rc_cola_j

Hey all. So I was bragging to my mechanically inclined buddy about how I just rolled over to 300,000k. He started going on about carbon buildup in high mileage engines......he is suggesting that the best way to clean the carbon buildup is to suck some water up through a vacuum line and 'steam cleaning' the internal workings. This was a new idea to me. So I googled. Apparently some say it works wonders, some say it's better to suck seafoam in over water, and some say it is a myth. I thought I'd put it to the forum and see what you all thought of this method? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Today I rolled over to 300,000km. I gave my pathfinder a wash and an oil change to celebrate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will eagerly await! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fleury.....what's your ETA for getting back up and running? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a similar issue last fall. Shut-down and wouldn't start......replaced the distributor. Worked great for a week then it died again and had a no start issue. Turned out to be a faulty camshaft position sensor. Can you see if the ECU is showing any codes? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are there many R50 owners here running OMEmu struts? Would like to hear your feedback Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1 or 2 years eh? Yeah, I would say longer then that would be nice too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had my front struts replaced when I bought my pathfinder last spring. Had a mechanic do it, he said it was a factory equivalent replacement. Well, I have blown said replacement 3 times since. Each time the swap in a new one under warranty.......which is fine, but overall I'm not happy with the ride in the front. What upset you so badly about the KYBs? They seem to be half the price of the OME......still, I want to make the right decision here

Just wanted to see what sort of feedback you all have on KYB GR2 or Old Man Emu as options for front struts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay. Thanks for the help. Will keep you posted.

The filter is tucked up above the skid plate. I'll pull the skid plate off in the morning and have a look. Once tapped in, what is a good "range" for the oil pressure to be in?

Where is best to "T" in a line or hook the oil pressure gauge up on a R50 3.3v6? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've noticed that my "idiot light" is flickering more and more after start up. When it started a months ago it was less than a second.....now it does it for a good 3-5 seconds. How do I go about testing the oil pump? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Seems to be really good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's actually quite helpful. It tells me it should really just "kiss" it open Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stuck thermostat? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup, that plunger on the right is your throttle opener, it holds the throttle slightly open at startup......it's another one of those things the repair manual says not to adjust. I did notice that my throttle is sticking shut now. Will tweak it a bit and see what happens Thanks for helping. I'm going to fiddle with it some more Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have a throttle opener on yours? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If neither work, I'll go to a dealership Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Precise1. I'm going to try each approach and see how it drives and runs. Have completed option 1 this morning she seems to be running well. I'm taking all of my tools with me so I can readjust to option 2 after a couple hundred km Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's not the fast idle cam. It's the throttle stop screw.....the manuals say nothing more about this screw than "Do Not Adjust" And yes.....the method for setting the idle speed is very straight forward. My question was how to adjust the throttle stop screw back to where it should be so that I can continue on and set the idle properly afterwards Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, I'm using Tapatalk.....I thought all that was enetered.. 2000 Pathfinder SE. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sooo, I had a friend of mine offered to give me a tune-up and a glance over before going on a long road trip in exchange for venison. I took him up on it. Well, you know that little stop screw on the throttle body that the service manuals say to NEVER TOUCH.....he touched it. Long story short.......vehicle is running and idling properly for now.....in fact my EGR issue disappeared....., but I'm wanting to make sure it is set properly. What is the proper procedure??? I have come across two different methods in my googling.... #1 unplug TPS, bring idle up to 600-650rpm with the stop screw. Then bring base idle up to 700 +/- 50 rpm with IAC adjustment. #2 unplug TPS. Adjust stop screw until it 'just kisses' the throttle......adjust base idle up to 700 +- 50rpm it's IAC adjustment. Which (if any) is right? I have a week to figure this out. I really appreciate you all helping me out. I have learned a lot since buying my pathfinder and joining this forum. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This sounds exactly like the trouble I was having. Thought it was a misfire with no code....replaced plugs, wires and distributor. No luck. Turns out it's the EGR. I disconnected vacuum line to the EGR valve and plugged the line with a roofing nail. Problem went away. Hooked it back up, problem came back. Try it and let me know what happens. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk