ferrariowner123
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Posts posted by ferrariowner123
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when was the last time the oil was changed? I do have a different engine than yours, however this might be relevant. Mine will have a similar sound when I'm getting close to the regular scheduled oil change, when that is done the noise goes away.
Seriously? Mine has a chattering sound that I have only recently started to hear and get worse and I'm way overdue! Huh, might have to try this today.
Thanks for chiming in!
-Kyle
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Did the purple. Is that a fairly rare color, can't say I have ever seen it!
-Kyle
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Whoa, an R50 owner with the TD27! Or is it the later diesel? Is there anything in the filter area you might have bumped?
-Kyle
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Holy Jebus that looks awesome!!
Making me reconsider part of my conversion.... DAMN YOU!!
Looks awesome dude. Keep it up!
-Kyle
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What? That made little to no sense. Can you try that again, use a little more detail. What light? The light on the dash?
How do you know the alts working again. Are you checking voltages?
-Kyle
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Sounds like you already have your awnser. If you want to be really sure you can check when the smart entrance control systems changed (if at all) and then go from there.
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What wheels are those on the last two?
-Kyle
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Considering all they give you is part numbers. It's stands to reason that if your fob has the matching part number, then it should work.
/thread
-Kyle
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I don't think you are bottoming out, have you actually watched the car bottom out or do you feel the whole car slam into the rear wheels? I think you should a look at your trailing arm bushings, because if you hit a dip In the road at speed, and have blown bushings, that could make a fairly loud noise. Check the arms, and the arm that runs parallel to the rear axle (to blanking on the name right now) if any of those are blown, they will make unpleasant sounds.
Check the rear sway bar links while your at it.
Report back what you find
-Kyle
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Correct if im wrong here Kingman, but pretty much as long you as get one that is from a VG and is 4WD or 2WD (As needed) it will bolt in, right?
-Kyle
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I have a picture of a pathfinder that was in a bad crash. It had a TJM front bumper, let's just say it's didn't fair well. But I don't know the specifics, plus pathys don't do all that well in crash tests in the first place.
I'll post it up when I get home from work.
-Kyle
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Sorry man mine never came with fender flares.
Oh, I thought it did. My mistake.
Hope you find some brackets soon! Progress is looking good!
-Kyle
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If it's the TJM brackets your after, you might be out of luck. The company stopped producing that bumper a long time ago.
You might be able to shoot TJM an email and see if they can make/get you some. But best bet is probably going to be make it yourself or have a shop make it.
-Kyle
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I may have asked you this before, but what did you do with your old fender flares and hardware? Im in the market for some.
-Kyle
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Check the FSM, no matter where it is, it will tell you which is ground and which is signal/power. Should easily found in the garage section.
-Kyle
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Mines almost 20 years old. And mine doesn't have alot of rust due to where it's lived. It was a cali car for a while where it doesn't snow. Then lived in Washington where we don't salt. So yeah, very light rust. That being said, I don't still find a stuck bolt or two every now and again.
-Kyle
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Haha that bad eh?!
Yours isn't that bad, lol
It's just mine doesn't have much of anything. Not trying to brag, just something I noticed myself doing. Haha
-Kyle
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Pretty much what I would have said has been said above, but I'll just ad mine for the heck of it. Lol
If you have the mechanical inclination, it's something that is fairly "easy". I say that however after I had some dumb driveway, Craigslist, mechanic help me with my timing belt, and after the third time of trying to get it done and still not having it run right, I said screw him. I went over to a friends house where I basically said, "just watch and male sure I don't do anything crazy". This was very early on in my DIY "career" so this was a serious job for him and I. But I used the FSM to the full extent, read the walk throughs and watched the videos several times over. And I'm pleased to report that after using all of those, I got my timing belt done. This forum was a huge, HUGE help with that. If you look at some of my first posts, you can see how much of a desperate good I was to try and get it fixed.
As for your jobs, there are several things I would along the way, most of which have been mentioned. The usual timing belt stuff is an excellent way to go. If you change the knock sensor and put it in its proper location (which isn't that hard after doing a timing belt). You should change your intake gaskets out, and since you'll have the intake off, change your valve cover gaskets as they are very common cause for leakage.
The biggest issued you'll run into on the timing belt are these.
-trying to squeeze the upper timing cover out from behind the A/C line, my idiot mechanic suggested that I pull the line from the pump and drain it. Don't do that is its not nessecary. With enough patience you can slightly bend the A/C like and wiggle the cover free.
The other is getting the timing correct. The car has timing marks on the cams and crank sprockets, the issue is the cams marks don't exactly like up, you have to count the number of teeth on the timing belt between the cam marks, and then between the cam (I think it was the driver side) and the crank to insure those will be in time. That was the key for getting my timing set on the fourth try. Happily this is all laid out in the FSM, which can be downloaded in the garage section I believe.
Hope that helps.
-Kyle
-sent from my phone, so please forgive the errors, which there are sure to be a few.
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Looks good as always dude.
Seeing these cars makes me remember that complaining about the "rust" on my car, is a complete waste of time. Lol
-Kyle
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I just want to take a minute to point out and congratulate a new member for 1) Doing his own research 2) Successfully searching (?)
This IS a truly amazing moment for not only this automotive forum, but all automotive forums everywhere!
Thank you good sir for searching before posting!
-Kyle
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It's most likely the exhaust, but sway bar end links are also a common cause of noises.
-Kyle
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Oh jeez, I have never heard of the light going out causing something, but generally, you buy a car that works, or you know exactly why the problem is. So unless this is screaming deal, walk away dude. It's not worth it.
I'm running into charging issues with my 280Z, and I'm just running through the basics, (it's a little more basic on a classic, but same principles apply). Check connections, looking for loose or corroded terminals or grounds. Have the battery tested again, and the alt tested again, just confirm what the PO claimed (it's just a rule of thumb for me, never trust what the owner said, always make your own diagnosis). Check all the fuses and relays, replace as nessecary. Check for a short, someone else might chime in on this one, because I have only seen the guys on hotrod garage do that.
-Kyle
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If you are referring to the plastic cover that sits under the front cowl and connects to the engine subframe, Then you have nothing to worry about. I bought my 96 in 2009, it didn't even have it. I really didn't even know if was suppose to have anything there until I started looking at OEM diagrams. But I did many road trips, running through puddles, hundreds of trips to go skiing, never had any issues. I have only recently put one of fluerys skid plates on.
So I'd say your fine, for the most part it just keeps dirt out of the engine bay, which is a good thing, but not strictly nessecary from my experience.
I just wouldn't go mud bogging without it. There is a member on here (if DVW still frequents here) who can tell you all about his wonderful experience mud bogging with his pathfinder, blanca. Long story short, his timing belt jumped.
-Kyle
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Nope, it's just when it's moving.
-Kyle
Electrical Problems
in The Garage
Posted
When you say "trying to give power", what does that exactly mean? Do you hear a relay clicking or hear the motor?
-Kyle