V8path

Well now I'm really baffled. I removed the ignition relay and thought to crank it over. IT RAN!!!. btw the acc relay and the ign relay are identical. I can only think it would run due to (as I'll have to go back and look at what I did 15 years ago to confirm for sure) that the (earlier 4.3L which is now the) LT1 PCM was wired separate from the Nissan circuit, but I'm pretty sure whatever I used for a power source for the LT1 PCM came off a existing Nissan circuit. Otherwise, why would the engine not crank over when everything else went dead as described in the opening post. I checked the ignition switch and played with the connections and the contacts, which are clean and firmly soldered. No visible faults/cracks etc. There was some play however between the back of casing where the contacts are soldered, and the main tumbler casing, but when jiggling it and tugging on the wires, contact was not broken (had a test light attached while I did this). The key however is loose inside the key slot, but operates as it should in all positions, and it didn't affect the current flow. I'm baffled

My reference to a circuit breaker was from what I found on a wiring diagram. Not sure how accurate it was, and I've not been able to find that (at least not yet). On a visual inspection, the fusible links at the battery terminal look to be in good shape for 28 - 29 years. Will definitely have a 2nd look and test them if there's anything suspect. Hoping someone has some intel/experience with the ignition relay?

All good points to consider. I have one more, and hopefully someone has experience with the wiring circuitry to know if this is a more likely source of the problem. The re and re of the positive cable is the basis for looking at this. There is a ignition relay in the circuit (its location is supposedly - from the diagrams) near the fuse block. As there has been a consistent ability to re-start after re and re the positive cable, it was suggested to me that it could be a sticking relay that gets re-set when the power is removed, then reintroduced by the re and re of the positive cable. What do you think?

Hey Hawairish, thanks for the input. I’ve thought that it could be a faulty ignition switch, but I was hoping to really understand the logic of that before I start to take things apart or change parts? The question I have now, is why the ignition switch re-set when the positive cable was removed and reconnected? Does that (the positive cable re-connect) have some impact as to the connections at the ignition switch?

FYI my 88 was originally a 5 speed manual. There are some electronic component (relays and switches) variations between an auto and manual trans. Also after more scouring of the various wiring diagrams, I couldn't find a second diagram that definitively shows a circuit breaker, so that's still a major mystery as to whether there is one or not in an 88 Pathfinder? Am hoping someone has a good understanding of the main circuits, as I'm pretty frustrated at this point. It will run perfectly, than without warning, just cut out.

Looking for help with a troubling electrical problem in an 88 Pathfinder. My Pathfinder has LT1 engine swapped into it, which was preceded by a Chevy 4.3L some 15 years ago (without this type of problem). So I’m thinking chances are that this is pointing to the original Nissan circuit? The main electrical system has been shutting down intermittently, with the exception that (when everything else is dead) the headlights, hazard lights, dash lights (but no dash functions) and interior lights still work. The starter will not crank, no heater fan, no power windows, nothing… This will happen without warning while driving, or sometimes when coming to a stop, and happens whether hot or cold. Sometimes when the power shuts down, I would be able to immediately restart or restart after a few minutes of trying. When the power doesn't “self reactivate” after a few minutes, I removed and reconnecting the positive battery cable (and would hear relays clicking), the power would come back on and I was able to start the engine again. It would then either die again immediately, or within minutes, or it would run for 20 – 60 minutes without issue. This has been repeating itself for a couple of weeks now. The good thing is that worst case I have been able to restart after re & re the positive battery cable. The ground cables are new and run direct from the battery ground to the body, and a second separate ground cable from the battery to the engine, so don’t think it is a ground issue. I'm guessing this might or is a main circuit fault, and after searching for an 88 Pathfinder wiring diagram, I found a number of differing diagrams. One of them shows a “circuit breaker” in the ignition/starting circuit, so I’m wondering if this is the problem? Anyone know anything about this part, or whether there is even one in an 88 Pathfinder, and if so, where is it (have not been able to find a circuit breaker in the majority of the different wiring diagrams I’ve found)? Also, if it is a circuit breaker issue, it could that the breaker is faulty, or is there something causing the breaker to cut power? Would a faulty (key) ignition switch cause an intermittent shut down of the entire electrical system? The ignition switch is going on 29 years old.

The T56 upgrade will come a bit later as that's a major conversion (which is not very common) so there's more research before moving ahead with that. Been keeping my eyes out for a good priced T56 or T56 Magnum. I've started on the doubler, and the plan is to get it working with the 4L60E that's currently in the truck. That requires a few special parts/modifications, as the 4L60E has a custom 30 spline output shaft, and machining on the input shaft and related parts of front reduction of the doubler is needed. Am going to twin stick the NP205, and have started the tear down and will be looking a replacing any worn parts, gaskets while I'm at it. Am also almost ready to do the "coil on plug" (no more distributor) conversion on the LT1 in the next couple months. So lots in the works, but finding or making time to work on this has been a challenge.

Am into the wiper maintenance finally. The linkage was in pretty good shape. Cleaned and lubed the pivots/bushings etc. With the wiper arms removed and having no drag from the arms, there is now a noticeable difference in speed between hi and low. Will pull the motor and clean as suggested and see what happens. Am guessing the 28 plus year old motor might be getting weak?

Are you looking to change the whole turn signal unit, or just the bulb. Your post could mean either. If its the bulb, after the unit is unbolted from bumper, the orange plastic lens can be popped/pried off with a small screwdriver, and the bulb can be removed by pressing towards the back lightly, and turning counter clockwise. If its the unit you're looking to remove, there are 2 screws holding it to the bumper. Just remove the screws and the light unit will come out.

If nothing is working, this would point to a main circuit. Have you checked the main ground wire for the instrument cluster? Do the dash lights work - not sure if that would be on the same circuit?

Given its the original wiper motor, at best it needs a cleaning, and at worst, a new or replacement motor. Wouldn't be surprised if the linkage probably needs a major cleaning and lubing, and replacement of worn parts. Its been crazy busy as I'm also in the final stages of replacing the entire ignition system (PCM and all related hardware) with a programmable system (going from distributor to coil on plug) for the LT1, but I'll have to make time for the wipers in the next couple weeks before the fall rainy season hits. Thanks to all the guys (or gals?) for the help. I'm a bit surprised there's been more than 1 or 2 responses to this, but then I suspect given the WD21's are in the 25-30 year range, I'm not the only one experiencing wiper issues. Will update with results when the re and re is done.

Problem solved. Found a used amplifier and I now have normal and fast, and intermittent wipers. The fast however, is not as fast as I remember. Would this be a sign of the wiper motor's age? Its the original motor, which is going on 29 years.

Cleaned it the best I could, and plugged it back in. No improvement, so I guess it's find something close on CL, or off to the wrecker which is an hour and half away.

Took the amplifier relay apart and this is what it looks like. Some corrosion (which may be the cause of the problem), but no visible signs of cracked solder. I'm guessing the box has to be replaced?

As an FYI, I did some research and this was the part # 28510-42G00 (superseded to B8510-42G85). There's a few listed below $100 on some sites, but I'm thinking pick-a-part is the way to go. RCWD21 thanks for your help. Much appreciated.

Thanks for the intel. Yeah, the wipers still work. No intermittent, no high speed, and its stops mid wipe when switching off. Is the solution is to replace the amplifier relay box? When I thought it was the motor, I looked around at replacement motors, but I don't recall seeing this part in any of the parts suggestions relating to the wiper motor. If this is a Nissan only available part, this won't be cheap?

The intermittent function does not work, and whether at the normal or fast position, there is no change in wiper speed (seems to stay at "normal"). Also, moving to the "off" position, the wipers stop wherever they are when the lever is moved to the off position (which is usually "mid wipe"). Anyone know what is causing this, and whether its multiple problems? Bad wiper motor, worn linkage, or something to do with the wiper switch/lever?

Thought there might be interest in knowing how the poly bushings are holding up after 1 year. So far no visible signs of fatigue with the Energy Suspension bushings. When fully open, and even with applying some force up and down on the carrier, there's no play or flex with the bushings - the carrier is solid. I've a 31" real spare on it (not the OEM temp) and thought when going to a full size 35" spare that I might have to build a bumper mounted hinge, but given how this has worked so far, I don't see why going to a 33 or 35" will be a problem. For under $20 for the bushings, this is one of the most effective upgrades as far as bang for the buck for a common WD21 Pathy problem.

I agree with WiredWrong as to how much to spend on happiness. Given most of the WD21 are pushing 25 plus year old, and if blue book value if the frame of reference for the budget, a nice set of wheels and 33 - 35" tires will be close to, or exceed the book value. Look at what you want and your budget, and then come up with a design or plan and do the best "build" you can within your means. Are you doing the work yourself, or paying someone to do it?

Hope this helps AT and MT 31s 32703-31G18 18 teeth (BLUE) AT small tires 32703-31G20 20 teeth (RED) MT 4wd 32702-33G17 17 teeth 31s AT and MT small tires 32702-33G19 19 teeth (unknown)

Not sure what the logic is as to how the transmission changes the speedo reading. As far as I know, the speedo gear (in the 88 Pathfinder) is in the t-case. Even if the gears in the transmission are somehow affected/changed during your repair, its the t-case output shaft that registers the output shaft rotation to determine speed. Was the t-case taken apart during the repair? Or is this in the original t-case that came with the Pathfinder, or is it a swapped t-case that perhaps came with a speedo gear for 31" tires?

An SE comes with 31/10.50/15. The difference in circumference between a 31 and a 29 Inch tire is approx 6% or 5-6 mph. Your indicating a 7-8 mph difference. The added 2 mph variance may be dependent on the accuracy of your GPS and speedo.

In the 88, the speedo gear is in the t-case. The variance could be a result of a different size tire from stock. That would be the 1st thing to check.

Hey NWT87PATHY I think you've a error on the 00- 04 engines. They're not LT1's (which are 93-97 production years). The other LT1's are the new version LT1's coming out with the IROC and Vette 00-04 are LS based engines, and one has to be careful as the earlier 4L60E trans changed late 90"s (not sure exactly what year), but a early 4L60E will not bolt directly to a LS based engine, and a newer 4L60E will require a adapter to bolt to a earlier SBC or 93-97 LT1. With a GM auto trans, you can go to a GM DSD t-case (in some of the early GM IFS models) such as a NP241C (both 4L60E and NP241C are 27 spline). If looking to go heavy duty with a NP205, a Ford NP205 is necessary to retain a DSD. Have a look at the link to my project in Slartibartfast's post above. Not sure if the NV3500 or SM465 will accept a Ford NP205, and going to a GM NP205 means changing axles to a passenger side diff.

For your son in law to have "fun with it", what level of capability does "fun " mean? Are you able to do a straight swap such as finding another Nissan engine that is compatible (that would get it on the road "as in road worthy") or do you want to get into something that would be really fun (tons of HP/torque)? The 1st part of a successful project is knowing what you want in relation to your skills and available tools (and what you're willing to learn along the way), your access or ability to find good solid parts on the cheap, and your budget. The guys on this board can be really helpful if you can give up some details so we can drill down into what to suggest. "Now what", "having fun" and "not having deep pockets" leaves a lot to interpretation. Hope this helps...