barthel

Hats off to you TC! That is a ball buster of a job, i did it on my 88. Swore up and down i would never even consider doing it again. I even went as far as to go to Harbor Freight and bought a bearing press to help. Probably just made it worse. I still have a scar on my finger from that job!

I actually used a pint of trans flush first. But yes, that's the way i did it.

I bypassed the stock cooler altogether and put in a B&M 70268. B&M 70268 from Summit Tranny runs smooth, shifts nice and I've had no issues with it since. It was easy to install although i had to put it inbetween the rad and the A/C condenser, not enough room in front of the condenser.

www.rockauto.com Do a search by the car, then the part needed. The part number below should be the correct one. Call the tech line if you're unsure but I get parts from them all the time. Good prices and I've never got the wrong part. BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0941246 Brake Cable, Right Rear;Four Wheel Drive (4X4);Rear Disc Brakes;1 Per Car $40.79

:tonguefinger: Expensive, but quite possibly worth it. I went with Royal Purple as well, and notice the shifting got smoother almost immediately. Had my rig out wheeling in the desert last month, it perfomed beautifully with the new fluid. I changed my T-case fluid to the RP ATF and am going to swap out my diff fluids as well. I' was very impressed.

The help is much appreciated. That's the last time i trust the Haynes manual, 4.6 qts my A**!

*UPDATE* Not sure what to make of this, so I thought I'd ask. I drained my T-case today. According to the FSM, the T-case holds 4.6 quarts. I only drained out about 3 to 3 1/2 (which didn't bug me). I let it drain for a solid hour on a level surface, re-installed the plug and went to fill it up. Well, to make a long story short, it only took about 2 1/2 quarts to refill until it started pouring out the fill hole. Should this concern me?

Great info, I'll be changing it later this week (to ATF) Thanks a ton gang!

Sounds like it's definitely out of time. Turn the crank pulley to line up the timing marks on the cam pulleys, then check your distibutor. The rotor should be pointing at the #1 wire. Now, verify that you're at TDC using a dowel (I used a small screwdriver), place it into the #1 cylinder and let it rest on the piston. Slightly move the crank pulley, the dowel should only go down. You may have slipped some teeth when you broke the cam, in which case you'll have to re-time it completely. Casey definitely has a point about checking the compression in ALL cylinders. It only takes a few teeth's worth of slip for the pistons to start hitting valves.

If it's not posted, or private property, HAVE FUN!

I've seen threads about using gear oil (75W90W) or ATF in the TX10 transfer case. I have an '88 Auto and was wondering if one was preferable over the other. I'm going to change the rear diff fluid next week and was going to do the transfer case at the same time. I have 6 quarts of synthetic ATF already that I'm not using, so i could use that for the t-case, or I have to get the additional gear oil when I get the stuff for the diff. Just curious what you guys (and gals) thought about one vs. the other.

Does anyone here have any experience with BP skids, fitting a set for a 90-95 on an '88? Curious if it would work. Thanks in advance.

And they're a PITA to replace. I wrestled with mine for 15 minutes.

Would that be considered a defect???? Kidding of couse. PM'd you Martin, thanks.

I need to change my rear bumper in a BAD way. I've been all over the net and am having little luck (other than having one fabbed, which is WAY too much money right now). Any of you know if there are bumpers for other vehicle that will work on the pathy's with little or lite modding? I would love a tube style rear bumper (like the Smittybilt's) but am not sure which ones are close. Any ideas? BTW, I drive an '88 WD-21 Thanks much!

I have a rack, but this could be done with the standard luggage rack as well. I used CB Antenna mounts and clamped them to the rack. Not real difficult, they work GREAT!

If I set the T-case to neutral, trans to park, is there a limit to how far I could tow it?

I was just curious about the best way to tow a Pathy, say to an event or such. Can it be towed on 4 wheels or the 2 rear with the trans and Tcase in neutral, or does it have to be towed with all wheels off the ground (flatbed tow or trailer)? Could i dolly it on the front wheels? Thanks P.S. Did a search already.

<--------agrees with '88. Drivers side, definitely.

Heat them up a bit with a torch.

Rusty, That's almost exactly how I did mine. I disconnected the out line to the tranny cooler, placed it in a milk jug and started the engine. It filled the jug up in nothing flat. Filled another half of one as well before it stopped pumping. At that point, I shut it down, put in a quart of ATF and started the engine again until I saw if flow purple (was switching to Royal Purple Synthetic). Once I saw the new fluid coming out, I connected the hose to the tranny cooler, let it fill up, and when it started coming out the out line of the tranny cooler, I reattached the hose. Now I just had to fill it back up. The manual says the tranny should take 18 pints (9 quarts) of fluid, but that's with draining the torque converter as well. I pumped out about 6 to 7 quarts, and put an even 7 back in.

MWS, You are correct, as a matter of fact I only need 4. The fuse block I got has 4 ignition switched circuits, and 3 constant circuits. I'm using the 4 switched for the lights, 2 of the constants for power outlets, and the last one as the trigger switch for the relays.

I had my uppers and lowers done for $400, which included an alignment and replacing the TRE's. However, I supplied the parts.

Well, I got all of my lights finally and am in the process of installing them. 6 total on the roof rack (2 inner front, 2 outer front, 2 rear back up) plus 2 PIAA fogs on the front. I have all the wiring diagrams that I pulled from here as well as the instructions that came with the lights. My question is slightly different. The way they will work, 2 inner front on one switch, 2 outer front on one switch, backups and fogs on their own switches as well. I have 4 lighted rocker switches to sork them and pulled a 7 circuit fuse block and mounted it under the drivers seat. I'm using the fuse block to power the relays for the lights themselves, I'll have to pull trigger power to the switches from somewhere else (using 6 of the 7 circuits). Can I use power from one location as a trigger for all the switches (since the load is channeled by the relays), or do I need to find 4 seperate power sources (one for each switch). I will still have 1 constant hot circuit left on my fuse block, any issues if I use that for a trigger? Thanks in advance.

Mine's an 88, but I have the same issue. Heat through the entire console. I made the mistake once of putting a Chap Stick in one of the holders on the console. Boy, did I learn a bad lesson that day.