Abbypathy

Hate to answer my own question. I think it appropriate here. So in my research replacing the original semi pressed in piston wrist pins with a set of pistons with fully floating pins will be fine. There is no engine perimeters in the VG33E that would forbid this. Its a engineering and performance issue more than anything else. My understanding is pressed in pins do have an advantage and also some draw backs compared to floating pins. And vice versa. Way to technical for me to discuss any farther. Never the less after market pistons will be floating more often than not. Probably due to ease of installation like you said Slartibartfast. So I see at this point no need to worry about the new pistons being the floating type. The retention clips seem to be solid, and that's important. I may put in new small end bushing to close up the gap there.

Its a very bewildering specs to grasp. Its not configured as a normal press in pin. And the oem clearances clearly are not fully floating and just barely would be considered a press in clearance. I thought press in wrist pins are pressed into the connecting rod (small end)all the time. In my engine its showing 0.0002 and 0.0009 clearance on C.R. to pin clearance and 0.0000-0.0002 on piston to wrist pin. In other words, wrist pins are pressed into pistons as opposed to being pressed in the connecting rod. I can only think of asking every possible engine builder I can find for advice

Does anyone have experience with rebuilding a VG33E and buying a new piston, pin set with a different wrist pin to piston pin hole clearance? Nissan's specifications call for a clearance of between 0" to 0.0002" for piston pin to piston fit. I bought a set that has a clearance of 0.0008". So its quite a difference but that's new piston manufactures specs. Nissan is almost calling for a press in pin. All I can find are floating wrist pins. The piston pin to connecting rod bushing(small end) is within Nissan's specs. So will this new engine geometry be a issue? All the lubricating holes on both the old Nissan pistons match with the new ITM pistons. Except agian the wrist pin hole diameter in the piston.

I totally agree. All the bolts for the rear axle are in that range. I went with 110 lbs-ft where the front axle side brackets bolt to the sub frame through rubber bushings.. Thanks for the help

Thanks Hawairish. I agree with your reasoning. Kind of had the same train of thought. It just seems awfully high for the back ones 125 ft-lbs.

Hey everyone. Would anyone happen to know what the torque requirement is for the bolts that hold the sub frame on to the frame for 97 Pathfinder. Its atleast 50 lbs-ft. Suspect its higher though. Kind of really needing the answer. The Nissan OEM repair manual doesn't specify what it is. Thanks.

Don't mean to be negative. I would be very suspicious and walk away.

I think XPLORx4 is right. In reality it isn't any different than doing a 2" lift using something like stiffer springs on the strut or 2" spacers. Not a bad idea to bring extra axles though. My pathy is fully loaded with tools, parts, shelter, food and anything else I can think of just in case.

I found 6" for strut to be max'd out. Its was a bit of wiggling to put it back together

I have manual lockers for the axle. And its strictly used on weekends and off road. Maybe 5,000 kms a year. No sign of wear yet. The angle isn't excessive, how ever more wear and tear will result. Guarantee that My sub frame spacers are 4 1/2" and strut spacers are 6". I wanted max possible clearance in the center of the axle. That's why the configuration is such. So CV angle is greater than normal. However got a nice clearance in the center and with the manual hubs and low mileage excessive CV Joint wear is manageable.

I am into the SFD for about $1400.00 . I don't know if a solid axle swap is possible with that amount.

Wondering if anyone else besides me has done a 6" SFD on the 97 Pathfinder. If so have you had problems with cracks in the frame where the rear bolts for sub frame bolt into the frame. I suspect the problem is putting in a 6" spacer between the frame and sub frame is to unstable. I am adding a lateral cross member that will join the spacers as one. Thus the spacers will not be able to twist in a lateral motion. I would think a 4" SFD is the max. you would want without adding a lateral cross member. Keep in mind on my pathfinder this created an extremely dangerous condition in which I figure within a short period of time I would have lost control completely while driving. In fact for the longest time I thought the bearing was loose on the passenger side front tire. I was getting a vibration at highway speed just like if you had a tire out of balance. Upon further inspection I found some serious cracks in both the sub frame and frame. So really want to warn you all of this issue.

I just put a fuel filter in the vacum line for the EVAP system. Just after this I noticed some back liquid coming from the end running from the valve that keeps jamming up. So clearly the vacum line needs to be cleaned otherwise the valve is just going to keep jamming up. Can't say whether this will finally stop the DTC from showing. Thinking I am close to solving it.

That pathy rocks. I freaking luv it. Luv it. Luv it. Totally looks like it means business.

Interesting idea. I like it. Going to do the same. While I have no proof charcoal is getting out of the cannister. It could be such a small unnoticable amount but just enought to jam the purge volume control valve. It does always fail in the open position.

Well I pressure tested and vacum tested the EVAP system. Found out the EVAP vent control valve on the EVAP Canister is leaking, replaced all vacum lines in the system. Next step is to isolate the fuel tank and test it for any leaks. No sign of charcoal though any where in the lines. I still cant find a cause for the purge volume control valve to fail one after another. Anyone heard of this problem? Or have any more ideas? My pathy is of the road because of it now for 3 months. Starting to go into 4x4 ing withdrawals.

I checked the lines a while back for signs of charcoal. It was by no means a thorough one. I have kind of suspected the charcoal cannister as questionable condition. Years ago I drove it in a river (I thought it was fun, passenger didn't though ) . It was flooded up to the top of the dash board. Almost garantee the EVAP Cannister filled with water but never took it off and inspected it. Thanks for the idea. Cheers

I have had it. I have gone through a total of 4 EVAP Cannister Purge Volume Control Valve. These have all been used parts from the auto worker. Some failed right away and others failed a month later. Which then causes the MIL light to go on. Code reader shows DTC P1445. When I first install the valve it works perfect. I can cycle the ignition switch from the OFF to RUN and I can hear the valve operating. When I go to run I can hear the valve close and when I turn it off I can hear it open. But soon after doing this maybe 10 times or maybe 20 times it stops working. It gets stuck in the partial open position. I can take the valve apart push the valve open all the way and then it will work for again 10 or 20 times. I am totally stumped. What are the chances of having 4 known to be working valves fail on me soon after installing. Is there something else I should be looking at? Maybe some hidden issue with the ECM? Does anyone have any ideas? Really could use one or two! Thanks

I just went to a hardware story and got some heavy duty grade poly. The stuff that is used for home construction. aka vapour barrier. As far as what it does. I am guessing it protects the upolstery from getting wet from the inside of your door. Not an expert just thinking out loud. I dumped my pathfinder in about 5 feet of dirty Fraser River about two years ago. Plastic didnt do a thing then. So.....apparently its not totally waterproof. Trust me on this.

I am getting more and more into finding those trails that no one else takes. Miles away from any one else. No cellular reception. You know the rest. My point is before you head out into the great out doors just stop for a moment and ask what would you do if something happened. It could be a mechanical break down, or you could break a leg or who knows what else. What would you do? I carry with me lots of tools, recovery straps, come-a-longs. For personal safety I have sleeping bags, tarps, extra clothes. I also just bought a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB). This is my "worse case" help. It works with satelites. So the idea is once activated it beams a signal to a satelite (not private) a government one. Which then automatically get sent to SAR Headquarters in Toronto with my GPS coordinates. Based on my location it then gets sent to my local SAR coordination center (for me it is Comox BC. Canadian Forces SAR), They then start the logistic of helping me. Contacting RCMP my local civil SAR and what ever else is needed. Depending on many things. Help could on the road within a half an hour of me pushing the button. I paid 250.00 CAD but there is no subscription. Battery apparently last about 5 yrs. Its the same idea as a aircraft ELT. Except you have to push the button. In addition I also carry a scanner, GPS, First AId, hunting knife, matches. I would hate to know of any of you all really not being prepared and having a bad situation turn worse. So just think about it. How prepared are you when it happens?

This is a great example of how useful this forum and website is. I had the same problem. My window was so slow. I suffered with it for a long time in fear of having to rip the whole door apart to fix it and maybe spend another hundred to fix it. Blah... Blah... Blah... Had a left over can of silicone in the basement that I used previously some where else. Put the window down all the way. Sprayed it in the tracks. And it worked. Thanks to person that shared the secret. Silicone. Ya... Baby!!!!!!! Cheers