RedRider3141

So the first thing I did on my 'Splorer after changing things like belts and plugs etc was diagnose and fix a bad 4 wheel drive system. The early Explorers were real basic 4x4 systems: tranny mounted transfer case operated by either a shift lever or dash operated electric shift motor. The transfer case would drive the real wheels at all times and would turn the front drive shaft only when 4x4 was engaged. This meant that the front axle/ diff was turning too. Then the front hubs had either manual or auto hubs. If you did any regular 4x4 driving you probally had broken the auto hubs and replaced them with a set of warns. later Explorers had more complicated 4x4 systems and AWD systems with front axle disconnects or something like that. So how do the R50s work? My truck has a manual shift transfer case but other than that I'm not sure how the power is sent to the front wheels.

Fixed my rear tailgate lock Mechanism: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29294&st=0&gopid=556876entry556876

Ok, Fixed it. It was a little messed up. 1) Remove 10mm bolts that hold on hatch handle/ grip. Oh that's weired, one is a 10mm and one is a 11/32... 2) OK now remove hatch cover without breaking too many plastic clips. 3 broke, not bad. 3) Find motor/ lock actuator. 4) Found it, take voltage readings at pins while locking/ unlocking doors with remote. More weirdness, 0VDC at all of the pins. How bad is this fix going to be? 5) Smack head and realize you've been checking voltage on the rear window wiper harness. Remember to not troubleshoot in the dark. 6)Ok, found the actuator int he passenger side of the door. (really I did) What?! there is absolutely nothing connecting it to the door lock?!!!?! 7)Test lock, 12VDC on one pin when I hit lock and 12VDC on the other pin when I hit lock! Bingo. Wiring appears to be good, motor does not... 8) Remove motor and bench test... No change. 9) Disassemble... It looks like there is a fairly simple mechanism that moves an arm back and forth while sending feedback to the harness as to what position it is in. Mine was so full of yellow grease that it looked like the contacts where all covered up and the sweeping arm/ brass contacts wasn't enough to clear them. No corrosion, maybe some arching but mostly grease. I cleaned the contacts, put it back together and tuh-duh: Working Lock Actuator. 10) But actuator back into hatch and ponder on something to connect the actuator to the door lock mechanism... 11) BINGO! A Model Rock Launch Pad Wire/ Guide. A few quick bends and I was in Business! (Can you tell I'm excited) 12) Put everything back together (including replacing the 11/32" bolt with a 10mm one) 13) Enjoy my now functional rear hatch lock (while it lasts) I'm gathering at some point the lock stopped working or the arm linkage fell off and the PO's response (or worse the dealers) was to just remove the link and use the Key to lock/unlock the hatch. Really? Even my '93 Ford had electric tailgate locks. Any ways we'll see how long my fix lasts. At worst I know exactly what to replace if it does go bad.

There must still be some electrical connection because it still does the "unlock all doors" from the tail gate with the key. I'll check into the solenoid. Maybe it is jammed or loose or something.

I can't figure out how to lock/ unlock my rear tail gate without using the key. Do I have a bad lock Solenoid or is that the Pathfinder way? The Drivers/ passenger switch lock/ unlock all 4 doors but not the hatch. Same with the wireless Key fob.

Today I readjusted my Fan Drive belt because it squealed like crazy last night when cold! I guess I didn't get it quite tight enough yesterday.

1) New Wiper Blades 2) New Light Bulbs for the OEM Fogs 3) New A/C Belt 4) New P/S, Fan Etc Belt. 5) Filled all the nooks and crannies with my junk from my old car. (Emergency Supplies, Tools, Gloves Etc) 6) Flipped my 2" Drop Hitch from my old car to fit the Pathfinder. The Belts weren't too bad. Anybody that can turn a wrench can do it, overall I think it was a 20 minute job (not including looking it up online). What did you do to your Pathfinder today?

Never mind I fixed it: http://npora.ipbhost...showtopic=29248

First off I have to admit I can't take credit for figuring this out, I got the idea here: Nissan Forums from TuffguyF4i. So here's to you TuffguyF4i It was just as easy as he said. I took out the clock and removed the back cover to expose the circuit board. It took a bit to recognize the crack in the Solder but a quick check with a continuity meter confirmed I had found a break. Lucky for me there was only one. I heated up my soldering iron added a bit of fresh solder and put it all back together and BINGO! Dash Clock. Here is the Board: I found my R6 was cracked, photo didn't turn out great, but it wasn't much of a crack to begin with.

Any updates Light Path? I have the same issue and I was thinking that the joker who installed the aftermarket stereo might have pulled out a wire or something.

I just noticed that Canister on my '01, is it a California Emissions thing or do all R50s have it? In other words, why can't I just remove it? Thanks for the info BTW, I'm saving this if I ever need to change mine out.