barthel

10-4 Thanks MWS

I would hope that would be the case. I was just looking for the parts that were listed on the Mustang write up that everyone keeps pointing to. If someone has different way to do it, I'm all ears. MW, your link was dead.

I'm starting to gather the necessary parts for an e-fan upgrade. The one thing I'm having trouble finding is the 75 Amp Bosch relay. Where did you guys get yours? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

So I should move the adjuster, and not especially the bar itself? My thought so far (and lord knows I could be wrong) is to leave the t-bars in the LCA's, get the adjusters off the t-bars, set the adjusters so that they're about even, then reconnect them and crank the piss out of them. Does that sound even close to right? The other problem I have, is that I'm probably going to have to take the t-bar out of the LCA anchor when I do the lower bushings.

I'd be glad to, just want to make sure I'm doing it right first. But I will absolutely take pics and post them.

Yep. I'm salivating at the mere thought of it. -bounce-

Before anyone asks, I've read about every post here regarding t-bar lifts and re-indexing. For some reason, it just doesn't seem to gel. I was under my truck today (for an unrelated issue) and saw the torsion bar adjusters. I started studying them as I'm going to crank them to get the lift I need out of the front end. The first thing I noticed is that the passenger side adjuster was below the crossbar, and well lower than the drivers side (which may exlpain why my truck dipped to the right). I loosened the adjuster nut and cranked the adjuster in a bit, so that it was closer to where the driver side was. Lo and behold, my truck no longer leans to the right. That got me to thinking about setting up the lift. It doesn't seem to me like they could be cranked in too much farther, so i'd think that would mean they need to be re-indexed first. If i read the posts properly, I have to seperate the t-bar from the adjuster and move it inboard of the truck. Once i get them set, i can crank away. Now, that leads me to 2 questions. 1: When I back the bar off the adjuster, it will come out of the socket on the LCA as well, right? So, I'm actually moving splines on both ends. 2: Once I get the t-bar off the adjuster, should i balance the adjusters so that they're in the same general place? i would think that if I put them just under the crossbar, when I crank them to get the lift they would go above it and I wouldn't have to worry about them hanging down. Soory to be so Dee Dee Dee, but I don't want to start messing with them 'till i feel like I know what I'm doing. Please be gentle.

Yep. Had a sticker right on the side "60 Amp". Guess the early models got shortchanged.

No, my stock Pathy alternator was a 60, not the Maxima one. I'm still waiting for the Maxima alty to get here (hopefully Monday)

Pulled the alty out of mine last week in anticapation of getting my new Maxima alty, mine was actually a 60 amp!

Rock Auto.com. Cheapest place I've found to get them new.

By the way, thanks or all your help. It went back on just fine with a little tenacity. Thanks Guys!

Jay, I think I posted the exact same thing about 3 months ago. I ended up with neither due to all the helpful people around here. I ended up with JGC rear coils, Rough Country UCA's up front, Pro Comp ES9000 shocks, and it cost me a fraction of what the lowest kit from A/C would have run me. These guys saved me some SERIOUS money and got me pretty much exactly what I wanted.

I'd be up for that!

WAY good to know Howler! I got the same kit last month, ES9000 shocks and the stabilizer. Haven't put it in yet, but am anxious. You did say the stock tabs on the center link have to go, right?

I had to climb in through the moon roof once. I left it open, reached inside far enough to disconnect the latch, viola, I'm in!

I like 88's idea about the battery disconnect. When I put in my MSD system I took the extra 10 minutes and put in a killswitch. A small rocker switch up under the dash on one of the kick panels. Unless you know it's there, you'll never find it. sssh

Bitchin' (as my son would say) Thanks JJ

OK, I got it on,Thanks much! Have another little issue that I'm not sure is OK or not. When I got it on, all the timing marks lined up @#1TDC. I adjusted the tension, double checked the marks and proceeded to rotate the engine. Nothing slipped, everything seemed to go OK, but when the timing marks came around again, they were exactly 1 tooth off. WTF?

I am SO there! **EDIT: From the original "A VG Community" Topic

4" backspace on the WD's works the best. I went through all the same questions when I did my wheels. Settled on 15X8, 4"BS. Cragar Wheels

Ok, not like I don't already feel stupid enough for that alternator/bolt issue, I have another problem I need help with. I've got the front of the engine apart to do the timing belt, water pump, etc. Everything came off fine, and I'm trying to put on the new belt. Well, it won't go on. It will go around any 2 pulleys, but won't make the 3rd. I've backed the tensioner off as far as it will go, and still no luck. Is there some trick to this, or something I'm not doing? :bow:

My pleasure! Rock Auto was about the cheapest I found, even with shipping. And yes, it's a pain, but with a little finesse and muscle, it goes in eventually.

What you're getting is called the "pressure hose assembly". It goes from the banjo bolt on the pump, up to a rubber section that goes down by the exhaust. When it hits the fram, it turns into metal tubing again and goes across the front of the vehicle to the steering box. Unfortunately, there's no way to just change part of it, the same thing happened to me. I replaced it myself, but it was a pain. The part was about $75 from Rock Auto.com.

Well, I got it out. The 90A doesn't get here 'till Tuesday or Wednesday. But since I have the whole front of the engine apart (timing belt, water pump) I figured I'd get the old one out while it was easy.