Quaintbucket

Did you clean your mass air flow sensor? It might be caked with gunk that it might as well be unplugged. Otherwise, I would say it is the IACV. I cleaned my egr by using carb cleaner and a toothbrush.

Looks sharp. I like what you got going on there. Were you planning on using it to tow your boat?

Damn, that's definitely not something I want to hear. do you have the part numbers for those new ones? What caused the evap to fail like that other than age? Just out of curiousity because this is the first I've heard about it.

I had to quote both because holy crap that's a difference. Looks pretty nasty... makes me want to do that to mine but in orange, dark green, blue, red, or white. How much did that paint job set you back by?

Is anyone carrying the Ironman anymore?

Just tell him that you ran out of pockets to empty. I am pretty sure it gotta be the distributor if you're still not getting a spark after replacing the cap and rotor. Have you tried pulling a distributor from a junkyard to test it out?

Whoa, man. Sorry, I guess my tone came out wrong, I wasn't trying to chastise you or discredit you. I just simply disagree with the indication that the knock sensor was critical to the system. I just look at the FSM in the past and it suggests that it is not critical to the operation of the vehicle. My quick google after my post shows that it's a mixed bag of anecdotes whether or not it had a meaningful impact on the engine performance. The reason why I replaced the knock sensor was for one reason and one reason alone: I got tired of seeing P0325 everytime I scan the car for codes (dead knock sensor, nothing else) and did not want it to influence diagnosis. The relocation was done because I do not feel like pulling off the intake manifold to replace 1 knock sensor which is a 3-6 hour job in itself. Time I just simply do not have. At this moment, it's a good temporary fix until I can get the stuff together for the IACV (cleaning or replacing TBD), a couple hoses, and valve cover gaskets. Once I have all the kits in place and the time to do it, I will be also replacing the busted KS. The relocation of the KS is perfectly fine. The only issue is that it's not as accurate because it's so far from the engine but it will be adequate as a safeguard from any problems that will arise. On top of that, I can't really say if the KS made a difference in my fuel economy because I did a full tune up on my pathfinder (spark plugs, wires, dist. cap, dist. rotor, fuel filter, and air filter) as well as the MAF sensor cleaned up all pretty like. Fuel economy and performance definitely improved even with being an AC+idle hog during this heat wave we got going on. I am hearing a ticking noise from my engine. Sounds like metal vibrating on metal. Most likely my engine mount is loose so I have to tighten that up today. Sorry if I offended you. I'm just curious, what happened to your header causing it to crack? TL;DR: I do agree that the KS should be in the original location; however, the relocation is a perfectly acceptable temporary fix until the owner has time to take off the intake manifold and all that @!*% around it. Besides, they will eventually have to replace the valve cover gasket.

Can you do the same with the R50 because I was thinking the same as well a couple days ago.

Did you replace it in the spot it originally locate under the intake manifold or relocated it? I relocated mine. It really should not have an effect on your engine. All it does is tell your ECM that there might be an issue with the engine or something else. If you get a p0325 by itself, it means the knock sensor or the harness has gone bad. No more, no less. Common problem.

I bought a ms300 from amazon for like $15 Reads and clears.

It is pretty normal as far as I can tell. We are having a hot spell of 35-37 Celsius here lately and the engine hood is pretty hot after driving for a while.

Is it actually making a cranking sound like it's trying to turn over? When you replaced the cap and rotor, did you check the spark plugs again? Spark plugs and wires is definitely what I would replace before looking at the entire distributor itself.

Wow, that's an interesting idea.

Found it! http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/84010-2002-Pathfinder-(R50)-Build-Thread-by-Allof75?p=1624512#post1624512 Hope that helps. I kinda want to do this modification but not sure how I feel about it with driving at dawn and dusk.

622km! Good grief! I was lucky to get 450km out of a tank (not running out, by still!). Hopefully my fuel milage will get better now that the MAF sensor is clean nad the fuel trim is back to normal. Let me know if you did any modifications to your vehicle because I want to get more KMs out of it... I think there was a thread done on this for the instrument cluster but I am not sure where it was. Here, EXPO, or nicoclub... i will check when I can.

x2 I was doing that same mistake by trying to "get that little bit extra" until I learned about the charcoal canister being affected by that. Stop after the first click. Pieces of charcoal might be clogging your EVAP system.

i am pretty particular to neon pink.

$50?! I think I will hit up NAPAfor that then. Thanks!

Yeah now I have p0440 p0450 and p0446. All EVAP. I think it is just one part doing this. Will just go to a junkyard and do a part swap. Not critical to my emission, fuel mileage, or performance,

PASSED. it was the mass air flow sensor caked with gunk. Test results was amazing. It was if I just bought it after 2003.

Drove it. Get all system ready. Pulled 2 codes. p0440 and po446. Small evap leak most likely. This suggest the cats are fine. Shop is busy right now but will do a smoke test early afternoon. Right now I'm going to the park with my daughter to have lunch and have fun. My question is: can an evap leak cause nox? I know the MAF SENSOR would most likely be the biggest cause because it was so caked on with gunk. Would make sense because accerlation did feel like the car was choking.

02 sensor was not ready. Evap was not ready. I am taking it for a good drive and then will bring it back. The mechanic noticed the MAF sensor. Brought it to me caked in gunk. I was surprised. He cleaned it free if charge. Guess I did not clean it as well. I was scared to touch it. After driving it for a bit... It feels a lot better. I did the iron foot test and it did not do that surge. More to drive. Coffee break and heading back. Cheers.

Wouldn't it throw a P0171 code? My reading was double the maximum allowed. Did not see any obvious vacuum leaks. Haven't checked 02 sensors. On way to mechanic for a diagnosis.

Also, for more information if it helps some people figure this out... When I am driving, if I try to slam the gas pedal to the floor, it will rev about 4k rpm but the speed will not go up unless I ease off on the pedal then it will surge forward.

Ok, I am having a lot of trouble with my pathfinder passing smog and I am literally stumped. I am taking it to a mechanic to do a professional diagnose because I don't know where to go from here. My NOX is high and my HC and CO is fine. I have done the following in this order: 1) inspect and clean EGR. It wasn't gunked up or anything. 2) sea foam intake manifold Took it to smog again and the test results got worse. Huh??? 3) inspect and clean MAF sensor 4) found vacuum leak on air intake duct boot to intake manifold 5) replaced spark plugs 6) replaced spark plug wire 7) replaced dist. Cap 8) replaced dist rotor 9) replaced fuel filter 10) replaced air filter 11) check for exhaust leak (none...) 12) relocated knock sensor (threw a code) No codes anymore. Took it to smog test after driving 150km. Failed aircare but not as... Horrible? Still no codes. I'm at loss for words. Any ideas? The vacuum leak was brutal (two major cracks) that threw p0171. I'm starting to think I should just throw in acetone in the fuel tank just to cheat. Any ideas??