ezlife

Ever since I seen this setup for sale on this forum. I can't stop thinking about it. It has to be the best setup for someone who truly plans on staying a few days. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35878-for-sale-1998-pathfinder-le/

Well maybe Sunday I am going to try out a few different chevy patterns. I don't plan on changing rims unless the offset is the same, but I can't help but wonder.

Nice system. I plan on putting an isolator, but for the extra few bucks it would be nice to have the option of dual batteries at your fingertips in the cab.

I steam cleaned my under carriage and engine compartment. It made all the difference in the world. I should have metal brushed it and coated the frame while it was in that condition. Instead I took it back out to the mud. You wouldn't believe this, but it's dirty again.

I have been poking around trying to find which rims would interchange. I found a couple of sights, but the information is not always the same. Does anyone know any direct bolt on replacement wheels from other manufactures? Here is some information I found. I don't know any of this to be fact yet. 1989 Nissan Pathfinder 6x5.50in - 6x139.7mm Medium OE 15in 100 12mmx1.25 16-22in 15-25mm 6 on 5-1/2" Chevrolet - all to '48 Chevy/GMC - P.U., van to '70 - 4x4 P.U., Blazer '71-'89 - LUV 2WD '72-'84 Dodge - D-50, Ram 50 P.U. '79-'87 Ford - Courier PU '72-'84 Mazda - P.U. '72-'89 Nissan/Datsun - P.U.. Pathfinder '67-'89 Toyota - SR5, 4WD P.U., Landcruiser, 4-Runner (some) to '89 NISSANPATHFINDER1987-04Metric: 6 X 139.7 Standard: 6 X 5.515 X 6/16 X 7 12 X 1.25 100 M

Change the belt. Trust me!!! lol. I did bend a valve and weeks later finally worked through all the problems caused by a broken timing belt. It's really not that bad of a job. Two hours or less if you have all the tools lined up.

The belt I used did have the timing marks. Plus I had the advantage of having the heads off when I set TDC. That's why I posted these pictures. I'm confident that these marks acceptable, lol.

Well that's more fun then I have had in awhile. I went around the first mud hole and the truck shut off. Waited 5 minutes and it started back up. For the rest of the night I ran through all the mud holes and the only problem I had was a loose battery terminal. I wanted to upload a few video's for you guys to have some laughs. First off the RTV that went out there broke his front cv axle in the first mud hole. I have worked on these things before but never realized they weigh 3500 pounds. It wasn't as easy to pull out as I thought it would be. I also got a short clip of the two guys on top of the RTV screaming like little girls because a snake crawled across their feet.

So now I have a new problem. Around 2500 rpms the truck seems to stumble. If I throttle on or off it clears up. The warmer it get the worse it gets. Today I put it in neutral from 2nd and it died. It did not restart. I pulled the fuel pump relay even though I didn't smell excess fuel. It made no difference. I'm assuming now that I don't smell fuel this is a new problem. I waited about 15 minutes and the truck fired right up. Drove it home. I have decided I'm taking it to the woods tonight. I have a buddy with a truck and trailer. I plan on driving it until it won't restart again, lol. I can't take this worrying and not traveling more then a few miles from the house.

They are aftermarket. I don't know the brand name but my buddy had these laying on his front porch with a pile of others. They are 5" x 2 ". If you turn the bracket 90 degrees from the light they measure 5" tall. I think for the back I am going to try and put a flood light style in the middle of the spare tire.

They are aftermarket. I don't know the brand name but my buddy had these laying on his front porch with a pile of others. They are 5" x 2 ". If you turn the bracket 90 degrees from the light they measure 5" tall. I think for the back I am going to try and put a flood light style in the middle of the spare tire.

http://youtu.be/dzKB1sQ3-nc In the sport bike world there are certain icons that ride on the illegal side. Ghost rider is one for example. But this guy, is just plane crazy. Moscow

I could not get a good picture of the crank mark. Just know that when you are setting it look down at the marks. If you look dead on like I did with a mirror you will be advanced. I only know this because I had the head off.

New Fog Lights. I know a normal person would have fixed the dirty headlight first.

I do have confidence in the truck. I was able to laugh at my friend in his 99 dodge 1500 sport. After he got pulled out of the mud I walked through most of it in 2 wheel. Only reason I locked it in was because I would have had to beat on it to finish the hole. I also was able to pull a stock z71 out of a nice hole. Although I"m sure that one cost me a quarter of my clutch life time.

I have a buddy that has a real nice z71. About 400 hp 450 torque. I have taken it out several times and never found a need for 4-low. One time riding along with him he buries it. He digs out the bumper and hooks up the strap. He wants me to get in the truck why an f250 snatches, and I mean snatches trying to get his truck out. I never thought about the truck being in 4 low. I matted the gas. Make no mistake I threw all of the mud out of the hole and rocketed up to dry ground. I got out and relieved myself immediately. This is how I remember how to shift my truck. 2 hi to 4 hi is ok. That's why they are next to each other. Neutral is there as a warning, you are now entering 4 low. If it can get worse, this is when it will happen.

Verify the timing belt change, lol. I didn't and just spent two weeks correcting the problem. Nice truck.

Sorry, in my first line I meant to say ran the truck for 20 seconds, shut it off and it wouldn't start back up. I guess my question is that by having the return line plugged could this cause such a rich condition and that's why the truck will only restart after a couple of hours each time?

So this morning I went out and the truck started right up. Let it run for about 20 seconds and it shut it off. Changed the coil, cap and rotor. Still had the same spark, which seems a little weak to me but it's the same when the truck starts or not. After 20 minutes of my buddy saying let's pull start it and me arguing that I would rather solve the problem why it won't start, I gave up and we pull started it. It was really flooded. I drove it around, brought it back shut it off. No start again. Pulled the fuel pump relay and the truck ran till it ran out of gas. About that time my buddy remembered we never put a filter on the fuel return line. He popped the bolt out of the end of the hose and it was raw fuel. The truck has started and ran find the rest of the day. The oil leak how ever is no better. Since it's not leaking onto the belt I'm going to run it for now. I will be pulling this motor probably over the winter and resealing it or doing the 3.3 swap if funds allow. mauitrailguy what do you mean by using an engine hoist for the trans?

Idle screw is backed out all the way. I sprayed all the lines for a vacuum leak and got nothing. I will clean the maf and the throttle body later. Right now I just don't want to create or dive into any new problems. This one kicked my ass. My new rules is if it's not a timing chain motor change the belt. Even if you think it was changed yesterday, lol. What I would like to ask is if I had a 3 or 4 inch body lift do you think I could squeeze the motor out then? Just a thought for later. For a laugh me and a friend figured out how to make this the perfect motor. Head spacers to the point it's not an interference motor anymore and then a giant turbo to get the power back, lol.

Well it wasn't the timing seal. It was the oil pump housing. Which I can't take off without dropping the oil pan. So I loosened it up and rednecked some gasket maker back there. Put it back together, ran it down the road, brought it to the house and it wouldn't start. Thanks kingman for the tip. I unplugged the pickup and heard the relay clicking on the fender well. Then I checked for 12 volts to the coil and I had that. Checked for codes and at first it gave me a green light only. Reset the system and got no codes ( again assuming no codes means red and green light just stay lit). Before when I had this problem I changed the coil and that didn't fix the problem. So we slowly poured a little water over the temp sensor in the head and waa laa it started. Slowly put water in the radiator and bled the system and it started a few more times after that. We will see. Hopefully it's good for now. I still have a small exhaust leak which I just need to get a shorter bolt to fix and later I will worry about the high idle problem. It stays around 1100 to 1300 so I guess it won't hurt for now.

This Nissan has been put in time out. I am giving it time to think about what's it done while I calm myself to deal with the situation. Took it out yesterday and put 30 miles on it. It ran great. Got back to the house to find oil leaking from behind the timing cover. SMH Still happy to have 30 miles with no dying, no problems restarting. On the flip side I have learned that I am going to change everything I touch on this truck. Luckily this problem is more time then money as I'm thinking it's probably the timing seal, but it's a little ridiculous for a truck to run so sweet and then everything stopped working at the same time, lol. I really appreciate all the help here. Every time I think about about burning this thing I remember you guys must have kept them around for a reason.

Alright so today I broke out a gallon of gas and a match before I realized, if I burn this truck then I have been beaten by a 1988 piece of steel. First I checked my connections to my home made temperature sensor extension. It seems one may have been some what loose, showing .01 resistance. Fixed it. Drove it around the block, tried over and over to make it not start again. I checked for codes and now there is no codes, ( assuming both lights lite up when no codes) 21 nor 13 or what ever they were. I noticed the battery wasn't charging. Took the altenator off, went to 3 stores to test it, finally one was able to do a test and said it was bad. Took it to a local shop and they said brushes were shot and 4 gallons of mud were inside. I can't imagine how!!! lol. Luckily 30 bucks and I was out the door. Now charges at 14 volts constant. lol. Put the truck back together and on the third test run the truck shut off when shifting to fourth, pop the clutch it was fine. Again it shut off when pushing the clutch in. Popped it again and it ran fine for 3 miles back to the house. On the plus side the exhaust leak is 95 percent gone I have a pile of old emissions crap and hoses on the floor. Still trying to figure out what the high idle problem is. After disconnecting the emissions it now stays around 1200 rpms.

Nefarious this I know, lol. After checking into everything from small block to diesel it's the obvious choice. The problem I have right now is funds and time. I am moving in a month so I have already offed my other truck and my bike. I don't need to take the nissan with me but if it works out great. So far I really like it. I could see this happening down the road.

I made an extension for the temperature sensor. It's a plug in the head, that has a harness or 6 inch extension. This then plugs into the main harness. I didn't notice when building the temp sensor harness dropped down by the alternator behind the timing belt cover. So I extended the Main harness plug to meet up with it. I didn't ohm the connectors. Maybe this is my temp sensor code. Could the temp sensor error stop the vehicle from running? Please excuse my ignorance on some of this. I have downloaded a few different manuals. I work on newer sportbikes so I'm spoiled by chapters in the book that explain what exactly could cause error ex. 43. I know this is a much simpler system but I'm still putting it together in my head. Since all the parts seem to be oem nissan, and I'm pretty sure original or only serviced at nissan until the mid 90's, I know that I better get to know the truck real well real quick, lol.