byob

Did you replace the brake light bulbs recently?

Dash lights flickering-could be diodes in the alternator

Alot of interesting comments. But we have become a society that dictates what the manufactures build. The latest craze is wifi in cars. As cars become more complex there is a liability issue with modifications. The public wants a maintenance free car and thats what they are building. Gear heads are a dying breed that probably make up only 10 percent of the public. They want power and gas economy at the same time. To do this the cars are really becoming engineering feat. There are pantent rights that the manufacture wants to keep. There is a risk when someone tampers with electronics that it will effect other modules and how they operate on the can system. We are a society that takes no responsility for our actions-we sue for anything and everything regardless if it there fault. Manufacters are trying to protect their interest. A person has a floor mat stuck under the gas pedal and unfourtunately the whole family perished. Then came a massive recall and droves of idiots came out of the wood works claiming their Honda or Nissan accelerated on its own. Just a thought

hmm. Well the exhaust runs down that side and that is probably what you are feeling. I have never seen a trans generate that much heat to feel from the floor board. As far as the trans shifting if you hear a metalic noise there is no amount of flushing that will help it. There is planetary, one way clutch and other mechanical parts that once they fail its over. The biggest problem with the trannys is heat. If you do not change the fluid or tow alot the life is shortened. The seals in the pump get hard and loose the ability to generate or hold pressure. Usally the first thing to go is the reverse high clutch pack. There is always exceptions of course. My 92 I rebuilt the trans at 135,000 and my 91 is still original with 190,000. But when I do my oil changes at every 3,000 with syn I also do a drain fill on the trans. Just a thought

OK here is a few more pics and of another one that came in today Here is a xe with a home made rack

No it's in San Diego Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure yet. I will go back tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am converting my 91 to R-134. So I went to the 95 and took the compressor and lines. I noticed a new 90 that just came in. Its a xe but this guy did some work to it. He stuck a 3.3 in it and mounted the alternator up high with a welded bracket. He also had the oem alarm that was not keyless entry. I also took the oem alarm off the 95 to ad to the 91 to make it keyless.

What part of East County are you?

I have had a drill and a rigid break in the stud. Needless to say I went to 10mm studs

Two trains of thought djratlif if iI was in that situation. I would soak the broken stud in PB blaster or the second would be to drill out the stud and retap it. Center punching the center of the stud is very important if you are drilling it out. The studs are actually pretty soft compared to the juke turbo studs that i have to drill out.

I just bought another pathfinder with the typical exhaust leak. Here is your typical 8mm ex stud that break due to stretching. I replace all even though only two are broken. Total time in about 45 minutes. Here it is with the manifold removed. The key is to get a pilot hole close to center. I use a 1/8 drill Here is the tool I use Easy repair

My guess would be a bent rod. You will not get water in the oil unless there is catastrophic damage. Water injestion does not compress like air.

Factory gas caps rarely go bad. You have a gross evap leak. Check the evap system for any leaks. Nissan ses lights have a two trip system. The ecm has to see the failure in two key cycles for the light to come on. You will get a code on the first trip but no light.

Do not put any kind of lube on the belt. Clean the d ring. Seat belts for your truck are life time if they can still be found. Nissan purges their system after 10 years. the vin does take 24 hours to be put back in.

I am a shop foreman at a Nissan Dealership. We just bought a Toughbook c19 that cost $3500 alone. I need to buy a vi and just the basic hardware to get it running. The security card is $400

Actually $1200 is a good shop price. Book time on the repair is 8-10 hours. It depends on the shop rate as far as labor cost. Generally shop rates are $100-$130 a hour. Total parts comes out to around $200-$250 if you want the drive belt. So in the real world $1200 is my good guy price

I will do the repair for anyone on this site or friend $400 otd. The shop charges $1200

I am assuming the shoe is made of harder plastic. The secondary chain is the same unlike the Juke where the chain and guides are revamped as part of its recall.

I have done them as early as 30,000 miles

Make sure it is a lifter not a exhaust leak like 89 said. Will it go away-no. The lifter is starting to collapse or a outside chance it is sticking. What the atf will do is free up a sticking lifter if that is the case.

It depends how loud. Done correctly it will not whine. If it is too tight it will snap a cam or prematurely wear out the tensioner bearing. If it is very slight run it

It is a 07 with 80,900 miles. The engine is really clean internally and the client took good care of it

The client just bought all six coils as soon as I get the drivability done I will get to the rest. C3P has come a long way and $10,000 for the complete kit it better work well

The first pic is with the front cover off and looking at the chain. Here is the reason why. The secondary shoes wear out to the tensioner piston. In this case one of the worst I have seen. The secondary shoes cost $5 a piece