ferrariowner123
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Posts posted by ferrariowner123
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Love that last one, love the green and mud combo, should have been a factory option!
Might have missed it, but what else is in store for her, or at least planned?
-Kyle
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Same too on the R50's right? It just triggers the gauges on the dash when the resistance is met?
-Kyle
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uhh, forgive my ignorance but why would you three link an already 4 linked rear? and i think Heim joints were what fluerys was using but he was having corrosion issues.
-Kyle
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I bled everything atleast 5 times now. And that going until there is no signs of air, following the service manuals bleeding procedure.
And gotcha, makes sense.
Thanks for the help. I'm gonna order another new master and try again, and if that doesn't work, I'm by passing the dampener.
-Kyle
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When my knock sensor had legit failed, iwas getting 10 MPG, so yes, you will notice some performance issues with the car. I vaguely remember there being something about how some other problem has a tendency to throw not only it's code, but a knock sensor as well. Can't remember, what exactly it was, a search around the forums would be a wise idea, considering all that's left is the KNOCK CEL.
-Kyle
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Do you think by passing it would help make it stiffer? And is this what they mean when companies list HD pressure plates, heavy Springs in the pressure plate making it harder to disengage but also harder to slip when towing?
-Kyle
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Haha, yeah, I guess you got a point there Haha.
I just miss my firm pedal, im getting use to it being soft. But I still don't like it. I went to change out the master and realized I had the wrong one entirely.
But is it possible that my new pressure plate is just easier to engage?
Also, what are some ways I can firm up the pedal? I've heard SS lines help with pedal feel on brakes, can the same be said of clutch? Would bypassing the dampener help with pedal feel, I.e. Make it firmer?
-Kyle
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I call dibs on testing!
Any plans for making adjustable ones again? I know there are few guys who want or adjust the rear axle location after a lift.
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Love the layout of this thread, we should make everyone follow this thread style. maybe add "what I think it is", "what parts I've changed trying to kill this stupid noise".
As for being somewhat helpful, I'm not sure what I have to offer other than asking some probing question.
How you removed the door card and visually looked for damaged window parts, does the window work and function normally? I'm running on a hunch that something in the regulator might be broken.
Other than that, check all of the Trans, and diff mounts, Rob told me a whole ago that blown from diff mounts are a common issue on R50's but make a different sound that what I described to him. Still check it while your down there.
Keep us posted.
-Kyle
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Let me know if you need help finding it. AC's Site is fairly intuitive though, you should be able to figure it out. Let us know how it goes!
-Kyle
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Summit Carries the ACD one, but its $450 before the $100 core, so $100 more than the cardone, or any of the others. IDK, its up to you.
Part number for the ACD rack is on their website, plug it into Summit and it will come up.
-Kyle
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Looks like Nissan changed it between our year models, hence why i can still see my AC delco unit for my 96' and you cant for you 01'.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_search_result.php?keywords=[49001]+\(r50&cPath=4700_4701_4815_4822
$1140 for my year steering rack!!!
IDK what id do in your situation. Probably start of doing some research on the brands and see what you can find, its mostly positive, give them a try, your kinda stuck unless you can find a ACdelco rack.
I should point out the only reason i somewhat like ACD is because they are the OEM provider for GM vehicles, including the sports cars like the vette. and have heard some good things here and there. I'm slowly trying them out more and more on easily serviceable parts (like the rear sway bar links) so if they crap out earlier than expected, i'm not out a lot of cash, or time.
When going OEM is just too ridiculous, which it often is, this is what were stuck with.
Just my
EDIT: Per CDN_S4's suggestion, i will go with a new/remaned part, i just found that Summit Racing carries the same ACD rack for $215 (plus the $100 for a core.) But im much more willing to give them my core money than Rockauto. EDIT AGAIN: DANGIT was looking at the wrong one, apparently manufactures think there are different version, and label one R&P for the XE model, and one R&P for the SE model. Not sure why as Nissan only lists one for the 96-98 years...
-Kyle
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That's actually very clever, simple, cheap and effective.
Btw. How have those poly bushings help up? Mine are finally blown in the rear and I'm running through my options, I really like the "set and forget" of rubber/stock but the durably of Poly, but don't they need to be greased periodically? And I've heard they ride a little stiffer, is that true?
Hate to thread jack. Pm xplorer if you would be so kind. Thanks.
-Kyle
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Well I have been added to those affected now. I bought a clutch master back in December and only just got around to installing into it. The only that's right about it, is it's bore, everything else is wrong. Has a remote resoviour, studs instead of bolt through, and the output is in totally the wrong place. They pulled the "return policy" is thirty days.
But I think those are only for customer screw ups, I feel like this should be different, the box it came in was right but the product was wrong, whatever. It's only thirty bucks. But I've pretty much all but switched over to Amazon now. Ships faster and for cheaper. And now that top gear is going to be on amazon, I have an actual reason to own prime, so hello and welcome 2 day shipping! Lol
-Kyle
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I looked on rockauto and I'd rather get the AC Delco part, I have heard way too many bad stories about Cardone parts, and having a Cardone brake master fail on buddy after 6 months. So yeah, plus the Delco one is only little more, my concern is with the core. Because I just added my name the list of people having issues with rockauto.
Well see, it works now, and I don't drive it that much.
-Kyle
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There were a couple of overlap years before the last of the VG's left the pathfinder. Late production 2000 pathfinders could have a VQ.
-Kyle
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I sorta figured, but no has said that after they changed there's they saw improvements. So I struggle to want to go through the process of changing them out. Snapped bolts and what not.Probably letting air in before your o2 sensors. Causing them to show that it's running lean. And dumping extra gas in to compensate.
-Kyle
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I seem to have a similar "thud" or "pop" coming from my steering when I turn the wheel. It feels like it's from the left strut, so I disassembled it yesterday, put in an new strut mount and bearing ($35CAD) reassembled everything, doing a much better job than the first time when I did it very poorly lol. However, while some sounds are gone, the "pop" in the steering is still there. A remanufactured rack and pinion from A1Cardone only costs $220 USD, and at least then you know the state of it, plus get a 3 year warranty. My concern with a JY one would be that you have no way of knowing if it's not damaged or even worse than yours. I'm sure you would hate to find out after spending hours under your truck. Plus the new racks usually come with inner tie rods.
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Yeah, I don't like the idea of a junkyard one either, I'm warming up to a rebuilt unit but just don't have the cash. My rear trailing arms are blown and my window cracked on a chip that's been on the window since I have owned it. Plus the Z is bleeding my dry, so yeah I'm broke. Lol
But whatever, not much I can do.
-Kyle
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I have steel wheels also, and 33's. I only have a VG. Wish it was a VQ
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Jeez what the heck am I doing wrong? I don't really do alot of highway driving. My main commute is down a big Hill than back up it. But my exhaust manifolds are cracked, but I struggle to see that being such a huge issue. I average around 13 ish.
Grrrrr
-Kyle
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What have you serviced? And is it water or coolant mix? And are you sure you're bleeding all the air out? VQ's (if I remember correctly) are a little harder to bleed than VG's. I had that issue when my coolant level was too low and had the A/C on.
-Kyle
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Fluerys use to make an option, but lack of sales and his Un happy results on his rig cause him to stop production. So unless you want to develop something of your own, your kinda stuck. But how hard could it be? For you're needs you just need some square tubing and some tubing that's the same as the stock bushings, weld it on at each ends and boom super strong lowers which is all you need.
-Kyle
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Hey guys,
Im currently hunting down rust in my project 77 Z, and i removed the Wiper linkage assembly and the motor that sit under the cowl area. Its in pretty rough shape as is the steal in the cowl itself, but thats for another time. What i need is a diagram and part numbers so i can get in touch with a dealer somewhere, that has some of the misc pieces i need.
I've tried many times to get a working copy of FAST, and well with my recent plunge into Win 10, i don't see that happening anytime soon.
Anyway, hope someone out there has a screen shot they can snap for me.
Much appreciated.
-Kyle
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I actually just did mine about 2 weeks ago, trying to solve a clunk in the steering. Symptom was a clunk when slightly turning the wheel, engine on, but not moving.
Changed the outers first, then the inners a few weeks later, i don't recommend this and its a HUGE PIA.
I had no idea there was a tool that could be used to get the inners off the rack, i just popped the rack out mounts far enough (after removing the sway bar mounts, and zip tieing the sway bar up and out of the way) to get a universal wrench on the inners. This of course is much better when you have a buddy to help hold the rack in place. (hopefully not a buddy like mine who somehow figured out how to strip the M14 X 1.5 bolts that hold the rack in, taps are awesome, lets just leave it at that.)All while you reef on the likely 15 year old parts. My car has never been in a salt state, and has very little rust, but even then, the parts needed some serious convincing to come out.
Make sure that you either count how many turns the outer tie rods turn on to the inner tie rods, or just match the lengths with everything off the car. I messed up a little and had my tires squealing going around corners, happily, its only 9 miles to my closest's alignment center.
That being said, it did not solve my clunk, it did stop my steering wheel wobbling at freeway speeds, and because of the alignment, straightened out my JDM MOMO steering wheel so its now level. But according the guys at les schwab, the noise is coming from my steering rack. So, i think im gonna hit the junkyard for one of those. hopefully find a good one, i really don't want to spend the couple hundred its most likely going to be on a new one. Im just happy that its SUPER easy to get access to the rack.
Hope that helps, let us know if you have any questions.
-Kyle
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Just for reference, this is my crappy photo of where the knock sensor is in its stock location, it's designed to detect a knocking engine (go figure, lol) so it's best if it's mounted as close as it can to do its job better. While the relocation is tempting, it's just not my cup of tea.
it sits between cylinder 3 and 5 on the left hand side on the base of the block.
-Kyle
Having Clutch done...replace transmission damper?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
I think they are serviceable, I've seen seen part break downs of whats inside that little box.
I just recently did my clutch (don't blame you for wanting a garage to do, but considering how expensive labor is around me,i did it myself and avoided about $750 in additional labor!)
But as Precise1 eloquently put, they are often deleted, and don't really affect performance, just there for pedal feel. I've thought about deleting mine, but i want to put my new master before going and deleting anything. I would just leave it, unless it has obvious signs of failure.
And i feel like you are going through clutches rather quickly. i bought my 96 with 100K 5 years ago next month and my clutch disk still had a good amount of life left when i changed it at 150K. AND it had NISSAN/ EXCEDY stamped on the plate. which means it was serviced by a dealer before i bought it, or it had never been changed (doubtful but still possible). I changed mine because i could feel slipping after changes and poor changes (trans would grind and wasn't as smooth when i first got it). Well its been about a month since my change and i'm starting to feel the slipping again, so i'm gonna throw my new Sachs master in and PRAY that fixes it.
I would look into servicing some of the main hydraulic components before changing the dampener. Things like the slave, master, and even the soft-line should and will go before the dampener. I've heard from a couple of experienced mechanic friends that the master will start going bad before the clutch. Don't know how true that is, but its a $30 Sachs replacement (Sachs is an OEM provider for BMW, and its been good to me, i replaced everything with either Sachs or OEM parts with my clutch).
Another recommendation is getting new flywheel bolts with your new flywheel (really good idea BTW, considering that it would (SHOULD) have been resurfaced with each clutch change). But the bolts are designed to stretch and tension on the part they are holding and are single use item. You can get them from any dealer, you'll need six, should you decide to go that route, i can suggest our own Nissan parts man, Rob, hit up the vendors thread and look for the "Genuine parts" thread, you'll want to call the dealer and ask for him, usually a better way to get a hold of him.
But that's all i got, hope it goes well, sounds like you've got a good hold on it though. You're definitely wise to question about replacing certain parts, because with anything they will fail.
Let us know if you need anything else.
-Kyle