V8path

Is the brake pedal feel a result of the MC issue, and its not the hydro boost itself? If that is the case, wouldn't that be fixed with a better MC from a different vehicle that fits whatever hydro boost being used? For a custom set up, I could use a reliable MC from a GM/Chev 3/4 Ton (I haven't read or found anything saying they're been issues with the GM MC's, and the appropriate hydro boost that it could be mated to, as the way to go? I have to change the brake booster anyways, so am thinking this would be the time to upgrade/swap over to a hydro boost. I was originally thinking of a GM brake booster, but there's limited space as it is, especially as I have the longer coilover shock hoops that extend into through the wheel well.

Been a while since I looked at this posting and notice there's been no comments for almost a year, but more than 2,000 views since my last posting. Lots of interest/curiosity, but no comments?

Thanks for the additional info. I had upgraded to the BM57 few years back but with the leak in the booster I'm thinking about upgrading the whole system, starting with a new booster and MC. Been doing some research on going to a hydro boost and a MC from a 3/4 T pickup given the extra weight/rolling mass of 35" tires and the HP from a V8. I've already the D52 OEM calipers in the front and Nissan OEM discs in the rear, and looking to upgrade to the Wilwood D52 dual pistons for the front, and D154 for the rear. Just wondering if anyone here has much detailed experienced with Hydro Boost, be it GM or other's. Kingman looks to have a bad experience and is 100% turned off with the GM versions of the Hydro boost?

Anyone have info re the ohm resistance for the stock fuel gauge?

Sounds like you've had a very very bad experience? I was hoping for some details on other's experiences to see if this something worth doing. Think I've a leak in my booster, and with 35" tires and more than double the HP my 88 came with, I thinks it time for an upgrade. Anyone else have input?

Does anyone know what the ohm resistance (empty/full range) is for the fuel sending units for the 87 - 95 Pathy's. Or where this info might be available?

Am thinking about doing this to my 88 Pathfinder. Any idea if the brake boosters between the 98 (that's your model year?) and an 88 are the same/interchangeable, or whether swapping in the Blazer (or other Chevy) booster is the way to go. Was thinking about the hydro boost off a Astro Van's is another option as well... Any feedback would be appreciated.

Always great to see out of the box innovation, which is a big part of this hobby. My plans in the future now that the LT1 up and running, is major upgrades to the drive train. I've had it out few a few times on the highway, and with 4.88 gears, the RPM's are up in the high 2k's to low 3k range, so I'm thinking of a "built" T56 6 speed manual (has double overdrive, 6th gear at .50 ratio) , custom doubler unit using NP241 gears, mated to a Ford DSD NP205. Am in the process of collecting the parts...

I'm not familiar with the R50 axle gears, but as far as the amount of work to swap the gears, wouldn't it be easier (as long as the width of the axle in the same), to swap the whole axle and just deal with coil spring mounts, and other "weld on" brackets to make it work? You would also have to look into (and fab or modify) other peripheral things such as e-brake cable, brake line, and axle shaft yokes/flanges, but these are a lot more of a intermediate level of expertise type issues, than a gear swap? Depends on your skill set??? That's my 2 cents worth

Its a LT1

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33315-small-block-chevy-swap-worth-it/?p=725310 this is what I did

If you know the length you need, and the fitting info, Mopac Auto in Langley has lines and fittings (or DIY kits) from Earls', Aeroquip, or Wilwood. You have to do your own homework and what you want/need, but they will have all the parts or can order them in for you.

Link if you want to see the results http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33315-small-block-chevy-swap-worth-it/page-2

There are a few things to decide if you decide to swap to a Chev V6 or SBC. Do you want to retain the Nissan t-case? Are you running the OEM front suspension or do you already have a SAS? If you retain the t-case and in its original position, then you don;t have to consider front and rear drive shaft modifications. These type of things can add to the budget very quickly (after the fact). What is your budget, and how much more HP / torque are looking for? If you're looking for ease of parts etc. after the swap, SBC is the way to go. There's enough room in the engine bay for a SBC, and depending how far you want to, or need to, position the engine will determine how much work has to be done as far as radiator/fans etc up front. Where you place the engine will depend on your suspension and what you need to clear, which is why the question of OEM or SAS. The main issue is the oil pan, but there are a few options there. There's a lot to consider, and it depends on your experience, or whether you're confident you can to gain that experience by just doing it (after some care thought as to what needs to be done). It's almost impossible to fully answer your question, when the question leaves a lot more questions... Let me know if you want some help with the questions

The mounting point on the Pathfinder is actually very solid, and the latch is as good as any door latch. It's the hinge busing that wears very quickly with anything larger than a 30" tire. Has anyone come up with a modification to the to the mount and replacing the OEM bushing set up, and retaining the OEM mount? I'm thinking about welding a piece of DOM to the OEM mount and using either poly bushing or larger oil impregnated bronze bushings. Does anyone know if the OEM mount is cast iron (i.e. not easily welded to?)

Instead of getting sleeves machined, why not use some DOM and bungs. These are readily available from most DIY fabrications suppliers.

Adapter plate with a shorten shaft to mate the reduction part to the T-case would b the way to go. If you want to go big or go home, have multiple choice of splined output shafts to mate other common T-cases.

It this correct? The 1st section is the TX10 reduction casing and 1/2 of the casing for the front out put shaft. The 2nd section is a combination of a custom adapter plate which the tail housing from a Nissan automatic trans is mounted. Then the TX10 transfer case is mounted to the automatic trans tail housing. The main shaft from the reduction section (which is the TX10 main shaft) is shorten 1 5/8" and this slips into the female input shaft of the TX10 transfer case. Pretty innovative. How long is this from the end of the transmission to the end of the output shaft in the TX10? What would really be great is a shorten shaft for the reduction section, and the custom mounting plate could be drilled o accept the front of the TX10 directly. How strong are the TX10's. I retained my TX10 after swapping in the LT1 and haven't really tested it to see how well it will hold up to the hp and torque from the LT1. I'm considering a flipped Dana 300, but this has caught my interest. The Dana is 2.62:1 which is better than the 2:1 of the TX, but being able to double this certainly is appealing.

Looks awesome. But I'm not clear on exactly what was done (I didn't see in anything in earlier posts to this thread, unless I missed a section altogether:). There is a custom mounting plate and another (partial) part of another casing that is between the 2 TX10's? Is that correct? What is the other casing from? What did you use for shafts etc to connect the 2 cases?

I agree with Terranovation. I did the small block and if planned properly, its not that expensive and there is enough room in the engine bay. If you're patient, finding an good small block engine for a great price isn't that rare, and the rest can decent salvaged parts. For the time and $, the 300 plus HP was the best upgrade, and it makes the ARB's, the 4.88 gears etc. so much more fun and capable. Low rpm's allow for great crawling control, and long mountain highway climbs are a breeze. For the money of going to a supercharger, what is the HP to dollars ratio? For what its worth, that my 2 cents.

Start with a budget and work from there. Do you know how much HP do you want or need? What is your level of DIY ability (know how and tools, etc.)? Comes down to these 3 basic questions, and then the answers will be easier

My suggestion is to start with a set budget, and then go to work from there. HP and torque is usually a factor of the following = know how (design and knowledge) and tools to DIY + ability to find or source the parts needed (ie. luck always helps) + amount of $ you have to spend Diff gearing would be front and rear - that's not going to be budget friendly, unless you can find both sets of axles with the lower gearing already installed.

With the diameter being the same, the main thing your fighting is the bigger mass of the wider tires. You can get the torque back with lower gears but at the cost of higher RPM's to reach the same MPH. There's really no way to have the same RPM without increase to engine HP, which is your 2nd option. More HP or lower gears. What's your budget, and how much torque are you shooting for. I went to a SBC V8 with 4.88 gears and that solved the problems of RPM and power. Am going to 35" tires soon.

bolt pattern for the wheels is 6 x 5.5 (or 6 x 139.7mm) depending on the upgrade, there are varying offsets and backspacing that should be taken into consideration

If you're looking to build a bumper mounted pivot and latch, have a look at these links http://www.atozfabrication.com/store/home.php?cat=274 http://www.comp4x4.com/Tire-Carrier-Hinge-Kit-HEAVY-DUTY-1-3-4-Spindle.html These are just a couple of links. Most of the DIY builder's parts website will have something. I've got the stock carrier but am going to change to one of the heavy duty spindle bearing parts like the ones in the links, but will keep the OEM latch and make a mount so that I can retain it. I think the OEM latch is as fine, as it locks like a door latch. The leak part of the OEM carrier are the bushings in the hinge, and was never designed to hold anything more than the stock spare or maybe up to a 31" tire.