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ferrariowner123

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Posts posted by ferrariowner123

  1. If the dash shows the engine is getting up to temperature, and it's blowing cold air (like no hint of warm air), it's not the thermostat.

     

    If your not leaking coolant inside or out, I would gather it's the core. I have replaced some chasing interior coolant leaks, but never had one fail on me. Maybe someone with more experience on the topic can chime in.

     

    -Kyle

  2. Welcome bro, and also welcome to the "elite" and exclusive club of R50 Rear Swing Away owners club. lol

     

    As was stated, nice looking rig, ours are very similar except i covet that color of green like its nobody's business!! :lmao:

     

    once again, welcome

     

    -Kyle

  3. I just did this a week ago took so long i only managed to get the upper two done, just did the lower two arms last night, shes drives so nice now, even with the poly upgrade i did. While the arm in question was the absolute WORST to get to, i managed to get it off with a craftsmen breaker bar with the 19mm on to the nut, the bar will go a hair past 90º and that was enough to get the bar in the super narrow gap.A HEALTHY coating of PB Blaster (or penetrating oil of your choice) is a must. Like i said, i was a bear, but that's how i did it. Just make sure not to smash your hand into the load sensing valve hard lines that will be directly below.

     

    -Kyle

    • Like 1
  4. Anybody know what to expect from parts yard pricing for them if you do find one?

     

    I bought Andy's (theexbrit) swing away, for $50, and shipped it to his company for like $63 or something like that? (it was HEAVY! 50-60 lbs, i think?) and then he paid me for my time i think he was in it all said and done for $150. They are cheap, and i see them at yards, all the time. The yard i bought andy's from has at-least a half dozen pathy's on hand at any given moment, and "usually" has one with a swing away but its been well over a year since i've been to that yard so it could be a different story now.

     

    I want to say that the swing away's are "popular" up here in the PNW, but i really haven't lived anywhere else to claim that with any amount of certainty. Early models in general are becoming few and far between on the roads. The late models are becoming more popular on the roads. Probably because they are cheap enough for people to use them as beaters or give them to their kids as first cars, which was the case behind my 96. :happy:

     

    I'm actually thinking about freshening up mine as its really showing signs of its age. Contemplating having it sand blasted, and then powder coated, for a nice and durable finish. That or paint it with POR-15, and then stone chip over that... something along those lines.

     

    -Kyle

  5. I have home link but it won't work with the newer state scram jet code whatever, garage door openers I think it's because they introduced that feature in 96, and mine was made in 95.

     

    You can also do this by buying a home link rear view mirror or retrofitting in the stock location, C5 Corvette guys do it all the time. The only down side is having to have a upholstery shop stitch the visor back together.

     

    -Kyle

  6. This is thread is weirdly timed as i just replaced my upper trailing arm bushings. Would have done all 4 arms, but man these are a pain to change, so that's all i ended up having time for.

     

    But at any rate, here is the blown mess that was left of my bushing, i was able to push out the collars with my fingers! :lmao::lmao: Pic does not do it justice as to how bad these things were! lol

     

    23458743042_dd0296ace7_c.jpg

     

    -Kyle

    • Like 1
  7. Its not that the socket is the same, its that the harnesses male plug fits into the female plug on the side marker, the sockets themselves are very different, as well as the bulb size. The side markers are not very bright, i went 4 years before i finally noticed that one was out. :fail:

     

    -Kyle

  8. That was really hard to follow. But i think the question is will the JB weld cause a different color? Most likely, You're better off painting them. The heavy duty wheels and flappers are no ideal as they might scratch. Generally when prepping any surface for refinishing you want to start with a high grit (sandpaper or disk) to take the large imperfections (if any, if there is none, skip this part) and then working your way to softer paper to smooth out the surface and remove any of the marks made but the heavy grit wheels and papers.

     

    This a fairly decent video explaining to how repair rashed wheels.

     

     

    EDIT: Next time, don't make another thread with a clarifying question, just post again in your first thread. Thank you!

     

    -Kyle

  9. Yeah, i can sympathize, it kinda sucks, all that work and its worse than before, but fear not, its maybe 30 minutes to and hour more of time before you can get your stereo where you want it.

     

    Like i said originally, bypassing the amp gives the stock speakers the full power of the head unit, which isn't much but i think its more than what the stock one outputs (don't quote me). Its really easy to do, just find the FSM, go to audio in the EL section, find the pinouts for the amp, figure what color wires are inputs and which are outputs, splice the matching ones together and presto, no more volume issues. In theory at-least. The amp resides in the back of the car, on the drivers side, so you'll need to pop out the drivers side cargo paneling, its all just pop clips, just be careful putting it back, its really easy to miss align the pin and crush them rendering them pretty much useless for installation. I would also recommend removing the cargo anchor point closest to the panel, its kinda gets in the way. For my 96 its really annoying. they might have changed that on later models.

     

    And to answer your question, new speakers will totally help with sound quality, but quality speakers are a must. I personally love alpine, but haven't tried many other companies, heard great things from Rockford Fosgate, and then the super high ends (Hertz, audison, Macintosh (when then did car audio stuff)). Just pick a decent brand like Kennwood, alpine, or Rockford Fosgate. and i promise you they will sound better than the foam junkers that "Bose" equipped models get.

     

    Let us know if you have any other problems, i'm sure one of us can you give you some advice.

     

    -Kyle

    • Like 1
  10. I just restored all of the interior plastics in my 77 Z, with dupli-color vinyl trim paint, I can't remember exactly what it's called but it worked perfectly. Made all of my faded and over sprayed interior a lovely semi gloss black once again, saved me hundreds from not having to buy all new interior prices again. Even maintained the texturing embedded in the trim.

     

    Drys fast and goes on easy, only had one problem where I put too much in the a pillar trim and I had to toss it, but it's a cheap panel. Doesn't work too well on large areas, I tried it on a fairing and it tiger stripes the whole way across. So keep that in mind. I can try and grab some pics if you'd like.

     

    -Kyle

  11. Ideally you would want to wire around the amp and bypass it at all costs. Get your self a wiring diagram from the Factory Service Manual (which can be found in the "garage" section of the forums) and look for the speaker input and output wires, match side to side and corner to corner so that the fader and balance still work. The factory amp really doesn't push that much wattage and i think most modern decks put out more power.

     

    The amp will severely limit volume range, at least that was my experience.

     

    But i did not need to ground the amp at the stereo or have ever heard of an amp ground wire near the stereo. There should be only one ground up there and that's for the the unit itself. You can sometimes ground the outer casing of the deck as well to help with static or interference issues. Generally, its not needed though. (RESEARCH DONE)I just did some research on the "Amp Ground" apparently its something only scosche kits have. Either way, the site i visited (xterra forum) said that Nissan's don't generally use that. while i don't remember seeing anything, just see if that wire on the adapter kit actually goes to a wire on the factory radio wiring, if its a blank plug, its not used.

     

    If you want to wire the amp in just to prove it works or see if your happy with the results, just wiring the Blue with white stripe wire, (may show up as antenna connect or ANT. CONT) to the amp turn on, will do the trick, but that wire will always be an amp turn on (%99.9 of the time, just to cover my rear). If i remember correctly the antenna (at-least on my SE 1996 model) Didn't get a turn on from the deck. I think it just went up when it detected antenna use? NO idea honestly, but i do not recall a wire from behind the dash that made the power antennas go up or down, if you have a whip antenna (which is what i replaced mine with) this is a non issue.

     

    I have torn apart my dash way too many times and have changed the stereo about 3 times in the 5 years i have had it, so i'm fairly confident of the wires that back there, at-least in the case of my early production 96.

    Hope that answers your question.

     

    -Kyle

     

    • Like 1
  12. Have you check the cold idle solenoid? Sound like it not doing its job very well and messing with the fuel mixture a little too much...

     

    Make sure all your connections are clear of corrosion and any other nonsense that shouldn't be there, grounds especially! Just clean them with some medium grit sandpaper, just enough to give a solid connection.

     

    And just checking here,but have you actually plugged a code reader in, to get the "no codes" claim or is the CEL just not on? Because a faulty, open loop O2 could cause some Fuel/Air issues. maybe the heater circuit failed in one causing the rough, cold running. :shrug: Not sure if something like that would trigger a code, but maybe something to check.

     

    -Kyle

  13. Minded the edit time. Here's what I wanted to ad.

     

    Also IMHO xterra's really didn't age well, while the Gen you and I drove are the better of the first Gens, that plastic of the front fascia and rear bumper faded so hard! Makes them look super old and janky. I maintain that the updated R50's still look fairly modern, some of that was that the R51'S got such a huge redesign it's incredible they kept the name. But that I think it's a nice looking rig, it's not overstated and it's not influenced by the 90's look. Plus an SUV doesn't really have the capability of crazy looks (exception is the juke and bmw X range) but they generally follow the same design cues, the roofline and pillar placement is almost universal. Anyway, I'm rambling.

     

    -Kyle

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