stovanovich

Run r50 CVs in my buggy and looking for stronger CV options... does anyone know of a chromoly option or similar?

Will give that a go... dunno why i didn't think of it already Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

So have a weird issue that's been happening over the last few months, my dash backlights come on with the key but dimmed until you actually turn the headlights on which they then turn on properly. Any thoughts on why they are coming on dimly when they shouldn't be on at all until headlights come on?

The O/D wiring problem was a broken wire in the shifter, the lock etc... still a no. TBH haven't actually done much more work with that.

Bought some 2nd Bucket seats from a guys D21 Navara / Hardbody. Interior SLOWLY coming together over time... the count is now: - r50 High box centre console & shifter - Nismo Steering Wheel - Auto Technica Bucket Seats - Modified Custom Air vents

For anyone wanting to know this in the future it is an M24 size thread. [emoji2]

Sorry i mistyped, i meant thread size not actual nut size. But i can probably work it out from that Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Away from truck atm but am in need of a new nut for the pitman arm shaft. Anybody know the size offhand? For a WD21.

The Terrano II is still based on the wd21 platform so i wouldn't imagine so Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

We have a pretty awesome one over here in NZ where you find all sorts of good stuff including some mad Terrano builds (and of course the awesome factory SAS Safari / Patrols). www.offroadexpress.kiwi

With truck on and cap off the little filter bit rises up to top and if you try take it out it will push fluid out the top fast. Tried bleeding method as per fsm but either i did it wrong or it didn't work Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Had a wee incident a few weeks back that saw my pathy in a sticky situation (Aka on its side) And since then it has developed a leak from the top of the power steering resevoir. Any thoughts folks before i start the process of elimination?

Na I went to the junkyard and grabbed another WD21 floor panel, cut the studs off, blocked em off and put new ones in for the r50 shifter. Still haven't had any luck on the wiring side of things either (to be fair I haven't really bothered having another look at it but it would be nice to have selectable overdrive again as it turns out even that wiring didn't add up right haha) let me know how you get on!

Got it all in place and shifting so just need to figure out the wiring now and we're away laughing

Nope literally just the shifter as part of the centre console swap. The wiring side of things only controls the following things on these transmissions: OD, Shifter Light & Shift lock

Hey everyone, Hoping someone can shed some light on the following as I am finally getting around to completing my R50 - WD21 shifter swap. Does anyone whom has done this know how to wire up the shift lock mechanism? What I have found so far: The R50 has only 1 Blue wire & 1 Black wire (ground) Whereas the WD21 has 1x Red, 1x Blue & 1x White. I've already managed to wire up the light & O/D as they were on the other harness of the WD21 but this is the confusing bit. Any help appreciated.

This may have been covered before but I am going to install a Transmission Fluid temp gauge whilst I'm upgrading all my cooling system & trans cooler. Does anyone know where the factory sensor wiring is located & whether I can tap into this for my gauge? I know the sensor itself is located in the oil pan but was hoping there was better access to it a little closer to the engine bay / dash. Failing that I'll just do what everyone else has done and run a brass T fitting into the pre-cooler line.

Finished swapping in a Garrett turbo from the TD27 R50 into my WD21, also replaced my top mount intercooler with another newer one

New balljoints in! I'll be a happy man if I never have to do a lower balljoint again for a while

Bought a daily so the old girl can have a good birthday: So far tonight: - Rewiring winch switches - Replaced Braced Idler Arm (shot bushes) - cleaned air filter - Started prepping for passenger side balljoint replacements (did drivers side few weeks back) Still to come over the coming month: - New Turbo & Intercooler - New transcooler, filter & hoses - Window Seals - Replace Rotors & wheel bearings

Ah gotcha, that makes sense. Yeah I'd rather not be removing them too often either!

Yeah gonna give everything a good going over with grease, according to service manual the torsion bars need greasing? Seems odd but I'll try that as I've replaced tie rods, balljoints & now strut rods since it started all with brand new components. Ah, I'll have a look at the diff mounts, that's something I haven't checked yet. Tie rods are all new components since the noise started only thing in the steering that hasn't been changed is the steering box / pitman arm.

Definitely not rotational more like something needs a grease (not steering stops as it does it prior to these touching) I've heard clicking CVs plenty before this is more a singular click whilst turning the wheel at less than 5kmph eh when reversing out of garage or parallel parking. not all the time either, just enough to annoy me.

Na man it's not a cv as it does it in 2wd too and I have manual hubs. I also changed the CV boots back when the sound still existed & Surely I would've noticed a broken CV

So I've been chasing this click sound for a while! Changed different bits under the front end as a result and stil to no avail. Only does it when moving very slow and turning the steering wheel eg: Parking or reversing out of the garage seems to click on Drivers side. Anybody have some extra thoughts on this? So far the following has been changed for brand new parts: Tie Rods Idler Arm Strut / Compression rod bushings Shocks I'm at a loss now as to what it can be, I was certain it was the strut rods.