Dieselboy

Would ditching the cat cause the ECU to start chucking problem codes at you?

I think these are same dimensions as the WD21 (correct me if I'm wrong). So I'm in for a set of uppers and lowers as well.

Fave food? Smoked Arctic Char Jerky! Can't get enough of that stuff, but damned if I can find a picture of it! Hard stuff to get hold of too.

Spoke with Steve from Rugged Rocks today about these adjustable links. Seems that the last batch he got made didn't sell very well. But now they've all gone there's more interest - go figure. Anyway, he's open to having some more adjustable upper and lower rear links with johnny joints made up if there's sufficient interest. Probably needs 15-20 takers to make it worth his while. SO if you're interested in getting your name on the list, contact him at Rugged Rocks.

Well, that's statistics for ya. As my old mathematics teacher used to say - "Stats are like a bikini. It's what they hide that's interesting!" Either way, I'm still required to make this mod by law to pass the inspection. I imported the Terry through terra2imports.ca. They're based in Vernon, BC. Gerry Martselos was the main dude handling my import. Basically, you drop $500 refundable deposit and you gain access to all the Japanese action listings. Its up to you to flag up vehicles you're interested in. Terra2 than get their guys in Japan to check it out and take a bunch of photos, then they advise you on suitable bids. Its up to you how much you bid of course. I was interested in 3 or 4 apparently good looking trucks but after the pre-auction inspection, I got waved off due to bad underbody rust. This one though looked awesome - a 1992 with only 50,000 on the clock. After you're successful, they calculate all shipping, handling, customs and import duty costs etc and they organize shipping and importing for you. You can either collect and register the truck when it arrives in Vancouver, or get it shipped to you elsewhere in Canada. Mine caught the train to Edmonton. I'm just waiting for the hard copies of all the import docs so I can get a temporary permit to drive it home to get it up to spec to pass the OOP inspection. Another company that does way more and basically refurbs the vehicle to like-new condition before passing it on to the client is Outback Imports in Whitehorse, Yukon. Amazing hassle-free trucks, but pricey. I think things are pretty lax here in Alberta inspection-wise. But as I have a parts truck, I'll probably swap all the lights over to my old DOT approved units anyway. I'd need to do that for the headlights as they're orientated differently for RHD than for LHD. Thanks for that link BTW - lots of useful info there.

Hmmmmm fog lights . . . hadn't thought of that. The Terrano has two big fogs on bars on the front. Just need a couple of relays. Sweet.

I was tempted to use the old DRL unit from my parts truck, but then I took a look at the difference in the wiring diagrams. Rather drop $40 for on an aftermarket unit than spend the same amount on meds for my headache! Besides, if I use the factory unit, which I think dims my low-beams, then I can't install the HID kit that I want Canadian spec headlights US spec headlights

When running DRLs, its only the lights in the front that come on, no tail lights. In North America, and in some other countries, DRL functionality was basically an adaption of the existing lights on the vehicle - be that dimmed low beams, side markers or turn signal lamps. Done this way to save the automakers money. The European Union has just brought in new legislation that new cars built after February 2011 must be fitted with separate dedicated energy efficient DRLs as factory standard. Most of these are low ampage LED systems. Though the difference in power consumption isn't huge between dimmed low-beams and dedicated LED DRLs, when summed up over a year for all vehicles on the road in Europe, its a huge difference in fuel consumption and carbon emissions - at least that's the EU's thinking. Or maybe its some kind of economic stimulus package as their economies go belly-up!

The RIV - register of imported vehicles - only applies to imports from the US as far as I can discern from their website. My import broker at terra2imports and the Canada Boarder Service Agency have taken care of things at the Vancouver end after it arrived from Japan. Just waiting to get the Bill of Sale and the Vehicle Import Form 1 so I can get it through the Out of Province inspection and then licensed here in Alberta.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that to import a vehicle into the US it had to be 25 years old or greater, unless it was your personal property that you had owned and used for a year or more outside the country. That's pretty much Canada's regs too, but we've only got a 15 year limit, not 25.

Yeah, its a bit of a PITA having to go through all the compliance stuff. Trying to find out what the exact rules and regs are is a nightmare. Going on different forums for Japanese imports just confuses the issue further as no one seems to know what they're talking about! But, after ignoring all the misinformed talk on ricer forums out there and going directly to government websites, basically the Canada Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 108 requires DRLs on all vehicles made or imported after January 1, 1990. Vehicles made before this are grandfathered, but it does mean that my '92 Terrano will require them. Same as if I was importing a Pathy from the US. Like the idea of a resistor and a relay. Wouldn't need a photosensor either as I could have it switch off when I switch on my low-beams. I still want to know whether to dim my low-beams, have my side lights on, or have my indicators on full time so its the same as the Can-spec Pathy. As to why, well I guess its more useful up here further north with our really short days and low sun angles and crappy weather. I think the mandatory use of DRLs started in Scandinavia, where according to several reports the safety effect is roughly triple the benefit observed in relatively bright Israel and America. In the US though there appears to be very little difference between the safety record of vehicles equipped with DRLs and those without. Nevertheless, pretty much all new GM products now have DRLs, even in the US. Saab, Volkswagen, Volvo, Suzuki, Subaru, Honda and some Toyotas have them in the US too apparently. - thank heavens for Wikipedia for all this info!

On a Canadian spec WD21, which lights come on as daytime running lights, and are they at full or reduced brightness? Full beams? Low beams? Indicators? Side/parking lights? I'm required by law in Canada for my imported Terrano to have daytime running lights so that it passes inspection. Which means I can't just run with the headlights on during the day - has to be automatic. And I'd like it to be the same as the original Canadian-market Pathy. I could swap the DRL module from my old dead parts Pathy out, but looking at the difference in wiring diagrams, it seems easier to drop $40 on an off-the shelf unit.

Here's Part II . . . Mounting systems Depends on how much you want to carry and where, and how much cash or effort you want to expend. Roof basket probably the easiest and simplest. Just strap down your fuel container in your roof basket. Make sure its leak-proof, especially if not carried upright! Make sure its secure in all directions. Don’t use bungees as it will slide around, break free, abrade through and leak. Ratchet straps are ideal. DIY / Custom built mounts the limit is your imagination, from simple boxes, frames and holders in roof baskets to well-built tire-carrier shelving systems. Proprietary clamp systems can be DIY / custom adapted for your application. Most off-the-shelf tire carrier mounts are made for Jeeps, Toyotas etc, but they can give you ideas for building your own if you’re good with a welder and pipe bender. Con-Ferr Blitz clamp mounts designed specifically for cans such as the Blitz 5 gallon with a lip on the underside. Will not work with plastic cans. Will need to be adapted to your mounting application. Automotive Customizers makes a kit to mount the clamp to the Pathfinders swing-away tire carrier, but there may be issues of space if carrying larger than a 31” tire. Really though, your imagination is the limit when finding suitable places to attach these. e.g. Trail Duty, Automotive Customizers Tire mounts Con-Ferr makes a mount plate that adapts the above clamping system to bolt directly to your spare tire using the existing lug nuts. Not sure if this would work for our Nissan’s as I’ve never seen on in the flesh. (e.g. Trail Duty) Also, some of the Pathfinder tire carriers had a square 1” or 1.5” opening much like a small receiver hitch in the middle. A fabricated plate for a clamp mount with a 1” square tube could be used, hitch-mount style on such tire carriers. Rotopaxhave a neat system with two brackets for their Rotopax containers that strap either side of your spare tire with a heavy duty ratchet. They’re adaptable to most offroad tire sizes and means that you can carry your fuel can mounts for those trips into the bush, but don’t have to schlep around the whole assembly when in town. Blitz Box type Generic 5 gallon fuel container holder by Blitz. Can sits in the bottom and is secured by a strap. Vertical or flat mountable, it requires fabrication of some kind of adapter (and available space!) to mount it to the Pathfinder’s tire carrier. (e.g. Blitz, Trail Duty etc) NATO box type Large metal (aluminum or steel) fuel can holders to accommodate full military spec metal or plastic fuel containers. Often with locking clamp. May be specific to type of fuel container. Typically can be mounted in various orientations – flat, vertical, sideways. Can be mounted in roof baskets but would require a fabricated mounting system to fit the Pathfinder tire carrier. Many manufactures (e.g. Expedition Exchange, Adventure Trailers etc) Hitch mounts Baskets, boxes and carriers that attach to your rear receiver hitch. Many auto stores, Walmart etc carry these. However, they assume two things: first, that you have a rear receiver hitch(!); second that you don’t intend to go offroad! They’re typically low slung and extend a ways out behind your truck and will destroy any departure angle you may have. Rotopax For the Rotopax proprietary fuel, water and storage containers Solid aluminum camming system for a variety of mounting options Adaptor plates for vertical and horizontal applications as well as strap-to-spare tire mounting Available from Rotopax and Automotive Customizers Any more ideas, please post!!

Looking at the options for my Terrano build for carrying spare fuel and water . . . I know there’s a 2007-vintage thread about fuel containers and mounts for them here, but after doing some more research on the net, I thought I’d add some info and compile some of the old stuff. If I’ve missed stuff (and I’m sure I have) please add to it. Firstly, why carry extra fuel? To quote herm in the old post . . . Really depends on how you drive though. Having had a fuel can on the back of my old Pathfinder, I’ve used it multiple times on trails here in Alberta and British Columbia. It’s always good to have that insurance policy when heading off into the bush. Certainly for multiday trips, camping adventures, etc, I’d say that’s pretty essential. And I’ve used my spare fuel to top up friends in very thirsty Jeeps many times as well. Plus there’s the aesthetics of it – it just looks pretty darned rugged to be sporting fuel cans. Looks like you mean business! Remember though, when mounting fuel cans to your rear tire carrier, make sure you don’t obscure your tail lights! Fuel Can Options Depends on how and where you want to mount your can, weight, availability (CARB restrictions in the US) but you should never carry fuel inside the vehicle. Getting high on vapors while driving, let alone the risk of a fire is just not worth it. Plastic flat-bottom squat, flat-bottomed with low centre of gravity “regular” fuel cans available in a range of different sizes lightweight, easy to handle, most are CARB compliant available in various fuel types & water can be lashed to roof baskets using ratchet straps some cheaper plastics prone to fade in UV easily available from gas stations, hardware stores, Walmart etc. e.g. Scepter, Wedco, Blitz Plastic “Jeep style" modeled on military NATO or traditional Jerry-can styles tall and top-heavy, typically 5 gals / 20 liters should be leak-proof so can be carried flat can be strapped to roof basket but benefits from mounted holders some cheaper plastics prone to fade in UV not as easily available, may need special order, internet may not fit regular NATO can mounts due to slight taper and rounded base e.g. Scepter (Part #05086) Steel Blitz type as plastic “Jeep Style” above also, metal lip on base for clamp mounting powder coat prone to flaking, fuel damage, corrosion availability varies, special order, 4x4 stores, internet Blitz, Automotive Customizers, Trail Duty Plastic Mil-spec NATO Full military specification NATO fuel can heavy duty construction 5 gal / 20 liter (also some smaller sizes) typically available in sand or olive drab only (for fuel) colorfast non-fading plastic heavy duty pouring spout, may not be CARB compliant benefits from mounted holders leak-proof and rebuildable with replacement parts availability varies, army surplus outlets, 4x4 stores, internet e.g. Scepter Military, National 4WD, DS Tactical Metal Mil-spec NATO The archetypal Jerry can heavy duty construction 5 gal / 20 liter aluminum or steel ex-military typically available in sand or olive drab, but can be painted off-the-shelf Wedco versions in red, yellow, blue etc Old mil-spec versions NOT CARB compliant New Wedco ones are CARB compliant and thus easier to source should be leak-proof benefits from mounted holders e.g army surplus outlets, Wedco, Expedition Exchange Rotopax Type plastic heavy duty & colorfast 1, 2, 3, & 4 gal sizes various fuel types, plus matching storage containers, 1st aid kits etc leak-proof, can be carried in any orientation mounts through a centre hole heavy duty & CARB compliant multiple proprietary mount systems available limited availability, manufacture’s website Rotopax, Automotive Customizers

My daily driver - and currently only vehicle until the customs paperwork is delivered and I can actually get my Terrano out of the shipper's lot . . . The Duke 2004 Chrysler PT Cruiser GT convertible, high out-put engine package, MOPAR stage 1 turbo upgrade, MOPAR high performance spark plug wires, after market blow-off valve, Nokian Hakkapeliitta 5s studded winter tires - the stick like glue!!

Starting to get cold here now up in Edmonton, heading for -35C again by mid winter no doubt! So as I'm getting a diesel Terrano from Japan, I damn well want to make sure it starts on a cold winter day. Plug-in heaters are what's needed. Anyone on the forum got any experience of installing these, ideally on a diesel TD27T engine, but on any Pathfinder would do. What's better - a frost plug block heater or an in-line coolant circulating heater? And then the next question, where does one install such a beast!? Especially the circulating heater? Also, is it worth installing an oil pan heater in the transmission? Again, are there any suitable ports in which to install one? The Phillips & Temro Zerostart line has probably got some suitable applications, but figuring out what will be the appropriate ones will be issue. Cheers Mark

Darn it! And there was me thinking of all the possible complex issues it could have been . . . Sorry the part question never occurred to me in our message discussions.

Gazed at my old parts truck and thought of all the good times we'd had together Thought about my new Terrano on the train from Vancouver Ordered some more parts from my big build! - Irok NDs, ProComp rims, new thermostat, set of glow plugs, set of injectors Dropped by Kal-Tire to ask about passing the out of province inspection. Damn, I want to start work on that Terrano already!

I think the logo on the door is actually something the previous owner added. Can't really see it on these pics, but the auction photo showed a shield emblem with NISMO on it and a bunch of other stuff. Seeing as the truck's got an aftermarket NISMO steering wheel, I think the previous owner added it. Looks pretty cool though.

Think I may keep the RHD. I like being different Anyway, was thinking of running 33X12.50R15 Interco IROK NDs on 15"x8" rims with a 3.75" back space with my 3" body and 3" suspension lift. Happy to accept a little trimming and panel beating! Just wondering what people thought about that and if anyone has practical experience of running that set-up. Don't want to get this selection wrong!

Yeah, apparently Canadian insurance companies think right hand drive is dangerous. That's despite thousands of "indigenous" right hand drive vehicles such as garbage trucks, mail delivery vans, road sweepers etc running on the roads every day. Some study done in British Columbia "proved" that they were more dangerous, but their stats were pretty suspect, and skewed by the fact that most RHD Japanese imports are high performance sports cars driven by young kids!! Means I can pretty much expect basic personal liability and property damage insurance only. Hard push to find comprehensive!

LOL, yeah, that RHD stuff may prove a little interesting, but I'm a UK ex-pat so used to the wheel on the passenger's side! RHD is proving a pain in the rear end when it comes to getting meaningful insurance though

Hi, I'm Mark. Posted on here a couple of times but . . . Now I've finally got my truck, well almost! Its in Vancouver waiting to clear customs and ship to Edmonton. 1992 Terrano 2.7l R3M WBYD21 turbo diesel with only 53,000km on the clock!! This is going to be a major build, after learning on my old 1994 SE V6 Pathy. Sadly, frame rot and a whole bunch of other issues turned that into my parts truck. I was running a 3" SL on 31x10.5R15 rubber, snorkel, manual hubs etc. Much of that can swap over to the "new" diesel truck, but will be adding a 3" body lift as well, winch bumper, hydraulic winch, front and back lockers etc. Want to run 33" rubber as well. I'm still scouring all the threads to find the best 15" rim (best width? best backspace?) and 33" tire (best width?, brand suggestions?) for a Pathy/Terry with a 3 & 3 lift. But I can't seem to find anything informative. Perhaps I'm just being dense! Any suggestions on what's best to run, or directions to the "rim and tire thread of all knowledge" would be very gratefully received. First thing though is to get it through the out-of-province inspection, the body lift in, and then coat the devil out of the underbody and frame with POR15!! Anyway, here are a couple of picks of the truck in Japan awaiting shipping plus one of my old Pathy in action before she died! Happy wheeling. Mark

OK - update. No go on this truck. Rough idle, trany problems, issues with ball joints, tie rod ends and wheel bearings, strange electrical gremlins. At least the dealer was honest to give me a run down of negative points. None of these things is too bad, but if I'm going to buy a truck for close to $6000, even of this vintage, I want it to be a bit smoother than that, specially if I'm going to drive it half way across western Canada to get it home. Anyway, if anyone is interested in it, check out Bluenose Motor Company in Parksville, Vancouver Island, British Columbia. The search continues . . . Dieselboy