RedRider3141

Ok, that answers one question, but "raises" another. My fender Antennae is fixed! You guys with the retracting antennas, is that QX4 only?

Took my car on a road trip last weekend and my passengers noticed a "brake" smell from my right rear wheel. I haven't taken any long trips but I have noticed the smell come back but only faintly. The first time I noticed it you could smell it if you were with in two feet of the rear wheel. But on shorter trips I have to stick my nose in the wheel well. None of the other wheels smell. I thought it might be the parking break so I added some slack to it but it hasn't seemed to change Anything. Any other ideas?

The extremely helpful seller told me that the line in my windshield is an antennae. But it has a fender mounted antennae, so what's the deal with the line?

Took the Pathfinder and my bike for a ride:

Thanks! I checked into the Mile Markers and they only list 90'-96' Pathfinders (6 bolt 28 spline) P/N 435. Is this what you have? My goal would be to maximize MPGs to save $ so blowing $200 (160ish on Amazon BTW) on hubs would only make sense if I could recoup that in a few years. When I swapped the trashy autos on my Explorer I went with the basic Warns and they were great but I only used them a handful of times for light 4x4 work (snow, gravel roads, etc) they were 100% solid but I'm sure I didn't use them to their potential. My use on the Pathfinder will be the same.

Thanks guys, I started doing some research on hubs here and I learned quite a bit more. From what I can tell I'd have no problem switching to manual hubs since I have the manual T-Case.

So the first thing I did on my 'Splorer after changing things like belts and plugs etc was diagnose and fix a bad 4 wheel drive system. The early Explorers were real basic 4x4 systems: tranny mounted transfer case operated by either a shift lever or dash operated electric shift motor. The transfer case would drive the real wheels at all times and would turn the front drive shaft only when 4x4 was engaged. This meant that the front axle/ diff was turning too. Then the front hubs had either manual or auto hubs. If you did any regular 4x4 driving you probally had broken the auto hubs and replaced them with a set of warns. later Explorers had more complicated 4x4 systems and AWD systems with front axle disconnects or something like that. So how do the R50s work? My truck has a manual shift transfer case but other than that I'm not sure how the power is sent to the front wheels.

Fixed my rear tailgate lock Mechanism: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29294&st=0&gopid=556876entry556876

Ok, Fixed it. It was a little messed up. 1) Remove 10mm bolts that hold on hatch handle/ grip. Oh that's weired, one is a 10mm and one is a 11/32... 2) OK now remove hatch cover without breaking too many plastic clips. 3 broke, not bad. 3) Find motor/ lock actuator. 4) Found it, take voltage readings at pins while locking/ unlocking doors with remote. More weirdness, 0VDC at all of the pins. How bad is this fix going to be? 5) Smack head and realize you've been checking voltage on the rear window wiper harness. Remember to not troubleshoot in the dark. 6)Ok, found the actuator int he passenger side of the door. (really I did) What?! there is absolutely nothing connecting it to the door lock?!!!?! 7)Test lock, 12VDC on one pin when I hit lock and 12VDC on the other pin when I hit lock! Bingo. Wiring appears to be good, motor does not... 8) Remove motor and bench test... No change. 9) Disassemble... It looks like there is a fairly simple mechanism that moves an arm back and forth while sending feedback to the harness as to what position it is in. Mine was so full of yellow grease that it looked like the contacts where all covered up and the sweeping arm/ brass contacts wasn't enough to clear them. No corrosion, maybe some arching but mostly grease. I cleaned the contacts, put it back together and tuh-duh: Working Lock Actuator. 10) But actuator back into hatch and ponder on something to connect the actuator to the door lock mechanism... 11) BINGO! A Model Rock Launch Pad Wire/ Guide. A few quick bends and I was in Business! (Can you tell I'm excited) 12) Put everything back together (including replacing the 11/32" bolt with a 10mm one) 13) Enjoy my now functional rear hatch lock (while it lasts) I'm gathering at some point the lock stopped working or the arm linkage fell off and the PO's response (or worse the dealers) was to just remove the link and use the Key to lock/unlock the hatch. Really? Even my '93 Ford had electric tailgate locks. Any ways we'll see how long my fix lasts. At worst I know exactly what to replace if it does go bad.

There must still be some electrical connection because it still does the "unlock all doors" from the tail gate with the key. I'll check into the solenoid. Maybe it is jammed or loose or something.

I can't figure out how to lock/ unlock my rear tail gate without using the key. Do I have a bad lock Solenoid or is that the Pathfinder way? The Drivers/ passenger switch lock/ unlock all 4 doors but not the hatch. Same with the wireless Key fob.

I'm just outside of Seattle.

My cross bars are flaking a bit and one rail is flaking/rusting (apparently that part is steel). My plan is to remove the factory cross bars and swap my Yakima Rack over to the Pathfinder. When I do that I'm going to look at how much trouble it is to remove the rail and repaint it. I really don't want to create any leaks, it rains quite a bit here in the PNW.

The Badges and Paperwork say SE. If it has the LE rims this is the first I've known. What do the SE rims look like?

Here she is:

Today I readjusted my Fan Drive belt because it squealed like crazy last night when cold! I guess I didn't get it quite tight enough yesterday.

1) New Wiper Blades 2) New Light Bulbs for the OEM Fogs 3) New A/C Belt 4) New P/S, Fan Etc Belt. 5) Filled all the nooks and crannies with my junk from my old car. (Emergency Supplies, Tools, Gloves Etc) 6) Flipped my 2" Drop Hitch from my old car to fit the Pathfinder. The Belts weren't too bad. Anybody that can turn a wrench can do it, overall I think it was a 20 minute job (not including looking it up online). What did you do to your Pathfinder today?

Never mind I fixed it: http://npora.ipbhost...showtopic=29248

First off I have to admit I can't take credit for figuring this out, I got the idea here: Nissan Forums from TuffguyF4i. So here's to you TuffguyF4i It was just as easy as he said. I took out the clock and removed the back cover to expose the circuit board. It took a bit to recognize the crack in the Solder but a quick check with a continuity meter confirmed I had found a break. Lucky for me there was only one. I heated up my soldering iron added a bit of fresh solder and put it all back together and BINGO! Dash Clock. Here is the Board: I found my R6 was cracked, photo didn't turn out great, but it wasn't much of a crack to begin with.

Man you guys are ruthless about the pics! I'll get some up this weekend, It seems I'm only home when its dark out so I haven't taken any pics. Here is a teaser Explorer Pic, back from when I used to wash it: The A/C pump isn't even turning on right now so I'm guessing it is leaked out and shut down. I had the same thing on my Ex' so I had the shop refill and ad the dye but after 4 years it still blows cold so I never bothered to have them look for the leak. This one is pretty rust free, even the chain holding the spare looks good. I was pokin' my head around the rear end looking for trailer wiring and I decided to test the spare carrier, the spare rim is a little rusty but not too bad. I think the carfax said that it originally came from So. Cal.

Any updates Light Path? I have the same issue and I was thinking that the joker who installed the aftermarket stereo might have pulled out a wire or something.

I just noticed that Canister on my '01, is it a California Emissions thing or do all R50s have it? In other words, why can't I just remove it? Thanks for the info BTW, I'm saving this if I ever need to change mine out.

Thanks for the replies guys, I ended up getting the '01 checked out by a shop, took it on a 2-3 test drive and got the dealer to drop the price a bit and took it home last night! The Explorer has been great and surprisingly reliable. I've owned it for 8 years now and it has just rolled over 194K. By far the biggest repair/ expense has been suspension bushings and a new clutch. Not bad for an old Ford. That said I'm glad I just got an '01 Pathfinder and not an '01 Explorer. A few things on my list already: 1) Front Skid plate (stocker is MIA) 2) New Acc. Drive Belts 3) A/C refrigerant recharge 4) Fog Light Bulbs 5) Rear Tonneau Cover (again, MIA) I've already been searching a few posts on the drive belts, seems pretty easy to get to. Funny I think that was the very first thing I replace on my 'Splorer 8 years ago...

I'm looking to replace my trusty stead (1993 Explorer Sport) and the Pathfinder is at the top of my list right now as a new vehicle. I'm just doing my due diligence and checking it out. Right now I'm looking at 2001-2003 pathfinders, looking at a cherry '01 tomorrow, we'll see!