PaMountianbiker

Ok so here it is. My problems started when I was driving home one day stopped at a store came back out wouldn't start ??? finally after a couple tries it started; drove home got mail coming up to the driveway she stalled ??? Would not start. So I pushed it into the garage with fourwheeler still wouldn't start. Left it alone for a while (hour) came back out started up ran fine ??? Went to the store again it died on the road so I called buddy to come rescue me on the road with my trailer ; he shows up about half hour later and it started right up ??? So I drove onto the trailer and brought it home. I took it to my buddies garage to scan it NO CODES So we assume it's the distributer ??? I brought it back home and changed all the parts in the distributer (have a broke spare motor)No change starts up runs a little bit ; til warm then shuts down and won't start. til it cools all the way down (never typed this much in my life ) SOOOOO I took it to the Nissan dealer they looked at it tried to scan NO CODES again ???? They said it looked like my MAF was messed up so I replaced that; no change ??? I didn't think that would work but I figured what the hell . So me and a buddy decided to change the crank position censor because it doesn't seem to be getting spark when it won't start. Now it won't start at all. I've givin up and don't know what to do next. Any suggestion would be appreciated. I ready to blow it up and start over with something old with no effing computer!!!!!

Wisdom of Chains

If your gonna wheel it you can expect to get some trail damage kind of look at them like scars chicks dig it.!!!!

grab them and try to wiggle them. you'll know it they are bad.

I've been running bootless because I knew I was going to swap in a new axle so I just didn't care.

That is the parts I'm saying to beef up!!! They are easy to change . there is a metal washer on the rack side that is bent over the nut.. I know there is a tool just for this job but I just always use a pipe wrench seems to work fine. Bad part is that you have to remove skid plate just to see the rack side. an example of my modified on and some bent stock ones

No I never did do stabilizer. we do lots of rocks on tight trails an d I kept on bending tierods . easy to fix on trail but still a pain in the a$$. I still always carry spares.

I would suggest beefing up the tierods too. I just took some pipe and sleeved mine and they have been holding up so far.

rotate your tires and see if it helps ???

^ Love Love Love this

Ha Ha Ha Ha you said Wheeled

Thanks bud I feel like I've been fighting a losing battle.

I already broke my manual hubs and I've committed to SAS My front end currently needs bearings; one cv; the hubs replaced and I won't spend any money on it because of doing Sas soon . I will be locked afterwards it's just hard to spend over$1000 on a ARB for Independant suspension .

I'm sure I will regret doing Sas in the end and wish I would've spent my money on a Jeep but I like being the only Nissan in my group of Jeeps. Everybody can wheel a Jeep but only a few can wheel a Pathfinder!!!!

I break my junk all the time.. so much that nobody will even go wheelin with me unless I trailer my Pathy so I have a way home. It's always front end parts. Solid axles just perform better offroad.IMO If I could get the front to perform like the back this CaR50 would be awsome!!!!

I don't think they still have 5.5's only 6.5's you can do like Rick and trim til your happy just a little at a time.

I even forgot to add in a lift and long arm upgrades $$$$

How much do you think trail rigs cost ??? Solid axle conversions are very common. as soon as you add Axle upgrades(almost all Jeep do this )$$$$$$ Lockers= $500-$1000 35-40" tires= $1200-$3000 Exoskeleton or a cage ? =?$1000's Sliders and skids=?$500- $1000 winch=$400-$1500 air source=$500 tow straps tree savers d rings=$$$ Bumpers =??? Trailer =$1000-$4000 I guess everyone is different and if you have a dedicated trail rig and all you ride with are Jeeps you want a capable rig. Some people have 500 horsepower and go the speed limit all the time and some want to open that bitch up and don't care if they get a ticket!!!!

I had this happen with the old front diff. Before I changed to 4.6 gears. I think that the shaft inside the diff was bent or twisted but never tore it down to check. I just swapped the whole thing and never had a problem again.It didn't have anything to do with SFD. That is when I swapped diffs when I put SFD on ???

I think the new kits come with a spacer for the rear so you can use your springs. Timmons will know I think that is what he used?? My springs are 5.5" lift wj springs and Rick's are 6.5" They didn't have the spacer for us so we just ran comparable springs both of us had to cut a little off to get the right height.

Are your cv's in good shape? is your lift 4+2 ? Mine never did that . Did you get it lined up afterwards ?

Where is the crankshaft position sensor located ?

How dare you bash a company that wants to make something for a R50 ???? Look around and parts are expensive and this is a tested kit that uses factory holes for the crossmember. Already figured out . It really isn't 5 grand either. I challenge you to make something like this on your own and come up cheaper!!! With comparible links and parts.

That is what I ordered (rock auto hitachi one) and a friggin marker light since I haven't had one for 6 months

^ such a hater !!!!!