MadManMike

Pre-cat on my 1995 here in Washington. Car originated here, so not sure if they just put one on cuz I was close to cali or what? Apparently it's clogged, because the stealership says I am getting a ton of back pressure on my engine which is "supposedly" the cause of my bad gas millage. I passed emissions last month, now I am going to take the pre cat and cat out and slap in a Magnaflow high flow cat. Currently taking estimates on a custom exhaust system. Let me know if it affects your emissions testing, I know cali emissions is tougher than we have in WA... So if you pass then I will -Mike

Really? I actually didn't do that this time. Maybe that is what the problem was. This was my first time doing my brakes without someone watching me, but I honestly don't ever remember doing that before. You live and learn I suppose. -Mike

Is this really normal? I have replaced pads several times and have never seen any fluid before. When I pushed the cylinder all the way in it didn't seem to leak when pushing on the brake, initially I heard a "pop" noise and it gushed out fluid. I am just afraid it will do that again when I stomp on them while on the freeway. I installed a rebuilt caliper ($35 at the parts store.) Took me all of 15 mins to put it and the new pads on. But I would like to know if that is normal.

Yeah I was reading other places online and the consensus seems to be to replace the whole thing. Plus I need to get to school in the morning and the parts store closes in an hour and that looks like it will be my fastest option. Thanks for the input, any other input is welcome.

Hey guys, So I went to put new brakes pads on and found that one of my calipers is leaking (as I as depressing it to put it back in) right around the rubber seal (around the piston). Do I replace the whole caliper? Or the piston? or just a seal? Never had this problem before, wondering how to proceed. -Mike

No worries guys, price isn't an issue when it comes to my brakes. I am saving my self at least a hundred bucks by doing it my self. I am curious to try ceramic, they were only $10 more than the semi-metallics. Hmmm -Mike

Hello, So I am going to change my front brake pads today. Not sure what is on there currently (haven't bothered to change them since I bought this thing 3 years ago). But they started to squeak this week, figured it was time. Since I haven't ever changed my front brakes I called up my brother (also a pathy owner) and asked him what kind of pad I should use. My brother said the metallic pads are the way to go. Then I talked to my dad and he said that organic stop you better and thats what I should use. Now I am confused. Whats important to me? you ask. When it comes to braking the importance is in this order. 1. Stopping ability 2. How often I have to change them 3. Noise or any comfort type of thing. What will you be using your pathy for? what kind of braking will you be doing? I would love to say that I offroad all the time with my pathfinder, but really it's mostly a commuter car. So I need it to stop well when some idiot cuts me off on I-5 more than I need it to slow me down while I am 4-wheelin down a hill. That being said: most of my commuting is through the Seattle/Queen anne area, meaning I drive on hills and slopes all day long with a huge grade and a 30mph speed limit. So I do have to use my brakes often. What would you reccomend? what are the pro's and cons? -Mike

Did that fix it? I siliconed all around my windshield and it didn't seem to help. And that is the exact bracket mine was leaking from. Mine also seemed to be leaking from the corner ( Shown in photo) the bondo stuff that seals up the corner was loose and looks as if it has separated from the body a little.

Oh man! that is the exact same problem I am having! I know what U shaped bracket your talking about, and it seems like it's coming from that. The other place it could be coming from is the corner (seam) where the curved part of the floor meets the inner fender area. If I put a hose on the top of my car and let it run, then pull back the carpet I can see a steady drip come down my floor from the firewall area. I have sealed everything from the outside, every cable coming into the firewall, all the gaps around the windshield I mean EVERYTHING. No luck still leaks. My guess: There seems to be a channel that all water runs down (through the vent cowlings etc..) Somewhere in that channel (probably where I cant see) there is a crack in the metal, or a gap in the seam that is allowing water to enter the car. This would require removing the front side panel and the vents/cowlings where the windshield wiper motors are. I am going to attempt to tear it down this summer. Let me know what you come up with. -Mike

Hey guys and gals, So after finally fixing my passenger side leaky floor (some good ol JB water weld putty), I am in need of some new carpet padding. I went to the local auto parts stores only to find that they didn't carry such a thing. So now I am sitting here thinking "I wonder if i can just use carpet padding for your home for my car" The stuff for your house looks to be the same jute type of padding that was in the car. What do you think? I know I could order some from Summit or JC Whitney or something but I kind of wanted to get the pathy put back together before next week (where I have to give a lady friend a ride home from school). Also, the original floor board had some kind of hard rubber between the carpet padding and the metal floorboard. It was all brittle and broke apart when I was rummaging around for the leak, is this necessary? what would I use to replace it? Thanks! -Mike

Same thing here. The rubber stuff just kind cracked all apart when I took the carpet out. My car has been in a few wrecks (in it's previous owners life), my guess is that when it wrecked the joint separated a little more than normal. Probably didn't leak until the rubber got old enough to fail, now it's noticeable. So here was my solution, (checked for rust everywhere none found!) found the place where the joint (firewall to door frame, passenger side) was separating a little tiny bit. Removed exsisting failing rubber seal. Sprayed area with several coats of rubberized undercoating (probably could also use truck bed liner). The leak seems to have stopped, in the mean time I am still going with out a passenger seat and with the carpet still torn all up (waiting for a really good rain). thanks everyone for your suggestions/help!

Okay so after removing all of the carpet, padding and rubber crap on the passenger side of the car I dried everything up really good. The next night it rained (whats new here in seattle) and when I went to go to school in the morning there was a puddle on the passenger side floor again. I could see a little tiny stream of water coming down the (firewall/floorboard) area. I followed the stream of water all the way up (under the dash) to the place where the kick panel and the firewall meet. Water was leaking in the seam between the firewall and the kick panel. I really can't reach this place, so I don't think I could get silicone or epoxy up in there. I purchased a can of rubberized undercoating, I think I am going to give it a few coats up in that area and see if it will stop the leaking. Using a hose I couldn't exactly pinpoint the spot that the water is entering at, but it's around the passenger side hood area. It doesn't seem to be the vent cowls, I think its entering from the panels that are around the windshield wipers. Any other suggestions are welcome. -Mike

Hey Guys, So a year or so ago I had a problem with the passenger side floorboard carpet being totally soaked when it was rainy/snowy out. I ripped back the carpet and sprayed a hose in my wheel well to find a screw hole was leaking water under my floor board, a little silicone and it was solved. The carpet stayed dry the rest of the year as far as I could tell. Now a year later my carpet was wet again, pulled back the carpet expecting to find that the silicone I had used was pulled away. But the fix was still working, I spray water under my car and in my wheel well and get nothing. All of my carpet padding is soaking wet and ruined, the rubber stuff that used to cover the metal floorboards has cracked and is no longer and my carpet smells like mold on that side. Any ideas? I was thinking of just buying a couple of the cans of Rhino lining stuff and spraying the crap out of the wheel well and the floor board. Thanks for your time! -Mike

Hey Guys, So my Odometer and trip odometer quit working in my 1995 pathfinder. I took apart the dash took the cluster out and cleaned off the contacts installed it again and there was no change. I read in another post that if my Spedometer is still working and my odometer isn't (which is the case) then it's not a wiring or sensor problem because they both feed from the same line (is this true?). If the above is the case, it looks like my only option is to find a used cluster from a J/Y and roll the odometer to match mine (can you roll these odometers?) Any suggestions for other fixes or input? -Mike

When I did mine I did: T-belt Water Pump T-belt tensioner By-pass hose Thermostat Drive Belts All Rad Hoses Oh, and be sure to tighten your crank bolt tight! I didn't and it cost me $600 in repairs to my crankshaft later -Mike

Hey guys... So my engine control fuse has been blown for who knows how long, just wondering what it does? It's a 15A fuse on my inside fuse box labeled "engine control", on my 1995 WD21. I am hoping it does something major and therefore is the answer to some of my problems -Mike

Hey guys, So my trip odometer and low gas light quit working, so I figured I would remove the instrument cluster and make sure the wires were good and tight. I know how to remove the instrument trim on a pre-1994 pathfinder, but I can't figure out what I am doing with my 1995. I removed the top 2 screws but can't figure out where to go from here, I am afraid of breaking the trim. Any suggestions? -Mike

You pretty much can't go wrong with a Ruger 10/22. Ammo is crazy cheap and available everywhere. The 10/22 is one of the most reliable rifles there is to own. -Mike

Thanks for the birthday wishes! I got a 3.5" blade Ken Onion black carbon coated Kershaw knife... and an ipod nano and a bunch of gift cards... Life is good -Mike

Yeah what he said Sorry Greg bad grammar on my part. My brain is a little frazzled, a week for spring break was not long enough! -Mike

Inlets outlets are the same size. The muffler is the same length, just smaller around. Thanks guys! -Mike

Well I got this muffler for $26 brand new... and I was already ordering things from summit so shipping included...

I guess my question is... Will it work for now? Or will it hurt anything? I am just looking for a cheap replacement for my stock muffler, and the one I ordered is about half as thick as the stock one. It's just a temp job until I have the time and money to upgrade the whole thing this summer. -Mike

Quick question... So I ordered a cheap muffler just to use for now (one of the "trush turbo") mufflers on summit for $26... but of course I had to select the wrong model number when I ordered. The muffler I ordered is the same length as the stock but not nearly as big around. What would be the side effect of using this muffler? It's only going to be on the truck till I have time this summer to redo my entire exhaust, and as long as it won't affect my performance I don't care how it sounds... What do you think? use it or send it back and get a thicker one? -Mike