byob

The rear crossover tube can be removed if you drop the engine about three inches and tilt it back. the factory studs make the clearance a bear. That's how I did it under warranty. The problem that the factory had when they leaked was they would torque the crossover tube first and then the heads. Ultimately causing a twisting effect on the tube causing it not to seat properly. Eventually the gaskets leak. On the swirl valve code-make sure the lines are not plugged or crossed from the solenoid to the sensor and vent. The problem the factory had with that code is when they assembled the hoses with lube it would dry up and clogged the vent side of the solenoid. The ecm does not know that. All it knows is the system is not working properly. On the VQ35 engine as a whole is a great motor as long as the oil is changed. Once the rings collapse due to lack of lubrication it's done. I put three engines in a clients 350Z before the factory said no mas. The Murano's use the same engine and get the same results.

There is two versions of the recall for non salt and salt states. Any suspension or other mods do not affect or void the recall

The problem with the 8mm studs is that they are too weak to handle the contractions from hot to cold expansion. Your theory is correct on the Titans and Armadas cracking the rear of the manifolds because of a relief cut in the rear bank flange.

The first or top ring is the compression ring then the oil rings. Once the metal looses its tensile qualities from being hot it will not seat properly. I rebuilt L and NAPZ motors all the time and used a portable boring machine so I could do it in the car. Once the compression ring looses its seal then you have blow by. Which in turn like our cheap versa engines destroys the oil rings. On the 06 Altima engines Nissan uses chrome rings which did not seat properly and we use a pressure test to determine how much blow by is acceptable. Unfortunately todays engines are non serviceable so we replace them. In my opinion since you are there re ring the engine and call it a day. Once metal turns blue-hence hot spots on rotors-the metal hardens and becomes glazed. I question your machinist opinion on what is "intact". When I raced for Maxima Oil we would re ring the engine every time.

Multiple possibilities. On cold starts is when the truck needs the richest mixture and spark. So the first thing I would check is ohm the injectors, check wires and plugs, check cap and rotor, check for vacuum leaks, check your mas, check for carbon on the intake valves, check your fast idle cam position and or aac valve, check throttle position, see if the egr is sticking, check your timing, check your air and fuel filters etc I almost forgot check fuel pressure and the regulator

Yes the "D" position works all foreword "gears" and the OD works under normal conditions at around 45mph. The high clutch pack works reverse and high gear and are generally the first to go out

OK now we are getting somewhere. The ac is protected by a dual pressure switch. It will turn off the ac system if there is too high or too low of pressure. Fix the leaks first

What is your fuel pressure? On the throttle body injection the injectors are powered all the time with the ecm making the ground.

Actually 1st gear is 3.027, 2nd gear is 1.619, 3rd gear is 1.00 and OD is 0.694 ratios on the VG30. D would be the 1 to 1 ratio 3rd gear

Yes the tranny is a 4 speed. 5 if you count reverse

Wow I kept reading crank but no start. I believe that is what I read. Yep thats what I read

I disagree. He said it would crank but not start

I try to give clients the best bang for the buck. When I do the t-belt kit I give them the option. It is there money not mine it is a 45 minute job that once it's done it's done and no worry's. I do ad a radiator recommendation if the truck has 100000 miles or more with no ad in labor

I understand the attempt to better the performance by cleaning the mas. Working for Nissan for 31 years and I have never cleaned a mas. I have seen the adverse affects of those who try. I have seen kn filters with too much oil kill a mas. On 90-96 300z's I have seen kn filters with the seam in the wrong position affect the mas. I will stay on the manufactures side and quote a non serviceable part

Always recommend honing with new rings. It is like putting on a pad set without resurfacing the rotors. It can be done but I do not recommend it. If you see the honing marks in the cylinder that is a good sign. If the cylinder walls look like a mirror and/or are blue the engine was running hot.

What are you not getting-Spark or fuel?

I cringe when I hear people cleaning mas. The "hot wire" is very sensitive and is even affected by air flow. Need to check the voltage and gps. Nissan has ground problems among other things. Off the top of my head I am not sure how many key cycles it takes to erase dtc's. Try disconnecting the battery and taking the pos and neg cable ends and touch them together to fully discharge the system. That should erase the failed dtc but also will reset your srt's.

T-belts are easy to set up. Two ways I use is put the tensioner adj allen hole at 25 after that's close. Or if you can turn the belt 90 degrees between the cams after tightening your good. On factory belts the arrows point towards the radiator and the two cam marks on top with the crank mark on the bottom. If it whines it is too tight or if it rattles it is too loose.

I do t-belt kits when I am in there. T-belt, cam and crank seals, tensioner, water pump, t-stat, by-pass hoses, drive belts and radiator hoses. All factory

Fans electric or clutched work only up to 35mph. After that speed the air coming across the radiator is faster than what they pull. So with that driving under normal conditions would lead someone to the problem. Armadas had a huge cooling problem with the ac on. So I used to install a heavy duty fan clutch that would actually lock up at a certian temp. the downside is noise

My misuderstanding. Try this-even though the fuse is good it might not have continuity through the spade in the fuse block. If the spade is loose it will not send power to the circut. It has happened before. A test light will show power on both sides of the fuse but there is poor contact is the block. I used to slightly twist the fuse

T-CHAIN AND GUIDES

i would replace the radiator

The water is the easiest. I personally use a test light.I hook the ground to battery neg and run the tip of the test light along each wire. Simple physics while the truck is running- electricity seeks the shortest route to ground and will arc to the tip of the test light where it is bad.

You have a short. When the fuse blows in that circut you need to trace what is in that circut. It is simple because your fuse is blowing. Try each component to see what causes the fues to blow