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RedRider3141

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Everything posted by RedRider3141

  1. Hey fellow Washington residents, I'm looking into buying a project car from a family member and the title was "mis-filed" and is now lost. Since I'm working with someone I trust how would you go about securing the title and transferring ownership?
  2. Well, after all the "fixes" I haven't had the problem comeback! I took the Pathfinder camping over Memorial Day weekend and had the key on/off several times and had 0 trouble. The occurrence was so random before I'm not 99% sure it's gone but I'm happy that it hasn't come back so far. Thanks again for all the suggestions.
  3. I just loosened and re-tightened the 6-7 I found in the engine bay.
  4. All good suggestions, thanks! -I checked the battery terminals, gooey but no corrosion. the neg. terminal was a bit loose. I removed both terminals and wiped them, cleaned them with a terminal brush and reinstalled and made sure they were tight. I'm pretty sure I disconnected the battery while doing my fog wiring changes. -Battery was at 12.5V after sitting all night, 14.3 V with the car running at a high idle, 14.2 with all the load I could put on it (defroster, heated seats, headlights). -With the key on I jiggled all of the wiring at the battery and both fuse/ relay junction boxes under the hood. Neither resulted in anything but like I said the problem hasn't ever happened at a cold start (yet). The only modifications to the fog lights where in the driver's side relay junction box. if the problem keeps up I will dismantle the box again and check my work (I've got fairly good confidence in my work but the whole headlamp/ fog light wiring is overly complicated, it was obviously inspired by Nissan's legal team.) I also have a battery that is of unknown age but of seemingly good shape, it might be worth replacing if the problem keeps up.
  5. So, in the last few days after driving the Pathfinder and then stopping, key off, getting out of it and then getting back in and trying to start it I get NOTHING. No dashlights/ domelights/ radio, etc.Then after 1-2 minutes of head scratiing and cycling the key everything comes back Except my trip information (milage) and radio settings are wiped. It did it to me once about a month ago at a fuel stop and it did it to me 3X on thursday as I was running around town doing errands. It's never done it while moving just at stops when I take the key out. Any clues on where to start? Is this common? The only thing I can think of is I did some rewiring on the fog lights so that they could stay on with the running lights (amber) instead of the lowbeams. I don't really see how this can be related but it's all I've got.
  6. What a great idea! I'm right in the middle of this and I used this to get my rear lower bolt off. Worked like a charm. I even used my 1/2 ratchet (yes I know, bad but it is a really cheap 1/2 ratchet) so I could jack it up and then let it down then jack it back up untill it was all loose. This is after 1/2 hour of airtools and PB blaster and Propane torch. I'm not sure the geometry will let this work on the passenger side...
  7. I ordered all new shocks, struts and rear axle trailing arms (2 lower, 2 upper) for my 2001 R50. The shocks/ struts arrived today but the links are still 5 states away. Tommorrow is looking like it's gonna be some great winter weather (clear and +45F) Any reason why I wouldn't replace the shocks first? Will it save me alot of trouble if I wait and do everything at once?
  8. I spoiled it rotten by ordering all new struts, shocks and rear axle links. Maybe she'll stop making all those bad sounds at me now...
  9. "Gutsiest move I ever saw, Mav"

  10. So after some more time and more miles I am finally looking into doing the rear control arms. I found the same Doorman Arms on Amazon for $50 per arm so $200 total plus tax for all four. That is about the same as the split bushings but with out the added labor of removing my old bushings. My question is: For a pavement pounding 150,000 vehicle is it worth the effort to go Poly? To be honest if the doorman arms got me another 50K miles, I'd be happy. Will they last that long?
  11. If I'm reading it right he had two codes, one of the MAF and one for the VTC system. Replacing the MAF eliminated the 2500RPM stumble AND the MAF Code leaving only the P1140. According to the Nissan Manual P1140 can be caused by: I Harness or connectors (Intake valve timing control position sensor circuit is open or shorted) I Intake valve timing control position sensor. I Crankshaft position sensor (REF) I Crankshaft position sensor (POS) I Camshaft position sensor (PHASE) When I went through my troubles with these sensors I went through all my grounds like the manual says, loosen them just enough to break any corrosion and reseat them. I also checked all my connectors in that harness to make sure they where seated all the way and were free of corrosion. I noticed the sensor connectors didn't always want to seat properly 100% of the time. I then went after the IVTC Sensor since that seemed to be the most common fix. I wished I had replaced both to begin with to avoid replacing the solenoid like I did. Anyways, not to get off topic. Since it costs only time I would try switching the sensor. Even if the same P1140 code persists, it still tells you something. It tells you that it's not the sensors and you can move on to try something else. A note on using a meter to check the sensors. I am competent with a multimeter and both of my BAD sensors read the same as the new sensors that worked.
  12. I think poor flowing Air boxes are universal. Over on the Explorer Forums it was known as "Swiss Cheesing" your air box. Basically taking a >1" hole saw and drilling out the sides. Same goes for most dirt bike air boxes. For DRZ400s it is known as the 3x3 Mod. Someone put a DRZ on a Dyno and kept making the airbox hole bigger until the power stopped increasing. The final shape was 3" by 3", hence 3x3. I'm sure the Pathfinder is no different. It's all about the EPA.
  13. Problem Solved! Solution: the other sensor was bad but it was misreading false timing advance 100% of the time so the computer threw the P1110 code instead of a P1145 or P1140. Short Story, I think my dealer is a joke and my Pathfinder is now running like a champ! Since my last post I changed my oil and planned on doing a few 1,000 mile interval oil changes to hopefully break up the "Oil Sludge" my dealer assured me was the issue. I didn't expect anything immediate to happen and nothing did. A few days later I got a little impatient and started to dig a little deeper. I was almost ready to remove the front access panels in front of the "sludged up cam gear" and send some compressed air through the cam gear solenoid. However, I got suspicious on how much sludge was actually in my motor. I ended up removing the two M6 bolts holding in the oil filler neck so I could get a straight shot view of my valve train. It was spotless, no sludge build up whatsoever. I then thought I should try swapping the sensors again (remember I have one brand new on I put on when I first made this thread and one older one (maybe not original since it didn't match the other side that I replaced, more on that below*)) I took it for a test spin and it again threw a code but NOT for P1110 like it had been for weeks and it had been when the dealer "diagnosed" it. Instead it threw a P1135 code. THE PROBLEM FOLLOWED THE SENSOR! Hurray! in less than 2 minutes I had a new sensor swapped back in so that I have two new sensors and SES light has been off ever since! Thanks again for all the help and suggestions and thanks Howie for suggesting to buy two sensors at one time, saved me a lot of grief. I wish I had just put in both from the beginning. Moral of the story is that those Cam Shaft Sensors can cause P1145 & P1140 OR P1110 or P1135. *Sensor differences: Of the 4 sensors I had, two old and two new, none of them were the quite the same. They all fit and were 100% the correct sensor but each one had slightly different part marking from the supplier and had a different torque limiter collar. Even the two Beck Arnley Parts I got from Amazon that came in the same Beck Arnely Boxes where different. It's not a big deal, just an observation.
  14. So The P1110 Code presists. I gave in and dropped it off with the dealer to diagnose. The result (according to the dealer): Oil sludge in the Cam Shaft Gear mech. or cam chain tensioner. The Solution: New valve train on BOTH banks, thats a total of $5,000 parts and labor... I'm obviously questioning why I would ever spend 5K on the Pathfinder only to still have a motor with 147,000 miles on it. I'm trying a few ideas first since I always work of the principle that dealers don't care about anything but the most expensive solution that will solve your problem. I figure worst case I will get into the motor myself and clean what needs to be clean. A few ideas that I'm going to try: -P1140, P1145 sensor swaps -Oil Change with thicker oil -Oil Change with 1 qt ATF fluid -Oil Flush I'm all ears to other suggestions.
  15. Diagnosed the VTC Solenoid (http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32751) and removed my Nerf Bars.
  16. Did some calling around and discovered the gasket is a covered metal gasket. I decided to remove the solenoid and see what's going on. I pulled the solenoid assembly and took a video of me performing the inspection on the solenoid: http://www.youtube.com/embed/KTmhU5Q0rf4 I flushed it out but really it looked really clean already. Before and after testing didn't seem to change it's performance.
  17. I looked through the Diagnostic section in the EC section of the manual (pages 449-451 in my copy) and it has three tests: 1) check 12V from Harness side of connector Result: GOOD 2) check continuity/ resistance between solenoid pins to each other and to ground Result: GOOD 3) apply 12V directly to Solenoid and check for "Click" Result: I hear a slight click but not nearly as loud as I expected. I'm guessing this means it is either bad (failed) or it is gummed up and is stuck. Has anyone else performed this test on their VQ35? I called the dealer and they were not helpful/ willing to help out without me coming in get a diagnostic performed. At this point I don't mind removing the solenoid and seeing if I can't flush it out and get it working again but I don't know if I should have a new gasket ready. Is it reusable or do I need a new one ready?
  18. Yeah, I've heard the same thing about higher weight oils I'd hate to waste fresh oil by swapping it out but I'll keep it in mind. With my current driving that's 9-10 months worth of oil down the drain! I think my next step may be to remove the solenoid and see if I can clean it out/ bench test it. It's just looking for 12v+/- right? If it moves it's good and if it doesn't it's bad. I was just reading through the EC section of the manual and I'd really like to get my hands on one of the Nissan Consult data tools. Is that a dealer only thing?
  19. Today, did some more investigations into my P1110 code issue. Your car sounds just like mine (I still haven't washed it this year) Washington sure is a great place for cars!
  20. Update on the issue: I cleared the code and it came on on my way BACK from work WHILE driving. This leads me to lean toward an issue with the solenoid. One possible cause for the issue is low oil. I have to admit when I put less than the recommended oil in. I dumped 5 qts in and checked the dip stick and it was 90-95% ful so I left it. Tonight I added the last 1/4 qt recommended by the manual (oil change with filter) and reset the codes. It's a slim chance that a 1/4 qt will make a difference but we'll see. I don't disagree with you, on all accounts, but I have some reasoning behind it, hopefully this won't turn in to one of those oil threads... 1) Fram filter, it was the ToughGuard. Fram used to make good, quality filters. I now see the light and agree they have suffered many cost saving shortcuts and I'm in no hurry to buy one again. 2) I got my K&N filters from Amazon for cheaper than Mobil1 filters were at the store. I also heard they are the same as Mobil 1 filters I will check for them next time, although that nut it pretty handy for a guy without a filter wrench. 3) I planned on changing the dealer oil at 3K and only taking the first Mobil1 oil change to 3K just to get a good baseline since I'm at least the second owner and I purchased it at ~140K. My last car ('Splorer) I did Full Synthetic and 6K mile intervals. That worked well for me and the car for the 80,000 miles I owned it.
  21. Just did a little more investigation with my code reader, didn't find a whole lot. I reset the code and started the engine. Didn't have time to test drive it but I'll drive it tomorrow to work and back. I did cycle it a few times in the drive way and the code hasn't come back... yet. Like I said I was driving it earlier fairly vigorously and it seems this can create a situation where the ECM will recognize the problem. In this case it was me essentially unintentionally drag racing an old guy in a caddy on a steep on ramp from the carpool lane. I was just meaning to overtake him but he was on the gas a lot more than I thought! I just kept the Pathfinder pinned and safely passed him before the end of the ramp while still staying within the speed limit. Usually on that particular ramp I'm passed the person before I'm out of second gear but the Pathfinder had to pull a little harder and longer this time. Anyways in a situation like this the ECM will notice the difference in cam position between the two banks and cause the code.
  22. Good question since the more I read the more I know that oil and oil pressure are related to the function of the solenoid. I'm about 1,000 miles into Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5W-30. Currently using a K&N oil filter. Problem first came up about 150-200 miles ago. Previous oil change was same 5W-30 Mobil one and Fram filter (changed after ~3K miles). Previous to that was Motorcraft oil of unknown weight and a motorcraft filter (Pathfinder came from a Ford dealer).
  23. Well Good News and Bad News. My Beck Arnley Sensor(s) showed up this weekend and I slapped one in place of the failed sensor and took it for a "spirited" drive... SES light again. Turns out it is P1110 that is coming on now... looks like more reading and researching the forums for me!
  24. Hey man, sorry for the delayed response. I really appreciate the offer but it's probably too late now. I'll check my local dealer, I need to stop by for some parts for my '01 anyways.
  25. Just got off the phone with the parts department at Eastside Nissan in Bellevue, WA and they quoted me $130+ PER SENSOR! I asked if they price matched online or could do any better since most of the posts I've been reading have been right around $80-$90 for the sensor from their dealer. The guy was pretty understanding and said they couldn't match online prices but said they may be able to knock of ~$20 from the list price. That was more than I expected but not enough to keep me from ordering the Beck Arnley part from amazon for $56.58 (free shipping!). I thanked him and hung up. Like Howie and I stated earlier it seems that these sensors fail in pairs eventually so $220 vs $114 means I'll be ordering them from Amazon.
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