Mr. Pickles

With most everything else in the front suspension a direct swap, I just wanted to see if anybody knows if front shocks are as well. Who knows if there's a different top mount or something, and I don't have a Hardbody handy to compare. Summit shows Explorer Pro Comp ES3000's that fit a Hardbody, but have no listing for a Pathy, although they do list the rears separately which I assume are different from Hardobodys due to the leaf vs. coil aspect. So... anybody?

Everybody can appreciate a nice rig like yours. I personally would love that bumper/grill guard you have. I bet you get the same thing about Aussie 'roos that we in the Seattle, WA area hear from people saying "isn't it always raining there?" Most locals just nod and smile, and hope that person doesn't move here too.

Ummm, welcome to a V6, cause is not a V8.. At most you're gonna get throaty from off-idle to maybe 2500-3000 rpms depending on exhaust, then from say 2000-4000 or so you get a nasty thrashing and rasp, followed in general high RPM's up to redline by a kinda banshee whail that starts around 3500 RPM and really opens up at 4500 or so and carries up to the line. I tell ya what, if you have a somewhat open exhaust, people start payiing attention when the RPM's climb. Its a sick beast, and if its healthy, most people kinda shudder. Good times. Wow. I had to read that reply six times before I finally understood what you were talking about. Mr. Pickles, were you drunk when you wrote that? 'Cause the first few times I read it I pictured a drunk guy babbling. Not that I recall, but maybe it will read easier if you have a beer now. Go for it, its Friday! By the way, to some, babbling is an art.

That's the ticket, 88 pointed me in that direction cause mine was just plain stuck and couldn't be moved while on the truck. 1 end has a slight taper, so I put that in the vice and clamped on an old pair of vice grips as hard as I could get them on. Then, I just gave it a couple whacks with a rubber mallet and that's all she wrote. Easy as pie really, but that shaft can be a pain if you go after it the wrong way. I know this.

My first thought is, holy isth, nice truck! That's a beast. My second is "post smaller pictures."

Ummm, welcome to a V6, cause is not a V8.. At most you're gonna get throaty from off-idle to maybe 2500-3000 rpms depending on exhaust, then from say 2000-4000 or so you get a nasty thrashing and rasp, followed in general high RPM's up to redline by a kinda banshee whail that starts around 3500 RPM and really opens up at 4500 or so and carries up to the line. I tell ya what, if you have a somewhat open exhaust, people start payiing attention when the RPM's climb. Its a sick beast, and if its healthy, most people kinda shudder. Good times.

And no, if by "steering feel a lot better" you mean remove any slop or feelings of worn items, no it will not. The stabilizer will reduce impacts felt from larger that stock tires and general bumps, potholes, etc., but it will not cure a sloppy steering situation.

Good score on that vaccuum hose. Those things can cripple a truck. Here's a shot out to replacing them semi-regularly, particularly if you notice an issue with them. Its funny what different people experience on different fuel. I've run everything available from the AM/PM cheap fuel every fill-up in Kent, WA (where I live) that 87Pathy hates to premium + octane booster when I was nieve and didn't know any better but thought I was giving the former beast a treat. It all did the same. But I guess I've got a stubborn girl in this Pathy. Even towing a 16' boat over a 500 mile trip over 2 passes coming and going only dropped my mileage about 1-2 mpg.

No idea on your 2001 as it is a completely different generation and beast than the older trucks. Have you searched around for an aftermarket swap/kit?

Too bad, I already talk enough trash.

I run 2 Sony Xplod 700watt 10's with an 1000 watt Alpine V12 with a Phoenix Gold PowerFlow 1 farad cap. Bass on a budget, and it gets to business. Used to have a single 12" Fosgate HX2 DVC, but that's in our other car now.

Could maybe be the bearing in the waterpump going away. Regardless, if you know its leaking, you should replace it. Having that go out sucks, especially if you're on the side of the road far from home. I know this first hand. :furious:

Please... search... its... magic... (this has been covered over and over and over and over and over...)

Bite me

You East Coast/Midwest guys seem to forget that while people pay more for Pathy's out here in the west, we also don't see the salt and associated wear and tear that you do. A 10 year old rig could very possibly be in very solid and clean condition. Because of this, we don't sneeze at pushing the mileage above and beyond "normal". I exempt my Pathy from these "normal" conditions as I found out after the fact of purchase that mine came from back there. But in general California/SW/West Coast cars demand the highest prices when considering classic, collectible, and desired cars. We just tend to have cleaner and gentler driving and living conditions than you guys have to deal with.

What 88 said, check these things out. But also don't be suprised if there is a much larger problem of serious overheating. Why would you even risk driving on an engine putting out these messages and signs.?! "Saw a bunch of lights, but didn't think anything of it. Then I saw the temp maxed but kept driving till coolant boiled out. Kinda freaked me out." WFT?!?!?!?! Please leave your keys and your license at the door, you're done.

Mmmm... Pathy binging. I thought most Sheep drivers got stuck at the curb. For me, that just explained why they kept driving around the mall parking lots with nowhere to go. I did'nt realize that's as far they were allowed to go on daddy's cash on this month's allowance.

I bet you could find some buyers for the nerf bars and lego wheels at least, let alone the engine, tranny, interior, glass, ...... etc.

More like pre-95: 31x10.5- could sag over the years and require cranking of the Tbard or trimming on stock suspension, especially since many Pathy's did not come with this big of tire, but rather smaller... 32x11.5- could be done if cranked slighly above stock suspension, and probably sllightly trimming of plastic fender trim, etc. May be anywhere from "mild" to serious carving 33x whatever- they magically jump to a mythical 4" body lift (haven't seen it, but it would be a pain if somebody ever found one) as the answer. Um, no. Much work in the suspension, along with the body, and ok it can be done. Its better to have the additional work done in the suspension anyways.

The MTR's seem to be more of a comparison to the BFG M/T's or any other mudder than to the BFG All Terrains, but they like to charge roughly 25-50% more than the average brand, for seemingly no real advantage. I'd go for equal perfomance while saving a buck to spend elsewhere.

Once again, you were robbed. I'm gonna have to check out my to-be father-in-law's 03 Pathy. But at least that's another source (and a Pathy at that) to pick some parts. I've been thinking about another JY run, so I could take a look if you want. I want a new rear hatch latch, various toys, a driver's seat...

get a good penetrating oil like PB blaster and spray the parts thr day before, its amazing what penetrant will do in 24 hours, as opposed to 10 minutes Its even more amazing what it'll do over the course of of couple days if you spray it each day. I had a problem one on a weekend project, so I left it during the week and soaked it several times with PB Blaster, and it came right off. That's gonna be standard operating procedures for any new project I come across.

Nissan robbed you R50 guys. My 94 has a push-button electric rear glass release. Was this an aftermarket add-on by the P.O. or something? And to think, they stole your frames too...

Its isn't an official recall, but there is a quiet type of deal where Nissan will replace them up to 100K miles. But almost nobody knows about it, and the dealer will play dumb and try to get out of doing the work for free. Your best bet would be to search around this forum and the web for info. on it you may be able to print up to harrass the dealer with. It would probably help if you're the original owner, and take it to where you bought it, but who knows. Good luck. You might also ask if there is anybody in your area who has successfully had Nissan do it. As for the headers, there are 2 options. Pacesetters are cheaper but supposedly of lesser quality, while Thorley's are more expensive but supposedly more solid and better quality. Search the site for these topics, they've been covered a bunch. Oh, and I'd pretty much guaruntee Nissan wouldn't pay for it if you try to do headers at the same time.

I would't say the transfer case moves around much at all, just a slight bit when push hard. Its more like you could budge an engine or tranny slightly if you pushed hard enough. I'm not sure if that's ok, or if it is supposed to be absolutely solidly mounted. But its probably just fine there. That driveshaft hoop is interesting, I think I'll take it off and see if it goes away. There seems to be enough clearance around it, but who knows. 2 bolts, its worth a shot.