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ebayfish

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Everything posted by ebayfish

  1. I had a similar issue as gr8xr7, gave me one more reason to get headers.
  2. Pics on this page http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39423-lifting-wd41-height-difference/. As for your front end, upper ball joints, centerlink & idler arm brace goes a long way.
  3. Looks good, my pathy was incredibly capable offroad with the bfg 235s & jgc lift, maybe even more so than now. I just hated being the shorter than a minivan driving down the road.
  4. Hahaha. That may have been a slip. Your right, 235/75r15 is correct, my mistake
  5. Lube specs http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28134-wd21-d21-and-r50-lube-specifications/
  6. Yes, replacing the fluid should be as easy as opening the top plug, then the bottom, letting all the gear oil drain. Replace the bottom plug(if it has a copper crunch ring to seal the plug, its worthwhile to replace it). Refill with new lube( buy qt containers & a pump, much easier than the squeeze bottle with nipple type) through the top plug until completey full, replace plug (& copper ring/gasket if necessary). If its never been done, changing that, the oil in your differentials, transfer case, brake reservoir & power steering is a good afternoon project to protect the parts you often overlook. There is a good write up in the garage section that lists out all weights of oil & capacities. Maybe you'll get lucky & that fixes the issue. I think though it could be a hard part starting to fail or something in linkage. Check to see if that spring has stretched or broke; I know its tight, but Nissans were never built for us big handed Westerners to work on.
  7. Window hinges: http://m.ebay.com/itm/151527627331?nav=SEARCH The ones without the spoiler are cheaper. As for the clutch & hard shifting,these may be separate issues. How many miles does your truck have? Does it slip at all? There should be a drain plug(large, probably 14mm, 17mm or 1/2 drive socket) near the bottom of the transmission & a similar fill plug near the top(just like your oil plug). I have an auto, so I'm not positive. You could try changing the gear oil in the transmission, but I'd bet its more of a synchronizer issue, but new oil never hurts. I believe the clutch pedal is tensioned by a spring, you may just need to replace that.
  8. That'll do it, half the time to fix a pathfinder, jiggling wires are part of the task.
  9. I've had a few people locally ask how much & what clearances I've gained with my 3+3 lift, so I figured I'd share in case anyone is debating on what to do to there's. Total cost of the JGC 3" suspension lift with new coils(MOOG progressive rate V8) & shocks all around, about $175 and 3 hr. labor. Total cost of 3" Body Lift $165, $130 for the kit(Jegs.com), about $10 in hoses, etc, $25 for a 4wd Shifter arm & (2) m12x1.25x175mm bolts robbed from a junk yard's hardbody torsion bar adjusters(otherwise about $20/per bolt from supply house) total time, about 10 hrs labor. Bare Bones Stock, The day I bought her. Stock 235/65/15 (measures 27 3/4" tall) 3" JGC Lift, stock 235s in rear, 31x10.50 front(no rubbing at all) 33x11.50 sitting on the side. 3" JGC Lift with 33x11.50 (275/65/18), with minor fender trimming, before trimming, rubbed alot in turns or any flexing 3" LGC Lift, 3" Body lift, 33x11.50 tires. No rub at while turning/flexing. I do get some body roll around quick turns or when catching wind behind a semi on the interstate though. Looks good, flexes well, and center of gravity is still fairly low due to the body lift. It gets compliments nearly every time I'm fueling at the pumps. The rear flexes alot more & the ride is more comfortable with the JGC coils, longer shocks & I cranked the front torsion bars down about 1/2-3/4". I could still bury the rear tires against the inner fender wells in the rear at full flex before the body lift. Even with 31s,left that way without body lift, it may have required more rear fender trimming or longer rear axle bump stops. Chromed alloy wheels & lower profile tires saved alot of weight & only cost me about 1/2 mile per gallon. After hearders, exhaust and new intake, I average 18.6 MPG
  10. Did it flash any codes? I had similar issues with clogged egr valve. I cleaned it & it never happened again. Check the gap on the plugs & make sure they are still good. Crank the engine at night & see if you see any spark from warn plug wires, etc, grounding to the engine, check ground points & make sure your MAF sensor has a good connection at the harness. Other than that, replace fuel filter, run seafoam in the gas to clean injectors. Also, have you checked the timing?
  11. Your spinning it manually? I believe that means you have a full open from differential. If you broke a ring gear or something inside the housing, I'm sure you hear it or the front end would have locked up.
  12. It sounds kinda like when my O2 sensor went out, low idle was great, but but it had an almost rhythmic loss of power at higher idle, but plenty of power when I laid into it. You could have possibly fouled it or maybe the cat when you blew all the gunk trough. On my 95, I just unplugged the O2 harness & it ran a lot better than connected. I picked up.a new NGK sensor for about $20 & it completely fixed the issue. Edit. Sorry, misread that last post, glad its running well again, I hate it wasn't the easy fix we'd hoped for
  13. Tooth count is key & always correct, if you search the forums, others have had the exact same issue. BTW, I always use Gates belts. If you haven't, it would be a good idea to replace your tensioner, water pump, thermostat & coolant bypass hose while you have the cover off.
  14. When I changed mine, if I remember, my passenger can was off one mark, I set it to the mark on the belt & ran it, but it did not run well. I did some research & saw others had the same issue & reset it one tooth off how I found it & it runs smooth as silk. Not sure if its a miss an issue, or a misprint on the belts, but one tooth off worked well for me.
  15. Automatic I assume? Have you flashed the codes yet?
  16. This thread helped me a lot http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31068-ac-3-body-lift-install-on-91-nissan-terrano/?hl=%2Bterrano+%2Bbody+%2Blift. he cut and wilded his old bracket, and illistrated how. Only about 3/4 inch of weld holding the bumper, but probably much stronger than those 4 goofy reloction brackets. Did you get the correct rear bots? M12x1.25x180?
  17. I readjusted my steering shaft to the correct splines. It makes no real difference, but a crooked steering wheel will one day seemingly cause straight crash.
  18. You definitely know you in a pathfinder when the only other thing with 30" tires following you on the trail is a Polaris rzr.
  19. I'd say it would help & I want to run one myself after I redo my steering. There are several weak likscto the current steering that cause a lot of "bump steer" the two major issues seem to be the idler arm flexing & the dog-bone style center link. As for the idler arm, a $30 brace from 4x4parts.com will correct this, as for the center link, you can replace it with a Grassroots brand for about $250, or do what I am & replace all steering components (I'm sure everything is due yo be replaced anyway) with a 2wd setup. All the angles for the 2wd setup are much better & the reviews I've seen is that you eliminate all bumpsteer issues, all for about the same price as the grassroots link alone. There are a few write-ups on both if you search the forums.
  20. When changing out, "upgrading" steering & suspension & you ask for inner tie rods for 95 4wd, inner tie rods & centerlink for 94 2wd hardbody, idler arm for 01 xterra, pitman arm for 91 pathfinder, coil springs for a 99 v8 jeep grand Cherokee, rear shocks for a 95 f250, front shocks for a 94 bronco II & where the closest machine shop is to modify this all together. His response being only, "Wow...y'all are covered up! Which shop's account is this going under??" Also when parts yards owners refuse to even honor their 30 day warranty warranty on good parts & not want to sell me parts, swearing its not going to work in an old pathfinder ('02 Xterra transmission)
  21. I'm very pleased with my pacesetters, but I don't see how in the heck they could be installed without a body lift. It seems it would be a nightmare to work them in place & rather difficult to loosen/tighten the bolts on the studs.
  22. Good or bad idea....pros and cons?
  23. Here in Tennessee, we don't get a a lot of snow nor do we know how to deal with cold related issues. On a couple of occasions last year, during sleet/snowstorms the locks froze on my pathfinder; not the cylinder but the mechanism in the door or striker. Once inside I could pry up the locks manually with a little force. I just had to open the rear glass hatch & crawl over the seats. Also, the lock on the gas cap (cabled to below the driver sear) froze & I had to repeatedly pour hot water over it at a filling station to open. Are there any cold weather tricks, to help this from happening? I.e. white lithium grease, wd40, or whatever to help resist freezing?
  24. Make sure to check the center hub bore too, you need at least 100mm(about 4") many Chevy rims are only 87mm, thus won't fit around your from hub.
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