Soccerstudd5

My idler pulley seized on me last week and burnt up so I'm currently running no AC in July in OK, which is a no go. I went to AutoZone, O-Reilly, NAPA, Advanced Auto Parts, and even Nissan, and they all pull up the same part. The same one that's shown in the Haynes book too. But it's different from what I have that seized on me. I haven't had a chance to get to a junk yard yet, and I know a picture would help out a lot on this, so I'll get one up soon, but does anyone have one laying around or have any options on where I could find the part I'm looking for? The main problem is that the hole in the middle is too big, and I'm not sure I can get a bigger bolt in through the bracket the tensioner is on. TIA!

I found a website by a member here that may be helpful if you're looking into a SAS. It's www.nissannut.com He's posted all kind of projects on his site with pictures and explanations of the progress as well as a spreadsheet of the parts used and his cost. Could be really helpful in knowing what you're getting into and getting a parts list with some things you might easily overlook.

That's a beautiful front axle. Can't wait to see the kit...

Wow! Looks like you have a hobby to keep you busy for a while. Looks like good work, I'm going to enjoy watching the progress!

Looks good. Hope that little hatch works out well. Did you consider a larger one or even making the back end flip or or even making it a drawer that pulls out? I remember someone building one with a drawer for tools and such a while back, don't remember who it was though... Either way, nice work!

#1 complaint, and really only complaint of any substance, about my console is no cup holders...

AK just shrunk the rear doors down to about 18" IIRC and used that to make the whole thing shorter. But that was just one intermediate step he made in the long run of chopping the whole thing and tubing it... his pathy is what started my interest and inspired me for mods. He did some sick work!!

No, the fronts are quite a bit larger than the backs

Bosch are probably the best, but they are pricey, I just got some Rain-x and used to have ANCO, they are a great upgrade from those...

Thanks 5523, that's what I was curious of.

I wouldn't mind knowing the gearing on the 5 speed behind the V6, I've been curious for a while and haven't been able to find the numbers on it.

Someone earlier this summer (I think) posted some pictures of their chop top pathy, can't remember if it was a two or four door though.... Maybe someone else will remember it better and chime in to who it was

Ok thanks, I'll check that and see if that's where to problem is.

I don't think we ever bled the ABS, talking about the actuator? I was told it was on the passenger frame rail under the rear door, that right? And other than that, that's the order I went in. I'll check that, and yes it does stiffen up when pumped, but then after so many pumps it gets soft again. Someone suggested to me the booster has a leak??? I dunno, will do some more checking this weekend and see what we can find out.

Let me start by saying I have a 94 with 4 wheel disc. Changed the front pads and afterwards I had a soft pedal. It still seemed to stop ok, but the while stopped the pedal can be pressed all the way to the floor with very little resistance. Went ahead and changed the rear too, and bled all four numerous times, and same thing. So I put on a new master cylinder (primed it first) and now the same thing. Bled all the brakes again numerous times. I think I went through a whole container of brake fluid and am now getting the new clean fluid out when I bleed em. Still stops fine, just has that extra play that makes me a little worried. Also, the ABS light has been coming on and off randomly for about a month or two. Took it to a shop and he said it might be in the ABS system but he doesn't have the equipment for imports this far back. Any ideas?

You should be able to do that, but with the same concerns as a normal lift. The TM lift is just a bunch of drop brackets that keeps the stock suspension angles but lowers if from the rest of the vehicle. I would get rid of the rear spring blocks and get longer springs for the back, personally.

What would the purpose of removable sliders be, just out of curiosity?

Hahahahahahahaha! ^x2

^^^^ X2! That's a great pic, and are you going to be putting up anymore pics? It's a great one, but like fleury said, JUST ONE?!?!?

FREE? I'll give ya $10 for it, lol Nice find though, do you have a a different bumper or just put a winch mount on with your stock bumper?

The more changes you do, the easier you start to find the threads. Last oil change took me under a minute to get the new filter on...

I'm looking at doing the same thing, hopefully this summer, and have found people who said that with a 3" BL, there's no need to do any modification to the firewall. That's the route I'm going to go. If you get to it before me, post some pics and help for any problems you run into. Good luck!

Mine was randomly not starting for a while, just a clicking sound.... played with the relays on the passenger fender, wiggling and pushing them all in, and haven't had any problems since. Not sure which one is actually for the starter though. Hope that helps.

I got the soft 8's for the price and how they looked.

Replaced front shocks and waiting a couple weeks to see if that does the trick. (Be home again for spring break in a couple weeks) Cupping was about every other and seemed pretty even. The shop probably found play in the front end and made an assumption and gave me a price. We did test the play when we did the shocks and it's marginal. Probably a little more slop than should be but not enough to make a definite diagnosis. If there's no uneven wear on the tire I may just saw shocks solved it. If/when tire wears uneven or starts cupping, we'll repack the bearings. Thanks for the help all! As of now I consider it solved, unless cupping starts again.