ferrariowner123

The one that came off was not Nissan Branded, so what your saying would actually make sense. Hoping i can rent a timing light from somewhere, and the timing marks are the harmonic balancer right? is zero the farthest left (when looking at the car from the front) and 15º is the farthest to the right? And the noise is a whirring sound. and we did have to put the tensioner on a little bit more than the first time, but it was so we could get the belt on enough. In the step by step thread it told us to not let be able to flex past 90º when moving it. and it didn't make a whirring sound the first time we put the belt on. thanks for the help i hope i can get this fixed.

Well, i have a little bit of an update, it was a tooth off, i counted 39 teeth, from our first job, so it was between the cams, (to answer pathfounder's question);. So we sorted it all out, got 40 teeth, but weird problem was there was no marking on the block for us to line the crank. so took out a spark plug, did the dowel trick, (which is super inaccurate in my opinion) but got to what "looked close" to 5 O'Clock on the crank gear, got the belt on put all back together, ran into a long process of trying to get it started. Problem one: started with one of the bolts that hold the lower half of the timing gear dust shield on, was stripped, and rubbing against the harmonic balancer, preventing the engine from turning fast enough to start. So at this point were like "*my "vocabulary" is so small* IT" and we cut it off, one stubborn bolt! Problem two: Turns out, one of the injectors was not plugged in. (probably been like that from the first attempted) Plugged that in, continued diagnosing. Problem three: In the process of trying to identify problem one, we flooded the engine. So we took the fuse for the fuel pump out, cycled the engine, re-installed fuse, started right up. Sounded great. Let it warm up and burn that old fuel out. So at this point, i breath a sigh of relief cause im done with this beast at this point. Problem four: And this were im actually started to get incredibly frustrated. After getting the engine going, gave it some revs, made this bizarre sound. The only thing i can compare it to is my grandma's early model Subaru Legacy, but only when revved, at idle, you cant hear it all. We though it might have been one of the serpentine belts were on too tight, went through that process and no change. Mechanic buddy thinks it from having all of the coolant on the tensioners. Drove it this morning, still makes the sound. To be honest, i think its it part of timing system. because it sounds like its coming directly from the timing tensioner, or is it possible to have the timing belt rubbing on something? Problem five: This is also an extreme annoyance. On my drive home, i noticed that the car has more power than it our initial fix, but has WAY less than before we even started. Like 50% less. Before this whole thing, it was torquy and pulled great, now its slow and i have to rev it higher than before to get through the gears. Example: i have a large hill to get up, for me to get home, use to be able to get it up it no problem in fourth, now i have to do it in third, foot to the floor and now it wont go past 3 grand (ish) on the revvs. So im out of ideas, i went around to my local shops to see if i could an idea and the general agreement was its still just a little bit out of time of its a vacuum leak. So i tried to see if there was any lines i forgot to plug back in when i removed the intake manifold. I found nothing. Now im gonna drive it, back as my daily, because it still runs, and gets from a to b. But im really hoping that someone can come through with a clear answer for me. Don't really wanna borrow money from parents to get this fixed. And as for my mechanic friend, im done with him, not really gonna talk to him anymore. Appreciate any feedback, really need some help. Thanks guys. -Kyle

So im sitting in the beast now, got the belt fixed, wha hey, it was a tooth off. But not its not starting, mechanic friend thinks its because of one of the dust shield bolts is rubbing against the harmonic balancer, idk, in the process of fixing it now. Send me good vibes, i need it!!!! -Kyle

okay, well then without knowing a specific issue with a specific cylinder, how can find out which side is out of time? do we just put everything at top dead center, count how many teeth there are and if it's good between both cams and crank, ill know im good? Also do you know what the engine sounded way better when i installed the new plugs wires? could my previous problems be a combination of out of time and bad plug wires? Also wanted to say thank you for all of the help you have given me, i appreciate your patience, needs to be more of you in the world!! Thanks again, to everyone that helped!!! -Kyle

Well we moved everything into TDC, first took the belt off, and then adjusted the cams from there. That's okay right? And as far as the CEL, we only got a generic "random misfire" or P0300. I wish it gave me a bank but it didn't. But if the passenger cam was out of time for example, wouldn't that cause that side of the engine to misfire, making a random misfire CEL make sense?

Alright, thanks for tip. yes that thing, it's not been my week, I'm all out of wack, I borrowed my sisters integra, and left the lights on while out school. It could be worse, but it's insult to injury at this point, lol. And a bit of a little update, NGK's came, put them on, honestly the car ran way better, but still sputters and has that weird noise near the EGR. So timing belt check scheduled for Thursday. Really hoping it just one tooth off. -Kyle

Alright, i think im ready to takle it, now does anyone have a recommendation an efficient way to move this parts without damaging anything. I read in that step by step guide that if you have a manual you can use the drive line to your advantage? im assuming that only works when trying to the thing that goes on the crank (totally blanking on the name) -Kyle

Oh heck yeah!!! wow, i cant believe i missed that in the service manual, thanks man, im gonna try and get this fixed!!! Thanks guys!!! Really appreciate everything!! -Kyle

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bj9ia97AQk&feature=youtu.be So here is the video, hopefully just reconfirms what we already think. I focused in on the EGR valve because that's where a new and different noise was coming from, hopefully the audio is of good enough quality for everyone to make out what was going. Thanks again -Kyle

Okay you are really gonna have to bear with me on this. So im going to line up the cams at the dimple points. count how many teeth on the timing belt itself are between the two dimple points? And i have no idea what you mean about ignition timing, is this related to the distributor? and the CEL problem you had with your dads pathy was exactly what was happening with mine, Flashing (atleast it was) at idle, but then at highway speed, went solid. Thanks for the info -Kyle

^^^^Shoot me a PM, I have a zipped version of it.(I'm on my phone otherwise I'd send it now) but nicoclub, has an in browser version as well.

So I'm physically counting the number of teeth on the timing belt and it has to be an exact amount on between the cams, and the crank gear? Does anyone know where in the FSM the timing is? (on my phone) and I won't be touching my dizzy. So to summarize, I'm ripping everything back off, and checking the tooth count, and prey I did everything right? Why doesn't it mentioned this on the timing belt walk through thread? Anything else worth mentioning before I rip everything out? Can I reuse the coolant that drain out? It's brand new anyway. I'm still going to post a video today. I want to be triple sure. Thanks for all the help guys. I owe everyone a big hug. -Kyle

Does the timing gun help identify which is out of time, weather its the crank or cams? and ill post a video tomorrow after school. And how in the heck did you twist the distributor by hand? is there some place in FSM about doing that? Thanks for the help! -Kyle

i feel we should create a forum game to stump the internet on obscure automotive related studies, lol Thanks Town, appreciate it man.

YAY i love studies showing the best stuff. They need to print these on the side of the boxes. Thanks for the info guys.

im going to assume dizzy cap means distributor cap? (been a long day) and i guess ill start there, and this might sound like a super noob question, but what piston is what number? i honestly have no idea. and you can move the distributor rotor? im going to go with its not easy? didn't budge for me (but not really trying to move it). I did have my car is gear while i was doing the belt change, (didn't really work, still had a ton of slope) And how long should the ECU take? because its probably ran a total of 35 minutes give or take since the change. What is the black magic you speak of? EDIT: i have some new info. I forgot to mention that, while i was driving home, the check engine light was flashing (low speed) and then when i jumped on the freeway and made it up to speed, it went solid, and then when i slowed down, (off the freeway) it started flashing, any ideas? Also, i started it today, and i started hearing a weird rattle, near the EGR side of the intake (Honestly i thought it was the EGR, but i don't know what to listen for, but it never made this noise before). and the engine is not as smooth as it sounded yesterday after getting it running. When we first started up it sounded fine, when you were standing over the engine bay, the way we knew it was misfiring, was the exhaust and revving it. unfortunately i don't have access to the code reader anymore, so i cant find out if i have any new codes. but ill will report when I get the problem fixed. Would a video help for you guys? i take a quick one and post it up here. Thanks again. -Kyle

Hey all, So i did my timing belt, water pump, tensioner, valve cover gaskets, and intake manifold gaskets yesterday, and all went well on that end, fixing a small timing issue, everything back together and appears to be running well. However, my issues began when after getting the car going again. At first, it wouldn't start,shot out an error code, initially of p1320 i believe, (distributor ignition interpreted). After some trial and error, eventually got it going, but man it was idling horribly, sounded like i just did a cam kit. It gave us a random misfire (P0300) and while were disabling the intake manifold i removed the distributor cap and wires, whilst doing so, one of the boots broke, causing use to break of the wires where it connects to the spark plug. So we fixed it to the best our abilities, and ran a little bit better. and i was able to limp home with NO POWER.EDIT: I just found out that a p0300 is actually a multiple cylinder misfire, which makes me think more and more that i did put the wire on in the incorrect way. Source; EC-172 in the FSM So im over nighting a new NGK kit hoping this will solve my problems, but i was hoping i could get a diagram for the distributor plug leads, basically what wire from what spark plug goes to what plug end on the distributor cap. (Really hoping that made sense) so that i can check and see if i might have plugged the wires in wrong, i never disconnected them from the distributor cap themselves, but im just trying to rule out anything and everything, because i really don't want to replace the distributor itself. Is there anything else it could be? anything else i should rule out? I am very confident that the timing is not the issue, everything was TDC when the belt was put on, and i followed the step by step guide to a T!!! we made triple sure the cams lined up the dimples, and that the crank lined up with the factory pen marks on the crank gear. and yes, i did check the service manual, there wasn't anything jumping out at me. maybe i over looked something. EDIT: Changed the title to hopefully get some more answers. Open to any suggestions. Check out post #4 some more info from me UPDATE #2: so it turns out I was a tooth off, but now it's down on power, I'm told it's either ignition timing or off a tooth between the cams and the cranks. Keep reading for more info? Thanks guys. -Kyle

Wait, Fram filters are no good?

How man miles were on the old coils? Im curious for my lift. And where did you order it from? Thanks man, get some pics up soon!! --Kyle

Yeah, thanks man, appreciate help, and i do remember reading that, but completely forgot it was on NPORA. -Kyle

For which build?

That right there, thats embarrassing. -Kyle

To anyone who hasn't seen this.... Its truly amazing!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53c6o_cNPEo&feature=my_favorites&list=FLX1spaLJuxuEC0avM_aoflw

So i was bored, and thought i would look at a possible next car, love the look of the 240sx's that are JDM'ed to look like S14's, long story short is i came across this over at NICO http://forums.nicoclub.com/zach-s-build-thread-t470446.html Its an incredibly well done VH45 V8 swap, and a very good read (or scroll through if you have ADOSS, like me) and this got me thinking, and in a bad way. Why have't i seen anyone do this, i know there isn't a ton of R50 guys on here, but i feel like everyone on NPORA is more than capable of doing something like this. So whats stopping everyone? Now i know my lack of experience is talking so far out my arse its in the next county, but bare with me. I have no idea how much time and effort goes into one of these. lol -Kyle

Test it out, wont know till someone tries and reports back. I would to get more performance, 3.3 piece of crap sitting my engine bay. -Kyle