Iceman2989

<-- Used to be south of you in Kelso. Moved out to Idaho for college now. Not many of us out in Idaho ~

They are different than the WJ coil, and I hope to make them work for the rear. Still waiting on UPS and Fedex to bring me my new struts and mounts before I tackle the front. I'm going to weld a piece of pipe to the perch that has the same diameter as the inside of the pig tail.

Adding to the "to do list" gets pretty addicting here on NPORA... Take a look around and feel free to ask any questions that you cant find or clarify with your searches!

Picked up some coils off craigslist for the rear for $25, and started playing with it to see what all I'll need. Here are some pics of the rear setup I plan on using. This is the lower perch where the bottom of the coil spring will sit. I plan on welding a small piece of pipe to the center of this, and having my coil spring fit snugly around it. This is the top perch, where the top of the coil spring sits. It is just under 4" in diameter. This is the stock coil spring, with a rubber seat that fills the gap between the coil spring and the upper perch. The rubber is there to help eliminate noise, and make sure the coil is seated properly. This is a close-up of that rubber spacer. Without the rubber spacer there, the coil diameter is a hair over 5" in diameter. Here are the coil springs that I got in comparison with the stock coils. Much taller, with a slightly higher spring rate. These are off a 93 Jeep Cherokee. The new coil springs have a diameter of just over 4" and will fit perfectly over the upper perch.

I want these! Maybe I can make some in my machining class on campus.

Installed an OOOOOOGA Horn. SUPER annoying, but pretty darn fun, and now those that know me and are expecting me can tell when I roll up.

Yup, thats my old roommate. His username here on NPORA was Methfinder.

Hey mine either... Could sure be a fuse, just haven't looked hard enough I guess.

Okay, so I did a quick double take of the prices of everything, and I wanted to save more. Instead of the 8078 coils, I am going to go with 77 f150 front coils. Theyve got a free height that I think will work, in addition to a higher spring rate than the pathfinder, plus they are much more available. I couldnt find any fairlanes at my nearby junkyards, so after asking around and finding the f150 coils at several different places, it seems like they may be a better option. Plus, after shipping, the fairlane coils are close to $100, and more than I wanted to spend on the coils. At $30 a piece for both the f150 coils and the WJ coils at my local junkyard, I'm just going to go ahead and use those. For reference, Part #CC814 and CC816 are what I'm talking about. Free height of 17.5 and 18.25, spring rates of 271lbs, and an outer diameter that matches up with the stock pathy coils at the top. For the bottom, I'm going to sleeve them.

Heeeeeeeeere's your sign!

Those pictures are before getting my new tires/wheels. My tires poke out a good 2 inches now on each side, and make sure that the sides of my pathfinder get extra dirty whenever I find a puddle or mud. I'm not worried about scratches, but if you were, and plan on getting a wider stance from different offset tires/wheels, then you may wish to keep them on.

I had a local guy fab some up for me. I didnt plan on ever taking mine off, so I had him weld them straight to the unibody. I've lifted the vehicle by them several times, very sturdy, and have saved me quite a bit of trouble. Sprayed em with a coat of undercoating to leave a nice durable surface. Here are a couple pics for reference.

Bingo. More than the tire size, what will make them hit or miss the strut is the backspacing of the wheel. Lower backspacing means the tire is pushed further away from the body of the vehicle. Of course a taller tire is more likely to rub, but you can fit a taller tire and NOT have rubbing as long as the backspacing pushes the tire out enough to clear everything. As far as what the stock back spacing is on your 17s, I have no idea. Regardless of backspacing, however, if the tire diameter does not exceed what anyone else has done on stock wheels with the OME lift, you should clear the strut just fine. Does that make sense? If the overall diameter is the same as someone on 31x10.5R15s wether its metric or standard or whatever you decide, you'll clear it just as well as they did with the 31" diameter tires. I have 265/70/R16 on my stock suspension and clear the strut just fine.

I had played around with the idea for a while, made at thread on it actually. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34760-short-shifter/?hl=%2Bshort+%2Bshifter

Me. Had a local guy say he could fab one up for around $75. What are your plans?

or survival of the fittest!

I'm excited for this.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35436-r50-oem-hid-projector-headlights-with-side-lights/

Its a beaut! I'm assuming you've SFD'd it right? Thats a good job with the trading! Well done!

Sounds like you've got a good vision for your vehicle. Now that you know what direction you want to take it in, the fun begins!

Used rust encapsulator on front and rear tube bumpers, as well as both rock sliders. They had been getting a little rusty, so that helped a ton. After it had dried several hours later, I sprayed undercoating on all of them as a protective coating. Looks great, and after that dries It should be preserved for a decently long time!

There was already an aftermarket deck when I bought my pathfinder. My treble was fine stock, but the bass was starting to buzz from the stock 16yr old paper cones in the speakers, so I just upgraded the bass by putting a sub in the rear. 15" Memphis sub on clearance from a local auto store, ported box off ebay, and an alpine amp off craigslist. $110 for the whole setup, and now it sounds the way I like it, and I can make my neighborhood hear it the way I like it too if I crank it.

Painted some rust converter on some light rust spots to see if it works. Started with my front bumper.

Congrats! Beautiful Rig.