SchizophrenicMC

Same here. Tool Time, hosted by Tim "The Toolman" Taylor

Brake Cleaner is chlorine-based. Carb cleaner is a number of alcohols. All carb cleaner releases when it burns is CO, CO2, and water. Brake cleaner releases a number of chlorine gas compounds. In other news, I learned Berryman B-12 Chemtool is manufactured about 8 miles from my house, and just a short distance from Six Flags Over Texas.

Rock on, Silverton lol Drove her even softer today. Can't get gas until tomorrow morning. Urgh, it's raining and my wiper blades are useless, and I need rain-x for the inside of the windshield. Why am I so broke?

It's the stock pipes, that's the funny part xD My buddy ordered this sick new sub for his tC, I'm so jelly of his system. Pioneer double-DIN awesome HU, 12" custom sub. Clear as hell, and firm too.

Yeah, but Chrysler's the ones shouting it all the time. Too many gears in a small case, and they'll break. 6 is about as high as a passenger car needs. The problem with CVTs is energy losses to the torque converter. A fluid coupling will increase frictional losses. If coupled to a computer-actuated clutch, however, the problem is largely mitigated. The problem is, electronic clutches are more expensive than fluid torque converters. If we go electric, there's an issue aside from batteries. The EV is the poster child of saving the environment, but electricity production produces more carbon emissions per energy unit than a midsize car engine generating the same unit of energy. So, if gasoline-based energy production drops and electrical production rises proportionally, emissions will also rise. This, on top of the wild monetary and environmental costs of batteries and their production. While electrics have superior 0-velocity torque, they require complex battery systems, which are heavy and environmentally unsafe to produce and dispose of, to say nothing of their poor reliability. Of course the last issue can be rectified through further research and development, but the materials required are as unsustainable as fossil fuels. Electric vehicles rely on an inefficient set of energy conversions (Chemical -> Thermal -> Mechanical -> Electrical -> Mechanical, as opposed to Chemical -> Thermal & Mechanical) and use highly polluting methods of generating energy (Coal is the single worst source of carbon emissions, and accounts for 39% of US energy production). While it can be argued that more environmentally friendly energy infrastructure can be set in place, the problem stands that the technology for that is not here yet, despite continued work by scientists and engineers worldwide. So, for the time being, while I firmly believe development should continue in the field, it is an impractical, frankly harmful method of transportation to use electric passenger cars. Simply put, EVs are a way to sell merchandise. Everyone wants to save the world. No one doesn't want to do things for the good of the planet. So people hear "EVs are green" and they buy 12,000 Nissan Leafs, no matter what the actual effects are. (Transportation refers to all road and non-road transportation)

Exactly. Everything in cars today is for fuel economy. More gears, bland design, more complex computerized engines, expensive contoured materials, it's all for fuel economy. Ford got rid of the Crown Victoria because it didn't sell well because it got 15MPG. The more gears you have, the more you can keep the engine in power band, and/or at an efficient RPM. Semis have 6 to 24 forward speeds, depending on their transmission design. This keeps the engine at its optimal power band for acceleration, and at its optimum RPM for cruising. So it's not surprising to see 6-speed gearboxes becoming common on cars. Chrysler has the whole 8-speed automatic that I hear breaks down even more frequently than other Chrysler trannies. (Dies On Day Guarantee Ends) Baby, frequently maintain, it's all the same when we're talking about trucks we throw at the roughest conditions one can reasonably expect of a vehicle. It's supposed to be robust, and capable of handling severe conditions. Automatics aren't historically great at this.

Lol, car alarms. When I first got my Pathy, I was parked next to this Camry waiting for my grandma, and every time I tapped the throttle, the alarm would go off.

I pretty well like my Kenwood HU, but I do want to upgrade to a Pioneer. Screw Sony though.

I know, a lot of times, if you overwork a transmission, it'll go into limp mode. One time, I was showing off in the GMC, and I dropped it into first to burn out at a light. And it burned out alright. I put it in drive while I was moving, but it stayed in second until I got to the pizza place. When I started it back up, it shifted properly again. If you got sensors wet, or you got the tranny too hot trying to climb stuff, you could put it into limp mode, as it tries to protect itself from further damage. As for the engine issue, that could also be water related, or because of mud. It could even be related to the tranny controller telling the engine controller to keep it easy for the tranny. What Silverton said, though. You have to baby automatics. That's why I don't like them.

Okay, see, now it all fits. Point is, the front wheels aren't going to cause swerve if one of the hubs isn't locked. All the power will just go to the unlocked wheel and waste your gas.

Drove her real soft because I have to make a gallon and a half of gasoline last until Wednesday.

Damn dude. Guess I'll have to use my cheap welding goggles instead of my normal safety goggles next time I go grinding. I didn't even figure grinding was bright enough on the UV spectrum. Never can be too safe I guess.

Autotragic transmissions break down more quickly than manuals in my experience. The GMC's lasted 75k before it died. Given, it was originally an AT&T work truck with a cage on the back for equipment, so it took a lot of wear. Still, that's not a lot of miles. My buddy's Rodeo has an automatic, which was rebuilt at 110k. My Pathfinder has a 5 speed that's grinding but still working at 211k. Really, though, it depends on how you treat it. If it's used nicely, mostly highway miles, and it's maintained, it'll last longer than if it's beat on and used for 4x4ing often. By force of preference, I like to stay away from Automatics. I feel numb in them, and they don't like to last as long.

A Live Axle is a type of Solid Axle. Just saying. I never would have guessed the front diff was R200 though. I thought those were LSD. My front end spins free and open.

I'm using a Kenwood head unit on the stock speakers, but the suspension on the front speakers is gone, and someone already pulled the amps, so the tweeters in back don't work. I plan to upgrade to a Pioneer HU, Pioneer 6" speakers up front, 6x9s in back, and add at least 1 10" slim-mount subwoofer somewhere. Maybe under the passenger seat. You know. For the ladies.

I'm definitely adding that little modification when the Pathfinder is fixed. Results will be hilarious.

If one of the hubs isn't locked, that side will get all the power. The front diff is open, so whichever side has least resistance gets all the power. I would say the issue is more in the rear end. Check your rear trailing arm bushings and panhard bushings. Also check that everything looks straight back there. If it's not that, I would surmise it's possible your differential has locked up. I know of a few guys with Z31s who've encountered pull from the rear axle, because the CLSD locked up from wear. The WD21 LSD is R200, right? Anyway, I doubt it's a front-end issue. Check all that rear-end stuff and tell us what you see.

Well excuse me if my experience is with KAs and CAs, on top of an assortment of American L4s and a couple GM L-series 350s. (Not LS-series. L-series) None of those engines have any hoses on the back, except for the heater core hoses. I've never had to pull a VG, yet. Here's hoping I don't have to until it becomes an option of my own choosing.

The only reason to Seafoam is if you have sludge for oil or if you like trolling people with smoke. If you have sludge for oil, seafoam your crankcase, run for about 100 miles, change your oil, problem (usually) solved. Make a note to change your oil more often than you have been, because you should never have sludge for oil. Speaking of trolling with smoke... I kinda wanna put a bottle in under there, and put a tee in a vacuum line, with a solenoid valve on the hose running out of the tee... And into a bottle of seafoam. Someone riding your tail? Hit the Smoke Screen switch.

Went on an adventure. A whole bunch of offroad screwing around with Matt and Scott, some reverse burnouts on these bumpy tires, drove around the track and football field at my high school, pissed people off, raced this douche in an Exploder with his pissed-off wife, followed a black WD21 SE for awhile, twice, on a coincidence. More offroadery. Taught Scott how to drive stick. BURNED SO MUCH GASOLINE. Still haven't found that vacuum leak. Is there anywhere on the back of the engine where there should be vacuum? That's where the hissing sounds like it's coming from.

Like MY1PATH said, the only way to stiffen the ride is to increase the spring rate. Moving the spring doesn't increase the spring rate, it just moves the spring. However, putting the suspension into conditions where the spring isn't allowed to do its job (resting on the bump stops) means you end up riding on whatever you've jammed into the way. If you're on your bump stops, you're essentially on an object with an effective spring rate greater than the mass of your truck, so there's no compression and no travel, so it's hard. When you do anything, your springs aren't making your truck ride higher up, it's whatever you've put under, or on top of them that is. The springs will have the same at-rest compression no matter where they're moved, vertically. When you begin to move the vehicle from rest, to conditions where a wheel is higher than another, the springs will compress to counter this. They compress until their travel bottoms out, or something with a greater effective spring rate comes into play. For example, bump stops or damper housings. If you want stiffer suspension, get stiffer springs. Want it soft, get softer springs. Wanna increase ride height with stock spring rate, put spacers underneath the springs, lift the body, correct geometry changes. That's how springs work. (Why Nissan thought they could stiffen ride height using adjustable dampers is beyond me)

lol, bent rims. When I hop a curb at speed, I don't screw the rim... Just the CV axle and subframe... (I swear it was an accident, anyone could misshift)

Raced my buddy, Matt's, tC. Won. Discovered massive brake fade, synchros too worn to downshift while hard braking, had to cut across 3 lanes and the crosswalk so I'd stop before the intersection. I've been having to use my air conditioner, what do you guys mean, "snow"?

I saw the comment about it having a unique tranny and I thought "That's not how Nissan does it..." Famously, Nissan used the same transmission on JDM, USDM, and Euro Spec models of the S13 and S14 through their entire production, despite there being 4 different engines used among them. Different bellhousings, same trannies. Furthermore, all S13 and S14 bellhousings are compatible with the smaller late-model S12 71C transmission (which had the same gear ratios, but a shorter tailshaft), and vice versa. Nissan likes parts-sharing, so there's a good chance, any Nissan you own, you'll be able to find parts from at least one other model.

WD21s have slip yokes, but the truck's only lifted 2 inches, that shouldn't screw it up. Still, if it's causing undue vibration, no harm checking it out.