rc_cola_j

I'm pretty new at this too, so I am not up on all the different products available. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Carb cleaner on occasion or a degreaser available at local auto parts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You and I are thinking along the same lines. I was planning on replacing the lines this weekend........I did look at them today....the vacuum line on the manifold side of the BPT valve seems to have a restrictor in it, sot of looks and feels like a little ball bearing, but it has a tiny hole in it....it is passing a vacuum signal. Q..is this normal? Could this be a mistake that a mechanic made on previous work? Also....there is a metal line running from the EGR back to the bottom of the BPT valve. Is it worth a try to take this off and spray some seafoam inside both the EGR and the BPT valve? Seafoam? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is it a negative back pressure or Positive type? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't actually know what component of the EGR system is the issue. I just know disconnecting the Vacuum line between the BPT and EGR valve eliminates the rough idle problem. I'm trying to understand the EGR system and have been doing some reading. I came across and article (http://www.aces.edu/~parmega/efi/egr.txt)......in it it says that there are a few different types of systems based on how the BPT works Question.....which type would apply to the R50 Pathfinders? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I'm doing a lot of reading online......how do I properly diagnose my EGR issue? What's going on is that once the engine warms up it begins to 'lope' at idle......as though it has a small vacuum leak. If I disconnect and plug the vacuum lines between the EGR valve and the EGR Backpressure Transducer. It runs fine. How do I tell if it is the EGR valve itself sticking open or if it is the EGR BPT? Or is it an Aspect of the EGR? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm getting sad. I can't get to it for a little while......can probably live with a rough idle until then, or just disconnect it. In the mean time I'll put some penetrating oil on the threads and such Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sigh. Guess I have another project to add to my list. It seems like the EGR would be a be a time consuming thing to remove. Eh? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone know a good way to clean an EGR valve without removing it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In an effort to diagnose my problem (and on the advice of a friend) I took some spare wires with alligator clip ends and re-grounded the body to the negative terminal, the engine to the negative terminal, and the engine to the body. I'm keeping my fingers crossed but I haven't thrown any of the codes since. Am going to give it some time though. Perhaps all I needed to do was clean up my ground connections. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Very nice! I like it! I am mounting mine today. Pics to follow Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are there many Vancouver Island or Gulf Island members on here? I'm on Salt Spring, would like to meet some other Pathfinder owners around. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sweet! Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where are you ordering your LED dash lights? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you post pics? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So there is a service notice out for the o2 sensors on my model year. It says to replace the sensors and also flash the ECU with updated software. I went back through the service records for my pathfinder, one o2 sensor was replaced in 2006.....but no mention of whether the ECU was updated. I called the dealership on the mainland where the vehicle was serviced in the past. They said the only way to tell would be to do a full diagnostic for $125!! This would tell them what software version is running and potentially what's going on.......but it may also be $125 to tell me not much. There has to be an easier way. Is there an easier way? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's like night and day to be honest....however Both my from struts and rear shocks were dead when I bought the pathy......don't have much to compare it to in terms of stock. I was planning on getting Fleury's spacers for the rear to improve the rake.......I'm hesitant to do the front for fear of wearing the CV's. When I have $$ I will look into the best approach in more detail. Somehow managed to swindle a 21" cree curved led light bar from a friend this morning.....brand new in box for $70!!! Question is, where to mount it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm kind of limited to my gas choices where I live. It's a small island with one gas station. The 140 and 160 codes are "no voltage" on bank 1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 2.....both after the catalytic converter. Same goes for 138 and 158, except it is a "high voltage" problem. Still not sure what is going on here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wish I had thought to take some before photos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, had the suspension done. OME medium duty in the rear, OME heavy duty on the front with Rancho shocks and struts. So happy with the lift gained and the ride quality! Didn't have the money for spacers, but will probably go that route in the spring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My vehicle is a 2000 SE I have intermittently over the last 2 weeks been throwing two different sets of codes. It's either P0140+P0160......which I will clear using an OBD2 reader. I cal then drive around for a few days then I will have those come back or throw a different set of P0138+P0158. Clear them and drive around some more and one of the two sets come back again. What's going on here? What are the chances that two post catalytic 02 sensors would go at once? Could it be a grounding issue or exhaust leak? Will these sensors affect fuel economy? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok. Sweet. I am going to do a lot more research and some replanning. Thanks for all the advice!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, I saw the same thing noted. What I am curious about is whether or not this bracket is required for the struts or the springs? I am just doing the springs on mine. I can't figure out what this fitting kit is either. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just pulling the trigger on ordering new springs for my 2000 SE. Am going with OME springs. Just curios what exactly the 'fitting kit' (SMP638) does or is for? Is it for fitting the springs or the OME struts? So, if I am just going for the springs, do I need to order this? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk