Beatup96

Not sure how much help it'll be , but I have the AC 2" with the 1" strut spacer , 15x8x3.75 wheels and 32/11.5/15 SST's . I have a good inch of clearance between the tire and the perch , it looks as if a 12.5" wide tire would clear it . Hard to get a good shot but better'n nuthin........

With the AC lift and 1" strut spacers I was able to fit 32/11.5/15's , pretty much the same height as your 265/75/16's . I had to remove the mud flaps (or the tires would have done it for me) , and some trimming is still needed . With the OME and those wheels you should be good , but as you say , I'd expect to have to do some trimming .

All in good time..... Still getting used to the new ride and handling characteristics , overall I'm pleased with the results . All the new suspension parts did offset the toasted control arm bushings a bit , but the ride at over about 50mph was still pretty scary , let off the gas abruptly or hit a bump "just so" and it was like a rodeo ride . Now that everything is nice and tight back there I find myself on the gas with the windows down and radio off just to hear the tires hum..... I leave my job at about 3:30 a.m. and last night I figured it was a good time to hit the highway to check out the higher speed ride . Not bad at all , cruises right along and handles well without any vibrations . I was thinking at first that she seemed a bit slower until I thought "hey dummy , your speedo is off with the 32's" . Hit 65mph on the speedo , which calculated to about 75mph from the stock 235/70/15 , fast enough for an old fart like me ! More than enough to tow the duck boat . I may take the "long way" to work this evening , a route that would take me down some farm roads along the CT River floodplain . They're not real bad this time of year but there are always a few spots that will give me a much better handle on the 4wd capability now vs. when the truck was bone stock .

Well , I think I'm about 98% done ! Had all the control arm bushings replaced with the split poly ones , what a difference ! I think the CV binding issue is resolved (knock on my wooden head) , just minor stuff now and cosmetics . Happy happy !

Yeah , I had lurked for quite a while before actually doing anything to the truck and knew that going 3" could be a problem . I had seen where some CV shafts had worked for one person but not the other and it could end up being a "what if" situation It seems that changing out the EMPI part with the remanufactured NAPA part did the trick . I drove it 10 miles or so after the switch with the hubs locked and in 2wd and the binding isn't there now . 4wd works , no binding . Thanks everyone for your input !

After installing the AC 2" lift with AC 1" strut spacers and Mile Marker locking hubs on my 1996 XE 4wd , it seems that the right (passenger) side CV axle is binding but the left side is fine ? Just got off the phone with my mechanic friend who has the truck up on the lift right now . I'm going to look at the problem in a few , but as he explains it , when he turns the right wheel with the hubs locked the shaft binds about 3 times for each revolution of the wheel , causing the differential to move each time it binds . Both CV axles were changed out when the lift was installed using new EMPI parts from Rockauto . I'm thinking I might stop by NAPA on the way over and try switching the right side out with a NAPA part . Any suggestions other than that ? The mechanic seems to think that the angles on each side are the same , could it be something to do with the Mile Marker hub on the right side ?

I just went through the whole tire shopping deal . While I accumulated parts over a period of months , I'll bet I looked at just about every major internet tire site . In the end I went with a local chain store and I don't feel I would have saved much if any $$$ doing otherwise . The combination of shipping , mounting , and balancing fees pretty much ate up the approximate $40.00 I'd have saved on each tire . Add in the convenience of buying face to face 2 miles away from my font door and also keeping a few bucks circulating "locally" . I live 25 miles away from a Tirerack warehouse and the shipping was still $118.00 , then I had to find an installer and pay them .

Yeah , I figure I'm just about there . I believe I found the correct hub centering rings , once they come and I'm sure they fit I think I'm going to have a set made from high grade aluminium . Ordered the bushing kit , still need to check the CV's . I'm thinking I may take out the strut spacers , I like the look but if they're a problem I can live with the rake .

Who sells the adjustable rear links ? I saw Fleurys made them and had it in my mind I'd buy them from him if needed , but it seems he's not building them anymore . The bushings are shot , both upper and lower and they're next on the list . Think they may be adding to the axle looking pulled forward ? There are bugs to be worked out but I'm pretty much past the point of no return . I do like it even with the glitches still needing addressed , it's a completely different vehicle thats for sure !

Thanks ! Had you driven that truck before all the recent work you'd understand the name....

You think its the CV's making the noise ? I had a torn boot on the right side before replacing them , it was torn for a long time . When I'd use 4wd and make a tight low speed left turn I could hear what sounded like the splines clicking/chattering on the right side . This sound is different , and you can feel it through the pedals . I locked the hubs and put it in 4h , got the front wheels on some uphill gravel and turned the wheel to full lock right and left while slowly inching forward and there was no noise like before . Then I put it back in 2wd with the hubs locked and drove it about 30 yards on pavement . It sounded different , more like something interfering in the hub , once per each tire revolution . One thing I noticed about the hubs while locking and unlocking them , was that there is a clear click when moved to the unlocked position but no click when they were moved to the lock position . The CV's are definitely angled more than before . No camera right now (dropped it in an old cranberry bog duck hunting) , took those pics with low tech phone . I'll see if I can get a decent pic of the CV's when the sun shines tomorrow . Thanks for the compliment on the new look !

Dog cookies.... I have a rep with every dog I've ever met , they know I always have a box ! Varmints they are , varmints....

Took some pics today , for some reason my computer won't accept the one taken of the view from the front though . I never did get any "before" shots , but she looked like any other R50 with a sagging suspension . Had to take off all the mud flaps and still need to do some basic trimming . Still things to do like the trailing arm bushings , trying to find out what the correct sized hub centric to lug centric spacers are , find out what the "click" is from the new hubs when they're locked (in or out of 4wd) , hit the bumpers , tire carrier , and maybe the hubs with Plasti Dip , etc..... Side.... Rear.... Rear tire in relation to flare.... Front tire in relation to the flare.... Different angle of the side view , kinda fuzzy 'cause of the crazy Beagle that kept jumping up on me looking for cookies....

I was waiting for that ! I will get pics , she looks pretty good ! Still dirty , weather beaten , and more work to do but way better ! I will get pics.....

Got the tires and wheels put on today , you weren't kidding.....

Sorry to dredge up an older thread , but I want some of these metal hub spacers for my '96 XE with Pro Comp 51's , what is the correct size ?

Not meaning to hijack , but this question kinda ties in to one I have . Has anyone ever noticed a slight flexing of the right rear body where the carrier mounts when swinging out the carrier with a tire mounted ?

I'm no expert but I learned something after looking at my newly lifted '96 yesterday . I put 31's on the stock 15" XE wheels 50,000 miles ago with no lift . There was minimal rubbing at full lock , can't say exactly what was rubbing 'cause it happened so rarely I never bothered to look . Being that I'm no mechanic , I would look at AC's "warning" that to run 31's with the lift you'd need wheels with 3.75" backspacing and scratch my head thinking "I'm running them on stock suspension , why would I need new wheels with the lift ?" . Well , now I know.... With the stock wheels and coils the spring perch was in a position/angle that allowed it to sit just a bit to the inside of the inner sidewall having just enough room to clear the tire . Now , with the 2" coils and 1" strut spacer it appears that the spring perch location has moved to a position that would preclude running 31's , moving it to where it now sits just above the tread . My worn 31's barely clear the bottom of the spring perch , if they were new with full tread they'd be rubbing the perch at best , at worst it looks like you'd not even be able to mount the wheel/tire combo . I'm thinking that any stock Pathfinder wheel will fit , but with the lift you'll need spacers .

Going to pick her up in an hour or so . Added a pair of outer tie rod ends when my mechanic friend got in there and found a little play . He says it will be an "interesting" ride until it gets a proper alignment.... Stopped at the local tire store yesterday and ordered 5 Cooper STT's , spoke with the manager and showed him the instructions from the camber alignment bolts , he knew right away what they'd be dealing with and said "no problem" . Tires should be in this week and on by the weekend .

It has "about" 140,000 miles , I say about because it shows a bit over 138,000 but has had 31"s on it for the last 50,000 or so . I forgot to take a pic but I'll be back over there tonight and hopefully remember . I picked her up on 1/31/00 with 34,000 , someone had traded her in the day before on a new 2000 . Some have asked why I don't just go out and pick up another truck but they just don't understand....

The day has come.... Dropping off old Beatup96 at my friends shop this morning ! AC 2" kit with KYB's and Bilstein's AC strut spacers Camber adjustment kit New CV shaft assemblies Mile Marker hubs Power Stop drilled rotors and pads New calipers Inner and outer bearings Valve cover + intake manifold gaskets Cat back from 1A Auto Fix the rear tire carrier latch that hasn't worked in 5 years... Probably some more parts in all those boxes I'm forgetting . Been accumulating parts since June while she sat pretty much useless due to a totally beat suspension , I'd start her up every few days and tell her I hadn't forgotten about her . You know you've owned a vehicle a long time when you talk to it as if it can hear you... Front end and steering all feel pretty good so I'm hoping there won't be any bad news and more $$$ on parts . Then it's off to the tire shop for new 32's on the new Rock Crawlers !

I have the upper intake manifold gasket , is there a part number for the blowby hose ? Better yet , do you have it in stock along with the hoses and vacuum lines that Rebelord mentioned , and the OEM knock sensor ?

I'm having my valve cover gaskets replaced , so we'll have the upper intake manifold off . What else is under there that I might consider replacing while things are apart ? 1996 3.3 with 140,000 miles .

I'm not too concerned about it looking "bleh" , I'd actually be looking for something somewhat "bleh" . I've got a "bad wheel" of the human type , and the mud brown color with a few tan accents done in a non reflective finish might let me park a little closer to the goose pit....

How many cans or gallons of that stuff would it take to do an entire R50 ?