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rocky2

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Everything posted by rocky2

  1. Yes, I was But I thought the info was relevant to the discussion. I agree if you're going to bust it open and due a locker, you might as well gear it. That's why I posted.
  2. This web site is good info for gear choices http://www.angelfire.com/va2/nissan4x4/differentials.html if you are running 31" tires you should be running 4.625 ratio gears. That's why the terrible mpg and lose of power in our pathy's.
  3. I like it. Babaca I got to make one myself and just need to take some measurements and bend it at work. The aluminium looks good.
  4. Just got mine in the mail yesterday and will be putting them in this weekend. Thanx again for the reminder!!
  5. I bought mine here for $10.35 a piece. Came like in 3 days. http://www.dealerdirectparts.com/1998-NISSAN-PATHFINDER-Left-Rack-and-Pinion-Mount-p/nissan-5128463-path-4.htm
  6. The Lokka or what is commonly known as a lunch box locker is the easiest and least expensive option. Aussie Lockers and Spartan lockers are cool but they don't make a locker for the pathy. I'm pretty sure you have a h233b Powertrax is another company http://www.andysauto...ials/powertrax/ makes a locker for 86-96 year for $350 http://www.4wheelpar...aign=CJ_ProdCat another option $300 4x4parts https://www.4x4parts...ker-p-6651.html http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4061 seems to list 1996-2004 pathy $340 Good luck
  7. Stock bolts, the bottom hole is completely stock, no modification. The top hole is not widened just made longer on the horizontal plane. The knuckle pivots on the bottom hole and is angularly adjusted by moving the top bolt either in (negative camber) or out (positive camber). Stock bolts tightend up good and I used nylock nuts. No movement at all. I guess you could use gnarled washers or lock washers if you're worried about the possibility of movement in this area. Due a little web searching, quality aftermarket coilover struts use an elongated/slottted top hole just for this purpose I'm describing, ie. camber adjustment. Super high quality race application coilovers even have an adjustment screw in the top kuckle area to use for micro-adjustment of camber angle. I just mark the knuckle and the strut housing and go from there by width of the felt pen marker. Usually 1 mm width= 2 degrees. But eye ball works best, you just might have to adj. it a couple of times. Those camber bolts are a joke IMO. They are smaller in diameter and only give you a couple of degrees adj. I love it how guys say to use 2 one on top and one on bottom. Still weak IMO. With AC coils and top spacers you're just making a longer strut assembly, therefore pushing the control arm down and not substantially raising the body. You got block it Dude ie. SFD to correct CV angles. That's why KRfabs kit has strut blocks as well because they assume stock springs are being used in the front. If we had SAS we would treat it like the rear and put longer springs and longer shocks and callit done.
  8. Koni inserts with spacer fixed top out issue Slotted bolt hole at strut/knuckle attachment fixed camber issue 2" SFD with the AC coils fixed CV angles
  9. Dude, I'm telling you. Open up or slot the top bolt hole in the strut housing mounting location. I got pics in my write-up. Did the trick I promise. My Skunk2 coilover suspension system for the Honda is set up like this and that is what I copied. Guaranteed!!!
  10. Just ordered mine, after reading this post Thanx for reminding me of this.
  11. I was in the garage replacing the RH rear bumper side piece this morning, been puttting that off for a couple of years and the fedex guy showed up with my steering rack bushings. So, I put them in, the driverside was bad but not terrible. Anyway did both in about an hour and drove it around. Could definetly feel a difference. Steering is tighter and more responsive. What a mess in this area with old oil and grim!! Cleaned it up and knocked another couple of issues off the list. Hey ferrariowner123 quit quackin and start fixin!!!
  12. Gonna go poly front and rear ASAP. Did it to my oldest boy's Cherokee and loved it. We were amazed at the difference especially the motor mounts.
  13. Did the RH exhaust manifold yesterday. Took 4 hours and some swearing. The R50's must be easier than the D21's with larger bolts and less material fatigue. All the nuts came off with no busted bolts. But the new manifold was slightly different in shape and it's damn near impossible to get to one of the nuts to tighten it completely. Had to use an open end and got an 1/8 of a turn at a time. So I'll give her another try today so I can sleep better. Pulled the pipe off just after the Cat and took the manifold and cat out in one piece, then took cat off and re-assembled on the floor. Had to pull the Alt. in order to get enough room to get the heat shield out of the way and some elbow room. The old manifold was cracked damn near all the way. I hit it against the floor and it fell apart. Cheap cast I reckon. The RH side exhaust pipe, right before the muffler has a flex union and got me thinking. It must be an attempt to relieve some stress to that side of the system. Anyhow, pretty easy and sounds awesome to not hear that leaking sound.
  14. I had the same issues without the SFD. I knew something was wrong when I went to put the top caps on the strut and had to compress the coil spring like crazy just to get the top bolt on. (spring longer than OEM). Then I went to put the strut assembly in the pathy and had to have someone step on the control arm to get it low enough to get the knuckle in the lower strut mounting area. Got it all together and was cambered like a bulldog. I used camber bolts as well but they didn't give me enough. Then the top out noise, negative camber and the idea of lengthening the rear shocks due to lift but accepting the front cause there's no longer struts made for our vehicles just bothered me to no end. I'm really amazed that not much attention has been paid on this issue here at NPORA. Suspension terminology: compression-----sag/weight of object being suspended rebound-----------rate of return dampening-------rate at which object travels downward stroke--------------distance shock rod travels within the shock body spring rate--------the weight the spring is rated for Stroke is the issue!! If you use longer springs you change the stroke in your shock and reduce your articulation travel and risk destroying the dampner. Limiting straps are a band aid fix. Sure they work if you jump the vehicle but do not center the shock/strut rod in the shock body during normal use. The extension to the rod that I made only accounted for the stroke centering issue not the camber. IFS set ups are tricky and it would be cool if somebody made an adjustable coil over set up for our pathy's but they don't. Anyway the extension I made broke and the whole idea of extension at this area of the strut seemed risky. I did the suspension (fully adj. coilover kit) on my Civic Si and started thinking the opposite for the pathy. Long story short, Koni inserts ($85 a piece) and spacer at bottom of insert in the strut housing and stroke problem solved. It was easier than it looked and now I got rebound adjustment and a better dampener. So if you use OEM springs, shocks and struts and due a SFD all is good. Our first clue something is up should've been the longer shocks for the rear and no change to the strut. 4x4parts should disclose more of this to buyers. I bought their kit and installed and went WTF! Once I did a 2" SFD with the AC coils and no top spacer at all, the CV angles are damn near straight and the elongation of the top knuckle bolt hole gives me more than enough camber adj. Let me know if you need help with any of this and you can call me and I'll talk your ear off if you want. Rocky
  15. Hey pathlesstaken Check out my post about Koni inserts I know it's a couple of years since your post but I thought you might be interested.
  16. Poly bushings front and rear

  17. Ya, it seems more stressful than it really ends up being. I get a chubby every time I go out and start the pathy
  18. Going after the RH exhaust manifold and the steering rack bushings next.
  19. Thanx Dude Couldn't have done it without you!!
  20. Did the timing belt, water pump, tensioner pulley, thermostat and one camshaft seal. Everything went off without a hitch and I can't thank NPORA enough. Especially "5523pathfinder" and everyone else here and the www. My son and I got after it around 2:00 pm yesterday and finished around 11:00 pm, with one parts run and a snack break. Oh and about 3 or 4 beers. The stock timing belt with 148,000 mi. was still in good shape, a little soft but no cracks or serious wear signs. But when you get that far and getting good sleep at night is important, we jumped in. Stock water pump felt decent but the tensiner bearing felt lose and rough as compared to the new one. Everything came out and off really easy and lining up the timing marks seemed easier than I expected. Wasn't totally sure about the TDC timing part but checked the rotor position, the alignment marks and then rotated crank, checked again and again, then just went for it. The tensioner and spring still confuses me. If you adjust tension then tighten down the nut, what is the spring for? The camshaft and sprockets were initially worrisome because the camshafts moved when I took the sprockets off to get to the seal but just put them back and used the screwdriver trick to hold in place and worked perfect. Did just the leaking RH camshaft seal, the other one and the crankshaft seal were fine. The AC line was in the way and was probably the only pain. How to make a couple of attempts putting the belt tensioner brackets back on in correct order at the end of the job must have been tired. Got in the truck and turned the key and it started and purred like a kitten. Overall a very easy job.
  21. I saw some thread where a guy made one and it looked pretty easy and cool. I'm going to make one and it's a whole lot cheaper. He used a pump sprayer from any hardware store and some hose and fittings and dorman cap, drilled it and put his fitting and it works fine. I was thinking about getting a cap from a junk yard and making my own set up on the cheap. Check this thread out: http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
  22. Not really not night and day but a little more mid-range and throttle response, but it might be a placebo affect. I did an intake mod, took the stock box out and put a 3" cone filter, removed rear exhaust resonator and put a magnaflow muffler and TBS. Sure it runs better I guess but still no race car if you know what I mean. With the intake filter you can hear a slight whistle as the air goes passed the MAF and the intake is louder, the muffler has a deep tone, so I like it. Gas mileage is terrible in this truck. When I run 31's it loses power considerably.
  23. https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/throttle-body-spacer-p-5311.htmlTake a look at thisTBS
  24. The springs were the AC supposed 2" lift from 4x4parts.com. But after AC 2" springs plus 2" SFD in the front I'm still gonna cut the rear coils down. Should've gone 4" I would bet that the TBS has to be the same because the 3.3L is the same. You could get a gasket, and copy it, and make a spacer out of a chunk of aluminium at any decent machine shop.
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