RedRider3141

The fluid didn't smell odd, but my allergies were so bad I couldn't smell much. I used to use ATF in the forks of my dirt bikes (manual actually specifies it!) and when it was time to change the ATF smelled like Bad Kitty Liter, this smelled nothing like that. I don't tow often maybe 1 time a month if that. When I do It's my 3 rail trailer with a dirt bike or two. Does the R50 Have a trailer/towing package? I have a factory hitch, if that is an indicator of an OEM cooler.

So, I've been driving a 5 speed for the last 7 years and I just got my Pathfinder this Jan with an AT. I've been a little out of the loop on what is normal for a AT, this weekend confirmed some suspicions though. I'd like to get the boards thoughts on the issues I've been having. 1) Jan-May AT slips between 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 when cold, ONCE. Once it has gone through the gears it doesn't slip again even if it hasn't warmed up. Now that it is June it doesn't do this any more. 2) I took my 3rd trip over the mountains this weekend. Each time was similar 2-3 guys and a 2,500lbs motorcycle trailer (GW) The pass is steep long. The first two times was in the winter and the latest last weekend. This time when I got to my destination my whole tail gate and trailer was covered in a fine mist of fluid. I checked oil and ATF. Oil was good (I had just changed it 1 week before) and ATF was HIGH, way high, hot or cold it reads high. 3) ATF was clearish, redish, brown, it didn't smelled burnt like oil can be. 4) In city driving it seems like the RPMs are always at 2,000, it doesn't ever stay below that when my foot is even ever so slightly pushing on the throttle. I'm used to lugging my Explorer with the manual. That thing spent most of its life at 1,100-1,500 RPM. Long story short based on the color and level alone I am getting the tranny flushed tomorrow and refilled with a good synthetic fluid from a shop I trust. I hope it fixes the other issues too. What do you guys think?

My '01 has the same positions, 2H, 4H and 4L. That's kind of a bummer, using 2L came in handy once in awhile.

Bump for my question: With the Manual Hubs and Manual Transfer Case can I use 4x2 Low? In other words leave the hubs in 4x2 but switch my manual transfer case into Low Range? I know I can physically do it but I wanted to know if it will cause any damage to the Pathfinder. I did this every once in a while in my Explorer and found it handy option.

So I've been reading up on the "Death Wobble" In responce to some rear end clunks and a little high speed shimmy and I came accross some Dorman Trailing Arms for $80 a peice at Autozone. Anybody have any experience with them, are they decent? Would I be better off just buying the OEM ones or good poly bushings? http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-28154-905-804.aspx

Problem solved... Kind of. It turns out my 2nd row of seats DO recline. I just leaned them back to tighten the gap down to around 1"-2". That will work for now.

An aftermarket OEM style bumper or a fabricated type? I haven't seen much of either online but that would be much easier. Yes, for both reasons and yup that's not my truck, sadly. I like both front ends but the project sounded kind of cool plus I was planning an HID swap at the same time since most of the QX4s I've seen have HIDs, I assumed it was common. I'm outside of Seattle, WA I don't dislike the Pathy front end, I just like the QX4 too. Actually I noticed your grille is different in the pic I posted (Came up under a Google Image Search "Pathfinder Grille") is that an LE grille?

My bump has some paint peel so obviously the only solution is to replace the whole front end... Anyways, I was noticing the QX4 had a pretty sharp looking front end. Will the QX4 Bumper, Headlights, Grille and hood swap over to a Pathfinder?

I found a pic online of what it looks like out of the truck:

I have 8" from the front edge of the cover to the back of the rear seats. I'll see if I can get some pics when it's a bit lighter. I was planning on using some sheet aluminum or stiff cardboard and fasten it to the top and leading edge to make up the gap. The big issue would be storing the cover when I fold down the seats to put large items in the back.

Well, a couple snows and lots of true 4x2 driving and the hubs have worked like a champ! I've only put 2 tankfuls on it so far but it seems that my mileage is way up from before. I'm going to give it a few more tanks before I judge the true improvement but so far I'd definitely say there is a gain to be had by switching to manuals. I can't think of a big down side either unless you randomly come across situations that require 4x4. One more question from this Pathfinder noob. Can I use 4x2 Low? In other words leave the hubs in 4x2 but switch my manual transfer case into Low Range? I know I can physically do it but I wanted to know if it will cause any damage to the Pathfinder. I did this every once in a while in my Explorer and found it handy option.

My Pathfinder was missing the rear Cargo Shade (the pull out one) and I just got an OEM one from eBay. Problem is that it doesn't cover the entire area! Is this normal? Was this because of the option for reclining rear seats? Its actually pretty stout and I think I should be able to modify it to cover the entire area but I wanted to make sure before I started changing it.

Well it turns out a guy at work is selling a Flex-a-lite model 210 NIB. Only problem is that it is only 2500 CFM, says it is rated for up to 250HP... How sure are you that the stock fan is 3000 CFM? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-210/?rtype=10

Thanks for the info, that's exactly the setup I was thinking about. I may add a manual override just for the heck of it so I can turn it on or off if needed. Was your fan from a donor vehicle or aftermarket?

I tried doing a search but it didn't bring up anything, which doesn't mean anybody hasn't done it. I was thinking of using this PDF as a starting point but I wasn't sure what the CFM was of the stock VQ35 Fan. Anybody have some tips? http://www.mysporttr...EFanInstall.pdf:clickdalink:

Another vote for synthetic here. I used it in my old Explorer and I'm racking up the miles on the cheap stuff the dealer put in so I can put some synthetic in my Pathfinder. The explorer had 150K+ miles when I switched. It burned a quart every 3000 miles on dino and a quart every 3000 miles on synthetic. I ran 6000 mile intervals and didn't notice the oil get dirty until around 5K. No issues after 40,000 miles. If the old Ford OHV 4.0L could take it I'm sure the VQ35 would love it. I run full synthetic in all my dirt bikes too even though they do not require it. They are air cooled and greatly benefit from the synthetic oil for keeping cool. They also share oil between the crank, engine, gearbox and wet clutch so it takes alot of abuse compared to a car oil.

Yes and No. It makes sense for me 9 months out of the year when I never touch my hubs. The real problem is that they look so nice on the truck!

Another thing I figured out: If you have these wheels http://www.pathyoffr...535.preview.jpg then the OEM center Cab will fit right over the Hubs, no cutting required. In case you ever wanted to hide your trucks bling.

Just finished my install. Just in time for the Snowpocalypse that Seattle is supposed to have this week. All went well. Thanks for all the advice and pictures from everyone above. A few notes: 1) Don't forget to re-install the circlip! Get a pair of Circlip pliers and a third hand to help remove them to begin with. It isn't that difficult but this by far takes the longest of anything required for the install. 2) I used the OEM studs, they are a tad short; I like to have 2-3 threads exposed. Mine had .1-.5 threads sticking out. Not Ideal but there where still more threads engaged than with the stock nuts, plus they are lock nuts. I'll keep an eye on them for a while and if they start backing off I'll loctite them or replace them with bolts. 3) QX4donalds Hammer trick worked awesome! 4) I left my center cab off, like this guy did: http://www.pathyoffroad.com/files/images/DSC_2535.preview.jpg 5) I f you get Warns buy from Amazon, the Warns are 160 and you can get free shipping.

So, with the manuals, theoretically, can you leave them locked all the time, since that would basically be the same setup as with the drive flanges? My 'Ex (Sold it! Yay!) wasn't supposed to be driven with the hubs locked in above 55mph regardless of T-Case Position. That would be handy when going skiing because then I could lock the hubs at home and just use the T-Case to switch into 4x4 when needed.

Speaking from recent experience: I just removed the Alpine HU that came in my Pathfinder to put in my Kenwood (I just liked the one I was familiar with better). Both Stereos had the power antennae wire. I left it N/C on my car since I have a stationary mount. I noticed alot of other weird/ unfamiliar stuff in the dash that I'll post in another topic.

Thanks for all the great Ideas Guys! I'll start looking into them. So far I have raised up the rear wheels to check to see if the wheels would spin freely. Both sides felt equal and since I am only smelling it on the RHS I'm guessing that it probably isn't brakes.