xterra

Luck and patience.

I installed a new battery since the wife had left the lights on after she got home last night. I also took the opportunity replace the coat hanger the PO had installed and put in an actual battery hold-down.

Thanks! That's exactly what I was looking for!

My top 5 list (which is thinking way outside the box): 1- Fisker Karma 2- Ford GT 3- Pontiac Solstice GXP 4- Tesla Roadster 5- Acura NSX Honorable Mention: Pontiac Aztek (think of it like a 20th century Edsel)

From the Electrical section, I need the "Meter and Gauges" - SE Model Combination Meter page and the "Meter and Gauges" - SE Wiring Diagram page. Thanks.

Nefarious- I've only got a '90 FSM, and the wiring for the gauges on the '93 is different. (Plus there are extra things on the '93, like ABS, that mine doesn't have - so I can't just do a 1-for-1 comparison of the wire colors.) If there's somewhere else in a '93 FSM that would have the info I need, I'm open to that as well.

I'm trying to help a friend with his truck, and I've run into a roadblock. I need to get two pages from a '93 FSM to try and find an electrical issue. My '90 FSM isn't helping since the cluster wiring is different. From what I can tell, the '93 was unique since they changes to electronic speedo and a whole new dash layout in '94. I've tried search here and all of the links provided in the pinned section, but '93 is noticeably missing. There's one on eBay for $120, but I really don't want to spend that for 2 pages of information. If anyone has the a '93 FSM and can get me pictures or scans of the "Meter and Gauges" - SE Model Combination Meter page and the "Meter and Gauges" - SE Wiring Diagram (pages EL-54 and EL-56 in the '90 FSM), he and I would greatly appreciate it.

Replaced the ignition switch and all the locks with new ones from Nissan. The original ignition switch were so badly warn that you could start the truck without the key being all the way in the lock. I can now say definitively that part number 99810-85P28 (for MY93) will work as a substitute for 99810-41G90 (MY90) - and possibly others, too. The plates on the back of the door locks look different, but still fit and work fine. Plus, it doesn't have the annoying button to release the ignition key (BONUS!) The glove box lock cylinder is NOT a match - but it's still cheaper to get the set than the individual parts and then having to mess with getting them re-keyed to all match. Before starting this morning, I made a quick run to the JY since they just got in an '87. Along with other stuff, I pulled the glove box lock so that I had one to fiddle with (before I found out the new cylinder wouldn't work). It must have been fate, though, because the one I picked up is close enough to the new key that I can lock it!

While chasing electrical gremlins this weekend, I also started to map out wiring to the dash. The FSM and Owner's Manual both reference a Check Engine Light (CEL). By the looks of it, it should be in the upper left by the e-brake light on the SE cluster, but mine's got nothing. It's not a burned out bulb - there's no silk-screening, no icons, and no bulb in that spot in the cluster. This may be a quirk with the 2-door '90s, but that seems odd. The '89 and '90 FSM show a CEL on the SE gauge cluster. The '91 isn't online, but I would expect it shows it, too. It's impossible to tell from the dealer brochures either, since the steering wheel is (conveniently) in the way on those pictures. So I'm asking owners of '89 thru '91 Pathfinders - so you have a CEL or not? The bigger question, though, is whether mine not having one is a big deal or not?

The Little Things - Danny Elfman (from the Wanted soundtrack)

Starting Friday night, I figured I'd try to make it up to my truck for hitting the column by finally tackling the electrical and installing parts. So I installed: New from Nissan multi-function stalk = Dash lights now stay lit and cruise control works all the time JY washer/wiper stalk = intermittent wipers now work JY automatic heater/air controls = AC blows cold on #3 setting, not just 1 & 2 Reworked the power outlet = (hopefully) no more blown USB power adapters JY door lock timer (with re-soldered connections) = the doors now unlock themselves when I try to lock them, instead of re-locking when I try to unlock them.

Bumped into a support post in the parking garage at work coming back from lunch... Did more damage to the post than to the front bumper, though.

Yah, what fman and Terrano said... There are instruction on how to install in the How-To section here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/1499-help-me-install-my-ebay-impulse-buy/ It's got roll, pitch, and an "altimeter" - really a barometer that you need to set. IMHO, it would have made more sense as a compass, but - it is what it is. Easy fit for square-dash WD21s. They also made them for D21s - the difference is the outlines in gauges looks like a pickup instead of an SUV.

Jacob- Here's what revealed for Interior Mod threads: this, this, this, and this. (Links in those will take you farther down the rabbit home, too.) On my rig, I've done this (details here) Also this (similar idea to Manik) And installed this eBay find Not pictured are the new head unit and speakers, auto-dimming mirror, or Audi A4 cup holder installed in the armrest. Make sure to post picts of whatever you end up doing to your rig.

Had to re-attached the review mirror wedge to the windshield (again). 5th time in 5 months - each time with a different adhesive.

Finished my expedition / cargo box build: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38290-wd21-expedition-cargo-box-build/

Thanks. Just found out I'm headed out of town, so I'll take a look next weekend.

About a month ago, I started getting a "thunk" noise when I turned the steering wheel full right or left - like when I pull into a parking space. Usually it's just a single thunk. I've also noticed a "rattle" or "vibration" coming from underneath when driving on rough roads - almost like there's something starting to come loose. It's not a loud, constant noise - it's more subdued than that. And that seems to be coming from both the front and back - but I can't be 100% certain on that. I'm planning on replacing the shocks in a couple months and adjusting the torsion bars at the same time. I'm assuming that won't fix it, so what else should I be looking at that could cause the "thunk" and "rattle"? And would they be related, or should I be looking at two different causes? I'm assuming that it's something that's worn out, but I don't know what I should be looking for (or at). To save y'all the hunt: WD21, VG30e, 4x4, stock suspension As always, thanks to sharing your collective knowledge.

Since you're looking for a factory restoration, have you checked with Rob (username Alkorahil) to see if they're still available from Nissan? Here's a link to his parts post: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/

I love all the little differences in the WD21s from country to country. The bumper is pretty obvious (to hold the different sized number plates for the EU), but I've never seen those tail lights before.

Congrats! That's a great looking truck. I'm glad it all worked out for you.

Thanks Dennis! From the numbers I've seen floating around the Internet, only between 500 - 1200 were imported into the US. I only saw one other '90 2-door on the market before I bought mine - and I was on the hunt for ~9 months. With any luck, I'll be keeping this one out of the JY for a very long time!

It's been a busy couple days... Replaced the sun-baked factory nerf bars with new ones from Westin. Replaced the sun-faded mirrors and cracked door handles with new to me set of JY mirrors and door handles. Installed a new head unit, new amp, new speakers, and a whole bunch of sound dampening material.. (Only the front speakers are working now, so that will give me something to do tomorrow...) Removed the factory VSS (since it didn't have passive arming or remote entry) in prep for a new alarm sometime later.