Beatup96

My '96 had Grabbers when I bought it in 2000 , not sure if they're still the same 18 years later but they were a good tire . Good in snow and wore well .

I never measured mine with the AC coils and AC strut spacer , but when "fresh" there is more than 2" rear and 3" front lift . As a disclaimer though , my coils were 17 years old and sagging pretty good before I changed them . Looking at it 10,000 miles later , especially when parked next to a stock height R50 , I'd say the 2" rear and 3" front claims are pretty accurate . I fit 32 x 11.5 STT's on 3.75" backspaced wheels with no trimming , just had to remove the mud flaps on the flares , but I do get some rubbing in reverse or full lock forward turns . I had some CV issues that have gone away since the front settled . I'd consider the difference in ride quality between spacers and AC coils more so than the lift attained . AC coils are stiff and remain so after settling , kinda bone jarring at times . They also seem to alleviate any body roll through corners , with the center of gravity still at a point where it doesn't ever feel "tippy" . Spacers and stock coils should give you a much softer ride but with the added height and softer springs I can't say how it might handle around corners .

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23821-subframe-drop-for-r50/page-1

Wondering the same myself . If I could gain 10-12 hp I'd be happy .

I'd say you have a good package picked out for your intended use . I run the same struts and shocks but with the AC 2" coils and an AC 1" front spacer , it's a pretty stiff combo if the truck will be driven a lot each day . The OME coils , from what I've seen others say , give a better "daily driver" ride just not as much lift . Someone who runs them would know better about the difference between the HD and MD . The trailing arms , when you upgrade your suspension along with those you'll think you're driving a new truck .

I'll check mine for a name tonight , as I remember it they were kinda hard to find back in 2000 when I bought them . You do mean the rubber ones with a lip that contains stuff like snow melt off your boots ?

Mine looks better in pics than in person . It's faded from never being waxed and has some rust becoming noticeable in the usual places . The interior is pretty good 'cause the first thing I bought back in 2000 were seat covers and a full set of the "tray" style mats . It looked pretty bad before I started throwing $$$ at it last November . Runs great though (knock on wood) , and it gets driven much harder now....

Guns and fat mallards... Next to stock cousin... Fresh AC coils....

Interesting that you've had the recall work done and it's already that rusted . Please do update with pics when you're done with the repairs .

Those are what I have , I also did all new calipers , pads , and rotors and they fit fine . They will fit over the manual hubs .

I don't quite understand the exhaust manifold issue . One of mine was replaced at about 75,000 'cause it was cracked . I seem to remember something about the hot exhaust gasses causing the manifold to crack if revved past 3000 before everything came up to temp on a cold start , and only in frigid weather . Didn't Nissan fix this at some point before they went to the VQ35 ?

I replaced the exhaust on my '96 with one of these , for a whole lot less than $650.00.... http://www.1aauto.com/complete-cat-back-exhaust-system/i/1aemk00056?f=573068&y=1999&utm_campaign=gb_csv_br&utm_content=EMK&gclid=CJz58uvygcACFeRj7Aod-DUAYw It's a "cat back" for California standards , you'll see that for the "normal" models it does not come with the connecting pipes used in place of the extra cats on California vehicles . I was able to use my old pipes , if this is the pipe that broke on your truck they go for about $60.00 each IIRC . I'm satisfied with it , it's only been on for 10 months/6000 miles but it was a straight forward bolt on replacement and it was CHEAP . Sounds just like stock .

I'd just do the 2" in the front if you do AC coils in the rear , see how it looks first . 2.5" may give you a "reverse rake" , not many yet have done that combo so it's hard to say . If you are going to run 12.5" tires there is going to be trimming involved anyway , the extra .5" may not really matter .

I'm no mechanic and I don't do manual transmissions unless they're on a motorcycle , but I'll throw an idea out there for those who have actual knowledge.... Maybe he fried/buggered the clutch interlock switch ? Not sure exactly how they work , does the starter turn if the switch goes ?

I'm no mechanic , but it sounds like when my distributor went

Not sure about that strap , it's been a while since I've been under my back seat . I'll take a look in a bit . Did you lift the rear seat yet ? The jack and associated pieces are stored there .

Did the previous owner give you much info on it ? Seems like it may have been the "winter/dog carrier" vehicle and probably was kept garaged it's entire life .

Damn.... I keep my little Corolla car pretty clean , but my truck is a "neatnik nightmare" ! I work with a guy who does detailing , real nice work . He bought a 2002 Xterra in late 2001 , to date it has under 15,000 miles on it . He gets after me to let him do my Pathfinder , and I tell him.... "Kenny , there are things in there that will scar you for life !" . Years of duck blood , mud , sand , feathers.... It's like the fine patina on an old shotgun to me , take it off and what do you have ? First thing I bought for it back in 2000 was a full set of the "tray" style mats , 'cause I knew what was gonna happen !

If it's as clean as it looks it has a whole lotta life left in it . Cute kid !

Put me on the list of "thinks Theexbrit's truck is the coolest" too...

You'll get some rubbing at full lock in forward motion , it'll be a bit worse in reverse . You can trim up some plastic in the wheel wells if that's the case , there are threads on what to do . I just put up pics on the other thread .

Most who run 31's or taller are running 8" wheels with 3.75" back spacing . IIRC those who've run 10" wheels have had problems , there is a thread around here somewhere on it . Going above 31's will need some lift and 3.75" back spacing to clear the strut perch . Be aware that these wheels will push the tires well past the fenders in a truck with no flares . My next set of tires should my truck outlast the 32/11.5 STT's on it now will be 33/10.5's .

I put 50,000 miles on a set of 31's mounted on stock 6.5" steel rims , it's at the low end of recommended wheel width but it drove fine . OEM tires were 235/70 General Grabbers ,

While pricing parts once on Rockauto , I saw two steering racks for R50's . One is for trucks "without flares" and one for trucks "with flares" , the latter being a good bit more expensive . Left me scratching my head and thinking "I'll figure that one out when I need a steering rack"...

265/70r15 tires should read correctly on the speedo if it came with them stock , if wider wheels change the circumference I suspect the difference would be minimal . 235/75r15 tires would make your speedo run a little low like you say . Mine came stock with 235/75r15 tires , I put 31's on the stock steel wheels and had a little rubbing at full lock but not too bad . My speedo ran slower with the 31's . I've since gone to 32's with the AC lift and 3.75" wheels and they do stick out , I'd think 31's on 4" wheels would come pretty even with the flares . Probably minimize rubbing too . I can't offer anything on the 8" wheel fitting the spare tire well .