shasdakota

incase anyone's interested, you can get 10.9 M14x1.25x65mm bolts @: http://mdmetric.com/ but you have to get minimum 10, and they're $4.47ea... only place i can find 'em, and i contacted at least 10 places... and here's 10.9 M14 washers for use as shims: http://www.nutsandbolts.com/m14-metric-flat-washer-109-qty-25-p-2945.html

hey sewebster, did you need any shims before your susp lift?

nice, thanks adam...

got my manual hubs on!

well, that was my problem. i wasnt removing all the parts of my auto hub before i was trying to install my locking hub. so the D21 hub does fit the WD21, so long as the spline count is the same at least...

well, this post answered my install questions. looks liek i need to remove more stuff before installing the manual hubs. i wonder if they will fit if i remove all this stuff? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1405

i can only find 28 spline hubs for the WD21. even in that link you posted. i'm positive i have 27 splines. the 27 spline hubs i just bought fit on, they just arent long enough. i still think i'm missing something about the install. do you guys have to remove anything besides the auto hubs when your swapping to manual hubs? is something off my cv axle spindle supposed to come off? EDIT- Just read the second post 27 and 28 spline hubs are interchangeable?

hey guys, i'll be replacing my stock TRE's with some new one's from Moog. but i didnt order any Moog Adjusting Sleeves (the center portion that the TRE's thread into), because they didnt have any in stock, and my adjusting sleeves look fine. my question is, will i be able to use the Moog TRE's with the stock nissan adjusting sleeve? i know the nissan sleeve will be metric, and i presume the Moog adjusting sleeve should also be metric, since they are from Japan. does anyone know? thanks, josh

@!*%. the desprcription of the hubs said they were for a 27 spline Pathfinder. but now i realize its for a D21 not WD21. crap. so, what, no manual hubs for the Terrano??? gonna have to ask the NZ/AUS guys whats up...

someone mentioned that maybe the inner/outter part of my CV shafts have seperated when i removed my auto hubs and this is why my new manual hubs arent fitting. has anyone ever had this happen?

so the instructions also ask to remove the drive flange, but i dont know what that is... i still think i might be doing something wrong, because they ask you to remove this snap ring before installing the hubs, as if that changes something, but i dont see any difference between trying to install the hub with the snap ring in place or with out it.

here's some pics. the instructions ask for you to seperate the dust cover and snap ring from the hub assembly, and then i should be able to install them, but they're still coming up short. from left to right this is the hub assembly, snap ring, and dust cover: anyone know what i'm missing?

Pics! my new poly bushings: front sway bar- tension rod- (also notice all the rust-free metal!) this is my new re-furbished Sanden SD508 AC Compressor (w/8.4CFM) and adjustable bracket that i will be turning into a air compressor for endless on board air: my used 3L Isuzu Trooper Intercooler. still need to clean it up, sand and paint. and i just ordered silicone couplers and a small e-fan for it. i hope to connect it using what i have or else i may need to get custom flanges made up for it. here it is: and my PCV oil catch can. i never got pics up of it before. the other end leads to my K&N PCV filter:

hey guys, yesterday i got my Mile Marker #430 manual hubs in the mail. but i wasnt able to install them. the spline count is right, but they dont seem long enough. i have a Terrano, but i dont see how this would change things. the hubs didnt come with any good directions, and i presumed it would be as easy as removing my old hubs, and installing the new hubs. what am i doing wrong? see how there's a gap between the hubs, and my rotor plate (the thing the wheel sits on- not sure on the proper terminology). i cant push it on anymore than that. what am i missing? EDIT- after re-reading the instructions, i realized i was possibly removing the wrong snap ring. they ask you to seperate the dust cover and a snap ring from the hub assembly before installing. today i found another snap ring inside the hub assembly. i removed it, and now the hub assembly is free, but it doesnt help me to get the hubs on. still seem to small... thanks for your input, josh

not sure if anyone's reading this anymore, but, i just got a 1" susp lift kit, do you think i'll still need shims/longer uca spindle bolts with this small of susp lift? i dont have any shims now, and i am able to get properly aligned...

right, when you put it back on it should be torqued and backed off, like you said. i did that the best i could using what i had. the lock nut socket will let you attach a torque wrench and be more precise, but i managed without. i got all the way into it before i realized i was supposed to have a lock nut socket, and i didnt want to re-assemble and order a lock nut socket. maybe i'll get one before i have to pack my bearings next time...

hey MY1PATH, lets see some pics of that dummy steering box of yours, i'm interested...

Hey guys, I'm looking for someone who feels like making some of these slider plates for a fee. these are what kiwi pete and some of his buddy's are running down in NZ to reduce the upward travel of the TRE/centerlink, and therefore reduce stress on these parts, which is especially important after a suspension lift. i'm about to do a suspension lift soon, and until i get a Grassroots centerlink, i'd like to run these things. i dont have a welder (yet), and i dont know anyone who welds, so i'm hoping there will be someone on here that feels like making a few bucks doing some fabrication. i'm sure there might be other people interested in these things. if anyone else is interested in slider plates, let us know, and then if we can find someone to make these it will be more worthwhile for them, and they can make more $$. here's some pics:

i like the looks of those bushwacker "cut-out" flares also. keep us updated if you manage to fit some...

that spindle lock nut isnt torqued on there or anything. i didnt use a special socket to pull mine. i just fit a needle nose pair of pliers into both holes, and then turned it by using a screwdriver through the plier handles. (if that makes sense). its probably screwed on with 5ft/lbs of torque...

alrite, found some 10.9 metric fine pitch bolts. now is that a 65mm shank or 65mm total length bolt i want? for anyone else that needs longer uca spindle bolts, you can get some here: http://www.ezaccessory.com/Lug_Bolt_Ball_Seat_Mercedes_p/989.htm they're for lug nuts, but its the only 10.9 steel metric fine pitch bolts i can find. i wrote a few fastner places to ask if they have any regular hex bolts, so maybe some regular bolts will turn up... EDIT x2- shoot, just realized those arent 10.9 steel... i been searching for to long... loosing my mind... they dont seem to make the bolts i need... EDIT x 3- ok, maybe i'm not crazy. it doesnt say what those lug nuts are, but i was linked to that site for a replacement source to 10.9 steel mercedes lug nuts. so, i think they might be 10.9 steel... can anyone clarify the 65mm measurement for me? (shank or total length)

adamzan- i am interested in your coils, i will send you a pm... dowser- i here what your saying... koveman- thanks for the instructions! well, i think i know all i need to know now... unless someone has a link for 10.9 bolts...

how about these moog shims? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1211870,parttype,10657,a,www.google.ca%2BSearch%2Bfor%2BSuspension%2BAlignment%2BShim%2BMOOG they come in either 1, 2, or 3mm... whatdaya think i should get? or should i just get 10.9 steel washers? where are you guys getting 10.9 steel bolts? i can only find 10.9 M14x2mm bolts... i heard people say they got 'em @ bolt depot, but they dont have 10.9 M14x1.5mm bolts either. they do have M14x1.5mm 8.8 steel bolts though... will 8.8 steel be good enough?

i like the idea of moving the exhaust pipe. nice job jymyers23. i want to make a 2.5" stainless big bore exhaust when i start welding (eventually). and when i do i want to move where it exits. i'd like it to come out of the body, about parallel in height to where the fuel tank cap is. but i dont want it to end near flush with the truck like yours, i want to continue the exhaust along the truck towards the back and have it end just past the rear of the truck. my purpose for doing this will be to just make it harder for water to enter. and i think it will make the exhaust pipe straighter as well, as there is a big bend in it right now where they make it go up and over the rear upper link cross member. if anyone has the ARB catalog there's a pic on pg.51 of a truck entering a river with a modded exhaust like the one i just described, so i cant take credit for this idea... i cant find a pic on-line...

Great info here guys! thanks for helping me out!! Dowser- i have 4.6 gears now. if i ever did re-gear, i thought i'd go to 5.14. and if i ever did that, i'd want to get lockers as well, and i'd have to get a 3rd member, cause i have a rear lsd now. anyways, thats entirely way to much for me to spend anytime soon. but it is interesting to hear you think 4.6 gears and 33" tires work well together. and your saying that driving with the stock centerlink and suspension lift is that dangerous? i know i've read of several guys here using the stock centerlink with their susp lift. i wont be off roading hard until next summer, by which time i should have my Grassroots centerlink. for the next 6 months or so, my rig will only be used on pavement. i'd really like to use my stock centerlink for the time being. i have a ton of projects on the go, and not enough $$ to go around... yes, i came across a great thread here on re-indexing the torsion bars, and also a great thread on the uca spindle. some real great info here... the only question i still have about this is what type of washer shims i should use. what do you mean by getting shims "that dont fall out when you hit a curb"? Adamzan- thanks for that info on alignment. luckily i found a great nissan dealer in the suburbs here where the manager and several employees have lifted up/modded nissan's, they should be able to do a good job. Jamesrich- i'm really leaning towards the 1.5" lift, i dont want ball joint spacers, and i've read of several people running into trouble trying to lift the front high enough to match 3" lift springs. maybe it depends on how worn your torsion bars are? i think mine must be pretty good, its not sagging at all, but i still dont think i want to stress out my steering that much.... and believe me, i'd love to slide a solid axle under my front end, i've done a ton of research, and actually have a pretty good idea of what i would need to do. but i started pricing things out and realized it would just be way to expensive for me. i'll have to wait until i get a new truck to get a solid front axle, or at least break my IFS. so until then, a suspension lift is all we will do. and i really think i might be better off with the smaller lift... tough decision for me though... The other question i have is about swapping out my rear coil springs. i did a ton of searching here, and i came across a ton of threads reviewing suspension lift components, and that great thread about re-indexing the torsion bars, but i never saw any threads on actually doing the suspension lift. if i missed it, just post a link please. i think i know what i'm doing, my only question is about the rear coils. do i need 4 axle stands? i was thinking i would remove my rear tires, lift the rear end, put axle stands under the frame, and put 2 more axle stands under my rear axle, then dis-connect the bottom end of my shocks (since i will be keeping them), (and my rear sway bar is already removed), and then compress the coils to remove . and then use the 2 axle stands under my rear axle to lower my axle a bit so i can fit in the longer coils. or do i even need to lower my axle to fit longer coils? can i just compress them and install them in the space left by my stock coils? will they fit like that? do i need to dis-connect my rear trac-bar? i'd like to hear what you guys are doing. and if anyone has any other helpful tips that are usually overlooked, i'd love to hear about them also. EDIT- are must of you getting more lift than advertised in the rear? maybe i'll get 2"+ lift with the AC 1.5" coils, which is just what i wanted... EDIT x2- what about brake lines? do i need extended brake lines to do the suspension lift, or can i at least wait until i get longer shocks to get some longer brake lines as well?