RedRider3141

Thanks! Yeah, it sounds like a relatively common issue. And most posts mentioned both eventually failing.

EDIT: for the solution to my problem and the short story see page 2 of this thread after reading the Post #1, Post #7 and Post #18. Or read the entire thing, it isn't that long and has some good info. I may be reinventing the wheel here but I wanted to document my experiences with the P1145 and P1140 Codes. Today my Pathy through a SES at me. I've owned it for about a year and this is the first time that is done that. Luckily I "invested" in a cheapy code reader from Harbor Freight a few years back for my sisters car that has continuous issues. Between my cars, sibling's cars and friend's cars that thing has paid for itself over and over again. Anyways, back to the story. When I scanned I got P1145 only. I did some Googling and came across a few posts over on Nico Club and a few Yahoo Answer type posts that lead me to look into the oil level or cam sensors. Apparently, oil level is a favorite answer of Nissan mechanics. Several posts from "Nissan Master Techs" suggested that the oil either be changed or topped off to clear the code. The way I read it the code can be caused by the cam position solenoid not having enough oil pressure to work properly. So the error isn't necessarily "Low Oil" or "Low Oil Pressure" its a failure with cam position solenoid or sensor. To test first check your oil. Mine was changed about 4-500 miles ago and was still fresh and full (yes I double checked it to make sure). After I eliminated that I started to remove the sensors and check them based on the specs in the manual. I really didn't find anything exceptional with the drivers side sensor which supposedly was the issue. According the manual as long as the measured resistance between each of the pins is ANYTHING "Except 0 or (infinity)" the sensor is ok. I decided to pull the other sensor and check it too. It had a few pin-outs that resulted in 0 ohms. I decided to follow the advice of the Nico Club posts and swap the sensors when I put them back in. If the P1145 code returned then the next place to look was the solenoid. If the P1140 code turned on then the problem moved with the sensor. I cleared the codes and took it for a test drive to the store and back. The SES light will not light for an P1145 or P1140 the FIRST time it has an error. The computer will log it and if it sees it AGAIN it will turn the SES light on. This is exactly what happened to me. The light was off on the way to the store but came on when I restarted and came home. I checked and it was the P1140 code. Success! I didn't fix it but I isolated the issue to the sensor itself. I did some online looking and it seems Amazon has some pretty good prices on then sensor but I'm still going to call the dealer to find out how much they want. Also, this blog would have saved me 5-10 minutes of staring at my engine. It's a handy reference before you tackle the (easy) job of swapping the sensors. http://www.jensbits....1145-and-p1140/

Yes that's the part. $11 from a dealer, that ain't too bad.

I've been helping my buddy with his '87 Pathfinder and we where diagnosing a weak alternator when we found that 1) the Alternator Belt is stretched to the limit of the tensioner and 2) the tensioner bolt is snapped. The Bolt that holds the alternator in place it OK just the little bolt that helps you crank it into position. Short of using an extractor to pull out the bolt is there some where I can buy just the little square block that holds/ adjusts the alternator belt tension?

That seems like an odd one to burn out since I would assume it is rarely used. Has anyone heard of the switch in the transfer case going bad?

I have an '01 R50 with a manual transfer case (auto tranny). I have an indicator light for 4x4 High (just 4x4) but when I shift into 4x4 Low the dash doesn't light up an additional indicator like all of my previous Fords have. Did Nissan skimp on this or is my bulb just burned out?

I'm 99% sure it isn't the same as the O/D button on R50s. The O/D button prevents the tranny from using 4th gear (overdrive). This mod controls the torque converter lock up solenoid. However it works backwards from what I thought. I want to force the converter to stay locked up when in 3rd or 4th. Like this guy: http://7.barracks.cl/car/manual-torque-converter-override-for-ef-falcon.html I may start just by adding the indicator light for reference.

I was reading through old posts and I saw this: http://npora.ipbhost...ndpost&p=591360 I couldn't find the thread though (I've actually never had much luck with NPORA Searches). Anyone have a link?

Last night did an oil change and removed Medusa, I mean the airbox resonator. (Picture of Donald's Medusa from Nico Club)

Made up for it (kinda) by going to Costco to get 6 qts of Mobil 1 Synthetic for $27.

Detailed the interior Removed Blower Motor, Dismantled blower motor, cleaned blower motor, cleaned blower motor housing and cooler housing, replaced In Cabin Air filter, reassembled, enjoyed fresh (quieter air). Replaced Shifter Light, noticed 3 other bulbs that are burnt out... Removed Digital Dash clock and added Cell Phone Mount in it's place, SANO! Hardwired Motorola T505 Bluetooth unit to back of Kenwood HU. Avoided doing an Oil Change...

If it's not too much trouble that would be great, thanks!

Not to resurrect and old thread or anything but all positive comments aside I think Geoff57 had some valid points about adding the cross brace. In an accident the engine/ tranny is designed to do exactly as he described. Anyone have any input on this?

When I purchased my Pathfinder (1 year ago last month) the A/C was dead, no cold air whatsoever. I had it recharged just like I did my Explorer this past summer. This lasted 5+ years in my 'Splorer but didn't last 6 months in the Pathfinder. I did notice that the low pressure hose that leads from the Passenger side "Cooling Unit" behind the firewall accross the front of the engine to the compressor had some oil soaked dirt and grime. Far more than any other part of the engine which was steam cleaned when I bought it a year ago (I admit, I got it from a dealer). I wiped it clean a few weeks ago when I was working on my Serp Belt squeal (Still Fixed, thanks everyone). However it is dirty again, today. I was wondering if this is a common place for the system to leak and it a garage mechanic such as myself could replace the seals/ part and have a shop recharge it again? I'm comfortable around tools, cars and bikes but I've never messed with A/C systems before.

So far this seems to be the solution. This morning was wet and damp and no sqeal after tightening it last night. And again after work no squeal. (When it would normally squeal almost as bad as the morning). I'll post if it comes back and start elimination any other causes.

The squeal will go on for 2-3 minutes if I let it... I live in the Pacific NorthWET and mornings here are often soggy, even when it isn't raining. I have noticed it to be significantly worse on wet mornings then cool dry ones. I did check for coolant and my radiator is holding a constant level over the last few months so there is no reason to suspect it is leaking. However there is an A/C line that passes from the Passenger Firewall around the front of the engine over the belt and then down to the A/C compressor that has a film of dirt and a little oil. Its not dripping or anything but it definitely looks like that line is leaking and slowly oozing down hill. I had the A/C recharged this summer because it was 100% dead when I got the car a year ago. It was strong all summer but I haven't really been able to test it since it's been a pretty steady 40F here since fall. But that's a whole different issue.... I just rechecked the tension after I made my first post and the belt has definitely lost some tension since I last re-tensioned it. This would match with the fact that the last time I re-tensioned it the problem improved/almost went away but eventually came back. I gave it a couple of turns and felt the tension again and it felt better but with out a gauge to measure 22lbs I'm really guessing. I'll watch it this week and see if it improved. Also I haven't touched the A/C belt since I installed it, from what I can tell it doesn't seem to squeal like the main belt.

I'm having an issue with my Pathfinders accessory belts, I replaced them with some Gates belts about 9-10 months ago and they started to squeal real bad at start-up this fall. I've gone back in and tightened them again and it improved but seemed to get worse again. Anybody have any tips on how to make sure the belts are tight enough without making them to tight? The manual says 3-5mm of deflection under 22lbs; how have you guys been measuring this? I'm tired and I'm sure my neighbors are tired of hearing my belt at 6 in the morning. Gripe: NISSAN WHY DIDN'T YOU PUT ON AUTO TENSIONERS!

Yeah, I've heard... Any reason to not bite the bullet and do it? It looks like I'm in the "Incident A" column and I need a new TCM and Solenoid Assembly Control. The problem always goes away after the car warms up, am I causing harm the rest of the tranny?

... Except that it confirmed I may need new parts for my pathy to fix my A/T flare...

Better than I expected! Thanks!!!!

So I've been diagnosing a few issues on my '01 Pathy and have found evidence that the problems may be related to a Service Bulletin out there but I can't seem to find a complete list with fully readable service bulletins. Isn't this something that should be made public by Nissan? Is there a thread with a link to these or do I just have to go to a dealer and ask them? The one issue that I'm mostly going after is a shift flare (1-2 and 2-3) on cold start. It's more annoying than anything but I wanted to make sure its not causing harm until I get it fixed.

I'd question why they are "Carbon Fiber"? I totally expected the item location to be some off shore place selling loads of junk car paraphernalia.

Yeah, I'm pretty stoked about how it turned out. The front end was just missing something on the SE. I always liked the LE grille better and I though the open section in the lower part of the bumper was way to wide open and exposed. Next project is find a replacement skid plate and figure out something to do with that bad bumper paint.

You caught me, the plate is 'shopped.

EDIT: Added New pics without license plate and with lower section completed. I ended up with some nice SS mesh so I decided to cut it up and spruce up my grille and protect my cooling module from rock damage. I need to get some photos up of the bottom section too but you get the idea. I cut a pattern using cardboard and then transferred it to the mesh. I added about 12-40mm of extra mesh around the edge to fold it back over itself to help hold the raw edge from cutting. I then unscrewed the tree supports for the front grille and sandwiched the mesh between the OEM grille and the supports.