound really cool. Is there any reason that I should consider welding it back on or replacing it instead? On a side note, here are a few pictures from my drive (: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk