Nefarious

Yep. Going to be running the n60 maf as well as modified fuel and timing maps on the 92. About ca smog. You can still modify the tune to run the n60 maf while retaining the factory fuel and timing maps. This would allow for a higher over all power (with supporting mods of course) without changing your emissions values significantly. I feel for you guys down there...those are some strict emissions laws! The sad part is, it's the diesels and heavy machinery as well as production plants that are causing the majority of the pollution. This is what was found in Vancouver and they are now eliminating passenger vehicle emissions testing and moving the tests to commercial vehicles and heavy equipment, since passenger vehicles only account for a single digit percent of the overall emissions of the city. People finally realized it's just a cash grab!

Just pulled the ecu out of my new 92. It's getting socketted for a tune as well.

Wow! I think you have some more metal to fill.... ? there is more hole than there is floor. Scary!

I think even a 33 x 10.5 will fit with just a slight torsion level (they are usually sagged on an older truck) on stocklego wheels. ItIt's the width that will cause rubbing more than the height. If you want 32 x 11.5 then u may need a small lift. 33 x 12.5 definitely needs lift and some minor trimming. I run 33 x 12.5 now and there's no way it's fitting without lift. So i would suggest 31 or 33 x 10.5 if you don't want any lift I've never owned a stock height pathy though, so just going by what I've read! I'm personally trying to find a nice tall skinny tire for my next set but it's hard to find a good off road tire that will drive well on the street in a 35 x 10.5 ish size

It doesn't require a kit. You just find a place on the top of the intake plenum; central to the cylinder banks, and place the new knock sensor there. You then find the wire(s) (I can't remember if it's one or two wires) and splice on a new connector from nissan and you are good to go. There's a guide on youtube that a guy made for the r50 but it's the exact same method. another possibility is you could have possibly got bad gas, which was causing mild detonation. This would also have the possibility to set off the knock sensor code. Hopefully it stays gone!

It's not detrimental for the time being but you may notice a slight drop in performance and a slight increase in fuel consumption until you replace it. You can also relocate it and splice into the harness if you want to avoid pulling the plenum, BUT ideally you replace it of course.

Exactly! You detach the bottom section of the fan shroud with your fingers. It just kind of snaps apart. Then you remove the upper rad hose and it will slide right out!

Oh gotcha, sorry I've seen people make that mistake before. Not pretty

Do not use gl5 in the manual transmission! Nissan transmissions require gl4! ! Gl5 WILL destroy your trans

Yup, if you are getting 12v at the starter on crank then starter / solenoid is the issue. You got er!

Wd21 only have crappy turning radius with the long steering stops. Seriously one of the best mods for wheeling tight trails is to swap the short steering stops in from a 'small tire package' truck. It turns about as sharp as a car after! Just need to have wheel spacers or lower offset rims so the tires don't rub the frame.

Are the tires leaned out at the top like this \ / or leaned in at the top like this / \? If they are leaned out at the top, you have positive camber and need to remove alignment shims behind the front upper control arms. If they are leaned in at the top then you have negative camber and need to add shims behind the front upper control arms. I think I may make a write up on this topic when I tackle Kats truck, as this seems to be a popular subject.

I'm guessing you have the frame removed from the truck? Or are they able to sandblast and dip the trucksome how with it assembled?

Correct, that would be a second generation r 50. Got the updated 3.5 litre v6 with moh powah! Also updated front end body work and other various bits...

Okay well I'll take a look once this flu I'm fighting breaks and see what I can do. It would probably be a lot cheaper to ship without the shoes anyways. I am pretty sure I can help you out

what exactly do you need from the rear assembly? I have a parts truck with complete disc brake rear axle and functioning e brake. Might be able to help you out

you are correct on that one B. I don't see anything of that nature either. I'll look into it just out of my own curiosity. I would imagine if you have weak piston ring (s) and do not have perfect compression than blow by is something that must be taken more into account on an aging motor. Personally, both kat and I pathfinders have been vg33e swapped with perfect compression vg33e that are literally like new (actually a little better at 180 psi exactly across all 6 cylinders) and we are also running catch cans to avoid Pcv recirculation of oil so I don't think this would be much of an issue for us BUT the acidity is something unavoidable. I think I may contact the company and see what their answer is for that one. Thanks for bringing that up and I'll update here if I find anything. I'm curious more than anything!

The things you learn in automation / instrumentation school

oh yeah well the po of my truck put on a 19 inch blade onthe rear window. Lol

That's because a thicker viscosity of oil will provide higher pressures through the pump at the expense of a lesser ability to flow, especially colder temperatures.

But black is metal! \\m// ?

For a 1-1.5 " lift though, it's not worth (in my opinion) spending money on aftermarket control arms. You will be fine with stock. The control arm swap itself is very very easy. But if you want to keep stock control arms and just replace bushings it's much more work but also costs much less money. Trade off for sure. if you are serious about 1.5 " then I would personally do this for the budget minded. Crank torsion bars to desired height. Replace upper control arm bushings, install fleurys rear coil spacers for either 1" or 2" rear lift depending on the stance you want. If you want 2" rear you probably want to get longer rear shocks to accommodate the extra travel, if 1" is all you want in rear, I wouldn't worry about rear shocks. this 1.5 front / 1 rear lift will cost about 110$ in parts. if you want 1.5 front / 2 rear it will cost about 200$ including new rear shocks.

You don't need longer shocks in the front for your torsion lift. if you go close to 2" higher in the rear then you may want longer rear shocks. If you replace the front upper control arms with aftermarket ones, then you don't need to do the control arm bushings as the aftermarket arms come with new bushings. If you want to keep stock control arms then it's kind of a pain to replace the bushings but not too bad. personally, if you actually only want 1-1.5" of lift, then I wouldn't worry about buying aftermarket control arms. If you go 2" or higher than its probably for the best if you do get them; but, I personally wouldn't use the AC control arms as they do not correct ball joint angles anyway. The superlift arms (also on AC website) are a much better choice if you plan to go that route. They are slightly longer (to account for camber) and angled to sit ball joints level.

String method works as long as you aren't lifted. Once that Panhard is at an angle your rear axle will be shifted sideways and the string method won't work (unless you have a Panhard drop of course) . If you are stock height it's really easy. Just wrap some strong twine around your rear Panhard. Run it around the vehicle through the center line of your rear and front wheels on one side. Then you can pull the string tight and place it against the front wheel while sitting down and looking straight down the line. Adjust tie rods until the string sits flush against the faces of the front and rear tire bulges and you will get it real close anyways. Then just do the same for the other side and then re check both sides. U will need someone to sit in the drivers seat and hold the steering wheel in the center position as well.

Have you tested to see that you get 12v at the starter when the vehicle is put to START? if you aren't getting any voltage at the starter then you have a problem further up the line. Always best to run the free tests before throwing parts at something, me thinks.